Bend Electricians

in Bend, OR

122
Electricians are
in Bend

50
Electricians in Bend
are top rated

A
Rated by
Fredda V.
"They were willing to work withing my budget. Came to my house and recommended what the size heaters to install in each room. they made a date for installation. Then the called and" said that they could come a week earlier if I was available. The company is very professional and very, very nice. The installer was very professional and cleaned after each installation. I would recommend this company to any one wanting honest and complete work.
A
Rated by
Jonathan S.
"
Jr. did all the work for us and we could not be happier. We installed a new Kitchen,(
Jr worked with all of our contractors to make it" come together cleanly.) Lighting and electrical upgrades in 2 renovated bathrooms and numerous circuitry upgrades throughout the house, GFE's etc.
Jr was prompt, easy to connect with, and gave us the information we needed to make informed decisions. The price was the best that I found after speaking with numerous electricians on Angie's list, and even starting with an electrician that we liked, but was a solid $1000.00 more expensive for the same job that
did for us.
B
Rated by
Manuel D.
"I called the contractor and I told them specifically what I want done. It is to convert the plug-in socket that lights my front gate lamps to a switch. Main reason is for convenience" since we just bought the house 2 years ago and the plug-in socket is mounted way too high in our garage you need a latter to plug-in and light the lamps. They stated the deal does not include REWIRING and added it'll cost lot more to do that. I am not sure if my project requires rewiring so decided to have this job cancelled. I regret this deal did not get thru but there is always that next opportunity. Thanks.

Local Articles in Bend

Winter guide

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Ryan Electric owner Pat Ryan says he always makes sure clients inspect his work and are satisfied before he leaves a job. (Photo courtesy of Brody Ryan)

Hiring an Electrician

Since the days of Thomas Edison, the practical applications of electricity have become exponentially more complex. Becoming an electrician requires extensive training and continuing education to keep up with technology that changes constantly. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

One LED can last up to 50,000 hours, the equivalent of 42 60-watt incandescent bulbs. (Photo by Hugh Vandivier)
Lighting, Electrical

LED lights are quickly becoming popular choices for interior home lighting, but can they really compete with incandescent bulbs? Are there any downsides to using light-emitting diodes?

Outdoor holiday lighting, LED holiday lighting
Electrical, Holiday Decorating, Garage Doors

When hanging holiday lights, the safest power source is the nearest outlet. If that’s not possible, look for an appropriate extension cord or a power stake.

Hugh Vandivier
Lighting, Electrical

Those familiar incandescent bulbs are being phased out, replaced by new, more energy-efficient bulbs. But what's behind compact fluorescent lights (CFLs) and light-emitting diodes (LEDs)?

Electrical work is extremely dangerous, so make sure you hire a licensed pro for work around the home.
Electrical

If you discover that you have an old Federal Pacific breaker box, a faulty circuit breaker or an outdated fuse box, how much can you expect to pay to have a qualified electrician replace it?

Angie's Answers

?
Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

?

An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

?

If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrical reviews in Bend

A

Rating
The repair went very well. Bill was very professional and discussed the entire process with me in
Bend Electricians Provider Name Locked
's terms.I will definitely use
Bend Electricians Provider Name Locked
Electric for all of my future electrical needs.
- Germaine D.
A

Rating
Bend Electricians Provider Name Locked
arrived on time, quickly gave me an estimate, and he started work. He informed me that code required that the new wired lights required an arc fault breaker, and he tested and supplied the new breaker. He did the trouble-shooting for the service switch and told me he did not have the part on hand. I offered to make a run for it, and he moved on to the boiler circuit. By the time I returned with the correct switch for the service cutoff, he was just finishing up the surge suppressor installation.
He completed all tasks, cleaned up his work areas and tested everything. Could not be more pleased.
- MARK H.
A

Rating
very quick response. He found the reason for no power to the garage door opener and lights and quickly fixed it. He also moved
Bend Electricians Provider Name Locked
outlet, cleaned mess and now
Bend Electricians Provider Name Locked
is flush to wall. very professional too.
- Peter B.
A

Rating
It was not part of his service package but he took a steel brush and worked hard to get the hole unclogged. He spent at least 30 minutes and didn't try to charge anything extra. I would recommend them and use them again
- Eva P.
C

Rating
Purchased $114 / 2 hours work Big Deal on Aug 22nd and suggested 3 dates in August. Did not hear back until 9/11 - was told they have a backlog until mid November. Check their availability before purchasing this if you are in any hurry. They were polite and told me to talk to Angies List to get a refund which we did.
- Frank L.
A

Rating
You could not find a better contractor than
Bend Electricians Provider Name Locked
, the owner of
Bend Electricians Provider Name Locked
Improvements. He is a Gem of Gems. He took us shopping for all that was needed and this was a great relief for us. He makes great suggestions when asked. Performs the work in a timely manner and to your great satisfaction.
Bend Electricians Provider Name Locked
is definitely the contractor to choose.
- Tina O.
A

Rating
I have been turning to them for my handyman needs for three years now. They are professional, prompt, competent in their work, respectful of my home and quick!
- Matthew F.

All Electricians in Bend, OR

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A J ELECTRIC

1391 8th ave #1

A-1 Electrical Contractors

19159 Kiowa Rd
Bend

AKUMAL SANDS INC

60875 GOSNEY RD
Bend

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave SE

All Phase Electric Service

38 NW Greeley Ave
Bend

ALLIED MECHANICAL & ELECTRICAL

63575 OLD DESCHUTES RD
Bend

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

APPLIED INDUSTRIAL TECH INC

924 SE WILSON AVE
Bend

ARROWHEAD ELECTRIC LLC

2471 SW VALLEYVIEW DR
Redmond

Baxter Electric

PO Box 8599
Bend

BEN-TECH ELECTRICAL CONTRACTOR

60611 RIDGE HTS
Bend

BEND ELECTRIC INC

63349 NELS ANDERSON RD
Bend

BEND MECHANICAL

65175 N HIGHWAY 97
Bend

BILL'S ELECTRIC

635 SE BUSINESS WAY
Bend

Blue Sky Electric

3468 NW Denali Ln
Bend

BOELENS ELECTRIC

1153 NW Knoxville Blvd
Bend

Brabham Electric, LLC

PO Box 123
Carlton

BYP Bryan Young Plumbing

380 SE Bridgeford Blvd
Bend

C & G ELECTRIC

65310 SWALLEY RD
Bend

CAMERON ELECTRIC

1891 NE CLIFF DR
Bend

CARTRIDGE WORLD

1055 NW NEWPORT AVE
Bend

CASCADE ELECTRIC SVC INC

19555 TUMALO RESERVOIR RD
Bend

CASCADE HYDRO-AIR

147 SE MCKINLEY AVE
Bend

Cedar Electric & Construction, Inc

2356 Broadway St
North Bend

Central Oregon Power Pros

614 NW 19th Pl
Redmond

CHET'S ELECTRIC INC

106 SE EVERGREEN AVE
Redmond

COASTWIDE CONSTRUCTION

PO BOX 891
Pacific City

Corky Wray Construction

P.O. Box 5413
Bend

Crowder TW Electric Co Inc

220 W Cascade Ave
Sisters

D WOLF ELECTRIC

58 SW AUNE ST
Bend

DAVENPORT POWER CO

20756 High Desert Ct Ste 6
Bend

DELTA ELECTRIC SVC

63903 E QUAIL HAVEN DR
Bend

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

DO ALL MAINTENANCE INC

2024 BROADVIEW ST
Eugene

Electric Earth

61354 Stardrift Dr
Bend

Electric Repairs Bend Oregon

1046 NW Wall St
Bend

Elite Electric LLC

62987 Plateau Dr
Bend

Exquisite Designs

47332 Sterdley Falls

G. Christianson Construction

644 NW 4th St
Corvallis

Genie Electric

1410 NW Kingston Ave
Bend

George Morlan Plumbing Supply

5529 SE Foster Rd
Portland

H 2 Handy Pro

61535 S Hwy 97
Bend

Harmony Contracting

1348 NE Zachary St
Hillsboro

Hawkins Electric

P.O. Box 8282
Bend

HESTER ELECTRICAL SVC

2511 NW GOODWILLIE CT
Bend

HHD ELECTRIC LLC

63025 O B RILEY RD
Bend

HI TORQUE ELECTRIC

PO Box 6752
Bend

HIGHGRADE ELECTRIC

25451 ALFALFA MARKET RD
Bend

HOGAN TELCOM

21636 PALOMA DR
Bend

HOLLIDAY INDUSTRIES INC

24890 Alfalfa Market Rd
Bend

imPULSE Electric, llc

PO Box 123
Carlton

INDUSTRIAL SPECIALTIES

1375 NE 2ND ST
Bend

J Construction

13059 109th Ave NE

Jacobs Heating & Air Conditioning, Inc.

4474 SE Milwaukie Ave
Portland

K T ELECTRIC INC

PO BOX 7365
Bend

KELLY ELECTRIC

PO BOX 7302
Bend

Kercher Electric LLC

1598 NE Wells Acres Rd
Bend

KUNERT ELECTRIC

200 NE CHANNON AVE
Roseburg

Kyle Electric Inc

P O Box 410
North Bend

LONE STAR ELECTRIC INC

15011 RIVERLOOP DR W
Bend

M & W ELECTRIC INC

63027 PLATEAU DR
Bend

MACDONALD MILLER

7717 DETROIT AVE SW

Mid Oregon Electrical Services Inc

20380 Donkey Sled Rd
Bend

MIDSTATE ELECTRIC COOP INC

16755 FINLEY BUTTE RD
La Pine

Mighty Mike's Handyman Services LLC.

452 Scott St S.
Monmouth

Millenium Electric Construction Inc

19430 NW Smith Rock Way
Terrebonne

MILLENNIUM ELECTRIC CONSTRUCT

19430 NW Smith Rock Way
Terrebonne

MOTOR COACH SALES OF OREGON

62955 BOYD ACRES RD
Bend

Mr. Fix It Company

3880 NW Xavier Ave
Redmond

Neil Kelly Design Build Remodeling

804 N Alberta St
Portland

O'DELL ELECTRIC INC

PO BOX 9145
Bend

out west electric

3727 sw parrish ln.
Powell Butte

PACIFIC LIGHTING SVC

20063 BADGER RD
Bend

Patrick Power & Light

2933 Northeast Bluebell Lane
Bend

Paul Cottle Construction LLC.

4420 NE 54th Ave
Portland

PEACOCK ELECTRIC INC

1244 NW HARTFORD AVE
Bend

Peak Granite

2395 Sunrise St

Pillar Electric Inc

20680 Carmen Loop
Bend

PONDEROSA ELECTRIC

55225 LAZY RIVER DR
Bend

PORTLAND GENERAL ELECTRIC

63002 POWELL BUTTE HWY
Bend

Powder River Electric

2625 2nd St
Baker City

POWER SOURCE ELECTRIC

60091 CINDER BUTTE RD
Bend

QUALITY BUILDERS ELECTRIC INC

615 SE GLENWOOD DR
Bend

R L Gibson Co

1900 Fowler St

RACE AUTO CARE

416 SE Jackson Street
Redmond

Reese Electric

1750 Sherman Ave
North Bend

Rennie Homes

PO Box 9518
Bend

ROLLING WHEEL CREATIONS

59756 CALGARY LOOP
Bend

Scott’s Plumbing Company Inc

1924 Dutch Valley Dr

SEVEN PEAKS ELECTRIC INC

62988 NE Layton Ave
Bend

SKYLINE ELECTRIC

60812 PARK VISTA CIR
Bend

SPECTRUM BUILDING AND RESTORATION

90 SE BRIDGEFORD BLVD
Bend

SUN DOG CONSTRUCTION

Mt. Tabor. SE Portland.
Portland

Sunlight Solar Energy, Inc. (Portland)

402 S. Beavercreek Rd
Oregon City

Superior Automotive Technologies

62980 Boyd Acres Rd., Bldg. B West
Bend

T W CROWDER ELECTRIC CO INC

67035 FRYREAR RD
Bend

Terrebonne Electric

8700 N W 2nd St
Terrebonne

The Heat Pump Store

12037 NE Sumner St
Portland

The Home Surgeon LLC

2845 NE Canyon Park Dr
Bend

THREE SISTERS ELECTRIC

PO Box 9237
Bend

TOMCO ELECTRIC

PO Box 6388
Bend

TOP NOTCH ELECTRIC INC

63004 NE 18TH ST
Bend

Trail Blazing Corporation

PO Box 703
Cornelius

TRI-STATE ELECTRIC INC

7790 W MOSSY CUP ST

WADDELL ELECTRICAL MECHANICS

375 NE BURNSIDE AVE
Bend

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WERK ELECTRIC

65190 HIGH RIDGE DR
Bend

WRIGHT ONE ELECTRIC

PO BOX 7335
Bend

YES ELECTRIC

60850 WINDSOR DR
Bend

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