Eugene Electricians

in Eugene, OR

132
Electricians are
in Eugene

58
Electricians in Eugene
are top rated

A
Rated by
Roger G.
"After choosing make and model of devices and date to install, the display showed most of the time a
blue screen. Re-ordering a replacement display which also" did not work properly, a third display was ordered and installed. This time after a week of use it is performing nicely. The patience of Dad's management and installer through the above trial was excellent.
C
Rated by
Ann B.
"I purchased a big deal and it took a couple weeks just to get the estimate. I had 5 ceiling fans and 2 light fixtures to replace. They sent one electrician and after being at my house" all day he only had 2 ceiling fans and 1 light fixture up. The scaffolding he had to reach the entryway light didn't work (I gave the dimensions of my ceiling before hand), and while installing a ceiling fan in the kitchen he hit a water pipe and water went everywhere and down into the basement. He was very apologetic, cleaned up the mess and said they would call to reschedule the rest of the job. After a week without hearing back from MVP I hired someone else. After adding up the "big deal" and the bill I paid the plumber, I still owed MVP $5.70. I asked if they would waive that fee since I had to take another weekday to meet the drywall guy for repairs, not to mention their electrician had left the decorative collar off the ceiling fan in my living room. MVP declined. Silver lining is that I found 3 great companies.
Electric did an amazing job for hundreds less than what MVP was charging me!
County Home Service Plumbing was at my house within 10 min. after the water pipe was hit and the Drywall Dr did a great job repairing my ceiling. I will not use
again and you can be sure they are going nowhere near my furnace or a/c. Overpriced. Poor workmanship. Poor customer service.
A
Rated by
James P.
"I originally had a 20 x 16 shop built by
's
Construction, and as my needs rapidly changed and I needed to double it's size" and add some design enhancements with an overhead door to allow for larger equipment.
was again my choice to do the work, as my first experience from pricing to schedule to quality had been excellent, and the quote for this job was appropriate. The shop extension job was also done just exactly as promised, on schedule, with great quality. You would never know the original shop was modified to double it's size.
's crews and personnel were professional, and courteous,
again closely oversaw all aspects of the project. I have personally recommended
's
Construction to others and to commercial requests for reference, and will continue to do so. I could not be more pleased with the work performed by
Construction. My next project is in the planning stages, and I will be looking to continue my business relationship with
construction when I'm ready to have it built.

Local Articles in Eugene

Winter guide

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Ryan Electric owner Pat Ryan says he always makes sure clients inspect his work and are satisfied before he leaves a job. (Photo courtesy of Brody Ryan)

Hiring an Electrician

Since the days of Thomas Edison, the practical applications of electricity have become exponentially more complex. Becoming an electrician requires extensive training and continuing education to keep up with technology that changes constantly. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

One LED can last up to 50,000 hours, the equivalent of 42 60-watt incandescent bulbs. (Photo by Hugh Vandivier)
Lighting, Electrical

LED lights are quickly becoming popular choices for interior home lighting, but can they really compete with incandescent bulbs? Are there any downsides to using light-emitting diodes?

Outdoor holiday lighting, LED holiday lighting
Electrical, Holiday Decorating, Garage Doors

When hanging holiday lights, the safest power source is the nearest outlet. If that’s not possible, look for an appropriate extension cord or a power stake.

Hugh Vandivier
Lighting, Electrical

Those familiar incandescent bulbs are being phased out, replaced by new, more energy-efficient bulbs. But what's behind compact fluorescent lights (CFLs) and light-emitting diodes (LEDs)?

Electrical work is extremely dangerous, so make sure you hire a licensed pro for work around the home.
Electrical

If you discover that you have an old Federal Pacific breaker box, a faulty circuit breaker or an outdated fuse box, how much can you expect to pay to have a qualified electrician replace it?

Angie's Answers

?
Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

?

An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

?

If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrical reviews in Eugene

A

Rating
Eugene Electricians Provider Name Locked
was extremely professional, efficient and knowledgeable. The service provided and final price were both better than anticipated. I highly recommend
Eugene Electricians Provider Name Locked
!
- Lisa C.
A

Rating
He was on time, professional, affordable and he did a great job and this appointment was late in the evening. I commend him for his attitude. The services were provided at a rental property.
- Cara P.
A

Rating
We had a somewhat complex project for the landscaping of our property. Nick took us to a property where he was landscaping a back yard. We were impressed with his work and decided to hire him. He also took us out to a nursery to pick out the trees and bushes. Nick and his crew were very professional, on time and hard working. Nick is an excellent landscape contractor with significant experience in landscape design and installation, and a flair for turning artistic expression into reality. He is very knowledgeable in the types and species of plants, trees and bushes, which look best and which will best survive in the summer heart and winter frosts. He and his crew did an excellent job of installation of the landscaping, which involved placement of rock and boulders, a beautiful dry creek bed in the front yard, irrigation valve, back-flow preventer, irrigation water lines, and the low voltage lighting fixture placement. He used the best materials, which will require less maintenance and will last longer. He installed 3 spaghetti irrigation tubes for each of the large trees (2 deep and one surface) and 2 spaghetti tubes for the smaller trees and some bushes. System testing of the automatic irrigation and lighting systems were successfully performed. A couple of minor adjustments were made to the design as the work progressed to improve the looks and functionality of the landscaping, including additional lighting. My wife and I highly recommend Scape Tech for the design and installation of landscaping.
Eugene Electricians Provider Name Locked
and Barb
Eugene Electricians Provider Name Locked

- Timothy M.
A

Rating
Working with
Eugene Electricians Provider Name Locked
was great from start to finish he was very knowledgeable on what to do and provided good ideas on lighting this is the 2nd time I used this company and I am pleased with the results I was first hesitant on the recommendation
Eugene Electricians Provider Name Locked
made about changing garage lights from a 24 double side fluorescent fixture to a 48inch one but I am so GLAD i did it looks like another room in there with all the light I absolutely love it!!
Eugene Electricians Provider Name Locked
is patient and very detail oriented on how he carries himself when it comes to his profession Thanks
Eugene Electricians Provider Name Locked
!
- jaison T.
A

Rating
It went very well.
Eugene Electricians Provider Name Locked
arrived at the appointment time and went straight to work. The ceiling in the great room in 11' high and he set up his ladder and changed out the fan without comment. His "ad" had indicated he required notification if the ceiling was 12' or higher so I had hoped there wouldn't be a problem and there wasn't. He was friendly without being chatty, professional, and worked with a minimum of fuss. My kind of service provider.
- Marilou S.
A

Rating
Excellent service. Would not use anyone else again. Family owned and operated. Trustworthy and generally nice and friendly and very professional. They had to climb out onto my awning to do the work through my window and I wasn't even a little nervous. Replacing the switch was priced a little higher then I expected but You get what you pay for.
- Lauren L.
A

Rating
I called to set up an appointment to rewire some switches, and
Eugene Electricians Provider Name Locked
gave me some helpful information over the phone and offered to talk me through it later when I had the right switch. As it turned out, his hint was all I needed. I very much appreciated his willingness to provide free advice, instead of a paid service call. I will call him next time I need an electrician.
- Hank Z.

All Electricians in Eugene, OR

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A2H Electric Corporation

PO Box 862
Cottage Grove

AAA Quality Construction Inc

3829 Kevington Street
Eugene

Able Heating & Cooling LLC

16285 SW 85th Ave
Tigard

ACCESS CONTROL UNLIMITED

PO Box 23206
Eugene

Accurbore Inc

11567 Lake Shore Dr

Advanced Energy Systems, LLC.

65 Centennial Loop
Eugene

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave SE

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

APPLIED INDUSTRIAL TECH INC

3150 W 5TH AVE
Eugene

ARC ELECTRIC INC

85783 HIGHWAY 99 S
Eugene

ATR AIR INC

211 GRIMES ST
Eugene

AUTOMATIC HEAT

1140 Ocean St
Eugene

BARRY ELECTRIC

434 CHARNELTON ST
Eugene

BEACON ELECTRIC & LIGHTING

2585 ROOSEVELT BLVD
Eugene

Bear Electric Inc

20985 Butteville Rd NE
Donald

BEAR MOUNTAIN ELECTRIC

85388 DILLARD ACCESS RD
Eugene

BILL'S ELECTRIC

87750 Charlet Dr
Eugene

Builder's Electric, Inc.

195 Madison St
Eugene

BURNHAM CONSTRUCTION

PO BOX 70374
Eugene

BURRELL BROS ELECTRIC

4660 Main St
Springfield

C & S ELECTRIC CO

214 S 19TH ST
Springfield

CABLE COMMUNICATIONS INC

4065 W 11TH AVE
Eugene

CAMP CREEK ELECTRIC

34597 HIGHWAY 58
Eugene

CAROLYN'S CONSTRUCTION

1428 PIEDMONT ST
Springfield

Cherry City Electric

1596 22nd St SE
Salem

Comfort Flow Heating

1951 Don St
Springfield

Contractors Electric

4224 West 7th Ave
Eugene

COOPER POWER SYSTEMS INC

2225 Jeppesen Acres Rd
Eugene

Corvallis Custom Kitchens & Baths

602 NW 4th St
Corvallis

CROW VALLEY ELECTRIC

2952 ALLANE LN
Eugene

Custom Coach & Trailer Works Inc

81413 Clause rd
Lowell

Dale's Remodeling

5514 Commercial St SE
Salem

DAVID STUCK ELECTRIC LLC

965 TYINN ST
Eugene

Day Star Electric

2220 NE 199 St

DELL'S ELECTRIC

PO BOX 25707
Eugene

Dicks Heating & Air Conditioning

1516 45th ST E Suite 200

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

DO ALL MAINTENANCE INC

2024 BROADVIEW ST
Eugene

DOUG PALMER ELECTRIC LLC

3666 RIVER POINTE
Eugene

EASTSIDE ELECTRIC

38253 BOSCAGE LN
Springfield

EMK MECHANICAL INC

4290 W 11TH AVE
Eugene

Empire 3 Services

P.O. Box 70648
Eugene

Energy Design

PO Box 26039
Eugene

ENVIRONMENTAL CONTROLS CORP

2460 W 11TH AVE
Eugene

EVERYDAY ELECTRICAL SVC INC

3076 Whitbeck Blvd
Eugene

Exquisite Designs

47332 Sterdley Falls

Four J's Appliance Repair

PO Box 26431
Eugene

G. Christianson Construction

644 NW 4th St
Corvallis

Gary's Electric Service LLC

PO Box 71002
Springfield

Gaspro Inc

7603 SE Lounsberry Ln
Portland

GRAYBAR ELECTRIC CO

2358 W 7TH PL
Eugene

HAMPTON PT INC

85507 HIGHWAY 99 S
Eugene

Harding Electric Inc

3039 Wintercreek Dr
Eugene

Hegarty Plumbing Services Llc

P.O. Box 26112
Eugene

Hill Electric Inc

42335 Washington St

HOUSEMASTER

Beaverton

In Your Home

16869 SW 65th Ave
Lake Oswego

INDEPENDENT ELECTRIC CONTRS

1907 GARDEN AVE
Eugene

INTERSTATE BATTERIES OF OREGON

545 CONGER ST
Eugene

J & S Construction & Investment

PO Box 1740
Springfield

J B ELECTRIC INC

4685 ISABELLE ST
Eugene

Jax Metro Electric

394 E 12th Ave
Eugene

John Lee Construction

221 S 52 Place
Springfield

JOSEPH BUNCH ELECTRIC

2525 WILLONA DR
Eugene

K S ELECTRIC & CONSULTANTS INC

28 W Q ST
Springfield

KALEN ELECTRIC CO

1504 W 2ND AVE
Eugene

Kent R. Frey Construction

1574 Coburg Rd. #262
Eugene

Kent R. Frey Construction

1574 Coburg Rd. #262
Eugene

Lan Tel Services Inc

204 A Jefferson St
Eugene

LANTZ ELECTRIC INC

34531 HIGHWAY 58
Eugene

Larry Hudson Contracting

17455 Blue Heron Road
Lake Oswego

LITE ELECTRIC SVC

1901 E BEACON DR
Eugene

Lucas GeneraL Contractors

PO Box 72026
Eugene

Lynn's Electric Co

PO Box A
Fall Creek

MC CRACKEN MOTOR FREIGHT

2120 W 7TH PL
Eugene

Mercurio's Heating & A/C

4001 S Union Ave

METROFUELING

29394 AIRPORT RD
Eugene

MIKE'S HEATING & AIR

113 41ST AVE SE
Albany

MILL SUPPLY CORP

584 WILSON ST
Eugene

My Electrician Inc

32316 Riley Ln
Cottage Grove

My Favorite Handyman LLC

3435 Oregon Ave
Springfield

Neil Kelly Design Build Remodeling

804 N Alberta St
Portland

NEW WAY ELECTRIC

4202 W 6TH AVE
Eugene

Nicholls Home Restorations

32262 Goddard Ln
Cottage Grove

O 4 ELECTRIC

2625 WARE LN
Eugene

One-Stop Property Maintenance

P.O. Box 41115
Eugene

OREGON ELECTRIC SVC

PO Box 2237
Eugene

PACIFIC CONTROL SUPPLY INC

665 CONGER ST
Eugene

PATRICK'S ELECTRIC

120 MONROE ST
Eugene

Paul Cottle Construction LLC.

4420 NE 54th Ave
Portland

PETER STOPPANI

987 FAYETTE AVE
Eugene

Polaris Electrical, Inc

334 Brookside Dr
Eugene

Premier Electric

PO Box P
Corvallis

Pro-Time Landscape Management

898 Echo Hollow rd
Eugene

RAVEN INDUSTRIAL CONTROL

650 E 32ND AVE
Eugene

Revolution Electric

480 Shelley St.
Springfield

Reynolds Electric

2175 W 2nd Ave
Eugene

RICH'S GERMAN MOTORWERKS

111 MAIN ST
Springfield

RITE ELECTRIC INC

PO BOX 842
Creswell

Rite Way Electric Inc

2904 Three Lakes Rd SE
Albany

Robert Christian Construction

87644 Rhododendron Dr.
Florence

ROCKWELL AUTOMATION

1710 WILLOW CREEK CIR
Eugene

ROSE ELECTRIC

4065 WEST 11TH
Eugene

SCOFIELD ELECTRIC CO

PO Box 2765
Eugene

Shelby's Auto Electric

4747 W 11th Ave
Eugene

Signature Kitchen & Design Inc

80082 Sears Rd
Cottage Grove

SIR FIX-A-LOT, LLC

12612 NE 156TH PL

Sprinter Electric Inc

PO Box 471
Creswell

SQUARE D

2791 Oak Aly Ste 2
Eugene

Sunlight Solar Energy, Inc. (Portland)

402 S. Beavercreek Rd
Oregon City

SUNSET ELECTRIC INC

34706 SEAVEY LOOP RD
Eugene

Superior Electric

157 E Hatton Ave
Eugene

The Heat Pump Store

12037 NE Sumner St
Portland

TLC Handyman Services

505 Throne Dr #281
Eugene

TRENCHLESS PIPE SVC INC

112 E 10TH AVE
Eugene

UNGER CONSTRUCTION LLC

2130 W. 19th Place
Eugene

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WEILAND ELECTRIC

870 W 2ND AVE
Eugene

Join Angie's List to get the best local reviews in Eugene.

What Does My Membership Include?
  • Instant access to reviews for 700+ services
  • Exclusive service discounts - up to 70 percent off!
  • Top-notch support from our live call center
How does Angie's List work?
1. Say you need a Electrician
2. Angie's List has tons of detailed, local reviews.
3. Find a winner, and book them.
4. Angie's List is there to resolve any issues.
CBS
Good Morning America
Fox News
USA Today
The Wall Street Journal
MSN money