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A
"
,
, came over to our house on a Saturday to hang our television on the wall. He doesn't usually work on Saturdays" but did it for us because it was the only day we were available. My husband wanted his TV mounted on the wall for a few years and finally got his wish.
had to deal with our outside wall and electrical wires and did an outstanding job. We are very happy with the way our TV looks on our wall. He made sure all the wires were
.
also put up a light fixture for us that we tried to do ourselves and were having trouble with. Excellent job and his prices were fair! We would definitely call
again when we need his services!

-Patti C.

A
"Work was completed as desired.
was prompt, personable and professional. He quoted some additional projects, but they came in a bit higher than the other 2 quotes.

-Kathi D.

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Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

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Angie's Answers

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Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
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This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

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Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

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An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

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If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

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Electrical reviews in Lowville

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Rating
Lowville Electricians Provider Name Locked
is professional and responsive.
Lowville Electricians Provider Name Locked
explained the work and cost thoroughly. The electricians that worked in our home were professional, courteous, and knowledgeable. Ubenza was the electrician we worked most with and he was outstanding. Ubenza was very knowledgeable and addressed any questions we had. All of the people that we worked with at
Lowville Electricians Provider Name Locked
took pride in their company and their work. We will only hire
Lowville Electricians Provider Name Locked
in the future.
- Valerie R.
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Rating
Lowville Electricians Provider Name Locked
responded to my request immediately. He gave me a very reasonable estimate last Friday, and he managed to fit me in between other jobs and showed up the following Saturday to complete the work. He was very friendly as well as professional. I plan to utilize his service for other electrical projects and would not hesitate to recommend him. Great family business!
- Vera D.
A

Rating
They were so helpful. They told me which lights to purchase and they came and did the work. They were professional and diligent. They were very nice, easy to work with. I can't say enough good things about them. I've used them before and will use them again.
- Susan S.
A

Rating
Lowville Electricians Provider Name Locked
worked wonders with our quirky older house. He is imaginative and meticulous in his work. The wood work on the cased opening between the living room and den is beautiful. We were out of the country when
Lowville Electricians Provider Name Locked
renovated our kitchen and bathrooms, and we returned to find wonderful changes. Any "surprises" that cropped up during the renovations were quickly and expertly dealt with by
Lowville Electricians Provider Name Locked
. He always shows up on time when scheduled and ready to work -- all day.
Lowville Electricians Provider Name Locked
is a good
Lowville Electricians Provider Name Locked
of the monies we budgeted for our projects and was as concerned about costs as we were. We quickly felt he was almost a member of our family. We would not hesitate to contact
Lowville Electricians Provider Name Locked
again for future renovations. In fact, he is scheduled to return in May for another project.
- Kim K.
A

Rating
Despite being close to Christmas, they were prompt and punctual when appointment made. When
Lowville Electricians Provider Name Locked
came out he systematically started with
Lowville Electricians Provider Name Locked
to more complex problems. Very patient with my questions and explained everything to my satisfaction. After going thru at least 10 outlets and switches, taking down ceiling fan, climbing up in the attic and trying to figure out this house's screwy wiring system, he found the problem in my dining room ceiling light fixture. All wires were fried due to improper wire connection- aluminum to copper. And the light was still working. It took over 2 hrs to find problem and he was aware of how long it was taking and did check with me about continuing the
Lowville Electricians Provider Name Locked
. I would definitely hire this company again for my electrical needs in the future.
- BARBARA B.
A

Rating
Been using
Lowville Electricians Provider Name Locked
as my one and only since 2011. It is always excellent response time and great work. I don't mind writing a check out to these guys because it is always an "A" experience and absolute trust.
- Catherine P.
A

Rating
Excellent, professional service - always on time and Fairway offered reasonable rates. The owner,
Lowville Electricians Provider Name Locked
, was very responsive and communicated quickly via email and phone. All techs called me prior to their arrival, with a 15 minute lead time.
Lowville Electricians Provider Name Locked
managed to send out a tech on the same day I called for service and had them evaluate the scope of the problem - and then graciously arranged to have them return on a Saturday to do the repair work. The technician was extremely professional and efficient, and knew exactly what to do - and he accomplished the repairs in record time. Would definitely use
Lowville Electricians Provider Name Locked
again and was very impressed with their knowledge and great attitude!


- J. Cindy E.
A

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I purchased the $95.00 service call and hour of labor from
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.
Lowville Electricians Provider Name Locked
of
Lowville Electricians Provider Name Locked
got in touch with me within the time-frame stated in the purchase, and discussed scheduling and the problem I was having.
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worked with me on a day when the work could be done, and on that day his 2 electricians
Lowville Electricians Provider Name Locked
and
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showed up, on time and promptly went to work. Both were courteous and professional, finding the problem and fixing it within a half hour.
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took the time to explain things related to the problem to me while
Lowville Electricians Provider Name Locked
worked another area of my home, and from start to finish everything went great. I would certainly use
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in the future.
Thanks guys!

- Chris R.

All Electricians in Lowville, NY

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A & E Electric

5 Dugway Road
Dansville

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave SE

Alpine Home Improvement Co

268 Route 6N
Mahopac

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

Anderson Water Systems Inc

79 Saginaw Dr
Rochester

Astar Heating & Air Conditioning Inc

36 Wes Warren Dr
Middletown

Austin Bros. Contracting

4 Roberts Ct
Queensbury

Benjamin Lake

805 Heather Ln

BWD Electric

2 Harvey Pl
Buffalo

C & G CONSTRUCTION COMPANY

1007 PARK AVE
Utica

C & G Electrical Supply

44 William St
Arcade

Citizens Choice

172 W Englewood Ave

CMV Contracting

16091 rt 22
Stephentown

DEAN'S CONTRACTING SERVICES

1259 HUGHES RD
Fultonville

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

Double LL Electrical Inc

46 Twin Channels Rd
Queensbury

Exquisite Designs

47332 Sterdley Falls

First Class Remodeling Inc

36 Mountain Pass Road
Hopewell Junction

FullTec Consultants

Commonwealth Ave

Garvin Construction Inc

13304 US Route 11
Adams Center

GLOW ELECTRIC

294 PORTER RD
Malone

High Tech Construction Co

3623 15th ave
Brooklyn

Hope Energy Group, LLC

875 state route 443
Gallupville

J.C. Structural

PO Box 54
Henderson

Jaer Baer Enterprises

359 Michaels Rd

K P Enterprises Inc

2605 Ferry Ave
Niagara Falls

KEMPNEY ELECTRIC & MORE

PO BOX 15,15204 SCHOOL ST.
Depauville

King of Garbage

168 West 133rd Street
Manhattan

Lewis Electric and Power

218 Lake St. Plaza
Penn Yan

MC GRATH'S ELECTRIC

5679 Glendale Rd
Lowville

NE Masonry & Construction

11 Yorkshire Dr
Glens Falls

Noel Amc inc.

182 Chemin Fairview
Malone

Northern Light Structures

18560 County Route 162
Watertown

Redneck Construction

105 Eiseman St
Kenmore

richard mix constuction

6176 oatka rd po.box 306
Perry

Severance Construction

38 Forest Rd
Massena

STAN'S ELECTRIC

GARDNER RD
Lowville

Standby Power Systems

1606 Tanner Ave

Tim's Electrical Service

6 Boulder Dr
Sandy Creek

Triple P

318B Dixon Road
Queensbury

United Construction

323 e 14th st.
Elmira

V Louis Power Solutions Inc

9 Powelton Rd
Newburgh

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WEBB ELECTRICAL CO

PO Box 70866

Wild West Contracting

PO Box 423
Gorham

WURTSBORO ELECTRIC SVC INC

PO Box 450
Wurtsboro
Lowville Zip Codes

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