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B
" Very well, the contractor phoned and explained my situation. He requested that I authorize the work and then he can be more precise about the price. The price" was not reduced. He did the job he was contracted to do. The tech also suggested using a giological flush each month to prevent the future clogs. mily

-Mark Z.

A
"As usual went well, have used before. Very honest, does good work, has good rates, and squeezed us in due to an inspection deadline. Recommend" and if we weren't moving out of town he would stay our go to plumber.

-Derek R.

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Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

You have not said how old your house is, what normal water line life in your area is, whether it is leaking under the foundation or under the yard, etc. Cost depends a great deal on length of run, depth to dig to get below frost line, whether excavation will be through trees or other obstructions or open area, whether ground along route is too steep for a backhoe to work on, etc.

The first thing you really need to figure out is whether this is a spot repair issue, or a total line replacement issue. Your plumber should be able to help with that determination.  Very general rule of thumb - very old line from before 80's, if galvanized pipe, could be at its practical life and be ready for total replacement. Copper line generally last about 50-70 years UNLESS in a corrosive soil environment or if it has groundwater flowing actively past it, then can be 20-30 years. Plastic lines from the 60's to 80's vary a lot - from as little as 10 years to 50 plus dependingon brand. Plastic lines (PVC, HDPE, PE) from the 80's and later are expected to last 50-100 years - most have not failed yet, so no good handle on how long they will last.

An above-ground or under the slab line a plumber will do. Buried line outside he generally subcontracts to an excavator to dig and backfill the line, or asks you to get the excavation done.

 

If section needing replacement is under your floor slab or foundation, then a full replacement can be many thousands of $ depending on how many linear feet, and if interior flooring will have to be replaced or if you are on a bare concrete slab or bringing the new line in above-ground once you get through the foundation. A simple one-spot buried pipe repair (based on acoustic locating and precisely measuring the location of the problem) can be as little as $400 but probably more often $1000 or so - more if poor access like under a slab underneath stairs.

If the runs to be replaced are exposed in a crawl space or basement than it can run as little as $20/LF (probably $400 minimum job cost) to replace.

 

Outside line to the street can run from as little as $10/LF in areas where the pipe is shallow (no annual frost penetration) and in easy digging soil, to $250/LF or more if deeply buried, have to excavate through trees and heavy roots or boulders, steep topography, other utility interferences etc. Generally not more than $50/LF. Commonly, instead of digging up the old line, they select a new semi-parallel route from a good connection point for you existing interior water lines at the foundation (maybe not where it currently comes in, depoending on access) to the street main shutoff valve (called a "key box", taking a route between them that is easiest to get a backhoe into and minimizes destruction of valuable plantings or trees. A number of $50/LF is commonly tossed around as "normal" for this type of job, if exceeding 100 feet or so and digging and access conditions are normal.

If your connection is in the middle of the street rather than along your side in the yard, that can easily add $2-5,000 to the job, as the water utility usually has to do that part, and repair the street afterwards. In a major throughway street, even more because of traffic control, multi-agency permits, etc.

 

As always, find 2-3 responsible, well-recommended (Anglie's List ?) contractors, and then get bids. The route I would go is first go with your regular plumber to locate the leak (probably acoustically, by listening for the leak) and determine the scope of work needed, then if major, go for multiple bids.

 

?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

?
FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
www.thomeservices.com

Drain Cleaning reviews in Edmond

A

Rating
was very timely in meeting appointments and project start time. Due to tricky path around existing electrical system got a second opinion on the project and provided alternative recommendations. He and his team completed the work in one 12 hour day which we expected would take at least 2 days. He was ...More so concerned with appearance of visible work that he returned and redid a tricky connection to improve appearance. Team was extremely flexible working around family events and minimized time water service was shut down.
- Guy D.
A

Rating
I explained the problem, shared what I knew about the layout of the underground sewer lines, and the plumber got to work. We were surprised to find a large knot of paper/rags of some sort in the drain, but it was quickly and efficiently removed and we're now back to free-running drains. Prompt and efficient; great service.
- Durwin S.
A

Rating
He was able to give us a quick appointment, showed up on time, assessed the problem, had to go to Lowes for parts, and replaces some clogged filters that were causing the low pressure issue. He was done quickly and we were up and running in no time!
- LAURA M.
A

Rating
Everything was fantastic. I called that day about scheduling a main line clean and was pleasantly surprised that they were available same day. They arrived when they said they would. The two gentlemen who performed the service were courteous and knowledgeable. They left everything as it was, not an item out of place when the work was complete. ...More I was very pleased with the price, it was much lower than the other places I contacted. I have already added them to my address book, there is no question that I would use them again :)
One last bit I can't forget, I received a call after the service was performed to make sure everything was done to my satisfaction. Above and beyond customer service that seems to be lost theses days!!
- Nichole S.
A

Rating
My husband and I had a really great experience with this company! Our sewer line backed up and we tried to snake it with another company but it didn't work so we had to hydro jet the clogged pipe. Unfortunately it ended up being a much bigger problem than just a clog. There were a lot of roots but we also saw that part of the sewer line had ...More collapsed and it was in a place that wasn't easy to access. :( Their crew came out quickly, they were very professional and they showed me everything that was going on until I understood it. Then they worked with me to go over the options for repairs until we found the best option, which I was really pleased with. Then the best thing - they moved quickly - which was great because we couldn't take showers or flush our toilets, etc.!! Their workers - Gio and Michi and a few others - were really considerate, friendly and extremely hard-working. I was very impressed with their work ethic! The supervisor, , was really friendly and helpful and helped to work out a good deal, along with the owner. They seemed more focused on getting the job done right and finding the best solution and not on running up a huge bill. The guys were at our house for 3 days and they worked hard - even coming in all day on Saturday to get our plumbing up and running as quickly as possible. I really appreciated their efforts to finish the job as quickly as possible!!! All in all, I was really pleased with their prices, their quality and their work ethic. I would definitely recommend them and use them again myself.
- holly Q.
A

Rating
I have currently employed the plumbing services of " " on three occasions and have been very satisfied each time with the professionalism of Mr. (the owner). I am in the real estate business and have over the years employed many plumbers and Mr. is the best of those. He ...More offers suggestions/options and provides detailed answers to all of my questions. You feel that he thinks problems thru and does not rush a job in order to finish quickly and get paid. I would highly recommend ' " to all Angie's List members.
- FLORIAN S.
A

Rating
returned our message promptly. He was available to to do the repair work in about an hour and a half. He arrived before the estimated time. He was friendly and professional. He inspected the leak and recommended that we replace both the hot and cold water pipe due to the age and condition of the pipes. We agreed to his recommendation. ...More He used copper pipes and completed the work in about two hours. The workmanship was excellent! We would recommend using for your plumbing needs.
- Greg Y.
A

Rating
Although the appointment had been scheduled for early in the morning, came only a couple of hours later. When I called the office it took a while till called me back. She apologized for the delay because of unforeseen problems with another job. Because the bathroom shower drain was blocked she snaked ...More the drain. She ran the cable a couple of times down the drain. Although nothing could be brought up, there seemed to be something resisting the snake. could eventually destroy the blockage. She also tested all other drains in the house. worked very thoroughly and explained what and why she was doing it. She is very friendly and professional. Except of the scheduling and responsiveness which was not optimal in my case I was very pleased with her work. I will hire her again.
- Gudrun N.

Drain Cleaning Companies in Edmond, OK

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1st Choice Plumber & Moore

2125 SW 26th St
Oklahoma City

1st Choice Plumbing

p.o. box 890775
Oklahoma City

A MR.PLUMBER

3703 N Asbury Ave
Bethany

A Perfect Fit Plumbing & Gas Co LLC

4200 N Vernon Rd
Oklahoma City

A PLUS SVC PLUMBING

3344 S ANN ARBOR AVE
Oklahoma City

AAA Plumbing and Solar

6721 E Britton Rd
Oklahoma City

Abobs Plumbing

5600 Coltrane
Oklahoma City

Above All Plumbing

PO Box 432
Kingfisher

Academy Disc Plumbing & Repair

89 N Robinson Ave
Oklahoma City

Accountable Plumbing

913 SW 45th street
Oklahoma City

Ace's Rooter Plumbing

1013 Majestic Ave
Yukon

Advent Heat Air & Plumbing

14717 Chisholm Trail
Choctaw

Affordable Plumbing

PO Box 275
Arcadia

Affordable Renovation and Repair

6620 S. I-35 Service Rd.
Oklahoma City

Airco Service Inc

11331 E. 58th St
Tulsa

All Grunt Plumbing

12732 Teakwood Rd
Edmond

AllHome Solutions LLC.

Yukon
9032 Nw 75Th Street

Anderson Plumbing

3510 N Rockwell Ave
Bethany

ANDY OnCall

PO Box 3992
Edmond

Andy's Plumbing

1620 Sw 119th St
Oklahoma City

ANewport's Mechanical

PO Box 891835
Oklahoma City

Anyhour Plumbing & Sewer

8509 Mantle Ave
Oklahoma City

APGAS&PLUMBING

10700 S.Western

Arnold's Plumbing,LLC

PO BOX 55664
Oklahoma City

ATKINSON KAISER PLUMBING

Po Box 7014
Edmond

ATS All Plumbing Co.

Oklahoma City

Barnum Plumbing Inc

4000 S Sunnylane
Oklahoma City

Baxter Electric, Heating, Air & Plumbing

13732 N Lincoln Blvd
Edmond

BBB Tile & Construction

10108 bison circle

Big D Plumbing

2705 Short Dr.
Edmond

Black Diamond Custom Services

4115 N MacArthur Blvd
Oklahoma City

Blackmon Mooring

1101 Enterprise Ave
Oklahoma City

Bobs Repair LLC

PO BOX 58194

BOREN PLUMBING

7916 NW 23RD
Bethany

Boss Plumbing LLC

Oklahoma City

Bradley Plumbing

3935 NW 122nd
Oklahoma City

BURROWS PLUMBING & CO INC

6705 N KELLEY AVE
Oklahoma City

C & K Services

3848 S Indian Meridian
Choctaw

Century Plumbing

5757 S Douglas Blvd
Guthrie

CHEROKEE PLUMBING LLC

13766 N Lincoln Blvd
Edmond

Chet Walcott Plumbing

3401 S Brock Dr
Oklahoma City

Choice Home Warranty

1090 King Georges Post Rd

Dean Smith Quality Plumbing

9800 E Lindsey St
Norman

DK Plumbing

3532 Remington Place RD

DRAIN DEPOT

6000 NW EXPWY
Oklahoma City

Dunrite Painting & Drywall

1002 SW 89th #506
Oklahoma City

Elliott plumbing

10924 SW 30th St
Yukon

Eric The Plumber

4505 N Council Rd
Bethany

Ever-Ready Plumbing Heat and Air

P.O. Box 21903
Oklahoma City

Excel Comfort Services

321 W 18th St
Edmond

Executive Heating And Air LLC

801 NW 79th St
Oklahoma City

Flores Flooring

Oklahoma City

Gilmore N Minard Services

12401 N MacArthur Blvd
Oklahoma City

Gordon's Service Experts

12354 S Sunnylane
Oklahoma City

GRADEN Construction

4833 Del Crest Dr
Oklahoma City

Green and Sons A/C, Heating and Plumbing

833 NW 69TH St
Oklahoma City

Handyman Hurley LLC

32 Bella Vista Lane
Shawnee

Handyman Matters Of Oklahoma City

230 W Wilshire Blvd
Oklahoma City

Handymen R Us Inc

3516 SE 48th St
Oklahoma City

Henslee's Plumbing LLC

PO BOX 57184
Oklahoma City

Hermans Plumbing

1545 Republic Cir
Oklahoma City

Hill & Company Service Inc

5125 NW 5th Pl
Oklahoma City

Hire A Hubby

11711 S. Czech Hall Road
Mustang

Hollowell Plumbing, Inc.

4109 SE 59th St
Oklahoma City

Hull Plumbing Inc.

2600 W Main St
Oklahoma City

INDUSTRIAL PLUMBING & HEATING

2801 NW 10TH ST
Oklahoma City

IRWIN Septic Tank Cleaning, Plumbing & Repair

115B South Westminster Rd
Midwest City

J & A Plumbing Co

804 N Cedar Dr.
Midwest City

Jerry's Plumbing

1712 Yosemite Pl
Edmond

Jet Plumbing

123 JET
Oklahoma City

Kaphar Construction

600 Tower Dr
Moore

Kingworks, LLC

14700 Metro Plaza Blvd Suite B
Edmond

Kirkland Plumbing Service LLC

2409 E Park Pl
Oklahoma City

KLUCK'S SAW & KNIFE SERVICE

1113 NW 1ST ST
Oklahoma City

Lakeshore Plumbing Company Llc

6400 NW Expressway #634
Oklahoma City

Leadtrust Funding LLC

817 Irish lane Suite 10
Edmond

Luckinbill Inc.

409 W. Centennial Blvd

Magic Plumbing Heating & Air LLC

1700 Silver Oaks Dr
Edmond

MARK'S APPLIANCE SVC

5204 NW 108TH TER
Oklahoma City

Master Services

621 S Mayhill Rd

McGuire's Express Plumbing

44 NE 50th St
Oklahoma City

MID-CITY PLUMBING

PO BOX 19744
Oklahoma City

Morgan Plumbing

8324 NW 111th St.
Oklahoma City

Mr Comfort

1200 N Council Rd
Oklahoma City

Mr. Rooter Plumbing of Oklahoma City

8132 W Reno Ave
Oklahoma City

Mullin Plumbing

2936 N Shields Blvd
Oklahoma City

National Rooter

#1 EDMOND
Edmond

NBC Plumbing Inc

4516 Martin Dr
Edmond

Norman Plumbing Contractors

19445 260th
Washington

OLSON PLUMBING CO INC

47 E 22ND ST
Edmond

Parrott Plumbing

11808 Bellhurst Ave
Oklahoma City

PATRICKS GEORGE PLUMBING CO

401 SE 59TH ST
Oklahoma City

Peach Construction

1404 Oak Drive
Edmond

PERFECTION PLUMBING

1301 northridge rd.
Moore

Performance Mechanical

2124 S. Czech hall rd

Pipe Doctors LLC

16121 Bluff Cir
Edmond

Pipes Plus, LLC

920 N Meridian Ave
Oklahoma City

Pipeworks Plumbing

PO Box 850090
Yukon

Plumb Crazy Plumbing

308 W Britton Rd
Oklahoma City

PLUMB-TECH INC

10728 BLACK JACK RIDGE RD
Oklahoma City

Plumber Oklahoma City, Ok Plumbing & Repair

3102 North Classen Boulevard
Oklahoma City

R.D.S. Plumbing & Construction Services

P.O. Box 10331
Midwest City

RANDY SIMON'S PLUMBING

10500 N KELLEY AVE
Oklahoma City

Red Beard Plumbing

PO Box 851261
Yukon

Red Dirt Plumbing

1386 Tim Holt Dr.
Harrah

Rogers Plumbing LLC

309 Little Chisholm Cir
Edmond

Roto-Rooter

3120 S Ann Arbor Ave
Oklahoma City

Route 66 Plumbing

PO Box 2066
Edmond

ROYAL FLUSH PLUMBING

1633 SW BINKLEY ST
Oklahoma City

Schuler Enterprises LLC

PO Box 30847
Edmond

Stan's Plumbing Inc

7000 NW 63rd St
Bethany

Steward Maintenance

PO Box 645
Oklahoma City

Stone Creek Plumbing Co

405 Wimbleton Rd
Edmond

super plunge plumbing

313 brentwood dr

T A Miller Plumbing

4801 N Willard Ave
Oklahoma City

Tate Plumbing

We come to you, no address needed
Oklahoma City

TCB Mechanical LLC

3912 Pine ave
Del City

The Denner Company

4904 North McMillan Avenue
Bethany

Thunder Plumbing

2940 nw 12 th street
Oklahoma City

Tip Top LLC

P.o. Box 7490

Tomahawk Plumbing

PO Box 851415
Yukon

TPC-The Plumbing Company, LLC

12101 N MacArthur Blvd.
Oklahoma City

True Tech Home Services

2224 S Air Depot
Oklahoma City

Waggoner's Heating & Air Conditioning

1351 East Indian Hills Rd
Norman

Water Boy's Plumbing

704 Reseach Park Blvd.
Norman

Water-Tech Enterprises, Inc

Po Box 1927
Edmond

Waterworks plumbing

Village Dr.
Chickasha

Will Rogers Plumbing

2219 E Fox Ln
Newcastle

Zerorez of Oklahoma City

1209 SE 44th St
Oklahoma City

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1. Say you need a Drain Cleaning Company
2. Angie's List has tons of detailed, local reviews.
3. Find a winner, and book them.
4. Angie's List is there to resolve any issues.
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