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" Very well, the contractor phoned and explained my situation. He requested that I authorize the work and then he can be more precise about the price. The price" was not reduced. He did the job he was contracted to do. The tech also suggested using a giological flush each month to prevent the future clogs. mily

-Mark Z.

"As usual went well, have used before. Very honest, does good work, has good rates, and squeezed us in due to an inspection deadline. Recommend" and if we weren't moving out of town he would stay our go to plumber.

-Derek R.

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Angie's Answers


First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.


Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.


From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
It is usually cheaper to remove part of the ceiling below and patch it after the leak has been repaired.  Remember that water can travel before settling in one area, causing the spot you've seen.  Just because it is below the toilet does not mean that the toilet is the problem.  The cheapest option is to pull the toilet and check the floor around the wax ring to see if it has been leaking.  A new wax ring only costs a few dollars.  When was the last time you caulked the shower in that bathroom?  The water can leak around the corners or at the door (if you have one) and travel along the floor joists until it pools in a lower spot on the ceiling below, then seep through.  It could also be a seal at the drain of the tub or shower. 

I get a few calls a year for this sort of thing.  It's usually something simple but can be a nightmare to diagnose, especially if the problem is intermittent.  Start with the simple possibilities and use deductive reasoning to narrow the possibilities.  Before you do a lot of damage it may pay off to hire a reputable contractor to help you make sure you've exhausted all of the imple and more obvious possibilities.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Cleaning reviews in Clifton Park


was very timely in meeting appointments and project start time. Due to tricky path around existing electrical system got a second opinion on the project and provided alternative recommendations. He and his team completed the work in one 12 hour day which we expected would take at least 2 days. He was ...More so concerned with appearance of visible work that he returned and redid a tricky connection to improve appearance. Team was extremely flexible working around family events and minimized time water service was shut down.
- Guy D.

I explained the problem, shared what I knew about the layout of the underground sewer lines, and the plumber got to work. We were surprised to find a large knot of paper/rags of some sort in the drain, but it was quickly and efficiently removed and we're now back to free-running drains. Prompt and efficient; great service.
- Durwin S.

He was able to give us a quick appointment, showed up on time, assessed the problem, had to go to Lowes for parts, and replaces some clogged filters that were causing the low pressure issue. He was done quickly and we were up and running in no time!

Everything was fantastic. I called that day about scheduling a main line clean and was pleasantly surprised that they were available same day. They arrived when they said they would. The two gentlemen who performed the service were courteous and knowledgeable. They left everything as it was, not an item out of place when the work was complete. ...More I was very pleased with the price, it was much lower than the other places I contacted. I have already added them to my address book, there is no question that I would use them again :)
One last bit I can't forget, I received a call after the service was performed to make sure everything was done to my satisfaction. Above and beyond customer service that seems to be lost theses days!!
- Nichole S.

My husband and I had a really great experience with this company! Our sewer line backed up and we tried to snake it with another company but it didn't work so we had to hydro jet the clogged pipe. Unfortunately it ended up being a much bigger problem than just a clog. There were a lot of roots but we also saw that part of the sewer line had ...More collapsed and it was in a place that wasn't easy to access. :( Their crew came out quickly, they were very professional and they showed me everything that was going on until I understood it. Then they worked with me to go over the options for repairs until we found the best option, which I was really pleased with. Then the best thing - they moved quickly - which was great because we couldn't take showers or flush our toilets, etc.!! Their workers - Gio and Michi and a few others - were really considerate, friendly and extremely hard-working. I was very impressed with their work ethic! The supervisor, , was really friendly and helpful and helped to work out a good deal, along with the owner. They seemed more focused on getting the job done right and finding the best solution and not on running up a huge bill. The guys were at our house for 3 days and they worked hard - even coming in all day on Saturday to get our plumbing up and running as quickly as possible. I really appreciated their efforts to finish the job as quickly as possible!!! All in all, I was really pleased with their prices, their quality and their work ethic. I would definitely recommend them and use them again myself.
- holly Q.

I have currently employed the plumbing services of " " on three occasions and have been very satisfied each time with the professionalism of Mr. (the owner). I am in the real estate business and have over the years employed many plumbers and Mr. is the best of those. He ...More offers suggestions/options and provides detailed answers to all of my questions. You feel that he thinks problems thru and does not rush a job in order to finish quickly and get paid. I would highly recommend ' " to all Angie's List members.

returned our message promptly. He was available to to do the repair work in about an hour and a half. He arrived before the estimated time. He was friendly and professional. He inspected the leak and recommended that we replace both the hot and cold water pipe due to the age and condition of the pipes. We agreed to his recommendation. ...More He used copper pipes and completed the work in about two hours. The workmanship was excellent! We would recommend using for your plumbing needs.
- Greg Y.

Although the appointment had been scheduled for early in the morning, came only a couple of hours later. When I called the office it took a while till called me back. She apologized for the delay because of unforeseen problems with another job. Because the bathroom shower drain was blocked she snaked ...More the drain. She ran the cable a couple of times down the drain. Although nothing could be brought up, there seemed to be something resisting the snake. could eventually destroy the blockage. She also tested all other drains in the house. worked very thoroughly and explained what and why she was doing it. She is very friendly and professional. Except of the scheduling and responsiveness which was not optimal in my case I was very pleased with her work. I will hire her again.
- Gudrun N.

Drain Cleaning Companies in Clifton Park, NY

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!





Adirondack P & M, Inc.

10 Holden Ave

Albany Plumbing

231 Central Avenue

Almindo Plumbing LLC

1 Norge Rd

Amore Builder's

p.o. box 1752

Apex Sewer & Drain Cleaning

872 Albany Shaker Rd.

Averill Park Septic Svc LLC

1953 St Rte 43
Averill Park

Beno's painting

33 Clayton Place

Best Plumbing

143 Thimbleberry Rd
Ballston Spa

Blueprint Remodeling

7 state st

Chas G Burch Supply Co

760 State St

Choice Home Warranty

1090 King Georges Post Rd

Compass Realty, Inc

PO Box 272

Couture Contracting & Modular Homes

383 Stuffle Street

Creative Interiors

58 Arcadia Ct.

David P Garrity Plumbing & Heating LLC

112 Sagendorf Rd
East Greenbush

DiVietro Construction

4 Bramble Wood
Clifton Park

Drip Services

38 Koonz Road

Easy Clean

168 Pyramid Pines
Saratoga Springs

Efficient Heating & Cooling Services

37 Bloomingdale Ave

Empire State Plumbing, Inc

260 Osborne Rd

EZ Pay Veterans Handyman

13 Evergreen Dr

Farrell Brothers Inc

6 Simmons Ln

Father & Son Home Improvements

114 9th Street
Saratoga Springs

Get it Done Contracting

2nd street

Gordon's Home Improvement

433 Lake Desolation Road
Middle Grove

Grandview Properties

23 N Grandview Terrace

H2O Solutions

2401 Rte 9

Hortons Home Services

2305 Berkley Ave

HouseSmart Home and Office Improvement

221 Northline Road
Ballston Spa

Hunny Do

13b Woodbine Dr
Clifton Park

Jack Hall Plumbing & Heating Inc

165 Bay St
Glens Falls

James & Doraine Bushnell

43 Martins Hill

JDW Contracting

1607 Schodack Valley
Castleton On The Hudson

jnd tree service

110 forbes st

JPH Property Solutions, LLC

1121 McClellan Street


100 Lawrence St

KJC Construction

5 Cedar Run

KTS Home Improvement

63A Werner Rd
Clifton Park

Kumpel's Plumbing and Heating

P.O. Box 171
Burnt Hills

Living Water Service

52 Fairway Blvd

Long Energy

170 Myrtle Ave

Mulholland's On Call Plumbing & Heating

99 Walworth St
Saratoga Springs

Naum Shkaf Painting and Roofing

1420 Best Rd.
East Greenbush

Night Owl Mechanical

105 County Route 312

Northeast GC LLC

194 moe rd
Clifton Park

NorthEast Property Services

3577 Carman rd



Pete The Plumber NY

492 Giffords Church Rd

Professional Facility Cleaning

16 Partition St

PTO Home Service & Repairs

31 Saratoga Ave
Ballston Spa

Roland J Down Service Experts

13 Airport Rd

Rolling Rooter

178 Beaver Dam Rd

Rooter Man Plumbing & Drain

641 Grooms Road
Clifton Park


22 Iroquois St
Rotterdam Junction

S C Bass Plumbing Inc

486 Central Ave


Averill Park

Sj Roberts Plumbing

po box 454

superior services

208 vernon rd

The Original(518) PAY-4995

911 Central AVE

Two Brothers, LLC

81 pierre ave

V.Rosati Plumbing & Heating

7 Grant Rd.
South Glens Falls


918 Sacandaga Rd

Wied's Handyman Service

871 County Route 28

Wilson Bros Heating Cooling Plumbing

PO BOX 373

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