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Over 372 reviews for
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A
"As far as we know, it's working properly. We have used
in the past and they always are efficient! Because of using them in the past," I just called directly, not even thinking they would be on Angie's List. When all was said and done, paid etc. he said that "if we would like to be one of the lucky customers each week to have the service price refunded, please go online and write a review". That's when I found out they are on Angie's List!

-Karen W.

A
"
provided a prompt and excellent service. He got my drain completely clear and even added some additional service at no extra cost. Of all" the companies I called around Jonesboro/
he was the only one available immediately and he came within an hour!!!!!!!! Most importantly He was the only company that was cost efficient !!!!!!!!!!!!! He was accompanied by another gentleman; both were friendly, professional and got the job done effectively. He was also able to let me know what caused the problem, how I needed to remedy it. I was happy and highly satisfied with the service received.

-Melissa G.

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Local Articles in Watertown

What are the warning signs of a main sewer line clog?

Highly rated plumbers describe the warning signs that your main sewer line is clogged, provide tips on unclogging the line, and explain how to avoid scams.

5 ways to avoid a sewer repair or drain cleaning scam

Don't fall victim to a unnecessary service or sewer or drain cleaning scam. Here are five ways to help avoid becoming a victim.

unclogging main line
Plumbing - Drain Cleaning

Sink and tub clogs drain your time, energy and money.

Use a plunger as your first line of defense with a clogged toilet. It can also fix clogs in the bathtub or shower, but be sure to fill the base with an inch of water to help the plunger seal before plunging. (Photo by Katie Jacewicz)
Plumbing, Plumbing - Drain Cleaning

Plumbers say the most common cause of toilet clogs is the use of multi-ply toilet paper. Other culprits are baby wipes and other allegedly "flushable" products.

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Leaky plumbing messy area under the sink
Plumbing, Plumbing - Drain Cleaning

It's a good idea to get to know a good plumber before you have a plumbing emergency. Also, watch out for these red flags of possible plumbing-related scams.

Angie's Answers

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It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
www.thomeservices.com
?
It is usually cheaper to remove part of the ceiling below and patch it after the leak has been repaired.  Remember that water can travel before settling in one area, causing the spot you've seen.  Just because it is below the toilet does not mean that the toilet is the problem.  The cheapest option is to pull the toilet and check the floor around the wax ring to see if it has been leaking.  A new wax ring only costs a few dollars.  When was the last time you caulked the shower in that bathroom?  The water can leak around the corners or at the door (if you have one) and travel along the floor joists until it pools in a lower spot on the ceiling below, then seep through.  It could also be a seal at the drain of the tub or shower. 

I get a few calls a year for this sort of thing.  It's usually something simple but can be a nightmare to diagnose, especially if the problem is intermittent.  Start with the simple possibilities and use deductive reasoning to narrow the possibilities.  Before you do a lot of damage it may pay off to hire a reputable contractor to help you make sure you've exhausted all of the imple and more obvious possibilities.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
?
The simple answer is ,"No!" The only way to effectively clean grease and scum from a drain line (or a neighborhood, jk) is with high pressured water. The machine they use is called a Jetter, many drain cleaning companies have them.

Drain Cleaning reviews in Watertown

A

Rating
They were on time, courteous , clean and very fairly priced. I bought their $89 for $200 worth of service deal here on Angie's List but had to pay a little extra since the normal price for installing a toilet exceeded the $200 coupon value. But they worked out a very fiar price for me to get both my new toilets installed. I felt very god about the deal we struck and would recommend them to anyone.
- DARLA C.
A

Rating
The job turned out to be bigger/harder then originally thought. Still, the estimate was what they charged, even after all the extra work they had to put in. I totally appreciated that. Our house is an old house and therefore was more of a challenge. The plumber remained happy and friendly even though it took him longer due to much more work involved. We are up and "running" (no pun intended) again!!!
- Denise T.
A

Rating
Watertown Drain Plumbers Provider Name Locked
came to our rescue using the camera. We discovered an amazing obstruction of dental floss in the main line. He knocked himself out to clean out our line and take care of the problem.
Watertown Drain Plumbers Provider Name Locked
was extremely professional. He had a great sense of humor which you probably need on this kind of job.
Watertown Drain Plumbers Provider Name Locked
stood behind their guarantee. We probably had had this problem for many years. I learned a lot that day! Thank you
Watertown Drain Plumbers Provider Name Locked
!


- Don R.
A

Rating
When I called, I talked to a real live human being which was great. They had a guy out to my place within an hour. They were fantastic. Everything went well. I would highly reccommend them!
- Will G.
D

Rating
They were supposed to be here at 9, but were a little late. They said what we paid for would not cover the drain cleaning we needed and refused to honor the $99 deal and said it would be $250.
- martin E.
A

Rating
They were expensive. It took him less than an hour to unclog the drain. He made sure that everything was good before he left. He worked the whole time he was here. He cleaned up everything before he left. He is inline with the price. I would use him again.
- James S.
A

Rating
Cleared both clogged lines. Worked efficiently and effectively.
I called around 10 on Monday morning, afraid they'd be too booked with weekend emergencies to make the "this afternoon" time frame, but he arrived at noon sharp! Went right to work, rooted (if that's what you call it) out 100 feet, got some roots, and cleared the lines. No big mess, just a bit of water on the basement floor under one of the access holes. Since he did hit some roots, he suggested someone to call who could send out a camera to inspect the line, but no urgency. Also recommended using an enzymatic kind of drain cleaner, to keep the lines clear. No sales push to dig up the yard and do a complete overhaul!
I've used them years ago. If it backs up again, I'll remember to call them earlier.
- Mardie H.
A

Rating
It went very well., from start to finish.
Watertown Drain Plumbers Provider Name Locked
provided the lowest of 9 estimates, yet was prompt, efficient and responsive. They also did the best job of any of the other contractors on our street. This is how we like to see a business operate. We recommend them highly.
- Thomas B.

All Drain Plumbers in Watertown, NY

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Clean Earth Septic Service

1051 State Route 224
Van Etten

GREGG'S SEWER & DRAIN SERVICE

131 SHERMAN ST
Watertown

Jaer Baer Enterprises

359 Michaels Rd

Northeast Water Systems, Llc

2338 W Kendall Rd
Kendall

Zenner & Ritter Home Services

3404 Bailey Ave
Buffalo
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