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A
"
showed up on time and as instructed (my property is a little confusing). He was professional, friendly and thorough, and explained everything" he did during the testing. After we received the results he was helpful and responsive. Overall, the company made a potentially bad experience as pleasant as possible.

-Julie K.

A
"Excellent in every way. No intervention was needed and the technician was professional and personable. I would definitely call them again if I had concerns about water damage or mold.

-Nancy B.

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Local Articles in Edmond

Mold

Nothing strikes fear like the sight of black mold. Learn about household mold, mold symptoms, how to test for mold and the best methods for mold removal.

A cold-air return duct work for an HVAC system
Mold Testing & Remediation, Air Duct Cleaning

Worried about mold in your air ducts? Learn how to test for mold and what you can expect to pay for air duct cleaning.

carpet rolls in front of a home
Water & Smoke Damage, Carpet Cleaning, Mold Testing & Remediation

Flooding, plumbing leaks can lead to harmful mold growth on and underneath your home's flooring.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

Many homes in humid climates are susceptible to mold growth on furniture, clothing and even structural walls if there is inadequate ventilation, says Belk. (Photo courtesy of Gold Coast Flood Restorations)
Mold Testing & Remediation

Long-term exposure to certain types of toxic molds can be catastrophic. One highly rated provider shares four easy tips to prevent mold from invading your home.

Angie's Answers

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Mold in a basement is a common problem. My company helps people with this every day. Some of the answers you received were helpful but not all the information is correct. First, you need to eliminate the two main ingrediants that mold needs to survive. The first one is water intrusion. This is a must. I am assuming you have no water intrusion as you make no mention. The second componant that needs to be eliminated is moisture. Moisture is also humidity. Basements need to be kept airtight in the summer months. Some folks have posted that you need air flow in your basement. Nothing could be furthur from the truth. When you open any windows for example, not one micron of air goes out of the basement, Warm humid air is sucked into the basement. Houses suck air into the basement and it meets the cool surfaces and skyrockets humidity. The windows must be kept closed and a dehumidification device installed to ensure humidity stays below 60% humidity. The dehumidifier should be energy star rated and purchasing a seperate humidity guage is a must to monitor the unit's progress. We like to keep our customer's basements at 50% humidity. This eliminates the smell that is active mold spore growth. Once the water and humidity is brought under control. Remove the organic materials that have mold on them. Walls, sheetrock and studs that have been affected. Follow the advice of previous posts as you must ensure that you do not affect the rest of the home. Once removed, install new walls using as much inorganic material as possible. We also install vapor barrier over the walls and seal the floors to stopwater vapor transmission into the basement. Poly plastic is not a acceptable vapor barrier. It is not "zero-perm" and will still allow moisture transmission. It will also crack and break into pieces over the years. A PVC liner rated "zero-perm" is the correct product in this application. Depending how large the basement is and if it is sectioned off will determine the dehumidifier strength. We use the Santa Fe line of dehidifiers as they are super energy efficiant and work like a dehumidifier on steriods. I hope this helps and I wish you the best in Basement Health!
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Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?

 

Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?

 

Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:

 

- Install a vapor barrier across the floor.  Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.

- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.

- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.

 

 

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When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.

You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.

You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.

Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.

Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.

I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.

Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).

The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.

Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.

The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.

Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.

Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.

Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.

While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?

If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -

http://www.google.com/images?client=safari&rls=en&q=house+IR+scan&oe=UTF-8&hl=en&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ei=rhfRUci4F-TbigLghIHIAg&ved=0CDcQsAQ

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Call in the professionals.

There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.

High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls.  Any mold you remove will just keep coming back.  The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed.  If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function.  For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.

I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning.  They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working.  If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area.  It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system.  A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well.  Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.

Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.

Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls.  This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out.  This is a last ditch idea.  The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile).  Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill.  Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.

A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.

Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold.  In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures).  Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.

Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work.  The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly).  Good luck.

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Mold Removal reviews in Edmond

A

Rating
Mr.
Edmond Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
correctly identified and safely removed the source of mold in our home.
He also identified other concerns such as dryer lint in the attic (a potential fire hazard), poor insulation and inadequate and dirty air conditioner ducts. He recommended gutters around the front of the house to keep
Edmond Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
from eroding the pavers on our driveway (as well as keeping the
Edmond Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
away from the slab).
In the months since his visit, we have had our ductwork replaced, the dryer lint removed, new insulation added and gutters installed. The room that contained the source of the mold has been remodeled. we've had no problems with mold since then. We have also benefitted from lower heating and cooling costs as well as the cessation of erosion of our pavers. Mr.
Edmond Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
's ability to accurately evaluate the "big picture" and make specific recommendations for intervention has resulted in a measurably better quality of life for us. His professionalism and expertise is second to none. I recommend him without hesitation.
- John R.
A

Rating
It was great.
Edmond Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
responded to my voicemail within 15 minutes and came out the same day, right when he said he would. He was thorough and took the time to explain everything he was doing. I had a mold inspection in advance of buying a home and his inspection, which did not find anything problematic, put my mind at ease. I highly recommend him and would use him again.
- Kevin R.
A

Rating
Bill was very thorough and knowledgeable. He took the time to inspect my entire basement and answer my questions. I believe that he gave me honest answers, and I would definitely use him in the future.
- Jeffrey D.
A

Rating
Everyone we dealt with was courteous & professional. Installation was day we ordered, with installer being very professional & going out of his way to protect our property. I would definitely recommend
Edmond Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
to everyone in the future.
- Steve J.
D

Rating
Hard to communicate, ask questions about the estimate and nobody wants to respond, just keep on saying will get back, but never happened. And on Wednesday I was told today is the last day of the service for 750 dollars of drying service, I have to pay more for the rentals of technicians visit, 75 dollars per day for humidifier, 25 dollars for air fan, etc., since the there are still some places show moisture, nobody told me the policy until the last day, given the fact they came in every single day from Sunday to Wednesday, not happy with the communication. Also one technician turned off the dehumidifier for one day during the service, but they don't care since it's not their house got flooded. So they left without fully drying up the basement. They opened some wood from the wall to dry, and never bother to put them back, so it's a mess now.
- Zhidong L.
N

Rating
Rich and Jayce provide me with the the best customer service I have ever experienced. Very thorough, knowledgeable, supportive and caring. I feel like they are treating me like a real person, not just number. When I've followed up with phone calls asking questions, they took the time to answer them. Rich is coordinating my mold remediation with the apartment complex to ensure it gets done right. He truly cares about people and their health. If you ever have a need for this type of service, I HIGHLY recommend Rich and Jayce. It doesn't get any better than that!!!
- virginia T.
B

Rating
I had been having issues with my battery powered Basement Watchdog backup sump pump continually beeping and bought the $49 on Angie's list. They came out looked it over and called the manufacturer who said the charger was bad and it would be under $50 for a new one.
- Terry A.
A

Rating
Couldn't be happier with the service and recommendations. The opposite of a heavy sell. Gave me tips on how to deal with he problems myself. Quick to get back to me and very professional. Highly recommend.
- Suzanne K.

Mold Removal Experts in Edmond, OK

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Access Roofing & Restoration, LLC

1411 Linwood Blvd.
Oklahoma City

Accurate Home Inspections, Inc.

1300 South Morgan Road
Mustang

AEA Environmental Services

330 W Gray St
Norman

AirMD

7700 Congress Ave

Allensbc.com

1077 Canary Ave

Allergy Control Duct Cleaning

11529 Queenbury Ct
Yukon

BioSweep of Oklahoma

12400 N Santa Fe Ave
Oklahoma City

Blackmon Mooring

1101 Enterprise Ave
Oklahoma City

Butler Restoration

400 S Vermont
Oklahoma City

Cornerstone Chem Dry

1821 Belt Line Rd

Cox Environmental

10026-A South Mingo Road
Tulsa

Dickson's Painting

3816 SW 38th
Oklahoma City

Dirty Deeds

209 Morningside Drive
Yukon

Duct Squad INC

Wilshire Blvd G5
Oklahoma City

Ed's Painting

305 E Industrial Rd

Environmental Solutions Specialists, LLC

9706 Skylark Rd
Oklahoma City

Express Restoration

12301 Windsong Way
Oklahoma City

Handyman Hurley LLC

32 Bella Vista Lane
Shawnee

Handyman Matters Of Oklahoma City

230 W Wilshire Blvd
Oklahoma City

Hire A Hubby

11711 S. Czech Hall Road
Mustang

J and J Roofing and Remodeling

12101 north macarthur blvd
Oklahoma City

Lake Home Inspection

2127 Garden St
Ponca City

MICROLAB NORTHWEST

7609 140Th Pl NE

Moldlab

2501 Mayes Road

NuCon Services, Inc.

4215 S 33rd West Ave
Tulsa

Oklahoma Steam Clean & Restoration

3621 S Hattie Ave
Oklahoma City

OxyDry Restoration

6200 N. Industrial Blvd.
Edmond

Paint OKC Inc.

Oklahoma City

PHOENIX RESTORATION

14709 Bristol Park Blvd
Edmond

RemodelPro

4305 N Libby Ave
Warr Acres

RIDGID CONSULTING & CONSTRUCTION, CORP

2632 W I 44 Service Rd
Oklahoma City

Rolyn Companies, Inc.

5706 Frederick Ave

SAFETY TECH

1414 SW 89TH ST
Oklahoma City

SHERLOCK HOMES INSPECTION SERVICE INC

PO BOX 32913
Oklahoma City

SIDE JOBS, LLC

Oklahoma City

THUNDER RESTORATION GROUP OKC

1700 N MACARTHUR BOULEVARD
Oklahoma City

Thunder Ducts

3921 NW 22nd St
Oklahoma City

Trilink Restoration Group LLC

3300 N Santa Fe Ave
Oklahoma City

Weatherization Experts Inc

PO Box 1451
Newcastle

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