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"He was responsible, respectful and professional. He was able to almost accomplish everything we had hoped that he would be able to do in the day, and will follow" up generously with us for the final small things.

-Miriam B.

"The staff was very prompt in returning the calls and scheduled the service within 24-48 hours. Arrived to perform the inspection in time and also arranged a rapid" repair on the spot. The needed re-wiring of sub-panel was completed the same afternoon once the diagnose was done. It is amazing how fast they could get to the spot and resolve issues. Their response after the service was prompt too. Will recommend to others.

-kelly L.

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Local Articles in Pahrump

electrician installing an LED light


Electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person.

Burnt outlet

Electrical Troubleshooting

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

light switch in open electrical box without cover

If you can set the right mood in every room, why not install dimmers on every light switch in your home?

The more electronic gadgets we use, the more charging space we need. If the people in your home are fighting over space, consider converting your wall outlets to usb outlets. Not familiar with the process? An electrician answers top questions about usb outlets.

electrician tool called a voltage meter

If you own a home, you’ve probably had to hire an electrician to install new lighting or troubleshoot.

This member's old built-in refrigerator was leaking, so she had it replaced. (Photo courtesy of Angie’s List member Beth C. of Calabasas, Calif.)

Electrical kitchen appliances aren't always easy to repair (or replace) and the work can be costly.

Angie's Answers


This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !



The amperage is the rated power it can handle. Modern houses are generally built with 200 amp panels, and a lot of the newer ones are going 300-350 amps as more and more electronic devices and fancy and high-demand kitchen devices and increased lighting are used in homes.

Both are just as safe - the 200 amp one will just have many more breaker slots, allowing way more circuits, and providing more room for expansion in the future, especially for power-hungry things like shop tools. Each uses only as much electricity as is used in the circuits - the panel itself does not consume any electricity, so no long-term impact there. It is just a circuit connection box where the individual circuits are connected, with circuit protectors (breakers) in line before it connects to the main line to your electric usage meter.

Unless you are real tight on money on this job, I would upgrade to 200 amps capacity - the incremental cost is about $100-200 or so over the 100 amp panel. If your incoming power line cannot handle 200 amps, you could install a 100 amp main breaker to keep the power company happy but put in the 200 amp breaker panel, so in the future a main line upgrade could be done with only a main disconnect breaker upgrade of $100 or so, without having to change anything inside the house.

Having the larger panel, especially if 200 amp capacity all the way from the meter, can be a selling point (or rather, lack of a negative point) to a potential buyer with lots of electronics or who is into shop power tools. It would also facilitate conversion to electric heat / water heating if someone wanted to do that.


Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.


An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.


A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.


Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

Electrician reviews in Pahrump


The work was excellent. and his assistant were on time and professional. The responsiveness to our request for the work required was fantastic. Appointment options were provided to get the work done. made sure that the original work would be done promptly, the next day, by stopping at our house in ...More the afternoon on his way home from work. Had the job done withing an hour. Fantastic!!!
- Michael M.

The original electrician assigned could not come at scheduled time due to a family emergency, but the company called to let us know the situation and offered to send another electrician working in our area at a later time in the same day. We were agreeable.
Electrician arrived at scheduled time, but didn't have a dimmer switch, because he ...More wasn't the original assigned electrician and didn't know what parts were needed. He offered to go their electrical supplier (if they were open, which they were - barely) and obtain the necessary dimmer switch.
Switch was replaced without any issues. He also looked at the bathroom exhaust fan, and said that the heater was actually not working, and there wasn't anything more he could do unless / until I purchased a new fan.
My "price" concern is with the charge for troubleshooting, which is in the neighborhood of $300, even though it seemed to require only about 15 minutes! They seem to have set amounts they charge for certain services, which can be a value, or not, to the homeowner. I ended up paying for the $88 value package (which presumably gave me $200+ value in work) plus another $21 for the service. Considering this included the switch, and he was maybe at my house for a total of an hour, that is probably typical...not any great value.
He also spent a fair amount of time describing other services I could purchase, but there was no high pressure or anything.
All in all, they were reliable, trustworthy and they stand behind their work, just need to get a good understanding of the charges to expect for the work you are having them perform.

Work was of high quality and was completed promptly without any surprises. Crew worked very closely with the cabinet installer planning ahead each day. They were very attentive and cleaned up the work place each day, no mess was left behind. Everything was explained in detail and our questions/concerns were answered patiently as the project progressed. ...More Price seemed fair and very competitive with other estimates I got for this job. Overall, we were very pleased with the final product and would love to use them again for future projects.
- Nicolae B.

sent out 2 workers to check out why we were experiencing an electrical when in our shower. It was diagnosed that we needed a grounding wire attached to our water line.
- Bob B.

was able to track down the root cause of 4 light switches that were
not working. It was an unusual cause linked to a switch that was
working. It took a lot of checking the electrical system. House wired in
a strange way when built. But, he solved the problem! was quick
to respond ...More and fit us in his schedule. This is the second time we have retained for our needs. Will use him again.
- Barbara F.

Great work - clean, professional, and prompt. They gave an estimate on the phone and it was less expensive than anticipated.
- Dan P.

Upon requesting service, Nick was very quick to respond to my questions and walked me through the pricing for the service. His technicians arrived on time, were willing to explain their work, etc. I did have a wall switch that went to an unknown location, and after some investigating the technician admitted that re-wiring the switch to the light would ...More require a smaller/more nimble technician to navigate the very tight attic space. Overall, however, the rest of the work was completed in a timely manner and to the quality promised. I would call them again for sure.

- Tim S.

was extremely professional and did a great job. It wasn't going to be easy but he worked quickly and efficiently to get it done. We would definitely use him again!
- Kelly D.

Electricians in Pahrump, NV

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1 Sun Solar

2910 Highland Dr
Las Vegas

702 Mechanical Services, LLC

8428 Teton Crest Pl
Las Vegas


549 Zuber Ave

ABM Electrical & Lighitng Solutions

6280 S Valley View #632
Las Vegas

Access Building Solutions LLC

50 Emery St, #455

Access Services Group

126 Cassia Way

ADT Security Services, Inc

2588 Fire Mesa Ave
Las Vegas


940 Empire Mesa Way

Advantage Power, LLC

6265 W. Post Rd
Las Vegas

All Star Maintenance

4217 Becket Ct.
Las Vegas


Las Vegas


807 Monticello Drive
Las Vegas

AM Fire & Electronic Services

3330 S Wynn Rd
Las Vegas


Las Vegas

American Pride Handymen

6269 Chimney Wood Ave
Las Vegas

American Southwest Electric

4485 Riviera Ridge Ave
Las Vegas

Angela B. Vasquez

1720 Pennsylvania Ave Unit B

AR Handyman Services



1081 S Cimarron Rd Ste B3
Las Vegas

Asian Imports Auto Repair

Las Vegas

Auto Care Plus

5068 E Washington Ave
Las Vegas


Las Vegas


6811 Stubblefield Dr

BatteriesInAFlash.com, Inc.

720 W Cheyenne Ave Ste 170
North Las Vegas


6380 McLeod Dr Ste 16
Las Vegas

Blazing Angels' Construction Company

6655 Boulder Hwy
Las Vegas


Las Vegas

Bob's Handyman

3900 El Cedral Ave.
Las Vegas

Catskill Auto Service

2375 Silver Wolf Dr

CD's Handyman

371 E Kimberly Dr




Las Vegas

Clark County Builders LLC

59 Toggle St



Control Central, LLC

8020 Las Vegas Blvd. South #48
Las Vegas

Cordan LLC - Cordan Electric

8125 Eagle Clan Ct.
Las Vegas

Country Wide ProServ

2017 Humble Hollow Pl
North Las Vegas

cube integrations

Long Beach, Ca


North Las Vegas


Las Vegas

D.i. Auto Repair Truck Repair & Diesel Service

973 east desert inn road
Las Vegas



David McMahan

PO Box 4415

Day and Night Handyman

6128 Maverick Street
Las Vegas

Diversity Electric

175 North Gibson Road


2870 Marco St
Las Vegas

Drop Shade

2547 E Washburn Rd
North Las Vegas


Las Vegas


6255 Mcleod Dr.

EA Systems LLC

6255 McLeod #19
Las Vegas


6149 S. Rainbow
Las Vegas

Ecolife Development & Remodeling

9850 S Maryland Pkwy
Las Vegas

Edwin's Auto Center

5115 Dean Martin Dr. Ste 513
Las Vegas

Electric Express

2411 Alpine Meadows Ave

Electrical contracto

4600 Sophia way

Electrician Henderson

2831 St. Rose Parkway, Suite 200

Electrician Las Vegas

500 North Rainbow Boulevard Suite 300
Las Vegas

Elite A/V LLC

7340 Smoke Ranch Rd.
Las Vegas

Elkin Construction

2611 N 48th St Unit 4



Family Auto Care

5001 W Charleston Blvd
Las Vegas

FF Low Voltage Servcice

7026 Westbrook Ave
Las Vegas

Floor Covering Factory Outlet

2625 E Craig Road Ste H
North Las Vegas


48 westheimer

Fuzion 3

10795 W Twain Ave Ste 120
Las Vegas

GE Electrical Services, LLC

7002 Flowering Willow St
Las Vegas

Geek Squad - Best Buy

Las Vegas

Global Light & Technologies

3315 E. Russell Rd.
Las Vegas

Goulding Electric

5380 Cameron St # 7
Las Vegas

Goulding Electric of Henderson

Henderson, NV

GraEagle Construction, LLC

Las Vegas

Grand Power LLC

3004 Cloverbrook st
Las Vegas





GVS Construction LLC

704 Brush St
Las Vegas


950 Seven Hills Dr

Handyman Connection

115 Maple St

Handyman Unlimited

875 E. Silverado Ranch
Las Vegas

Haner Construction

5201 Patricia Avenue
Las Vegas


Las Vegas


Las Vegas

Home Masters

7260 W Azure Dr
Las Vegas

House Of Breakers

5525 S Valley View Blvd
Las Vegas

Iceman Electric, LLC.

5859 Aimless St.

Ideal Unlimited Electrical Communications

1215 San Eduardo Ave

Imperial Property Maintenance

4600 Gretel Cir
Las Vegas


980 Mary Crest Rd Ste A

Jack Of Trades

P.O box 571847
Las Vegas

Jason's Electrical Service

339 hollins hall st
Las Vegas

Javier Handyman Las Vegas

360 16th St
Las Vegas

Jersey Electric & Solar

4001 S Decatur Blvd
Las Vegas

K.J.'S Handyman Services

2120 Abbe LN

KBS Electric Incorporated

3460 N. Barney St.


PO Box 1338

Las Vegas Electrician Service

3960 Howard Hughes Pkwy #500
Las Vegas

Lindco Electric

2248 Heavenly View Dr

Local Handyman

2516 Jubilance Point CRT

LV Service Solutions, LLC

5000 W. Oakey #A2
Las Vegas



Master Set

831 Manse Rd


PO BOX 36025
Las Vegas

Maximum Offroad

4610 S Arville St
Las Vegas


PO BOX 3682

MSWT Home Improvement

8820 Rainbow Ridge Dr.
Las Vegas

Multi-Trade Handyman Service

North Las Vegas

MW Enterprises

10161 Park Run Drive Ste 150
Las Vegas

Native Electrical Contracting

1750 Ashfern Drive
North Las Vegas

Nemal Electronics

12240 NE 14th Ave

Nevada Scooter Authority

205 North stephanie ste d-198

New Image Contracting Inc.

570 W Cheyenne Ave Ste 160
North Las Vegas

North Electric

156 Greenbriar Way
Las Vegas

Nu Lite Solutions INC

5852 Ponderosa Verde Pl
Las Vegas


Las Vegas

One Call Service

7495 Babbs Ct
Las Vegas

One Hour Air Conditioning & Heating

739 W Sunset Rd

One Hour Electric

6991 Red Coach
Las Vegas

P&A electric llc

2277 miner way
Las Vegas


Las Vegas

PDQ Electric

Las Vegas


4132 S. Rainbow
Las Vegas

Pinnacle Home Services

724 Kendall Ln
Boulder City

Pool Doctor

7500 Pinto Bluff St.
Las Vegas


3111 S Valley View Boulevard, Suite B102
Las Vegas

Pownco Construction

5000 El Parque Ave.
Las Vegas

Precision Maintenance & Repair

2961 Industrial Rd
Las Vegas

Progressive Home

6280 S Valley View Blvd
Las Vegas

Projects Property Services

665 Ironbark Ln
Las Vegas

QEDS Construction

424 Ackerman Lane




2475 W. Cheyenne
North Las Vegas

Republic West Home Inc

8101 E McDowell Rd

Robertson Bright Industries LLC

5125 S Valley View Blvd
Las Vegas

Ron Murphy Construction, Inc.

1641 S. Highway 160

RS Electric llc

3150 Soft Breezes Dr
Las Vegas

Sahara Transmissions

5750 E Sahara Ave Ste 100
Las Vegas

Salmon Electric

4438 Mitchell Street

Schematic Electric LLC

PO Box 97822
Las Vegas

SG Electric

3585 South Highland suite #54
Las Vegas

Solar Home

231 W Horizon Ridge Pkwy, Suite 2926

Sound Tech Video Engineering Inc.

4375 E.Sahara
Las Vegas

Stability Home Protection

Door #115 8850 South Maryland Parkway
Las Vegas

Star Energy Construction Inc

4660 SE Ave
Las Vegas

Summerlin Energy, LLC

3399 W Oquendo Rd.
Las Vegas

Sweet A/V

1612 glen rosa


3111 s.valley view
Las Vegas

Synergy Companies LLC

7260 W Azure Dr
Las Vegas

Task Electric LLC

3221 little stream st

TBM Electric


TD Powersports

6969 Speedway blvd. ste. 111
Las Vegas


PO BOX 6778

TempRite Air Conditioning & Heating LLC

1111 Mary Crest Rd. Suite O

The Battery Source North Las Vegas

2625 E Craig Road E
North Las Vegas


2750 Pinewood ave.

Tom's Improve & Repair

2580 Anthem Village Dr


81 E. Hickory

Two And A Half Handymen

2204 Isabelle Ave
Las Vegas


5073 S Arville St.
Las Vegas

Vegas Painters The Professionals

2840 S Jones Blvd
Las Vegas

Vegas Pro Electrical Services

3340 Wynn Rd Ste B
Las Vegas




12637 S 265 W Suite 100

We Mount TVs

Las Vegas

Whippco Electric, LLC

3999 Dean Martin Dr.
Las Vegas

Whitebear Home Repair

3657 E Colton Ave
Las Vegas

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