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"He was responsible, respectful and professional. He was able to almost accomplish everything we had hoped that he would be able to do in the day, and will follow" up generously with us for the final small things.

-Miriam B.

A
"The staff was very prompt in returning the calls and scheduled the service within 24-48 hours. Arrived to perform the inspection in time and also arranged a rapid" repair on the spot. The needed re-wiring of sub-panel was completed the same afternoon once the diagnose was done. It is amazing how fast they could get to the spot and resolve issues. Their response after the service was prompt too. Will recommend to others.

-kelly L.

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Local Articles in Westerville

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Angie's Answers

?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?
Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

?

The amperage is the rated power it can handle. Modern houses are generally built with 200 amp panels, and a lot of the newer ones are going 300-350 amps as more and more electronic devices and fancy and high-demand kitchen devices and increased lighting are used in homes.

Both are just as safe - the 200 amp one will just have many more breaker slots, allowing way more circuits, and providing more room for expansion in the future, especially for power-hungry things like shop tools. Each uses only as much electricity as is used in the circuits - the panel itself does not consume any electricity, so no long-term impact there. It is just a circuit connection box where the individual circuits are connected, with circuit protectors (breakers) in line before it connects to the main line to your electric usage meter.

Unless you are real tight on money on this job, I would upgrade to 200 amps capacity - the incremental cost is about $100-200 or so over the 100 amp panel. If your incoming power line cannot handle 200 amps, you could install a 100 amp main breaker to keep the power company happy but put in the 200 amp breaker panel, so in the future a main line upgrade could be done with only a main disconnect breaker upgrade of $100 or so, without having to change anything inside the house.

Having the larger panel, especially if 200 amp capacity all the way from the meter, can be a selling point (or rather, lack of a negative point) to a potential buyer with lots of electronics or who is into shop power tools. It would also facilitate conversion to electric heat / water heating if someone wanted to do that.

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

?

An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

Electrician reviews in Westerville

A

Rating
The work was excellent. and his assistant were on time and professional. The responsiveness to our request for the work required was fantastic. Appointment options were provided to get the work done. made sure that the original work would be done promptly, the next day, by stopping at our house in ...More the afternoon on his way home from work. Had the job done withing an hour. Fantastic!!!
- Michael M.
A

Rating
The original electrician assigned could not come at scheduled time due to a family emergency, but the company called to let us know the situation and offered to send another electrician working in our area at a later time in the same day. We were agreeable.
Electrician arrived at scheduled time, but didn't have a dimmer switch, because he ...More wasn't the original assigned electrician and didn't know what parts were needed. He offered to go their electrical supplier (if they were open, which they were - barely) and obtain the necessary dimmer switch.
Switch was replaced without any issues. He also looked at the bathroom exhaust fan, and said that the heater was actually not working, and there wasn't anything more he could do unless / until I purchased a new fan.
My "price" concern is with the charge for troubleshooting, which is in the neighborhood of $300, even though it seemed to require only about 15 minutes! They seem to have set amounts they charge for certain services, which can be a value, or not, to the homeowner. I ended up paying for the $88 value package (which presumably gave me $200+ value in work) plus another $21 for the service. Considering this included the switch, and he was maybe at my house for a total of an hour, that is probably typical...not any great value.
He also spent a fair amount of time describing other services I could purchase, but there was no high pressure or anything.
All in all, they were reliable, trustworthy and they stand behind their work, just need to get a good understanding of the charges to expect for the work you are having them perform.
- VICTORIA V.
A

Rating
Work was of high quality and was completed promptly without any surprises. Crew worked very closely with the cabinet installer planning ahead each day. They were very attentive and cleaned up the work place each day, no mess was left behind. Everything was explained in detail and our questions/concerns were answered patiently as the project progressed. ...More Price seemed fair and very competitive with other estimates I got for this job. Overall, we were very pleased with the final product and would love to use them again for future projects.
- Nicolae B.
A

Rating
sent out 2 workers to check out why we were experiencing an electrical when in our shower. It was diagnosed that we needed a grounding wire attached to our water line.
- Bob B.
A

Rating
was able to track down the root cause of 4 light switches that were
not working. It was an unusual cause linked to a switch that was
working. It took a lot of checking the electrical system. House wired in
a strange way when built. But, he solved the problem! was quick
to respond ...More and fit us in his schedule. This is the second time we have retained for our needs. Will use him again.
- Barbara F.
A

Rating
Great work - clean, professional, and prompt. They gave an estimate on the phone and it was less expensive than anticipated.
- Dan P.
A

Rating
Upon requesting service, Nick was very quick to respond to my questions and walked me through the pricing for the service. His technicians arrived on time, were willing to explain their work, etc. I did have a wall switch that went to an unknown location, and after some investigating the technician admitted that re-wiring the switch to the light would ...More require a smaller/more nimble technician to navigate the very tight attic space. Overall, however, the rest of the work was completed in a timely manner and to the quality promised. I would call them again for sure.

- Tim S.
A

Rating
was extremely professional and did a great job. It wasn't going to be easy but he worked quickly and efficiently to get it done. We would definitely use him again!
- Kelly D.

Electricians in Westerville, OH

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

360construction

1529 Bunchline Lane
Westerville

9 Trees Landscape Construction

5522 Center St
Hilliard

A & E ELECTRICAL CONTRACTORS

356 Mary Ave
Westerville

A Basement 2 NV

11077 Saylor Rd
Pickerington

A2Z REMODELING

6628 HEATHERSTONE CR
Dublin

Air Supply

2784 Winchester Pk
Columbus

Aire-Flo Corp

2587 N High St
Columbus

AIS Renovations Ltd

3899 Grove City Rd
Grove City

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave SE

ALL CHOICE HOME IMPROVEMENTS LLC

346 Wyndham Park S
Westerville

AM INSTALLATIONS INC

663 PARK MEADOW RD
Westerville

American Air

3945 Brookham Dr
Grove City

American Electric Power

1 Riverside Plz
Columbus

Andy's Affordable Electric Service

4277 Parkshore Dr
Lewis Center

ARCHITECTURAL VIDEO SYSTEMS INC

6591 BLACKHAWK CIR
Westerville

AROUND THE HOUSE HOME IMPROVEMENTS LLC

370 MEADOW KNOLL CT
Johnstown

Arrow Roofing & Remodeling

116 Norton Rd
Columbus

ARTIC FLASH APPLIANCES & SER

126 E COLLEGE AVE
Westerville

At Your Service Handyman

5316 Ruth Amy Avenue
Westerville

Atlas Butler

4849 Evanswood Dr
Columbus

Avcom SMT, Inc.

213 E. Broadway Ave
Westerville

Bach Electric Co

7776 Indian Springs Dr
Powell

Baker Group Remodeling

12302 Roberts Rd
Croton

Basement Repair Specialists Inc

2974 Valleyview Dr
Columbus

Basements Unlimited

2908 S Dorchester Rd
Columbus

Basic Maintenance Repair

2663 Lindora Place
Columbus

BDJ Handymen Services

1855 Snouffer Rd
Columbus

Beacom Construction Co LLC

5437 County
Cardington

BENELEC SYSTEMS

8141 OXBOW RD
Westerville

Big 8 Remodeling Inc

2900 Ole Country Ln
Columbus

Big City Electric Inc.

6956 E Broad St
Columbus

Bob Teague

150 Walcreek Dr W
Columbus

Bob the Handyman

376 Rocky Fork Dr S
Gahanna

Bocha Electric

9841 Woodsfield Cir S
Pickerington

BP GENERAL CONTRACTORS

478 S STATE ST
Westerville

Bradley Electric

275 Old County Line Rd
Westerville

Brant Ryan Design

1105 Beechview Dr S
Worthington

Brinker Remodeling

PO Box 67307

Buckeye Basements Inc

406 Firestone Dr
Delaware

Buckeye Building Solutions Ltd

52 Westerville Sq #217
Westerville

Buckeye Handyman And Remodelinga

80 Clinton Heights Ave
Columbus

Buckeye Home Consulting, LLC

8151 Storrow Dr.
Westerville

Buckeye Power Sales Co., Inc.

6850 COMMERCE CT DR
Blacklick

Buckeye Restoration

4004 Miller-Paul Rd
Galena

Capital City Daylighting

394 E Sycamore St
Columbus

Capital Plumbing & Mechanical

1659 Watkins Rd
Columbus

CARE Heating & Cooling Inc

397 Venture Dr
Lewis Center

CASTLE HOME IMPROVEMENT LLC

321 DELAWARE DR
Westerville

CB ELECTRIC

Westerville

Cisler Lawn Care

PO Box 692
New Albany

Clean Painter

770 N. State Route 61
Sunbury

CLINE ELECTRIC CO INC

6057 HAIG POINT CT
Westerville

Columbus Home Services

54 Keene Dr
Westerville

Columbus Worthington Air

6363 Fiesta Dr
Columbus

CONLEY REMODELING

1977 Lehner Road
Columbus

Converse Electric

3783 Gantz Rd
Grove City

COUNTER TOPS PLUS

4566 CAUTELA DR
Westerville

Countryside Electric, Inc.

2920 Switzer Avenue
Columbus

Craftsmen Service Co

1320 Meadowcrest Pl
Columbus

Creative Spas & Decks

370 Allview Rd
Westerville

Curb Appeal Clean

3760 Snouffer Rd.
Columbus

CURRENT CONSTRUCTION

1200 MURMAC LN
Westerville

Custom Home & Hearth

580 Oakland Park Ave
Columbus

Custom Home Works

6777 Ulry Rd
Westerville

D & L Heating & Cooling

PO Box 108
Summit Station

DALT SALES CO

623 PARK MEADOW RD
Westerville

Dan Loken Home Improvement LLC

12582 Eastchester Rd
Pickerington

Dan of All Trades LLC

1986 Britains Ln
Columbus

DANDINI'S

112 E College Ave
Westerville

Dash Home Improvement

24937 Pleasant Trail
Cleveland

Dave Fox Design Build Remodeling

3505 W. Dublin-Granville Rd.
Columbus

Deck Masters

225 E Broadway Ave
Westerville

Deluxe Home Maintenance

5890 Sawmill Road Ste 100
Dublin

Denbrook Inc

7652 Sawmill Rd
Dublin

Detail Electric

PO Box 32327
Columbus

DLC Electric

233 S Liberty St
Powell

Efficient Electric Corp

4800 Groves Rd
Columbus

ELECTRO-TENNA

233 E BROADWAY AVE
Westerville

Elite Home Remodeling

6295 Busch Blvd
Columbus

Evolution Integration Services

542 E Mithoff St
Columbus

Finished Basements Plus Inc.

p o box 3774
Galena

Fire & Ice Heating & Air Conditioning, Inc

872 Freeway Drive N
Columbus

FLORES BROS LLC

355 ALLVIEW
Westerville

Fresh Look Design

6499 cedar brook drive
New Albany

Garcia Home Maintenance & Repair

7430 brown deer dr
Pickerington

GBR Masonry Inc

PO Box 167
Lewis Center

Genesis Audio Ltd.

132 N High St
Gahanna

Gliatas Construction Inc

1553 Waterstone Ct
Columbus

Gordon Electrical

3640 Paris Blvd
Westerville

Greene Solutions

989 Old Henderson Road
Columbus

Greg Hughes Handyman & Home Improvement

841 Sherman Rd
Chillicothe

GREYSTONE INTERIORS

1769 LANCASTER AVE
Reynoldsburg

Griffey Remodeling

5730 Westbourne Ave
Columbus

Guaranteed Heating And Cooling

3827 Broadway
Grove City

Handyman Matters Northeast Columbus

101 E College
Westerville

Handyman Matters of Columbus

6969 Worthington Galena Rd
Columbus

HANDYMAN SOLUTIONS

5880 HOPEWELL CHURCH RD S
Lancaster

HandyPro of Central Ohio

12456 Roesta Ln NW
Baltimore

HD Renovations

3898 Chickadee Ct
Westerville

HIGHER POWER ELECTRIC INC

1087 PUTNAM RD SW
Pataskala

HOME DEPOT

6035 GENDER RD
Canal Winchester

HOME REMEDIES

771 FRANKLIN AVE
Columbus

Honey to Do Ltd

47 Millfield Ave
Westerville

Hudson Harris

Westerville

Hughes Quality Expressions

1991 Linwood Ave
Columbus

Ideal Home Improvement, LLC

4526 Flower Garden Dr
New Albany

ILES & ASSOCIATES

Hyatts Rd
Delaware

Improveit! Home Remodeling

40 W 1st Ave
Columbus

INTEK INC

751 INTEK WAY
Westerville

INTERNATIONAL CABLE CORP

7521 PARK BEND CT
Westerville

J and B Custom Painting

10993 North Shore Dr
Hillsboro

J D Painting Plus LLC

5540 Mueller Lane
Pickerington

J Rush Home Improvements

PO Box 2326
Westerville

James M Hartley Electric LLC

677 E. Royal Forest Blvd.
Columbus

JD Power Systems

3979 Parkway Ln
Hilliard

Jess Howard Electric Company

6630 Taylor Rd
Blacklick

JIM DAVIS BUILDERS

3809 BERLIN STATION RD
Delaware

Jim Sabo Home Improvements

3900 Scioto-Darby Rd
Hilliard

JNP Construction Services LLC

56 W Fieldstone
Pataskala

Joe Gioffre Electric Co

1821 E Cooke Rd
Columbus

Just Basements

PO Box 218436
Columbus

Kuhns Contracting Inc

7931 Amity Pike
Plain City

Light Up Your Life Electric Inc

43 W. Plum St.
Westerville

Lighthouse Outdoor Lighting - Columbus

8595 Columbus Pike
Lewis Center

LITTLE JOE'S HANDYMAN

1764 Deer Run Ln
London

Luxury Bath

8596 Cotter St
Lewis Center

Master Plan Remodeling

1399 Josiah Morris Rd
London

Mid-Ohio Generators

3084 Columbus Rd
Centerburg

Midgley Electric

118 S Westmoor Ave Apt C
Newark

MIDLAND GROUP LLC

515 Executive Campus Dr Ste 160
Westerville

Midwest Construction Services LLC

200 E Campus View Blvd
Columbus

MIKE MCGINNIS

355 CATAWBA AVE
Westerville

Mister Electric

PO Box 1144
Mount Vernon

Mosby Electric

94 Zeller lane
Etna

Mr Electric of Columbus

8200 E. Pleasant Valley Rd
Independence

Mr Rooter Plumbing of Columbus

31359 Lorain Rd
North Olmsted

Mr. Electric

Worthington

MY ELECTRICIAN

Westerville

NAC CONSTRUCTION

5105 TUSSIC RD
Westerville

Nemal Electronics

12240 NE 14th Ave

Neverman Construction Co

908 N 4th St
Columbus

NEW RIVER ELECTRICAL CORP

6005 WESTERVILLE RD
Westerville

Newlook Sidings Inc

905 Schrock Rd
Columbus

Nicholson Builders

6525 Busch Blvd
Columbus

NME Builders & Designers LLC

4449 Easton Way
Columbus

Nordine & Associates LLC

576 E Jeffrey Pl
Columbus

Northern Lighting

5585 Westerville Rd
Westerville

O.C.D. Restoration LLC

PO Box 156
Lancaster

Ohio Exteriors LLC

244 Agler Rd
Gahanna

Old Skool Construction

PO Box 1616
Westerville

Outdoor Lighting Perspectives of Columbus

6884 Meadow Glen Dr S
Westerville

Palmer Builders LLC

4000 Leap Rd #1181
Hilliard

Phelps Electric

P.O. Box 3338
Dublin

PK Heating & Cooling and Home Improvement

729 Clareridge Ln
Centerville

Plant Masonry

201 S Main St
Johnstown

Powell Painting & Handyman

105 S Liberty St
Powell

Power Source Electric Inc

8977 Ketch Rd
Plain City

Powers Electric LLC

956 N St Rte 61
Sunbury

PRECISION WIRE LTD

5605 WESTERVILLE RD
Westerville

Prime Painting & Home Repair

206 French Run
Reynoldsburg

Pro Deck

2450 Sandover Rd
Columbus

Punch Out Plus LLC

PO BOX 28068
Columbus

Quality Electric

6200 Huntley Rd
Columbus

Radon Systems

5896 Chandler Ct
Westerville

Ralph Rhodes Custom Homes and Remodeling

11316 Watkins Rd
Marysville

Rardain's Electrical Service

698 Whirlway Ct
Columbus

Rick Kelley Builders

7521 Concord Road
Delaware

Rising Height Unlimited

2420 Performance Pkwy
Columbus

Roof Top Solutions LLC

2538 Abington Rd
Columbus

Rosati Windows

4200 Roberts Road
Columbus

Ryan Wilbur Custom Remodeling

1159 Ridgedale Dr E
Columbus

SAFEWAY ELECTRIC CO INC

141 E WINTER ST
Delaware

Scott Hall Remodeling

341 S. 3rd.
Columbus

SemBro Designs

5270 Krieger Ct
Columbus

Settle Muter Electric

711 Claycraft Rd
Columbus

Sonrise Electric LLC

4870 Blue Church Rd
Sunbury

SOVEREIGN ONE ELECTRIC

P O Box 307582
Columbus

STEVE BEGGS CONSTRUCTION

5745 WENA WY
Westerville

Steve Miller

326 Charleston Ave
Columbus

Superior Home Maintenance

493 E Livingston Ave
Columbus

SuperTec Heating and Cooling

6120 Barberry Hollow
Columbus

Surge Protection Plus

2187 Carolina Dr
Xenia

SURVIVOR ELECTRIC LLC

34 Rainbow Ave
Sunbury

Taskmasters of Columbus

6260 S. Sunbury Rd
Westerville

TEAM RM INC

6155 WESTERVILLE RD
Westerville

Teeters Windows & Remodeling

735 Cross Pointe Rd
Columbus

The Basement Doctor

7369 E Livingston Ave
Reynoldsburg

The Basement Guys

1633 Thornwood Dr
Heath

The Electric Connection

481 Schrock Rd
Columbus

THE HANDYMAN

1148 LORI LN
Westerville

The Lamplighter

5292 Cleveland Ave
Columbus

The Service People

356 E. 13th Ave
Columbus

The Theater People

5761 Westbourne Ave
Columbus

True North

4977 Windy Bluff Ct
Westerville

TWC ENTERPRISES

11737 LANCASTER ST
Millersport

Undefined Heights Electrical & Data

107 N Hamilton Rd
Columbus

Universal Construction

PO Box 785
Verona

Unlimited Production

6365 Showy Ct
Westerville

Unlimited Production

6365
Westerville

Utmost Renovations

3410 Rolling Hills Ln
Grove City

Village Handyman

5706 Bashaw Dr
Westerville

W L ELECTRIC INC

6155 WESTERVILLE RD
Westerville

Waibel Electric

133 Humphries Dr
Etna

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Wasem Electric

10860 Thrailkill Rd.
Orient

Watt 1 Electrical Systems

PO Box 297856
Columbus

Wehrle Services

1666 Black Horse Ln
Hilliard

Westin Air

5805 Chandler Ct
Westerville

Widow's Helper

976 N Nelson
Columbus

Wieland Building & Remodeling

13460 Bevelheimer Rd
Westerville

WMB Builders Inc

7570 Cubbage Road
Westerville

YellowVAN Handyman

616 Ozem Gardner Way
Westerville

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