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A
"Prompt and profesional without the "attitude" of some professionals. Liked talking with him he was very knowledgable and personable. We will be using" him again in the future for a solar fan and attic insulation. He gave me a great price quote while he was out. We even had some confusing about the address and when he found out I was actually next door he came back with no questions asked, just a great company to use.

-Clarissa M.

A
"Utilized the "Big Deal"; provider called within hours and offered very flexible dates and times. Technician showed up on time, very professional and polite." He had all the tools he needed, explained what he would do and what to expect. Did through inspection of insulation, provided recommendations and then moved on to see outside of building. Gave good recommendations to prevent water from coming into building. He wasnt pushy at all and instead when I asked if I should get any further work done he said no need ;) For under $50 this is superb service and gives you great feeling especially when you have no issues what so ever from insulation, attic, basement perspectives.. Super recommend!!!

-Vemuri Bhaskar G.

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Local Articles in Edmond

Avoid ice dams with proper attic insulation

Do you have icicles forming on your eaves and gutters and ice collecting on your roof? An ice dam can cause serious problems without proper insulation.

While traditional fiberglass insulation is affordable and efficient, injection foam insulation can offer even more benefits. (Photo by Summer Galyan)
Insulation

Insulation isn't sexy, but it can keep you cool at night.

Better air quality, quieter living spaces, comfort and better health are all reasons to reconsider your insulation choices. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Roseanne J. of Seattle)
Insulation

Not just for new construction, learn how foam insulation can be placed inside existing walls to make your home more comfortable.

By properly insulating your attic you can keep warm air from escaping and save money on your energy bills. (Photo courtesy of Vinay S. of North Brunswick, New Jersey)
Insulation

Hot air rises … but good insulation can keep your energy costs from doing the same thing.

Even in cold-weather climates, homes often lack insulation between the finished, occupied portion of the home and the ground. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Paul B. of Bluffton, South Carolina)
Insulation, Energy Efficiency Auditing

Exterior foundation insulation is an often overlooked home improvement. It can help stop drafts, lower energy bills and keep your house warmer during winter.

Angie's Answers

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If you go the Better Business Bureau website you can see that the company has only had two complaints in the last 18 months and that they have both been resolved.  The company has an A+ rating.  This is not something you can buy.

 

There are genuine reviews on many 3rd party online review sites including AngiesList and the Better Business Bureau.  Simply do a Google search for "Smart Energy Today Reviews".

 

Sol Blanket Insulation acts as a radiant barrier, insulation and a vapor barrier.  It is not intended to replace traditional insulation but in fact compliments it and adds to it's ability to keep cool/hot air (depending on the season) in the home when the envelope of the home is properly sealed.  

 

Every attic is different and there are many other components that must be considered.  You mentioned an attic fan as well.  The heat that is radiated away from the ceiling by the Sol-Blanket Insulation is pushed out of the attic with an attic fan.  The US Department of Energy states that radiant barriers do work and suggest they be installed by professionals.

 

As with any product by any company if the product is not installed properly and other factors (attic fan, caulking and sealing, etc...) are not addressed then it will not be as effective.

?

A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.

?

Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

?
Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
?

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake

?

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Insulation reviews in Edmond

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Rating
Triangle was a true partner in our business venture as we upgraded and renovated a 100 year old bed and breakfast.
Edmond Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
who lead the project was there for us every step of the way and each trade from foundation to plumbing and electrical to carpentry and much more exceeded our expectations over the 6 month renovation. We highly recommend Triangle!!
- Teresa S.
A

Rating
At first I was unsure whether to go with open cell or closed cell on a metal roof.I called 3 companys and demanded the owners to come out and explain to me,which is better for me to use .Not only did
Edmond Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
the salesman form
Edmond Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
were the first to respond he also set a date for a consolation. The owner
Edmond Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
came out and explained the answers to all my questions.I kept enterating that I wanted a good job.He told me that his supervisor
Edmond Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
would be on the job from start to finish and he would make sure that all my needs are met.Well ,when
Edmond Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and his guys arrived i was standing on my porch like a drill
Edmond Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
.I told him that i will be watching him like a hawk and i wanted a good job.
Edmond Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
went over every inch of the attic and told me the procedures and the correct way to install the open cell.
Edmond Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and his guys did that.
Edmond Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and his guys were very respectful and professional.Last week I set my a/c at 79 degrees and it would not shut off.this week i set my a/c at 72 and it shuts off for most of the day and its hot.Wow this really works.Now I'm actually can be comfortable in my own house.I feel like i should have done this a long time ago.I feel like sunlight contracting did the best job.They are and will be hard to out perform,and guess what, they beat the other two companies bids.Thanks sunlight contracting.I will tell all my friends and family.
- ann M.
A

Rating
Our home was built in 1972, and had very little in the way of insulation. We wanted to fix that, so we started looking for companies. This company was recommended by
Edmond Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
Energy and was really wonderful to work with.
Edmond Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
came and did the the quote. He was very knowledgeable, professional and made us feel very comfortable. They were scheduling 3 weeks out, but added us to a cancellation list, and we were able to get the insulation installed the very next week! They were very efficient at the job and we are very pleased with the work they did. We would highly recommend them!
- Jessica I.
A

Rating
Edmond Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was early to my house and inspected the roof from the ground. I have a one story home, so the roof is visible. He explained what he observed the next step to complete the job. The worker came to repair the roof and any other damage he noticed. The work was done and he left! I wish he would have talk to me before he left!
- Michael R.
A

Rating
Arrived on time and were extremely courteous and professional the entire time they were here. I have a 2 story home and the master bedroom was quite a bit warmer than other rooms in the house. I was considering modifying my ducting system to provide more A/C to this room but decided to first try adding more insulation. I obtained bids from 3 companies and Attic Insulation was the highest, nearly $1,000 more than my 2 other bids. However, I was impressed that JB,who made the proposal, knew his stuff. As an engineer myself (as was JB) I had many questions and he patiently addressed them all. I had doubts that wrapping the closet with e-shield was anything more than a marketing gimmick. I questioned whether going to R-60 was cost effective vs R-49. I decided that spending about $500 more for R-60 increased the probability of keeping my bedroom cooler. My other 2 bids did not include any special treatment for the closet which already had fiberglass insulation around it. The results have been noticeable. On hot days, the upstairs bedroom is 5-6 degrees cooler than it was before. It makes sleeping at night much more comfortable. I am very pleased with the result and would highly recommend Attic Insulation. This is all they do and they know their business.
- Ken F.
A

Rating
They were really easy to get a hold of. They came and did what they were supposed to do. They cleaned up. They talked to me about any issues. They were able to work with me through a couple of issues that we had.
- Sasha A.
A

Rating
we've used
Edmond Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
's company a few times before and we have always been satisfied. This time is no different He and his crew framed a addition for us and finished the outside roof/siding and inside wiring,insulation, drywall and paint Hardwood floors and trim
- jennifer W.
C

Rating
Existing owner had to replace the roof before we could get our homeloan funded. We picked out the color we wanted, since we were going to be the future owners of the house. Once the work was done, we saw that the new shingles were the wrong color and we called the contractor to see what could be done. He was unconcerned since he had already been paid for the work and expressed no remorse toward us regarding the roof color. We weren't expecting him to really DO anything, but it would have been great if he had expressed some concern. Since he was paid by the previous owner, he had very little reason to concern himself with our satisfaction.
- Kristy T.

Insulation Contractors in Edmond, OK

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

31 W INSULATION CO INC

2918 NE 36TH ST
Oklahoma City

A&R Remodeling

Oklahoma City

Access Roofing & Restoration, LLC

1411 Linwood Blvd.
Oklahoma City

Action Repair & Drywall

709 Robin Hill Rd
Edmond

Advanced Solutions by Able Profressionals

4012 NW 56th Terrace
Oklahoma City

Affordable Construction Co

6401 N Interstate Dr
Norman

Agile Spray Foam Insulation

319 S. Scott St
Oklahoma City

Air Solutions

108 Wellston Park Rd & 9933 E. 61st
Sand Springs & Tulsa Office

Air Tech of Houston LLC

2114 Lou Ellen Ln

Airco Service Inc

11331 E 58th St
Tulsa

Alicia's Mason Repair

29639 Kickapoo Rd
Mcloud

All Gone Services

3113 Hurstview Dr

All Oklahoma Roofing & Construction

14416 Pony Rd
Oklahoma City

All Pro Siding & Windows

7152 Melrose Ln
Oklahoma City

All Services LLC

11723 Springhollow Rd
Oklahoma City

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

Armor Ridge Roofing

319 S. Scott St.
Oklahoma City

Backwoods Wildlife Control

500 South 15th Street
Frederick

Baldwin Enterprises Inc

2105 NE 15th St
Oklahoma City

Borowske Builders Inc

10428 Abbey Rd

Builders Insulation & Bldg Prods

3350 S Purdue St.
Oklahoma City

Bull Heating And Air LLC

8913 N Markwell ave
Oklahoma City

Burnett Inc Windows & Siding

11202 E 61st St
Tulsa

C & S Supply

3350 S Purdue St
Oklahoma City

C and S Roofing

2226 S 92nd E Ave
Tulsa

Caliber Roofing and Restoration

5758 NW Expressway Ste 250
Warr Acres

Cavins Roofing Solutions LLC

2112 Research Park Boulevard
Norman

CHEROKEE PLUMBING LLC

13766 N Lincoln Blvd
Edmond

Cobar Roofing & Construction

1817 N Harrison Ave
Shawnee

Coley Design & Remodel

26 Shady Grove Rd
Mcloud

Comfort Guard Inc

532 N Villa Ave
Oklahoma City

COMFORT INCORPORATED

36 NE 28th Street
Oklahoma City

CONTEMPORARY CONSTRUCTION CO

3824 N MERIDIAN AVE
Oklahoma City

COPELAND CONSTRUCTION INC

4617 N MACARTHUR BLVD
Oklahoma City

Critter Control

3330 N Beach St

Cyber Bridge Marine, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie St

Daniel Manning Construction

8305 NW 107th St
Oklahoma City

Dickson's Painting

3816 SW 38th
Oklahoma City

Discount Remodelers

8005 S Interstate 35
Oklahoma City

Duct Squad INC

Wilshire Blvd G5
Oklahoma City

Eirwin Construction

1620 NW 164th Circle
Edmond

Eisel Roofing & Construction

237 N Broadway
Edmond

evergreen spray foam insulation

403 ne 38th tearrce
Oklahoma City

Executive Heating And Air LLC

801 NW 79th St
Oklahoma City

Exterior Touch Inc.

12610 Waverly RD.

Forty Creek Construction

108 NW 122nd Street
Oklahoma City

Gordon's Service Experts

12354 S Sunnylane
Oklahoma City

Great Value Construction, LLC.

15608 Stepping Stone Ct.
Oklahoma City

Green Home Services

2408 NW 161st
Edmond

Hall Home Services Inc.

3555 Washington Ave E
Piedmont

Handyman Hurley LLC

32 Bella Vista Lane
Shawnee

Handyman Matters Of Oklahoma City

230 W Wilshire Blvd
Oklahoma City

Handymen R Us Inc

3516 SE 48th St
Oklahoma City

Heartland Roofing

7004 NW 63rd St
Bethany

HOME DEPOT

1600 S SOONER RD
Oklahoma City

Hunter Heat & Air, LLC

707 Lake Murray Drive South
Ardmore

HVAC Solutions, LLC

712 Sherwood Lane
Edmond

Interstate Heating & Air Conditioning

9320 Pole Rd
Oklahoma City

J & F Modifications Inc.

1330 N Classen Blvd.
Oklahoma City

J & H Home Improvements LLC

216 E Cedar Dr
Tuttle

Jeremy's Painting

9815 Lloyd Dr
Oklahoma City

Kasik Remodeling

5912 SW 21st St
Oklahoma City

KEN SCOTT CONSTRUCTION

8020 NW 120 ST
Oklahoma City

M & J Insulation

800 Messenger Ln
Moore

Mike White

Edmond

mikes paint and drywall

3404 s goff ave
Oklahoma City

Moores Roofing & Insulation

2601 Purdue Dr
Oklahoma City

Morrow Insulation LLC

424 Highland Pkwy, Suite A
Norman

MUSTANG CONSTRUCTION MSP

317 N PORTLAND
Oklahoma City

Okc Construction & Consulting

21300 Montgomery Drive
Mcloud

Oklahoma Builders

712 N. 2nd
Duncan

Oklahoma Spray Foam

4150 N Hwy 74 St
Crescent

Oklahoma Wall Foam

9060 S Elwood Ave
Tulsa

Perfection Roofing Inc

4445 S 91St E Ave
Tulsa

Phoenix Restoration

14709 Bristol Park Blvd
Edmond

Premier Insulation Inc

Po Box 7928
Edmond

Red River Roofing Companies Inc

746 Enterprise Dr
Edmond

Robert J. Stoops Construction

2621 Lyon Blvd.
Oklahoma City

Roofscapes Exteriors LLC

15010 S Grant St
Bixby

Shearer Heat and Air

907 S Morgan Rd
Mustang

Shelton Painting Inc

7201 14th Ave S

Sooner Construction

415 E Normal St
Tahlquah

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

spray foam insulation

990704 s 3480 rd
Sparks

STA ROOFING

1121 W. HIGHWAY 152, SUITE 105
Mustang

Statewide Roofing Inc

5001 E I-240 Service Rd.
Oklahoma City

Storm Master Inc.

6444 N.W. Expressway
Oklahoma City

Streets Windows and Siding

2001 SW 31st. St
Oklahoma City

The Drywall King LLC

945 S. Cornwell Dr
Yukon

The Skunk Whisperer

9521 B Riverside Prkwy
Tulsa

Thunder Ducts

3921 NW 22nd St
Oklahoma City

Total Home Construction

P.O. Box 30765
Midwest City

Total Home Controls, Inc.

10901 Rowlett Ave.
Oklahoma City

TOTAL ROOFING

Oklahoma City

Trilink Restoration Group LLC

3300 N Santa Fe Ave
Oklahoma City

Tulsa Renew

5103 S Sheridan
Tulsa

Turnkey Roofing

626 N Main St
Noble

Two Handymen & A Truck

1515 N. Crawford Ave
Norman

US Exteriors LLC

822 W Edmond Rd
Edmond

Van De Steeg & Associates Inc

13718 N. Lincoln Blvd.
Edmond

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Weatherization Experts Inc

PO Box 1451
Newcastle

WINDSOR DOOR SIDING & WINDOW

1320 E GRAND BLVD
Oklahoma City

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