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A
"
visited my home to provide a quote for adding insulation in my attic (it is quite lacking at the moment), and doing a radiant
" . He was very polite and professional. He was running a bit behind (about 20 mins), but he did call me to let me know, so it was no big deal (it was a rainy day and traffic was moving slower than normal so I wasn't surprised). He explained quite a bit to me about the products they use, how the process works, what my options were, etc. He took his time throughout the appointment, and was not pushy and did not try to use any 'high pressure' sales tactics. He was straightforward and provided me a verbal estimate on site, as well as a summary sent via email afterwards listing all the options we discussed and the prices. I was happy with the experience.

-April H.

A
"My experience was quite positive in every respect.
was prompt, professional, and knowledgeable. He explained the process and the finished" work. All bits of insulation were swept up, so that the house was pristine when he left.
seemed to care about the quality of his work, not just blowing in some insulation and moving to another job.

-Barry K.

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Local Articles in Lake Oswego

snowy house

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Without proper insulation and venting in your attic, icicles can form on your eaves, leading to a damaging ice dam on your roof, says Neubecker. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Donna B. of Mendota Heights, Minn.)

Avoid ice dams with proper attic insulation

Do you have icicles forming on your eaves and gutters and ice collecting on your roof? An ice dam can cause serious problems without proper insulation.

Even in cold-weather climates, homes often lack insulation between the finished, occupied portion of the home and the ground. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Paul B. of Bluffton, South Carolina)
Insulation, Energy Efficiency Auditing

Exterior foundation insulation is an often overlooked home improvement. It can help stop drafts, lower energy bills and keep your house warmer during winter.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

With insulation technology always advancing, you’ve got choices to make when it comes to the material you pick, says Lindus. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Lynn M. of Columbus, Georgia)
Insulation

Thinking of installing your own insulation? One highly rated provider shares six things that every homeowner should be aware of before attempting to DIY.

Before winter arrives, ensure your attic is sealed properly and has both adequate insulation and ventilation. (Photo courtesy of member Kitty Jones of Columbus, Ohio)
Insulation, Heating & A/C, Roofing

A comfortable, energy efficient home starts at the top. Those hot spots and cold rooms may relate to problems in your attic. Beyond adding insulation, what's a homeowner to do?

Angie's Answers

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Google and read about it. Some people swear by it, though their comments sound suspiciously like they were all written by the same person. Some call it a rip off - expecially people paying $6000-8000 for what would normally be a $1,000 range job.

I would not call it an outright fraud as they are providing a product that has some potential merit in the right application, but from a technical standpoint it sounds suspicious. They claim a 1/4 mat with doiuble sided foil facing is R-16 insulation. This at least is deceptive - they appear to be saying its radiant heat reflective properties give the equivalent of R-16 insulation, because there is NO WAY 1/4" foam is going to yield R-16 in an ASTM test for insulation, which is a thermal conductivity test. Would be lucky to get R-2 or so as an insulator, so this is basically a radiant barrier. Competing products from national brandname manufacturers list R value of 3.8-4.2 for one inch mats, so the equivalent for this 1/4" mat would be expected to be in the R1 range.

Properly installed, with ventilation on BOTH sides, it can be slightly effective in reducing radiant heat loss from the house, and more effective in reflecting heat in the attic from coming down into the house. However, from a thermodynamic and vapor control standpoint, they are trouble unless their integration into the house envelope is designed VERY carefully. Short explanation:

1) for keeping heat in the house, if they are installed above the attic floor insulation they can slightly limit air loss through the ceiling, and reflect radiant heat back down, resulting in warmer insulation, hence a warmer ceiling - but not as marked an improvement as added insulation would give.

2) for keeping attic heat from getting into the ceiling, they do reflect back a good portion of the radiant heat coming from the roof sheathing. This reduces the attic floor insulation surface temperature, so can reduce air conditioning cost. it does increase teh temperature in the attic, which can be very bad for support timbers and the roof sheathing.

3) the worst thing about how this type of foil radiant barrier is used is that, unless it has free air space on both sides, it acts as a vapor barrier. In the typicall application as a blanket over attic floor insulation, it traps any moisture coming up from the house, and can cause mildew and rot, especially in climates where the outdoor temperature gets quite cold.

4) the attic fans are generally a last resort measure - the normal house does much better, at no energy cost, using ridge vents with adequate eave openings to provide ventilation and cooling in the attic.

5) their effectiveness in winter heat diminshes rapidly with time - tests of attic radiant barriers show they lose about half their effectvieness within 5 years, because even a light dust coating greatly reduces their ability to reflect radiant heat, and greatly increases the absorption of heat from the hot air above them.

6) pay attention to cost - from what I see, their installed cost is many times the cost of normal insualtion or radiant barrier placement.

I would say, in summary, buyer beware, and I would be inherently leery of a product being sold the same way timeshares and "secret" moneymaking schemes are.

?

Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

?

A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.

?
Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
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Insulation reviews in Lake Oswego

A

Rating
We were told that the cement needed to cure for 3-4 days. We could then move furniture against outside walls. We were pleased with the expediency that the work took place.
- Susan G.
A

Rating
Initial contact with
Lake Oswego Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was very positive. He was very knowledgeable and friendly. I felt like I was very well informed after our initial discussion.
Workers were prompt, professional, courteous and neat. They performed the work efficiently and left no mess.
Afterwards,
Lake Oswego Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
made sure we knew how to correctly fill out our rebate form to provide to the utility company.
I would recommend this company for insulation services.
- Michael R.
A

Rating
Bottom line: I'm using 40% less gas heating than before the insulation.
A & J gave me the best price. I was impressed with the thorough way in which
Lake Oswego Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
put together the estimate.
I also qualified for a rebate from Columbia Gas.
Lake Oswego Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
helped guide me with questions concerning the rebate process....More /> If your roof has wide
Lake Oswego Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
like I have,
Lake Oswego Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
doesn't make holes in your walls that you will have to repair. He blows the insulation into the wall from above. They put a tube all the way down between the wall studs and begin filling and compacting from the bottom. This may not be possible in newer homes that were built with fire breaks in the walls.
Under the windows they did have to drill through the mortar in the brick wall to get a hose in, and the way they patch that up it isn't noticeable at all.
The crew are polite and friendly and hardworking.
I've monitored my energy usage via my programmable thermostat and I'm running the furnace 40% less than before the work that
Lake Oswego Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
did.
I'm a happy camper. I can't say anything bad about A & J.
- Robert G.
C

Rating
Called for insulation for the attic. The salesman recommended insulating the garage ceiling to help combat a cold bedroom above the garage. I
went for it. Didn't make a great deal if difference. I called at least 5
times to speak to someone about it, but no ever called me back. Just
took my $ and didn't care what happened afterwards. Would not
recommend.
- anil M.
B

Rating
The work was not done as agreed. Did not insulate the attic door. When I got into the attic to check the work, there was foam all over my floor as it was not properly put in. They were punctual but the quality of the work is unsatisfactory given the amount paid for a small house.
- Demelash A.
A

Rating
The service was very good.
Lake Oswego Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
not only took the time to answer a lot of questions beforehand, but has also been very receptive to answering some questions afterward. After the initial job, a few recess lights had some foam coming out (which is normal) and
Lake Oswego Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
sent an electrician who he works with to correct it. The workers were courteous, quick, and knowledgeable. If you want a job expertly done with great customer service, I highly recommend Absolute.
- Cortney G.
A

Rating
Things went great from the initial estimate to the work performed. The workers were polite, quiet and cleaned up after themselves. Great work!
- Mark T.
A

Rating
Had twenty windows and sliding door installed. Outstanding experience every step of the way from choosing windows to installation. Excellent staff, personable, on time, meticulous work and cleanup. I highly recommend this company.
- Sharon G.

All Insulation Contractors in Lake Oswego, OR

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1-800 Water Damage

8002 NE Hwy 99

2Students Haulin & Landscape Maintenance

19495 SW Gassner Rd
Beaverton

3 R's Construction Management LLC

576 Patterson St NW
Salem

33 RESTORATION INC

631 SE Manchester Pl
Portland

4R HOUSE LLC

PO BOX 481
Dundee

A Cut Above Exteriors

12985 NW Cornell Road
Portland

A Guy I Know Inc

2850 SW Cedar Hills Blvd. #345
Beaverton

A Team Renovations LLC

3820 SE Clark Ct
Troutdale

AAROCO Construction LLC

6146 SE Lexington St
Portland

Abacus Energy Solutions LLC

3720 SW 141st Avenue
Beaverton

ABB STOVES LLC

3800 River Road N #180
Keizer

Adams General Construction

410 NE 3rd St
Mcminnville

Aden Roofing

6280 SW Pamela
Portland

Advanced Building Technologies, LLC.

11251 SE Cranberry Loop
Clackamas

Advanced Construction & Repair LLC

14758 SW 79th Ave
Portland

Affordable Remodeling LLC

7967 Mykala St. NE
Salem

Affordable Roofing & Gutter

15548 SW Willamette St.
Sherwood

Aire Serv Heating & Air Conditioning

1301 N First Ave
Silverton

ALEX FREDDI CONSTRUCTION LLC

9753 SW Appaloosa Place
Beaverton

All Generations LLC

PO Box 2342
Gladstone

All Season Windows

PO Box 6799
Portland

Alpha Ecological Oregon

1001 SW 5th Ave
Portland

AMA Construction Group

2272 SE Brookwood Ave
Hillsboro

AMERICAN HOME MAINTENANCE

4015 N CONCORD AVE
Portland

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

Ark Remodeling & Construction

1103 SE 54th Ave
Hillsboro

Artistic D-Zine Construction LLC

19379 meyers rd
Oregon City

Ask A Contractor

PO Box 143
Mcminnville

Atterbury Brothers Construction

14060 Canyon Ridge Cir
Oregon City

Aylwin Construction

3144 SE Tualatin Valley Hwy
Hillsboro

Balanced Energy Solutions

10409 NE Sandy Blvd
Portland

Bateman Construction

4991 SW Nevada Ct
Portland

Birdsmouth Construction LLC

1633 SE 55th
Portland

Bishop and Son Inc.

17698 SE Amity Vineyards Rd
Amity

BLACK ROCK CARPENTRY LLC

2940 SE Tacoma St
Portland

Bluestone & Hockley Maintenance

9320 SW Barbur Blvd.
Portland

Breunig Construction Inc.

14360 SE Haze Ct.
Portland

Bridgeport, Inc

8321 SW 175th Ave
Beaverton

BRITEWOOD REMODELING

2060 SW PATTULO WAY
West Linn

Build-It Green

105 N Killingsworth St., #1
Portland

Bull Mountain Heating, AC & Insulation

16869 SW 65th Ave.
Lake Oswego

C McNearney LLC

7415 SW Canyon Dr
Portland

C's Home Remodel & Repair

1221 SE Ellsworth Road

CARPENTRY HOME SERVICES LLC

378 SE 34th Ct
Hillsboro

Cascade Painting & Restoration

2116 SE Grant St
Portland

Casey's Plumbing Inc.

PO BOX 30075
Portland

CEDAR RIDGE HOMES

1905 SW 257TH AVE
Troutdale

Champion Window of Portland

13009 NE David Cir
Portland

Chase Heating & Cooling, Inc.

410 Beavercreek Road #506
Oregon City

Clear Vision Construction

11911 SE Division St.
Portland

COASTWIDE CONSTRUCTION

PO BOX 891
Pacific City

COHABIT DESIGN & CONSTRUCT

7821 N MISSISSIPPI
Portland

Concept Construction, Inc

121 E. Columbia River Hwy
Troutdale

Constructive Remodeling

5231 SE 111th Ave
Portland

Converging Creeks LLC

22745 S Bonney Rd
Colton

CRITTER CONTROL

6809 SE Foster Rd
Portland

CROSSE SERVICES INC

PO BOX 163
Oregon City

Cumulus Design

P.O Box 57
Saint Helens

CUSTOM TOUCH CONTRACTING

28525 SE LUSTED RD
Gresham

CYRUS CONSTRUCTION INCORPERATED

443 NE NORTON LN
Mcminnville

Dale's Remodeling

5514 Commercial St SE
Salem

Decco Design LLC

4719 NE 72nd Ave

Department of Construction LLC

3905 SE 174th Ave
Portland

Dillman Design Inc

17261 S Eaden Rd
Oregon City

Division 6 Contracting

14413 ne Douglas fir ct

Dixon Inc

8050 SE 13th Ave
Portland

Doss Design & Construction LLC

21550 SE Tillstrom Rd
Damascus

Douthit Thermal LLC

P.O Box 1119
Newberg

E&A AUTO REPAIR LLC

6014 NE 112th ave
Portland

EATON CONTRACTING INC

11508 NE 32ND ST

EATON GENERAL CONSTRUCTION

99 W HISTORIC COLUMBIA RIVER HWY
Troutdale

EcoTech

7302 N Richmond Ave
Portland

EMI Drywall

2900 SW Cornelius Pass Rd.
Hillsboro

Encompass Construction & Maintenance Services

16076 S Harding Rd
Oregon City

ENDEAVOR PLUMBING INC

PO BOX 28037
Portland

Energy Comfort Construction

15635 SE 114th Ave
Clackamas

Energy Unlimited LLC

38888 Pioneer Blvd
Sandy

Entek Corporation

7316 NE 47th Avenue

Enterprises Home Improvements, Inc

9505 SE 55th Ave
Portland

ESCM Inc

95 Foothills Rd
Lake Oswego

Ethereal Elements

16454 SW Cornelian Way
Beaverton

Evergreen Renovations

14605 SW Bonanza Ct
Beaverton

Exterior Touch Inc.

12610 Waverly RD.

Faison Energy Solutions LLC

1827 NE 44th Ave
Portland

Fine Finish Remodeling

15710 SW Redstone Drive
Beaverton

FORDE ENTERPRISES Inc

12855 SW 113TH PL
Portland

FOUR SEASONS CONTRACTING

3402 NE 141ST AVE

Garden Home Interiors

8409 SW 57th Ave
Portland

Getter Fixed Handyman, LLC

PO Box 11555
Portland

Gibson Roofing, Inc.

PO Box 2018
Clackamas

Giron General Construction LLC

5633 SE 111th Ave
Portland,

Good Energy Retrofit

1132 SW 57th Ave
Portland

Good Neighbor Handyman and Cleaning Services, LLC

11918 SE Division St Ste 443
Portland

Goose Hollow Window Co, Inc

5215 SW Childs Rd
Lake Oswego

Green Depot

819 SE Taylor
Portland

Green Energy Solutions

2074 NW Aloclek Drive Suite 408
Hillsboro

Green Hammer

1323 SE 6th Ave
Portland

Green House Building + Remodeling

5924 N E29th Ave
Portland

Green Planet Construction, LLC

po Box 246
Lake Oswego

GreenSavers USA - Portland

3637 NE Sandy Blvd
Portland

GREENVIEW HOMES LLC

4723 N WILLAMETTE BLVD
Portland

Gresham Roofing and Construction

2229 NE Burnside St #128
Gresham

GruntWorks

8630 SW Scholls Ferry Rd
Beaverton

Halgren Construction

23629 SW Ladd Hill Rd
Sherwood

Hammer & Hand

1020 Southeast Harrison St
Portland

HammerWorks LLC

17514 SW 104th Ave
Tualatin

Handyman Matters

7350 SW Landmark Ln Ste 114
Tigard

HARDLINE DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION INC

8480 SE STRAWBERRY LN
Portland

Harmony Contracting

1348 NE Zachary St
Hillsboro

Harper Construction & Renovation, LLC

1285 SW 84th Ave
Portland

HAVEN BUILDERS LLC

7205 NE MALLORY AVE
Portland

Healthy Home Services

14710 SE LEE AVE
Portland

Heat Relief

13122 NE David Cir
Portland

HELBERG CONSTRUCTION

15896 Apperson Blvd
Oregon City

Henderson & Daughter

11819 A NE Hwy 99

HFS Construction & Remodeling, LLC

14155 SE Baumback Ave
Sandy

High Performance Homes

4200 SE Columbia Way

His Builders LLC

PO Box 967
Boring

Home Improvement Pro

2073 N Maple St
Canby

Home Improvement Services Mudpuppy Division

8380 SW Birchwood Rd
Portland

HOME VISIONS WEST a division of GESI

2074 NW Aloclek
Hillsboro

Hunter Construction & Renovation

4479 SE Antelope Hills Pl
Gresham

Hutchco Construction Inc.

2553 NW Division St
Gresham

IBP Portland

6750 S.W. 111th Avenue
Beaverton

Imagine Energy LLC

2409 N Kerby Ave
Portland

Indigo Construction

19190 SW 90TH Ave. #1748
Tualatin

InsulPro Projects (Comm)

26277 SW 95TH Ave
Wilsonville

Interstate Pest Management

5320 SW Macadam Avenue, Suite 100
Portland

Interstate Roofing

15065 SW 74th Ave
Portland

J & S Home Maintenance LLC

15986 SE Tallina Dr
Damascus

Jacobs Heating & Air Conditioning, Inc.

4474 SE Milwaukie Ave
Portland

James Poggi Inc

PO Box 82550
Portland

JB Construction Services Inc

PO Box 10071
Portland

JB Wood Construction

2830 Burlington Dr
Newberg

JLC Construction LLC

P.O. Box 25361
Portland

John Webb Construction & Design

1256 Willagillespie RD
Eugene

John's Waterproofing

201 Airport Rd
Silverton

Joseph Ketner Construction

22707 SE Firwood Rd
Sandy

K & R Quality Construction LLC

85861 Bailey Hill Rd
Eugene

Kaya General Contractors

5802 N Greeley Ave
Portland

Kemp's Windows Inc

16107 SE Mcloughlin Blvd
Portland

Lake Oswego Cleaners

461 2nd St
Lake Oswego

Lanphere Construction & Development

13625 SW Farmington Road
Beaverton

Lariat Roofing & Construction

PO Box 22875
Milwaukie

LEITNER CONSTRUCTION

PO Box 1665
Fairveiw

Lo's Contracting, Inc.

4110 NE 122nd Ave
Portland

London Pride

3326 NE 66th Ave
Portland

LORENTZ BRUUN CONSTRUCTION

3611 SE 20 AVE
Portland

Lux Construction Inc

2528 SE Salmon
Portland

Lyons Heating & Cooling

PO Box 849
Lyons

M Leon Construction

123 Not Specified
Portland

M.I.C.I.

St Helens

Majo Ahrens Construction Inc.

1170 SE River Forest Rd
Portland

Matrix Roofing

PO Box 822440

Maximum Construction

18410 S Green View Dr
Oregon City

McLaren's Carpet One Floor & Home

24403 S Hwy 99 E
Canby

MECHANICAL INSULATION CONTRNG

PO BOX 10736
Portland

Merritt H Beymer Craftsman & Handyman LLC

19488 Silverfox Pkwy
Oregon City

Michael Lex Construction

8820 SW 21st Ave
Portland

Mighty Mike's Handyman Services LLC.

452 Scott St S.
Monmouth

MoldEaters

2210 W Main St

N W C - NICK WEITZER COMPANY

111 SE 71ST ST
Portland

Neil G. Blatner

9355 SW 12th Dr.
Portland

Neil Kelly Design Build Remodeling

804 N Alberta St
Portland

Nest-Assured Construction

873 SE Oak Glen Way Apt 242
Hillsboro

New World Inc

3439 NE SANDY BLVD STE 689
Portland

Northwest Insulation LLC

19630 SW 90th Ct
Tualatin

Northwest Restoration

PO Box 3264
Tualatin

Northwest Siding & Windows

17039 SW Edy Rd
Sherwood

NW Home Energy Solutions LLC

1780 NW 113th Ave
Portland

NW Insulation Experts, LLC

2225 SW Lafollett Rd
Cornelius

NW Renovations

PO Box 186
Sherwood

OHI Construction

17255 Pilkington Rd
Lake Oswego

ONE LAST CARESS CONSTRUCTIONLLC

6125 SE NEHALEM ST
Portland

OREGON GREEN SOLUTIONS

1670 SW 87TH AVE
Portland

PACIFIC NORTHWEST CABINETRY

7190 SE KING RD
Portland

PACIFIC WEST ROOFING

9360 SW Tualatin-Sherwood Rd.
Tualatin

PARALLAX CONTRACTING INC

2738 SE 98th Ave
Portland

PARKER BUILDINGS INC

3540 2ND ST
Hubbard

Perfect Touch Drywall Inc

32758 S Mathias Rd
Molalla

Performance Insulation & Energy Services, Inc.

12700 SW Hall Blvd Suite F
Tigard

Permit-It.com

PO Box 998

Pest Free

12919 NE 126th PL Ste B

Phillip Norman Attic Access

1234 NE 118th Avenue
Portland

Portland Construction Solutions

14915 SW 72nd Ave
Portland

POWER VAC LLC

PO BOX 17126
Portland

Premier Design Group

3737 N Alaska St
Portland

PRO-BILT INC

6135 SW 150TH AVE
Beaverton

PROFESSIONAL MINORITY GROUP INC

27090 SE Highway 224
Eagle Creek

Pyramid Heating & Cooling

9409 NE Colfax St.
Portland

Randy Garrison Construction

PO BOX 66352
Portland

RCG SERVICE, LLC

11235 SW 83RD AVE
Portland

RESTORATIONS BY K&C INC

3523 NE 119th Avenue
Portland

Revival Energy Group

7208 NE Hazel Dell Ave.

REYNOLDS CONSTRUCTION COMPANY

6860 SW NORSE HALL RD
Tualatin

Rich's Repair All

17611 NE 188th Ct

Richart Family, Inc.

14600 NE 20TH AVE

Ridgefield Homes LLC

PO Box 22262
Portland

Right Arm Construction Inc

1045 SE Rimrock Ln
Portland

Robben & Sons Heating Inc

2214 SE 8th Ave
Portland

Rockstar Remodel

6533 SW Virginia Ave Ste G
Portland

RON WACKERLY CONSTRUCTION

6014 NE RODNEY AVE
Portland

Rose City Maintenance & Remodeling

1104 SE 148th Ave
Portland

RP Construction

6138 Inwood Ln S
Salem

RUEBEN CORTEZ INTERIORS

6814 N VANCOUVER AVE
Portland

RUPP FAMILY CONSTRUCTION , INC

29030 SW Town Center Loop E
Wilsonville

Schulz Construction llc.

11222 SW 84th Avenue

SE Construction, LLC

PO Box 2294
Clackamas

Searles Construction LLC

13500 SW Pacific HWY
Portland

Sensible Energy Solutions

1100 SE Woodward St.
Portland

Service Group Construction

10411 NE Fourth Plain,

SHAWNZ' PLUMBING LLC

15051 SE Bluff Rd
Sandy

Shepard Brothers Management

2830 NW 29th Ave
Portland

Siri Construction

6816 SE Belmont St
Portland

SITKA PROJECTS LLC

10157 SW Barbur Blvd Ste 100C
Portland

Smith's Remodeling

36466 SE Coupland Rd.
Estacada

Specialty Heating & Cooling, Inc.

7500 SW Tech Center Dr. #130
Tigard

SPECTRUM HOMES INC

6875 SE BRIGADOON ST
Portland

Steve Zielinski, General Contractor

1414 SE 40th Ave
Portland

Streamline Dwellings

3525 N Baldwin St
Portland

Stride Construction

9222 SE Woodstock Blvd
Portland

SUN DOG CONSTRUCTION

Mt. Tabor. SE Portland.
Portland

Sun Glow Inc

2428 SE 105Th Ave
Portland

Sunrise Window Svc

18740 Se Cheldelin Rd
Damascus

Swanson Construction Inc

PO BOX 1874
Sandy

Sweetheart Carpentry and Design LLC

5529 N Vancouver Ave
Portland

TCD Interiors, Inc.

PO Box 2503
Oregon City

TerraFirma Foundation Systems

761 NE Garden Valley Blvd
Roseburg

the affordable home doctor

1586 SE Marion St
Portland

The Killers

9498 Southwest Barbur Blvd
Portland

The Maintenance Guy LLC

1540 N. Blandena St.
Portland

The SHIR Corporation

9411 NE HWY 99 Ste. 1

THE WORKS

1303 SE 6th Ave
Portland

Timber Creek Construction Inc

11350 SE 121st Ct
Happy Valley

TOP DRAWER DEVELOPMENT

25252 SW McConnell Rd
Sherwood

TROY SCHULZ CONSTRUCTION

13611 NW Willis Rd
Mcminnville

Urban K. Hutchins Construction

54 SE 78th Ave
Portland

USI JB Insulation

14255 SW Galbreath Dr
Sherwood

Vale Insulation Group Inc

PO Box 1497
Gresham

Valiant Construction Inc

6107 SW Murray Blvd
Beaverton

Venture Construction and Remodeling LLC

6635 SW Hyland Way
Beaverton

Verde Energy

6899 NE Columbia Blvd
Portland

WALLACE L RAINEY

PO BOX 1682
Beaverton

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WM. D. Herboth Remodeling Inc.

6006 NE Rodney Ave
Portland

Woods Roofing LLC

PO Box 68448
Portland

Yellow Duck Construction LLC

10 Abelard st
Lake Oswego

Zilco Northwest

Beaverton

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