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B
" Very well, the contractor phoned and explained my situation. He requested that I authorize the work and then he can be more precise about the price. The price" was not reduced. He did the job he was contracted to do. The tech also suggested using a giological flush each month to prevent the future clogs. mily

-Mark Z.

A
"As usual went well, have used before. Very honest, does good work, has good rates, and squeezed us in due to an inspection deadline. Recommend" and if we weren't moving out of town he would stay our go to plumber.

-Derek R.

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Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

You have not said how old your house is, what normal water line life in your area is, whether it is leaking under the foundation or under the yard, etc. Cost depends a great deal on length of run, depth to dig to get below frost line, whether excavation will be through trees or other obstructions or open area, whether ground along route is too steep for a backhoe to work on, etc.

The first thing you really need to figure out is whether this is a spot repair issue, or a total line replacement issue. Your plumber should be able to help with that determination.  Very general rule of thumb - very old line from before 80's, if galvanized pipe, could be at its practical life and be ready for total replacement. Copper line generally last about 50-70 years UNLESS in a corrosive soil environment or if it has groundwater flowing actively past it, then can be 20-30 years. Plastic lines from the 60's to 80's vary a lot - from as little as 10 years to 50 plus dependingon brand. Plastic lines (PVC, HDPE, PE) from the 80's and later are expected to last 50-100 years - most have not failed yet, so no good handle on how long they will last.

An above-ground or under the slab line a plumber will do. Buried line outside he generally subcontracts to an excavator to dig and backfill the line, or asks you to get the excavation done.

 

If section needing replacement is under your floor slab or foundation, then a full replacement can be many thousands of $ depending on how many linear feet, and if interior flooring will have to be replaced or if you are on a bare concrete slab or bringing the new line in above-ground once you get through the foundation. A simple one-spot buried pipe repair (based on acoustic locating and precisely measuring the location of the problem) can be as little as $400 but probably more often $1000 or so - more if poor access like under a slab underneath stairs.

If the runs to be replaced are exposed in a crawl space or basement than it can run as little as $20/LF (probably $400 minimum job cost) to replace.

 

Outside line to the street can run from as little as $10/LF in areas where the pipe is shallow (no annual frost penetration) and in easy digging soil, to $250/LF or more if deeply buried, have to excavate through trees and heavy roots or boulders, steep topography, other utility interferences etc. Generally not more than $50/LF. Commonly, instead of digging up the old line, they select a new semi-parallel route from a good connection point for you existing interior water lines at the foundation (maybe not where it currently comes in, depoending on access) to the street main shutoff valve (called a "key box", taking a route between them that is easiest to get a backhoe into and minimizes destruction of valuable plantings or trees. A number of $50/LF is commonly tossed around as "normal" for this type of job, if exceeding 100 feet or so and digging and access conditions are normal.

If your connection is in the middle of the street rather than along your side in the yard, that can easily add $2-5,000 to the job, as the water utility usually has to do that part, and repair the street afterwards. In a major throughway street, even more because of traffic control, multi-agency permits, etc.

 

As always, find 2-3 responsible, well-recommended (Anglie's List ?) contractors, and then get bids. The route I would go is first go with your regular plumber to locate the leak (probably acoustically, by listening for the leak) and determine the scope of work needed, then if major, go for multiple bids.

 

?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

?
FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
www.thomeservices.com

Drain Cleaning reviews in Hillsboro

A

Rating
was very timely in meeting appointments and project start time. Due to tricky path around existing electrical system got a second opinion on the project and provided alternative recommendations. He and his team completed the work in one 12 hour day which we expected would take at least 2 days. He was ...More so concerned with appearance of visible work that he returned and redid a tricky connection to improve appearance. Team was extremely flexible working around family events and minimized time water service was shut down.
- Guy D.
A

Rating
I explained the problem, shared what I knew about the layout of the underground sewer lines, and the plumber got to work. We were surprised to find a large knot of paper/rags of some sort in the drain, but it was quickly and efficiently removed and we're now back to free-running drains. Prompt and efficient; great service.
- Durwin S.
A

Rating
He was able to give us a quick appointment, showed up on time, assessed the problem, had to go to Lowes for parts, and replaces some clogged filters that were causing the low pressure issue. He was done quickly and we were up and running in no time!
- LAURA M.
A

Rating
Everything was fantastic. I called that day about scheduling a main line clean and was pleasantly surprised that they were available same day. They arrived when they said they would. The two gentlemen who performed the service were courteous and knowledgeable. They left everything as it was, not an item out of place when the work was complete. ...More I was very pleased with the price, it was much lower than the other places I contacted. I have already added them to my address book, there is no question that I would use them again :)
One last bit I can't forget, I received a call after the service was performed to make sure everything was done to my satisfaction. Above and beyond customer service that seems to be lost theses days!!
- Nichole S.
A

Rating
My husband and I had a really great experience with this company! Our sewer line backed up and we tried to snake it with another company but it didn't work so we had to hydro jet the clogged pipe. Unfortunately it ended up being a much bigger problem than just a clog. There were a lot of roots but we also saw that part of the sewer line had ...More collapsed and it was in a place that wasn't easy to access. :( Their crew came out quickly, they were very professional and they showed me everything that was going on until I understood it. Then they worked with me to go over the options for repairs until we found the best option, which I was really pleased with. Then the best thing - they moved quickly - which was great because we couldn't take showers or flush our toilets, etc.!! Their workers - Gio and Michi and a few others - were really considerate, friendly and extremely hard-working. I was very impressed with their work ethic! The supervisor, , was really friendly and helpful and helped to work out a good deal, along with the owner. They seemed more focused on getting the job done right and finding the best solution and not on running up a huge bill. The guys were at our house for 3 days and they worked hard - even coming in all day on Saturday to get our plumbing up and running as quickly as possible. I really appreciated their efforts to finish the job as quickly as possible!!! All in all, I was really pleased with their prices, their quality and their work ethic. I would definitely recommend them and use them again myself.
- holly Q.
A

Rating
I have currently employed the plumbing services of " " on three occasions and have been very satisfied each time with the professionalism of Mr. (the owner). I am in the real estate business and have over the years employed many plumbers and Mr. is the best of those. He ...More offers suggestions/options and provides detailed answers to all of my questions. You feel that he thinks problems thru and does not rush a job in order to finish quickly and get paid. I would highly recommend ' " to all Angie's List members.
- FLORIAN S.
A

Rating
returned our message promptly. He was available to to do the repair work in about an hour and a half. He arrived before the estimated time. He was friendly and professional. He inspected the leak and recommended that we replace both the hot and cold water pipe due to the age and condition of the pipes. We agreed to his recommendation. ...More He used copper pipes and completed the work in about two hours. The workmanship was excellent! We would recommend using for your plumbing needs.
- Greg Y.
A

Rating
Although the appointment had been scheduled for early in the morning, came only a couple of hours later. When I called the office it took a while till called me back. She apologized for the delay because of unforeseen problems with another job. Because the bathroom shower drain was blocked she snaked ...More the drain. She ran the cable a couple of times down the drain. Although nothing could be brought up, there seemed to be something resisting the snake. could eventually destroy the blockage. She also tested all other drains in the house. worked very thoroughly and explained what and why she was doing it. She is very friendly and professional. Except of the scheduling and responsiveness which was not optimal in my case I was very pleased with her work. I will hire her again.
- Gudrun N.

Drain Cleaning Companies in Hillsboro, OR

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

2Students Haulin & Landscape Maintenance

19495 SW Gassner Rd
Beaverton

3 Mountains Plumbing

524 N. Tillamook St
Portland

A.C.S. Northwest

6028 se 51st ave

Aaron Wilson Enterprises Inc - American Serviceman

6745 Northwest 271st Avenue
Hillsboro

Able Heating & Cooling LLC

16285 SW 85th Ave
Tigard

Ackerman Plumbing Services

7493 SE Overland St
Portland

Advanced Plumbing LLC

PO Box 593
Portland

Affordable Remodeling LLC

7967 Mykala Street NE
Salem

Alf Solutions

9530 SW 6th Ave
Portland

ALL IN ONE PLUMBING INC

16321 Southeast Hillside Lane
Portland

All Pro Plumbing Services LLC

15712 NW Overton Dr
Beaverton

All Star Plumbing and Drains

420 Dewey St
Oregon City

Alliance Plumbing

146 SW West Columbia River Highway
Troutdale

ALOHA SANITARY SERVICE

8600 SW HILLSBORO HWY
Hillsboro

AMERICAN DRAIN CLEANING

12303 SE 80TH AVE
Portland

American Plumbing Services LP

5905 N Interstate Ave
Portland

Anctil Plumbing Inc

16900 SW Merlo Rd
Beaverton

Apollo Drain & Rooter Service

2208 NW Birdsdale Ave
Gresham

Aquarian Plumbing

14674 NW Cornell Road
Portland

Aquifer Plumbing LLC

9293 SW North Dakota St
Portland

B&Js Handyman Services Portland

8520 SE Woodstock Blvd
Portland

BEAVERTON PLUMBING INC

13980 SW TUALATIN VALLEY HWY
Beaverton

Best Price Plumbing & Drain

4130 SW 117th Ave
Beaverton

Bluestone & Hockley Maintenance

9320 SW Barbur Blvd.
Portland

Bruner Plumbing Inc

PO Box 23985
Portland

CAD Construction LLC

4220 NE 122nd Ave
Portland

Cascade Plumbing Co.

15765 SW 74th Ave Ste 110
Portland

Cascadia Plumbing LLC

455 SW 18th St
Troutdale

Cheshier Plumbing

34798 SE Coupland Rd
Estacada

Choice Home Warranty

1090 King Georges Post Rd

Clog Busters LLC

2900 SW Cornelius Pass Rd
Hillsboro

CNW CONSTRUCTION INC.

15140 SE 82nd Dr.
Clackamas

Craig Anderson Plumbing Inc

2730 SE 15th Ave
Portland

CYRUS CONSTRUCTION INCORPERATED

443 NE NORTON LN
Mcminnville

David E. Logue Construction

3564 SW. Hillside dr
Portland

David Loggins, LLC.

489 S. 17th St.
Saint Helens

Deluxe Handyman Service

PO Box 6838
Beaverton

Detemple Co Inc Plumbing Heating & Air

1951 NW Overton St
Portland

DLH PLUMBING

255 Count Fleet Rd

DRAIN AWAY ROOTER

PO BOX 446
Gladstone

Elite Plumbing Incorporated

6023 SE Nehalem St
Portland

Encore Facilities Management

8166 SW Durham Rd
Portland

EXCELLENCE PLUMBING, LLC

7913 SW Nimbus Ave
Beaverton

Flow-Rite Plumbing

Beaverton, OR
Beaverton

Garden Home Plumbing & Drain

6725 SW Florence Ln
Portland

GOODMAN SANITATION INC

931 NE HARLOW PL
Troutdale

GORMLEY PLUMBING + MECHANICAL

1715 NE LAFAYETTE AVE
Mcminnville

Grumpy's Drains

14428 NE Failing St.
Portland

GruntWorks by HouseHappy

380 NW 13th Ave.
Portland

Hammer and Wrench PDX

9834 SE Linwood Ave
Milwaukie

Home Heroes

19630 SW 90th Ct
Tualatin

HPS Pipe & Supply

598 Baseline St
Cornelius

In Your Home

16869 SW 65th Ave
Lake Oswego

Jacobs Heating & Air Conditioning, Inc.

4474 SE Milwaukie Ave
Portland

JAW Construction Inc

Po Box 2476
Gresham

Jim's Handyman

17930 SW Arbela Ct
Beaverton

JNM Plumbing, LLC

28150 S Meridian Rd
Aurora

Justin Bolstad

3561 SE Long St.
Portland

K Brothers Plumbing

617 SE 10th St

Kennedy Plumbing Inc

13985 SW Farmington Road
Beaverton

Knight Plumbing LLC

PO Box 751
Gladstone

KRAFTSMAN PLUMBING LLC

2606 A ST
Forest Grove

KTP PLUMBING

8455 SW Homewood St
Portland

Lanphere Construction & Development

13625 SW Farmington Road
Beaverton

LEONARD'S PLUMBING & CONSTRUCTION

14310 SE CRYSTAL CT
Portland

Living Water Plumbing Inc

39234 Cascadia Village Dr
Sandy

M P Plumbing Co

15330 SE 82nd Dr
Clackamas

MACNSONS CONSTRUCTION INC

7888 SE 46TH AVE
Portland

Malmedal Plumbing, Inc.

P.O. Box 207
Banks

Masterworks Plumbing

PO Box 16821
Portland

MD Plumbing LLC

939 sw willowcreek dr
Beaverton

Meoak Contracting LLC

16491 Hiram AVe

Miller Residential Services

15055 se Thornton Drive
Portland

MLP Plumbing Co

4505 SW 194 Court
Beaverton

Nelson Plumbing

8360 SW Mohawk St
Tualatin

Nodak Construction

6535 NW 170th Ave
Portland

North's Plumbing, II LLC

3960 SW 173 Rd
Beaverton

NW Home Services LLC

6941 SE BIXEL WAY
Milwaukie

OC BOHEMIA CONSTRUCTION

2103 NE 349 th st

Parfitt Plumbing

12172 SE 222nd Dr
Damascus

Pavel's Tile Llc

2900 General Anderson rd

PGC LLC

P O Box 220179
Portland

PIPELINE PLUMBING

333 S STATE ST
Lake Oswego

Piper Mechanical, Inc

9317 NE 72nd Ave

PORTLAND PLUMBING & DRAIN LLC

7456 BASLINE RD
Hillsboro

POSITIVE PLUMBING

17676 SW Sarala St
Beaverton

POWER PLUMBING

6611 SW MULTNOMAH BLVD
Portland

Precision Plumbing

10569 Northwest Lost Park Drive
Portland

PREMIER PLUMBING

20 SW 131ST AVE
Beaverton

ProDrain & Rooter Service

3300 NW 185th Ave
Portland

ProServ Oregon

22115 NW Imbrie Dr. #227
Hillsboro

Puddletown Plumbing LLC

4643 SE 52nd Ave
Portland

Rainforest Plumbing

2594 NE Beech Ave
Gresham

Ranieri Plumbing

2229 NE Burnside St.
Gresham

RC PLUMBING LLC

PO Box 123
Portland

Rose City Plumbing

8930 SW Homewood ST
Portland

Roth Heating & Cooling

6990 S Anderson St
Aurora

ROYAL FLUSH PLUMBING

PO BOX 507
Beavercreek

RUPP FAMILY CONSTRUCTION , INC

29030 SW Town Center Loop E
Wilsonville

Service Plumber Hillsboro

160 SE Washington St
Hillsboro

Sharon Caldwell Designer Cleaning

201 Bina Drive
Newberg

SHAWNZ' PLUMBING LLC

15051 SE Bluff Rd
Sandy

Sherwood Plumbing Company

22718 Sw Martin ct.
Sherwood

Signature Plumbing Services

5910 Duniway Ave.
Gladstone

Simpson Plumbing, LLC

24605 NE 14th St

SOS Plumbing Inc

8565 SW 80th Avenue
Portland

SPEEDY SEPTIC

PO BOX 1260
Boring

Superior Service and Repair

8600 NE St Johns Rd

Sutherland Plumbing LLC

6765 SW 213th Ave
Aloha

The Plumbers Inc

8900 SW Burnham St
Portland

The Unplugger

5335 SE 104th Ave
Portland

Titan Plumbing & Mechanical LLC

PO Box 1803
Clackamas

Waterboy Plumbing & Drain

1600 NE 137th Ave
Lake Oswego

Watts Heating & Cooling

580 Portland Ave
Gladstone

West Side Drain

PO Box 1050
Gaston

Wolfer's Heating & AC

1365 N Front St
Woodburn

Woodburn Plumbing, Inc

3311 SE McKever Road

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