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Over 5,012 reviews for
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"Done over 2 days. Each team of guys per day were great. Professional, timely, hard-working, efficient, and also kind (a big plus for me), They explained everything....(even" the how-does-it-work questions I asked from pure curiosity). The administrative team/office -- also great and responsive. I'd highly recommend them!

-Stephanie M.

"The folks at
did a great job for me and my mom. I contacted
, and explained to him that I own the house my mom lives" in, that I live out of town, and that I need to pay for the service. While this doesn't sound like a complicated thing, so many companies have a hard time with it.
was great. He said "no problem." We discussed the issues we were having, he weighed the pros and cons of the different options, then guided me to the best deal for the option we selected.
followed up immediately with my mom by arranging a time that was convenient for her, showed up on time, and completed the job with a very pleasant attitude and in a professional manner. After completing the job,
followed up with me to let me know how it went, as well as what they learned and what they did. Over all, I give
two thumbs up!

-Mary F.

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Local Articles in Coweta

Avoid Ice Dams With Proper Attic Insulation

An ice dam can cause serious problems to your roof without proper insulation.

attic access door able to convert to room
Remodeling - General, Insulation

Wish you had more room in your home? Attics have room for you to convert into living space.

By properly insulating your attic you can keep warm air from escaping and save money on your energy bills. (Photo courtesy of Vinay S. of North Brunswick, New Jersey)

Hot air rises … but good insulation can keep your energy costs from doing the same thing.

Better air quality, quieter living spaces, comfort and better health are all reasons to reconsider your insulation choices. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Roseanne J. of Seattle)

Not just for new construction, learn how foam insulation can be placed inside existing walls to make your home more comfortable.

While traditional fiberglass insulation is affordable and efficient, injection foam insulation can offer even more benefits. (Photo by Summer Galyan)

Insulation isn't sexy, but it can keep you cool at night.

Angie's Answers


If you go the Better Business Bureau website you can see that the company has only had two complaints in the last 18 months and that they have both been resolved.  The company has an A+ rating.  This is not something you can buy.


There are genuine reviews on many 3rd party online review sites including AngiesList and the Better Business Bureau.  Simply do a Google search for "Smart Energy Today Reviews".


Sol Blanket Insulation acts as a radiant barrier, insulation and a vapor barrier.  It is not intended to replace traditional insulation but in fact compliments it and adds to it's ability to keep cool/hot air (depending on the season) in the home when the envelope of the home is properly sealed.  


Every attic is different and there are many other components that must be considered.  You mentioned an attic fan as well.  The heat that is radiated away from the ceiling by the Sol-Blanket Insulation is pushed out of the attic with an attic fan.  The US Department of Energy states that radiant barriers do work and suggest they be installed by professionals.


As with any product by any company if the product is not installed properly and other factors (attic fan, caulking and sealing, etc...) are not addressed then it will not be as effective.


A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.


Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake


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Insulation reviews in Coweta


They did a good job. They prepped the space by covering walls and floor with plastic sheeting, then came back the next day to spray the foam, and the following day they returned to cut off excess foam and clean up. Sotiris was friendly and easy to work with and always showed up when he said he would.
We had a small glitch when we discovered our main circuit breaker was too small (60 amps) to run his equipment. We were able to get an electrician to come out the same day to upgrade the breaker to 100 amps, and Sotiris came back the next day to spray the foam. Each visit took about a half day: half day to prep, half day to set up and spray, half day to clean up. Finished job looks good and their cleanup was thorough.
I don't know how their pricing compares to others because we didn't get any other quotes, so I gave a rating of "N/A" to price only because I have no basis for knowing how his price compares to others. But I would recommend based on quality of the work.
- Suzanne S.

Before installing siding
Coweta Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
blew insulation through the exterior walls into my wall cavities. It went great. They added a ton of insulation. I can feel the difference in my house already. A little messy job, but they did clean up well. The job took 1 day.
Coweta Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
did a great job.
- Peggy M.

Coweta Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
, the owner, came personally to the house to bid the job and follow-up at the conclusion. I got 4 total bids from spray foam companies in the region all according to my specifications of removing the blown in cellulose and spraying 5" of closed foam.
Coweta Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was the most competitive
We have a fairly large home with a substantial amount of roofing so the job took 3 days to complete and was an expensive project. All the crews were very punctual, courteous, communicative, and careful with our home. They were very cautious in preventing this messy job from getting around to other parts of the house. Our crew chief (
Coweta Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
) was always responsive to our questions and kept us well informed all along the way. They cleaned up after themselves each day. The scale of the job and my choice of closed cell foam at 5" thickness meant it was a pricey project but I'm very pleased with the job they did. I cannot stress enough how courteous and respectful they were of us and our home. I can see why they have a strong reputation. I'd use them again. We are pleased with the results.
- Kevin C.

Coweta Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was a no show for our estimate appointment to replace the insulation in our crawl space. he didn't call to say he would be late. We called him after he missed our appointment time. He said the weather and traffic was bad and he would be about 2 hours late. We had another appointment scheduled for that time so we cancelled.
- Ken D.

They were on time, very professional, and very clean. They were able to get in an out in a timely fashion, and worked around our schedule. My children came home and didn't notice anything our of place except to find a much warmer home. We immediately noticed the difference it made. Then the summer heat was less of an issue in our century-old house.
This was one of Angie's deals. It was a great bargain.
- ErinBeth D.

Went very well . They showed up on time first thing in morning with a couple dozen guys got right to work. Was like a well oiled machine and were all cleaned up and gone by 12.30 pm And
Coweta Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
Theofanopoulos was there to help through process.

except when all done no final walk through. When i voices concerns sent pics and forman called me on phone only after
Coweta Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
called him. Said he was to far away to come back on way to another install.
Everything was great till end I just feel they dropped ball at end of project!!!
- william T.

Overall went well. The first time he was scheduled to come he was unable to make it and didn't notify me until the night before via email. The service was great when we finally agreed on a date. I wasn't happy about tripping to get sold items that I had no use for.
- Josephine A.

The crew arrived right within the time frame they estimated. They had come directly from another job in the neighborhood, and I could tell they had been working, but were clean and presentable. They introduced themselves, were friendly and courteous, but got right to work.
They put down drop-cloths to make a pathway along the floor everywhere they walked. They sprayed the foam insulation in the crawl space against the exterior walls and rim joist of my split-level home. They insulated from the underside of my floor, right down to the plastic sheeting on the crawlspace floor. I noticed acoustic differences to the living space immediately; I also noticed the smell of the foam curing. The crew lead assured me that the smell would dissipate throughout the day, which it did. The space feels much less “connected” to the outdoors than it used to, and we are really looking forward to feeling the difference this winter!
There was not much to the clean-up, so overall it was a great experience. I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect, and maybe I just got lucky, but I was pleased that I didn’t hear any foul language and saw no smoking from any of the crew members. The most memorable moment for me personally, was when crewman
Coweta Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
, who did the spraying—thanked me for “letting him spray foam” in my crawl space. His
Coweta Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was so genuinely grateful and sincere, that it just kind of struck me. I
Coweta Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
’t believe you can fake that kind of appreciation… certainly a dedicated employee. That’s exactly the kind of personality you want to have working for you.
We will definitely use
Coweta Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
again on the next project.

- Julie P.

Insulation Contractors in Coweta, OK

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A Man and A Shovel

Broken Arrow

Affordable Construction Co

6401 N Interstate Dr

Air Assurance

1301 SW Expressway Dr
Broken Arrow

Air Comfort Solutions

2732 N Sheridan Rd

Air Solutions

108 Wellston Park Rd
Sand Springs

Airco Service Inc

11331 E 58th St

All American Building Products

11915 E 51st ST

All Pro Construction

317 West 46th Street

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

Axis Renovations LLC

8516 S Dogwood Ave
Broken Arrow


5132 S 94th East Ave

Bone Dry Roofing Inc Tulsa

9723 E 61st St

BumbleBee Homes and More

120 W Inglewood St
Broken Arrow

Burnett Inc Windows & Siding

11202 E 61st St

C&A Paint and Remodel Inc

1321 W Will Rogers Blvd.

CDS Drywall, LLC

3081 W Albany

Collins Roofing LLC

2003 N Yellowwood Ave
Broken Arrow

Comfort Insulation Co

PO Box 305

Cornerstone Remodeling, Inc.

21818 West 13th Place S.
Sand Springs

Elite Service Co

10007 E 59th St

Fasciatech inc

2108 n 26th st

Grey Owl Construction

840 N Marion AVE

Handy D's

527 S 75th E Ave

Handy Rays Handyman

23 N Knoxville

Home Tech

10331 E 26th St

Homeguard Construction Inc

2315 S Hemlock Ave
Broken Arrow

Hometown Handyman Services

108 E 21st St


1430 E 36TH PL.

Jack Nelson Service Experts

9223 S Garnett
Broken Arrow

Kamouflage Konstruction Inc

13740 S. Glen Pl.

Kinser Renovations

10718 s Lynn Lane

Legacy construction

10951 N 202 E Ave

Lewis Roofing & Construction

8730 E 43rd St

More Insulation

612 N Walnut Ave
Broken Arrow

Original restoration llc

3905 w vandalia st


602 W. Broadway St.

Pathfinder Restoration & Construction, LLC.

701 South 27th Street
Broken Arrow

Perfection Roofing Inc

4445 S 91St E Ave

Pinnacle Energy Advantage

624 South Denver Ave

Pro Aeroseal

10338 E 11th Street

R. Shields Construction Ltd

5522 s Delaware pl

Roofscapes Exteriors LLC

15010 S Grant St

Ryans Customs

6708 s 255th e ave

Sanoma Construction

P.O. Box 434
Broken Arrow


PO Box 547

Sleep Easy Air LLC

1329 n yale ave

Sooner Construction

415 E Normal St

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street


3340 S 124TH EAST AVE

Statewide Roofing Inc

5001 E I-240 Service Rd.
Oklahoma City

Stolhand Heating and AC

413 South 3rd
Ponca City

Storm Master Inc.

6444 N.W. Expressway
Oklahoma City

STP Construction

1905 S Xanthus Ave

T.B.S Metal Building and Repair

6663 east Newton place

Tulsa Insulation

1916 W 91st St

Tulsa Renew

5103 S Sheridan

Tulsa Roofing & Home Remodel

4514 E 28th Street

Van De Steeg & Associates Inc

13718 N. Lincoln Blvd.

Vision Air Services

3527 s 151st e pl


12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Weather Resistant Contractors

1430 Oak Road Catoosa

Wilde Construction Services

1112 robin road

Work N Haul Its

2864 s 66th e pl

Wortman Central A/C Co

1612 E 6th St

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