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A
"March &
were professional in explaining the process and answered all questions upfront. On the day of the service, the technicians went" over every step and addressed all concerns. When the technicians completed the job we could feel the difference right away since it was on the south side of the house. The old fiberglass insulation could not create a tight enough seal to keep the roof heat out of the second floor. I will use March &
for all my future spray foam needs.

-Jason K.

A
"We realized we had an issue when we were moving items out of our attic. The insulation was pulled down in spots, we saw droppings, and we realized we had a problem!" I immediately pulled up Angie's List to find providers to help us clean up the mess and install new insulation.
was super responsive and called me right back.
, a tech from the company came on time, inspected, took pictures and discussed options. We were freaking out and concerned at the damage.
talked us off the ledge and explained what we could expect, what was entailed in the cleanup and after the work was completed. On the day of our appointment,
, the project manager,
and the rest of the team showed up on time and ready to get started. Although the company would have moved our possessions out of the attic as part of the process, we ordered a dumpster ahead of time and pulled everything out of the attic before the team arrived. We used this time as an opportunity to clean out our clutter and repackage items we were moving back to the attic after the cleanup. We wanted to ensure everything was vermin free and that items were moved to clean/new plastic storage containers. The team was extremely friendly, efficient and professional. The process was completed around 1PM.
walked me through the work and demonstrated areas where they needed to "rodent proof" with steel mesh." The attic smelled of the solution that they sprayed and new insulation, but no smell of animal droppings or urine. The team then moved most of the items we had repackaged back to the attic. We deferred moving some of the items as there were some spots still wet from the solution that they sprayed to disinfect and we wanted to allow some time to dry. The team exceeded my expectations. They were easy to work with, followed up several times and answered all of my issues and concerns. They also provided my insurance company with pictures and information as requested. We called several other companies and although
was not the lowest estimate, they were the most comprehensive, and are run by a family. The employees who came to my home were very professional and understood our concerns and worked to help us resolve a very ugly situation. I highly recommend this company!

-Kathleen Z.

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Local Articles in Stillwater

Avoid Ice Dams With Proper Attic Insulation

An ice dam can cause serious problems to your roof without proper insulation.

By properly insulating your attic you can keep warm air from escaping and save money on your energy bills. (Photo courtesy of Vinay S. of North Brunswick, New Jersey)
Insulation

Hot air rises … but good insulation can keep your energy costs from doing the same thing.

Better air quality, quieter living spaces, comfort and better health are all reasons to reconsider your insulation choices. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Roseanne J. of Seattle)
Insulation

Not just for new construction, learn how foam insulation can be placed inside existing walls to make your home more comfortable.

While traditional fiberglass insulation is affordable and efficient, injection foam insulation can offer even more benefits. (Photo by Summer Galyan)
Insulation

Insulation isn't sexy, but it can keep you cool at night.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

Angie's Answers

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If you go the Better Business Bureau website you can see that the company has only had two complaints in the last 18 months and that they have both been resolved.  The company has an A+ rating.  This is not something you can buy.

 

There are genuine reviews on many 3rd party online review sites including AngiesList and the Better Business Bureau.  Simply do a Google search for "Smart Energy Today Reviews".

 

Sol Blanket Insulation acts as a radiant barrier, insulation and a vapor barrier.  It is not intended to replace traditional insulation but in fact compliments it and adds to it's ability to keep cool/hot air (depending on the season) in the home when the envelope of the home is properly sealed.  

 

Every attic is different and there are many other components that must be considered.  You mentioned an attic fan as well.  The heat that is radiated away from the ceiling by the Sol-Blanket Insulation is pushed out of the attic with an attic fan.  The US Department of Energy states that radiant barriers do work and suggest they be installed by professionals.

 

As with any product by any company if the product is not installed properly and other factors (attic fan, caulking and sealing, etc...) are not addressed then it will not be as effective.

?

A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.

?

Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

?
Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
?

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake

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Insulation reviews in Stillwater

D

Rating
I contracted with them for 6" open cell foam insulation to be sprayed onto the side walls of my shop. They finished and left the bill taped to the door. Upon inspection when I got home from work I could see about 50-75% of the walls only had about 4" of insulation. I called
Stillwater Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
the next morning and he sounded irritated that I didn't think it was good enough but he did send someone up to fix the problem. He said I would need to be there after he was done to approve it, I agreed, They called when they said they were done so I went out to inspect and they had only touched up a few places. The guy argued that I didn't need all that insulation and it wasn't an exact science and if you overfilled it you would just have to cut it off and with the knife they used it would dip in an inch and a half so I wouldn't be any better off it would just waste insulation. He also said I had 7" in places. I have 2x6 studs with 3/4 fur strips the tin is screwed to so the walls are 6 and 1/4" thick. Well he thought the three 3/4" ribs on a 3' wide piece of tin used an inch of insulation thickness!! He finally agreed to fix any areas that I pointed out. I showed him several. I had to get back to work and gave him a check. When I got home it wasn't much better than when I left. I spent 2 hours the next Saturday morning cleaning up the insulation that he didn't sweep up. I am considering contacting someone else to come in and finish the job.
- Rick B.
A

Rating
Excellent job. The crew was here for 2 days cleaning out the entire space and treating surfaces for mold/fungus. They returned for another 2.5 days to install the liner. The
Stillwater Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
is now totally encapsulated and looks fantastic.
- Deborah O.
C

Rating
After a month after the house was looked at by the provider, I still have not received the quote. If the work is of now interest or can not be performed for any reason, the provider should share this information and do not let people hanging.

- Dominique B.
A

Rating
Stillwater Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and two co-workers sealed and insulated my attic. They used aluminum flashing and high-temperature silicone caulk to seal gaps around the chimney flue, and used expanding foam or caulk to seal the cracks and openings around plumbing vent pipes and electrical wires. They installed a solar attic fan in the gable vent. They extended the rafter vents, blew in additional loose fill insulation to achieve R38 (recommended for Zone 4 Asheville NC) and added an attic stair insulator.
Stillwater Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
,
Stillwater Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and Bill were very courteous and extremely professional and knowledgeable. I would highly recommend
Stillwater Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
.


- Julee V.
A

Rating
AIS was very professional and always on time. We handled most communication via text and email and everything went very smoothly.. Great to work with, fast service and professional! Would highly recommend to others.
- James K.
N

Rating
I was very impressed with the work that was done and how hard the crew worked. They showed up on time and worked hard the entire time. They respected the house and made sure to keep it nice and clean. I give them a 10/10!
- Dave M.
A

Rating
They were very professional, they helped me move some things out the crawlspace. They were early, just like they said they would be, and cleaned up after themselves. The owner came out with the crew, and I was very impressed with the respect they had for my home.
- Cornelia J.
A

Rating
I tore down a section of my house and rebuilt it - new construction. I had my attic (i.e., roof deck, attic side walls and end walls) insulated by
Stillwater Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
, with open cell spray foam. I got multiple estimates from several different companies. While
Stillwater Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was not the cheapest, I went with them because of their knowledge of the process, their professionalism dealing with me, and their input on other areas of my house, including
Stillwater Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
pipe insulation and tips on insulating the side walls of the living area.
Stillwater Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was very patient with me as I was obtaining other estimates, and always answered all my questions promptly. When "job day" came, he and his crew showed up on time. They were all very personable and most importantly they did a great job, including cleanup. I would definitely recommend
Stillwater Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
to others.
- Carolyn S.

Insulation Contractors in Stillwater, OK

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Bonds Construction

18901 Lewis Rd
Wanette

French Construction

510 S Spurgeon
Altus

Grand Lake Construction

31199 Crace Ct
Afton

Handyman Hurley LLC

32 Bella Vista Lane
Shawnee

He and I Construction, Inc.

678 SW BISHOP RD
Lawton

high performance insulation

990704 s 3480 rd
Sparks

HMH Construction

4219 Acorn Rd
Tishomingo

J A M Construction LLC

1801 Gemini St
Altus

Jack Nelson Service Experts

9223 S Garnett
Broken Arrow

Oklahoma Builders

712 N. 2nd
Duncan

Perfection Roofing Inc

4445 S 91St E Ave
Tulsa

Roofscapes Exteriors LLC

15010 S Grant St
Bixby

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

spray foam insulation

990704 s 3480 rd
Sparks

Statewide Roofing Inc

5001 E I-240 Service Rd.
Oklahoma City

Stephenson Builds

502 West Ranch
Stillwater

Stolhand Heating and AC

413 South 3rd
Ponca City

Storm Master Inc.

6444 N.W. Expressway
Oklahoma City

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Weatherization Experts Inc

PO Box 1451
Newcastle

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Stillwater Zip Codes

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