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"I called
and left a message. He called me back within 5 minutes. After explaining that I lost power in half my house,
" stated would be out within the hour.
was very prompt and even on a Saturday. He diagonosed the problem within a few minutes and said it was a ComEd problem.
called ComEd and reported the problem. ComEd followed up with a visit within an hour as well. Even though
spent a few minutes with the diagnosis, he took the time to speak with me about the upcoming sale of my house and some other issues I had. I appreciated his suggestions and will take his advice. I will post his company on my Facebook page so all my friends know about this reputable electrician. Thank you
for helping me out in a pinch!

-Laura J.

"I called as a new client and
called me back right away.
then tried to ascertain over the phone if I needed them" or not....what great people! I was worried I wouldn't find someone to come out last minute on a Friday but I didn't have to worry with this company. They sent
out and he was there mid-day when I had just called and spoke to them that morning.
was great! He showed me what I should have seen in the breaker box and then noticed there was something wrong with the switch. Everyone was very professional. I wish I could find more companies like this one. Will definitely use again and have already recommended to others. If I could give them an A++ I would.

-Tracy Lee M.

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Local Articles in Pahrump

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Common Electrical Problems

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

outlets installed on kitchen counter
Interior Design & Decorating, Electrical

Homes are often constructed with just the minimum required amount of outlets for each area.

adjusting a hardwired smoke detector
Alarms, , Electrical

Dear Angie: How often do I need to replace my hard-wired smoke detectors? And who should I hire to do this? Our 15-year-old system has five detectors. A few are chirping, and it doesn’t stop even when we replace the batteries. – Michael G., Benbrook, Texas

DVRs are a top Energy Vampire
Electrical, Appliance Sales

DVRs are the most diabolical of the many home appliances that use energy even when turned off.

ambient lighting
Lighting, Interior Design & Decorating, Electrical

People often underestimate and overlook lighting when planning a space.

Angie's Answers

Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).


As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !



Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.


An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.


A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.


Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.


If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.


I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.


IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrician reviews in Pahrump


This is the second time I've used this company, and they were as excellent this time as the last. A friend recommended them after I had been charged for unnecessary repairs by another company.
Pahrump Electricians Provider Name Locked
was the technician who provided this service call; and he was professional, thorough, and especially patient in answering my gazillion questions. He checked the unit outdoors, the main component in the attic, and each rooms' actual air temperature output. I really appreciated also that he educated me about several things which will ensure my unit's longevity as well as reduce my energy bills. The receptionist who took my call found my record right away, seemed genuinely pleased I was returning for business, and set up my appointment courteously and without delay.
It is a pleasure to do business with companies like
Pahrump Electricians Provider Name Locked
, where one can have confidence in the honesty of its staff. Their prices are very reasonable also. I actually didn't have anything wrong with my unit except "operator error"...........I had accidentally put the fan in "continuous" mode instead of "auto". Since I hadn't had my unit checked for a while, it certainly would have been easy enough to tell me I needed Freon (given Houston's weather) and charged me a higher fee; but
Pahrump Electricians Provider Name Locked
's integrity is just one more example why I'll ONLY use and recommend this company for any of my AC and heating needs. A+++

Excellent job. Setting up the appointment was easy - excellent and prompt communication. Electricians were efficient, friendly, and knowledgable. This will be our go-to electric service company.
- Douglas A.

Pahrump Electricians Provider Name Locked
Pahrump Electricians Provider Name Locked
did a great job.
They arrived a couple hours after the stated time frame but was no big deal as we were home.
Very profressional and friendly.
- Lowell V.

The work was fast, professional and almost a year later has held up very well. There was a minor hiccup where the wrong cable was installed for the workout room, but this was remedied without delay. The manual transfer switch was customized and labeled to my satisfaction, with the electrician making several adjustments as we went along so now the house works very well on emergency power during outages.
- Peter M.

I went great. They were easy to contact. They came out right away to look at the job and place a bid on the project. Then they scheduled installation quickly. Easy, Easy, Easy.
- Robyn P.

It was very alarming to find my dimmer smelling like burning plastic after a bad thunder. I, of course was worried sick that it could cause a fire and burn the entire house down. I talked to
Pahrump Electricians Provider Name Locked
who has absolutely amazing at calming me down and asking all the right questions to determine whether it was an emergency or something that could wait and determine if it was safe. Even though no actual physical service was performed, he was great at helping me out. He was honest and willing to recommend other companies that could come help in the next following days since they were booked until next week. I will definitely use
Pahrump Electricians Provider Name Locked
for all my electric needs from now on!
- Liza C.

Pahrump Electricians Provider Name Locked
is aptly named. Quick response, friendly but efficient, professional, and reasonably priced.

I took three estimates. The first took forever just to respond and schedule, would not even listen to my concerns about underground placement, and left me feeling like they could care less. The second priced out more than double over the other two estimates for the job, and left me feeling intimidated about possibly replacing practically every bit of electrical in my house. Then I texted out to several electricians on Angie's. List.
Pahrump Electricians Provider Name Locked
was the first to respond.

Pahrump Electricians Provider Name Locked
cared about the job and backed it up with great work.
Pahrump Electricians Provider Name Locked
went above and beyond and noticed things I needed that I never even thought about - like since I'm disabled, adding a switch next to the house so I wouldn't have to walk all the way across the yard to turn off my pool pump. He checked for my approval every step along the way, And he didn't mind all of my questions. (On a side note: I mentioned that I had trouble finding someone to come out and backfill after the pool install. He offered his skills in that area and did a great work with that job too. He even helped move things in the yard just to help me out as he saw my need.) But back to the electrical . . .

I will definitely trust
Pahrump Electricians Provider Name Locked
with all of my electric jobs in the future. I would say -
Pahrump Electricians Provider Name Locked
has a company you can trust. Professionalism and work effort above par! It's like finding that great
Pahrump Electricians Provider Name Locked
hotel where you know you can recommend with confidence that others will be able to relax and enjoy the same great service that you experienced - I recommend
Pahrump Electricians Provider Name Locked
with an A+.
- Sherri E.

My husband and I were not pleased with the price of "services" rendered. We immediately called another electric company and they delivered (see my review dated, August 28, 2015) exceptional service beginning with the Office Manager and ending with the electrician the company sent out. This second company that I called charges a $45 service call, but if you use them, the service charge is applied to the work done. This second electric company provided excellent, quality customer service at a fair and reasonable price. They installed both light fixtures for a total of $85. We plan to call them back to install the exhaust fan. Their company's electrician quoted us a price to install the exhaust fan that was less expensive than Desert Electric and offered a coupon. All in all, we paid $188. If we had gone with the second company first, we could have saved $103! In conclusion, I will not hire Desert Electric Company again and I feel they should at least reimburse us for the "other services" that were charged us.
- Joye J.

Electricians in Pahrump, NV

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

702 Mechanical Services, LLC

8428 Teton Crest Pl
Las Vegas

A-1 Sprinklers

3703 Winter White Tail St
Las Vegas


549 Zuber Ave

Access Building Solutions LLC

50 Emery St, #455

ADT Hometronics

2470 N Decatur Blvd
Las Vegas

ADT Security Services, Inc

2588 Fire Mesa Ave
Las Vegas


940 Empire Mesa Way

Advantage Power, LLC

6265 W. Post Rd
Las Vegas

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave. SE


Las Vegas

Allstate Electric LLC.

4815 W Russell Rd Ste 4D
Las Vegas


807 Monticello Drive
Las Vegas

AM Fire & Electronic Services

3330 S Wynn Rd
Las Vegas


Las Vegas

American Pride Handymen

6269 Chimney Wood Ave
Las Vegas

American Southwest Electric

4485 Riviera Ridge Ave
Las Vegas

Angela B. Vasquez

1720 Pennsylvania Ave Unit B

AR Handyman Services



1081 S Cimarron Rd Ste B3
Las Vegas

Asian Imports Auto Repair

Las Vegas

Auto Care Plus

5068 E Washington Ave
Las Vegas


Las Vegas


6811 Stubblefield Dr

BatteriesInAFlash.com, Inc.

720 W Cheyenne Ave Ste 170
North Las Vegas

Blazing Angels' Construction Company

6655 Boulder Hwy
Las Vegas


Las Vegas

Bob's Handyman

3900 El Cedral Ave.
Las Vegas

Bombard Renewable Energy

6434 S Arville Rd
Las Vegas

Brendyl Electric

5334 E Monroe Ave
Las Vegas


60220 Chalet Dr

Catskill Auto Service

2375 Silver Wolf Dr




Las Vegas

Clark County Builders LLC

59 Toggle St

Coil Residential Construction

9578 Silver Mine St
Las Vegas



Construction & Service Electric Co

4760 S Pecos Rd
Las Vegas

Control Central, LLC

8020 Las Vegas Blvd. South #48
Las Vegas

Cordan LLC - Cordan Electric

8125 Eagle Clan Ct.
Las Vegas

Country Wide ProServ - Las Vegas

2017 Humble Hollow Pl
North Las Vegas

cube integrations

Long Beach, Ca


North Las Vegas


Las Vegas

D.i. Auto Repair Truck Repair & Diesel Service

973 east desert inn road
Las Vegas



David McMahan

PO Box 4415

Day and Night Handyman

6128 Maverick Street
Las Vegas

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

Diversity Electric

175 North Gibson Road


2870 Marco St
Las Vegas

Drop Shade

2547 E Washburn Rd
North Las Vegas


Las Vegas

EA Systems LLC

6255 McLeod #19
Las Vegas


6149 S. Rainbow
Las Vegas

Ecolife Development & Remodeling

9850 S Maryland Pkwy
Las Vegas

Edwin's Auto Center

5115 Dean Martin Dr. Ste 513
Las Vegas

Electric Express

2411 Alpine Meadows Ave

Electrical contracto

4600 Sophia way

Electrician Henderson

2831 St. Rose Parkway, Suite 200

Electrician Las Vegas

500 North Rainbow Boulevard Suite 300
Las Vegas

Elite A/V LLC

7340 Smoke Ranch Rd.
Las Vegas

Elkin Construction

2611 N 48th St Unit 4

Enlighten Electric

5384 Cielo Oro St
Las Vegas

Entek Corporation

7316 NE 47th Avenue



Exquisite Designs

47332 Sterdley Falls

Family Auto Care

5001 W Charleston Blvd
Las Vegas

Floor Covering Factory Outlet

2625 E Craig Road Ste H
North Las Vegas

FNS Electric LLC

5032 N Valadez St
Las Vegas


48 westheimer

Fuzion 3

10795 W Twain Ave Ste 120
Las Vegas

GE Electrical Services, LLC

7002 Flowering Willow St
Las Vegas

Geek Squad - Best Buy

Las Vegas

Goulding Electric

5380 Cameron St # 7
Las Vegas





GVS Construction LLC

704 Brush St
Las Vegas

Handyman Connection

115 Maple St

Handyman Unlimited

875 E. Silverado Ranch
Las Vegas

Haner Construction

5201 Patricia Avenue
Las Vegas


Las Vegas


Las Vegas


Las Vegas


6130 Hawkins Way

Home Masters

7260 W Azure Dr
Las Vegas

Hot Connection Electric Inc

2220 Lindell RD
Las Vegas

Iceman Electric, LLC.

5859 Aimless St.


1251 Cavalry St

Ideal Unlimited Electrical Communications

1215 San Eduardo Ave

J & L Construction

7640 Morning Water St
Las Vegas

Jersey Electric & Solar

4001 S Decatur Blvd
Las Vegas

K.J.'S Handyman Services

2120 Abbe LN

Kemet Electric LLC

556 N Eastern
Las Vegas


PO Box 1338

Legacy Air

6525 Button Quail St
N Las Vegas

Lindco Electric

2248 Heavenly View Dr

Local Handyman

2516 Jubilance Point CRT

LV Service Solutions, LLC

5000 W. Oakey #A2
Las Vegas




1053 pine drive

Master Set

831 Manse Rd


PO BOX 36025
Las Vegas

Maximum Offroad

4610 S Arville St
Las Vegas


PO BOX 3682

Mike's Countertops LLC

9144 Spumante Ave
Las Vegas

Mobile Masters

6275 Harrison
Las Vegas

Mr Electric of Las Vegas

6041 McLeod Dr.
Las Vegas

Multi-Trade Handyman Service

North Las Vegas

New Image Contracting Inc.

570 W Cheyenne Ave Ste 160
North Las Vegas

North Electric

156 Greenbriar Way
Las Vegas

Nu Lite Solutions INC

5852 Ponderosa Verde Pl
Las Vegas


Las Vegas

One Call Service

7495 Babbs Ct
Las Vegas

One Hour Air Conditioning & Heating

739 W Sunset Rd

One Hour Electric

6991 Red Coach
Las Vegas


Las Vegas


4132 S. Rainbow
Las Vegas

Penny Electric LLC

1987 Whitney Mesa Dr

Pinnacle Home Services

724 Kendall Ln
Boulder City

Pool Doctor

7500 Pinto Bluff St.
Las Vegas

Pownco Construction

5000 El Parque Ave.
Las Vegas

Precision Maintenance & Repair

2961 Industrial Rd
Las Vegas

Premier Design & Construction LLC

893 Via Del Tramonto St

Progressive Home

6280 S Valley View Blvd
Las Vegas

Projects Property Services

665 Ironbark Ln
Las Vegas

QEDS Construction

424 Ackerman Lane




2475 W. Cheyenne
North Las Vegas

Republic West Home Inc

8101 E McDowell Rd

Rick's Lawn & Landscaping Inc

9123 Royal Monarch Ct
Las Vegas

Robco Electric

5692 La Costa Canyon Ct.
Las Vegas

Robertson Bright Industries LLC

5125 S Valley View Blvd
Las Vegas

Ron Murphy Construction, Inc.

1641 S. Highway 160

RS Electric llc

3150 Soft Breezes Dr
Las Vegas

Ruiter Construction LLC

3355 Palms Center Dr.
Las Vegas

Sahara Transmissions

5750 E Sahara Ave Ste 100
Las Vegas

Schematic Electric LLC

PO Box 97822
Las Vegas

Southwest Electric

1196 Wigwam Pkwy

Star Energy Construction Inc

4660 SE Ave
Las Vegas

Summerlin Energy, LLC

3399 W Oquendo Rd.
Las Vegas


Las Vegas


3111 s.valley view
Las Vegas

Task Electric LLC

3221 little stream st

TD Powersports

6969 Speedway blvd. ste. 111
Las Vegas


PO BOX 6778

The Battery Source North Las Vegas

2625 E Craig Road E
North Las Vegas


2750 Pinewood ave.


Las Vegas

Tom's Improve & Repair

2580 Anthem Village Dr


2612 Cattrack Ave
North Las Vegas

Two And A Half Handymen

2204 Isabelle Ave
Las Vegas

Vegas Painters The Professionals

2840 S Jones Blvd
Las Vegas

Vegas Pro Electrical Services

3340 Wynn Rd Ste B
Las Vegas




12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Warren's Handy Hands

10808 woodlore place
Las Vegas


PO Box 70866

Whippco Electric, LLC

3999 Dean Martin Dr.
Las Vegas

Whitebear Home Repair

3657 E Colton Ave
Las Vegas

Woodall Electric

606 25th St

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