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B
"Contractor replaced west Kitchen Fluorescent Light Fixture and 2 Bulbs on 07-21-2015 and charged $244.58 for less than 1 hr of work. Given Contractor's price," decided to replace east Kitchen Fluorescent Light Fixture and 2 Bulbs myself. Bought parts from Lowes for $36.12 ($25.32 Fixture and $10.80 for T12 Bulbs). Completed work in less than 2 hours. Contractor's price upon review appears to have been unreasonable.

-CHARLES P.

A
"It went great. The person providing the quote was very thorough and responsive. They were able to have a great crew in our offices within a week and the team onsite" was very professional and asked questions to clarify many things instead of making assumptions. Would certainly use them again and highly recommend them.

-BONNEY P.

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Local Articles in Broken Arrow

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Common Electrical Problems

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

ambient lighting
Lighting, Interior Design & Decorating, Electrical

People often underestimate and overlook lighting when planning a space.

Kitchens offer an abundance of lighting choices that can add aesthetic appeal. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Tim S. of  Atlanta)
Lighting, Electrical

On this episode of the Chat with the Experts podcast, Chuck Hill of Mister Sparky explains lighting options for your home and answers electrical questions.

outlets installed on kitchen counter
Interior Design & Decorating, Electrical

Homes are often constructed with just the minimum required amount of outlets for each area.

firefighter at controlled burn in Indianapolis
Remodeling - General, Electrical, Chimney Sweep

Thirty seconds is the length of most television commercials. It’s also the length of time it takes for a fire to get out of control in your home.

Angie's Answers

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Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

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Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

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An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

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If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrician reviews in Broken Arrow

A

Rating
I hired a different electrician who offered a $49 deal. That electrician caused problems with my circuit breaker, causing my hot water heater to not work after they left. That electrician also took shortcuts and used electrical tape to tape a filler plate.
Broken Arrow Electricians Provider Name Locked
came out and inspected the previous electrician's work.
Broken Arrow Electricians Provider Name Locked
immediately recognized the problem and installed a standard breaker in an area the prior electrician had relocated.
Broken Arrow Electricians Provider Name Locked
inserted the wires, tested the breaker and tested my hot water heater. a filler plate was not necessary since
Broken Arrow Electricians Provider Name Locked
installed a standard sized breaker. This is the second time I have used
Broken Arrow Electricians Provider Name Locked
and I wish I hadn't have fell for the other elctrician's $49 "deal."
- Rocky B.
F

Rating
Per an insurance inspection, I needed to add a
Broken Arrow Electricians Provider Name Locked
circuit filler plate and a few grommets to cover some wires in the breaker box.
Broken Arrow Electricians Provider Name Locked
sent two workers out. They moved a
Broken Arrow Electricians Provider Name Locked
2 pole breaker from the top of the box to the bottom where the filler plate was supposed to go, corresponding to the inspectors photos. The problem was they put it in the wrong slot and my water heater stopped working. I did not realize this until after they left. They then literally used black electrician's tape to tape the filler plate to the top of the breaker box where the
Broken Arrow Electricians Provider Name Locked
2 pole breaker used to sit. I did not realize they used electricians tape to fasten the filler plate until after they left and I touched it, causing it to become unsecured because it was fastened by tape. They apparently used tape because they did not have a the proper size
Broken Arrow Electricians Provider Name Locked
with them.
I chose
Broken Arrow Electricians Provider Name Locked
over my usual Angie's List electrician because this was a
Broken Arrow Electricians Provider Name Locked
project and because of their $49.00 "deal." I ended up having to call my usual Angie's List electrician out, who installed standard 2 pole breaker in the area where the taped filler plate had been located. They then resecured the wires that had been relocated by
Broken Arrow Electricians Provider Name Locked
into the new standard breaker, and tested my water heater, which now worked. The standard breaker also made the need for a filler plate unnecessary, since the prior breaker was
Broken Arrow Electricians Provider Name Locked
.
I cannot believe that any licensed electrician would use tape fasten a filler plate. They should have the materials they commonly need with them and if not, go get the items instead of taking extreme short cuts. Also, they should not move working breakers as a short cut either. Finally, if they do move working breakers, they should test them to ensure they are working.
This "deal" ended up costing me more money.
Broken Arrow Electricians Provider Name Locked
is so unprofessional that I decided I could not trust them to repair the problems they caused. I would never let them in my home again.
- Rocky B.
A

Rating
Bill always arrives on time and keeps working until the job is done. He has a terrific work ethic and pleasant personality. He re-wired our whole 2000 sq ft house a year ago. He probably saved our house from an electrical fire due to faulty wiring.
- Mona R.
A

Rating
Broken Arrow Electricians Provider Name Locked
did an excellent job in fixing my house's electrical problems. Moreover, he helped me check the wiring of my garage. He is responsive, and came to my house on the same day I called him (he happened to work on another project in a neighboring town). I will be glad to use his service again in the future, and definitely recommend him to others.
- Chen L.
A

Rating
Angies List had contractor contact me so connecting by phone for appointment set-up was pretty easy. Licensed electrician and helper arrived promptly as scheduled. Asked what needed to be done, then started work immediately. Very polite, very quick, very clean (they picked up empty product boxes, wire and such and put it in the trash). Seemed to be earnest people interested in a working relationship not just the one Angies List job. I would hire again. This was my first successful attempt using Angies List and I was pleased. Sure beats having to track down each individual contractor by phone.
- Kathy R.
A

Rating
Most recently Weaver Electric installed the new electrical for our outdoor kitchen and service for an outdoor hot tub. However, I have worked with Weaver Electric for over ten years and continually call them for all my electrical service needs. They have installed and upgraded new electrical service for properties I've had in Houston, Deer Park,
Broken Arrow Electricians Provider Name Locked
and other areas. They also completed the electrical build-out for our office space. They offer quality workmanship and respectable prices and are very timely and responsive to our service requests. I have referred them to many other property owners and will continue to do so.
- nancy A.
A

Rating
Broken Arrow Electricians Provider Name Locked
arrived a few minutes prior to scheduled time, proceeded to do the work in a professional manner, cleaned up and left. They did a wonderful job at a reasonable cost. Would definitely hire again.
- jeanette W.
A

Rating
The provider responded promptly and serviced the outlet quickly. It was a very small job and I appreciate the fact that they do small jobs!
- Gayle K.

Electricians in Broken Arrow, OK

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1st Call Electric

P.O. Box 1811
Sand Springs

3-D Construction Inc

13542 S 235th Ave
Coweta

ABEC Electric, LLC

1218 W 41st St
Tulsa

Addco Electric Inc

1136 S 107th East Ave
Tulsa

Airco Service Inc

11331 E 58th St
Tulsa

AJ Electric Inc

PO Box 140278
Broken Arrow

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave. SE

Alpha Omega Handyman Service

13856 E Anderson Dr
Claremore

ALRAC ELECTRIC INC

543 S Victor Ave
Tulsa

ANDY ONCALL

5807 S GARNETT RD
Tulsa

Angel Services

640 140th St
Tulsa

Arrowhead Construction Inc

5810 So 118Th E Ave
Tulsa

B & B Electrical Services Inc

15009 E 155TH St N
Collinsville

B & V ELECTRIC

1109 W DETROIT ST
Broken Arrow

Barney's Electric

2169 S 104th E Ave
Tulsa

Best Choice Remodeling

2443 E Lake Breeze Rd
Cleveland

Bill Russell Plumbing

PO Box 35324
Tulsa

BIRKES CONSTRUCTION CO LLC

5132 S 94th East Ave
Tulsa

Bonomi Enterprise

1206 S. 93rd East Avenue
Tulsa

Brasco Electric

11726 N 117th E Ave
Collinsville

C & L ELECTRIC

401 N WALNUT AVE
Broken Arrow

C&A Paint and Remodel Inc

1321 W Will Rogers Blvd.
Claremore

CARTRIDGE WORLD

1015 E LANSING ST
Broken Arrow

CHAMPION CLEANING SVC

514 S ELM PL
Broken Arrow

Classic Electric Co

11618 E 69th St N
Owasso

Colburn Electric

829 W Elgin St
Broken Arrow

CONTINENTAL BATTERY CO

509 N REDBUD AVE
Broken Arrow

COVENANT ELECTRIC INC

7440 S 234TH EAST AVE
Broken Arrow

Covenant Restorations Inc

P.O. Box 898
Skiatook

CREATIVE SERVICES INC

6825 S 250TH EAST AVE
Broken Arrow

DAVECO ELECTRIC INC

938 S YALE AVE
Tulsa

Davids Electrical Service

11212 N Memorial
Jenks

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

Dmt electric LLC

19419 south Yale
Mounds

DNA Electrical Services, Inc

11100 E 123rd St N
Owasso

Doug's Paperhanging

2637 E 35th St
Tulsa

Dowell's Electric Works

751 Christmas Lane
Claremore

Dr Brokenhouse LLC

PO Box 14437
Tulsa

ELECTRICAL DESIGN & CONSTR INC

12718 E 55 S
Broken Arrow

Elite Electric Inc

708 S 11th St
Broken Arrow

EMTEC PEST CONTROL

1241 N SHERIDAN RD
Tulsa

ESO, LLC

4140 W 81st St
Tulsa

Everding Electric Inc

8550 East 131st St S
Bixby

Exquisite Designs

47332 Sterdley Falls

FeeneyCo

1939 W Pittsburg Pl

FIREYE INC

2700 N HEMLOCK CT
Broken Arrow

FOREHAND ELECTRIC INC

3428 E 11TH ST
Tulsa

Fowler Electric, Inc

2310 N Old Hwy 66
Catoosa

Freedom Electrical

17 S. Main
Sapulpa

GARCO CONSTRUCTION

21 GAIL LN
Sapulpa

Gato Electric

18109 E 11th St
Tulsa

Genesis 1:3 Electric LLC

7800 W 63rd Pl N
Tulsa

GILLEY ELECTRIC CO

819 S LEWIS AVE
Tulsa

GREEN ELECTRICAL ENTERPRISES

1837 N 13th St
Broken Arrow

Handyman Extraordinaire

7656 S Kingston Pl
Tulsa

Harp Service Company

350 S Vermont
Oklahoma City

Harp Services

5009 W 62nd St
Tulsa

Hermans Plumbing

1545 Republic Cir
Oklahoma City

HOME DEPOT

901 S ELGIN AVE
Tulsa

Home Depot

9808 E 71st St
Tulsa

Home Touch Electricians

8991 S 193rd E Ave
Broken Arrow

Homeguard Construction Inc

2315 S Hemlock Ave
Broken Arrow

Hometown Handyman Services

108 E 21st St
Owasso

Honest Mike's Home Repair

6528 E 101st St
Tulsa

HOUCHIN ELECTRIC CO INC

P.O. Box 471347
Tulsa

HUMMINGBIRD ELECTRIC

9120 E 37TH CT
Tulsa

IMAJENUS

6350 S 289TH EAST AVE
Broken Arrow

IMPERIUM SOLUTIONS

1910 N Willow Ave
Broken Arrow

INSTALLATIONS & REMODELING INC

1430 E 36TH PL.
Tulsa

JAF Electronic Pro-Services

10908 North 160 East Avenue
Owasso

Jarrett Electric LLC

599 NE 423 Loop
Spavinaw

JIM'S ELECTRIC

2301 N BEECH AVE
Broken Arrow

Kamolz Garage

15325 S MEMORIAL DRIVE SUITE D

Kevin's Electrical

91011 W Marshall Street
Tulsa

KNOX ELECTRIC

PO Box1544
Okmulgee

Kopin & Sons Electric

16314 E 2nd St
Tulsa

LEAK ELECTRIC

16501 E 127TH ST
Broken Arrow

LEAK ELECTRIC

800 S 8TH ST
Broken Arrow

Legacy construction

10951 N 202 E Ave

Livewire Electric

9714 S 69th East Ave
Tulsa

Masterpiece Renovations

PO Box 141095
Broken Arrow

MAXIN ELECTRIC

11333 E 51ST PL S
Broken Arrow

Messimore Electric LLC

500 S. LYNN RIGGS SUITE 276
Claremore

Midland Electrical

PO Box 488
Bixby

MIDSTATE TRAFFIC CONTROL

904 S 11TH ST
Broken Arrow

MIKE'S AUTOHAUS

2803 S HARVARD AVE
Tulsa

MILLCREEK LUMBER & SUPPLY CO

6201 S 192TH EAST AVENUE
Broken Arrow

Mingo Valley Electric

1357 N 108th East Ave
Tulsa

Mister Sparky

3068 N Thompson St

Mister Sparky Electrician

1605 S Aster Ave
Broken Arrow

Moody Construction

P.O. Box 1678
Owasso

Mr Electric of Central Oklahoma

704 Research Park Blvd
Norman

MURPHY ELECTRIC

12220 S 116TH EAST AVE
Broken Arrow

Murray Electrical Services

7508 E 11th St
Tulsa

OKLAHOMA ELECTRIC

101 BASS PRO DR
Broken Arrow

OMNI MECHANICAL SVC

5918 S 129 EAST AVE
Broken Arrow

Perfect Home Renovations

1324 W Hot Springs Pl
Broken Arrow

Power Tools Home Improvement

724 W Elgin St
Broken Arrow

PPg Services

5918 E King St
Tulsa

Premier Energy Technical Services

5435 S. 101st E ave
Tulsa

Protractor LLC

PO BOX 426
Coweta

Purco Electrical Services LLC

117 W San Diego Street
Broken Arrow

QUANTUM ELECTRIC CO

3711 E ADMIRAL PL
Tulsa

R. Shields Construction Ltd

5522 s Delaware pl

Rainbow Painting

Broken Arrow

Reflexion K Services

1710 S. 132nd E. Ct.
Tulsa

Rent A Guy

462 E. 138th Pl.

Residential Repair Inc

7628 E. 46th St
Tulsa

Rhein Remodeling

402 Grant Ave
Sand Springs

RICHARDS ELECTRIC

PO BOX 825
Broken Arrow

Rick Tallent Electric

5 W 1St St
Sand Springs

Scott's Handyman Service

10314 E 136 St N
Collinsville

Selsor Building and Remodeling

1309 S Walnut Ave
Broken Arrow

Singer Electric Services

1175 S Aspen Ave
Broken Arrow

SINGER ELECTRIC SVC

512 FAIRWAY CT
Broken Arrow

Sisk Electric Co

397014 W 4000 Rd
Skiatook

Smarthome Concepts

10307 E. 90th St. North

Solar Electric

11926 S 90th E Ave
Bixby

Stowers Electricians Extrodinare

12109 N 194th E Ave
Collinsville

Sun City Solar Energy

20227 S 137th East Ave
Bixby

Sun Renovations & Construction

1909 W 47th St
Tulsa

TERAC CONTROLS INC

9600 S 219TH EAST AVE
Broken Arrow

The Service Guy

10014 E 47th St
Tulsa

The Skunk Whisperer

9521 B Riverside Prkwy
Tulsa

The TV Pro's

2779 W. 176th St. N
Skiatook

THIRD GENERATION ELECTRIC INC

8620 S 33RD WEST AVE
Tulsa

Tile By Tony Inc

1875 N Hwy 66
Catoosa

Timberwolf Electric

9707 S Hudson Pl
Tulsa

Tip Top Construction LLC and CCOT

8177 So. Harvard Ave.
Tulsa

Tom's Electric

21540 E 104th St
Broken Arrow

Unique Renovations

4220 Colonial Dr
Sapulpa

Universal Electric

8538 S Florence Ave
Tulsa

VAP Auto Shop

6549 E 40TH ST
Tulsa

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WEBB ELECTRICAL CO

PO Box 70866

Whitney and Sons Electric Co

4919 N 36th St
Broken Arrow

WHITNEY ELECTRICAL SVC

12326 E 60TH ST
Tulsa

WHM Global Enterprise LLC

2811 E 90th St
Tulsa

Wiley Davis Electrical Inc

4236 S 76th East Ave
Tulsa

Wizard of Saws

8215 e 111th pl
Bixby

WOOD ELECTRIC

920 N WILLOW ST
Sand Springs

Woodall Electric

606 25th St

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