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was very responsive and a great guy. Did this job the same day I called him and kept me updated as to when he would be here. Did a great" job replacing the drain pipe which was probably original to this 1960s house! He will be our go-to plumbing servicer!

-Stephanie H.

was prompt and well-prepared for the task. He took the time to discuss the problem with us and informed us as to what he planned to do. " He was courteous, professional, and careful as he worked.

-Karen Y.

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Angie's Answers


First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.


Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.


From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
It is usually cheaper to remove part of the ceiling below and patch it after the leak has been repaired.  Remember that water can travel before settling in one area, causing the spot you've seen.  Just because it is below the toilet does not mean that the toilet is the problem.  The cheapest option is to pull the toilet and check the floor around the wax ring to see if it has been leaking.  A new wax ring only costs a few dollars.  When was the last time you caulked the shower in that bathroom?  The water can leak around the corners or at the door (if you have one) and travel along the floor joists until it pools in a lower spot on the ceiling below, then seep through.  It could also be a seal at the drain of the tub or shower. 

I get a few calls a year for this sort of thing.  It's usually something simple but can be a nightmare to diagnose, especially if the problem is intermittent.  Start with the simple possibilities and use deductive reasoning to narrow the possibilities.  Before you do a lot of damage it may pay off to hire a reputable contractor to help you make sure you've exhausted all of the imple and more obvious possibilities.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Cleaning reviews in Santa Fe


I called and left a message. My call was returned quickly. I said that my basement had flooded, and my sump pump had stopped working. I was trying to see if something was clogging it, so I poked a mop handle into the well and disconnected the float. The pump would work if I manually turned it off and on. I didn't leave it on without being there. When I talked to
Santa Fe Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
, he said that he was at a job but would call on his way here. He did. When he arrived, he looked at my water heater first. It's less than 2 years old, and the wire from the electronic sparker was disconnected. He fixed that and got it lit. (Thank you for a hot shower!)
He checked the sump pump. He said he could reattach the float, but the pump itself was only working part of the time. He explained how it worked and where all this water was coming from. He gave me a replacement cost and could do it right then. I said yes.
I have lived here less than 2 years so I have no idea how old that pump was, and this is the first house I've ever lived in with a sump pump. I had him do the job. He had one with him. (With all the flooding the past month, I'm sure I wasn't his first call.) He did it quickly, and I had to chuckle when he asked if I had a broom to sweep up the "crumbs" on the floor where he had sawed the connector pipe. (The basement is still full of flood-soaked things and is a mess.)
He was very professional, fast, answered all my questions, explained things I didn't know, and when he left I felt like I not only had hot water and a potentially dry basement, but a lot more knowledge about my house.
- Teresa G.

Plumbing technician,
Santa Fe Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
arrived within 15 minutes. He was very courteous, neatly dressed and very knowledgeable! he checked out the disposal, figured out the problem and got it to work again! Thank goodness we didn't need a new disposal! Very Happy !
- Sylvia H.

The showed up in the time frame promised. Showed him (
Santa Fe Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
) where the clean-out is located and he went right to work. Took about a half hour to do the job. Ran the "snake" twice once dry, and once with the water running in the drain. Clean-up after the job was completed.
- Doo Kett S.

Easy as pie - arrived on time, unclogged two spots in a rain drain and put everything back together. We used a big deal and were happy with the work.

He did a nice job and cleaned up after himself. He was cautious of my time limits. He was very courteous and good customer service.
- Toni V.

First, it took a while to contact Mr.
Santa Fe Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
as he was working in a non-service area for a day. As soon as he heard my problem, he was there in three hours. He had the right equipment and knowledge to see what was going on or rather what was not going on. I watched the rotor rooter machine do its thing and after finding the blockage, he flushed the entire system twice to make sure it was really clean. He wiped down the basement floor all around the spot. He was there approximately two hours, doing work the whole time and only charged $99. I have used him to install plumbing for a dishwasher in my daughter's house, my other daughter used him to replace a leaking disposal, and he has helped me with other pesky plumbing problems. He always wears shoe covers and is pleasant.
- Marilyn H.

It went really well. This is not the first time I have used this company for plumbing problems. The plumber is a very polite gentleman, who doesn't say much. Most of the talking is done by his apprentice. However, the job was accomplished and I was very pleased. The only objection I have is the cost of the service. I thought it was a little high. That being said, I was very pleased with the service provided.
- Lea B.

Prompt, courteous, knowledgeable. Assessed the problem and found an immediate solution and got the issues completely cleared up. The Best!
- Tom N.

Drain Cleaning Companies in Santa Fe, NM

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!


P.O. BOX 36631

A & L Mechanical

10217 Guadiana Place SW

A B Plumbing

2931 Vassar Dr Ne

Abel Plumbing and Heating

2500 Garfield Ave SE

Aberdeen Construction LLC

5901-j Wyoming Blvd NE #145

ABQFLSC Absolute Mechanical

10256 Rempas Dr NW

AHP Services LLC

9613 Trumbull ave ne

Air One Cooling and Heating

10111 Constitution NE

Albuquerque Plumbing Heating & Cooling

6145 2nd St NW
Los Ranchos

Albuquerque Repair Svc

125 Candelaria Rd NW


p.o.box 6561

American Precision Remodeling

1124 Mc Kee Dr NE

Amity Plumbing & Heating

1538 Parsifal St NE


3 Belcher Dr.

Apollo Pipeworks Inc.

69 Taylor Loop
Santa Fe

Aranda Plumbing & Heating Inc

602 Cortez St
Santa Fe


P.O. Box 10477

Austin Plumbing Drain and Gas

3103 Sierra Ne

B & A Industries, LLC

1701 William St SE

Baker Plumbing & Heating

2701 1st.st.

Black Bear Mechanical

51 Camino El Alto NE


3800 Garcia St. NE

Budget Climate Control

924 Ocate Meadows Dr
Rio Rancho

CaitCo Drainworks

1589 San Mateo Lane
Santa Fe

Caitco Drainworks Inc

8418 Washington St NE


PO BOX 2727
Santa Fe

Cartwright's Plumbing Heating

7510 Mallard Way
Santa Fe

D & J Pipe Specialist

2917 Carlisle Blvd N.E Suite 210

D & R Services

2929 coors blvd

DB Plumbing & Heating

916 Sunset Rd SW

DJ's Plumbing & Mechanical LLC

11705 Phoenix Ave NE

Donner Plumbing & Heating, Inc.

107 Candelaria Rd NW

Drain Surgeon

PO Box 28533
Santa Fe

Duke City Plumbing & Sewer Service

26 Crestview Ln

Eagerton Plumbing Co Inc

1093 N Mcduff Ave


Santa Fe

EJS Refrigeration, Plumbing & Heating LLC

763 Seaborn Dr. S.W.

Elite Plumbing & Heating Inc.,

4504 67th St NW

EM Plumbing Heating Mech.

5113 Lomas De Atrisco



INDOOR COMFORT - Residential Services

7820 Enchanted Hills Blvd
Rio Rancho

James Plumbing & Heating Inc

1159 Coriander Rd
Santa Fe

John Bugas Plumbing

6 Torneo Rd
Santa Fe

John Hawkins Construction

8 Frasco Pl
Santa Fe

Jones Mechanical

PO Box 15573
Rio Rancho

Leonard's 24-Hour Service

30 Calle Manana



Marathon Mechanical Services LLC

8315 R C Gorman Ave NE



McCarthy HVAC

6101 Sequoia Dr NW

P3 Plumbing

PO Box 12324

Pat's Mechanical

11 Tunnel Springs Rd

Peoples Plumbing & Heating

335 San Pedro NE

Perfection Plumbing LLC

5420 Territorial Rd NW

Petroglyph Plumbing & Heating Inc

8248 Meadowbrook Ave NW
Arenas Valley


59 County Rd 84B
Santa Fe

Plumbing Mechanical Company

PO Box 22174
Santa Fe

Plumbing New Mexico

10586 New Mexico 337

Pojoaque Septic Service

12 Sombra De Jose
Santa Fe


5904 Edith Blvd NE

R&R Heating & Air

731 Rankin Rd Ne

Reddi Services Albuquerque

4725 Lumber Ave Northeast

Reputable Plumbing & Heating

PO Box 1053

Roadrunner A/C, Heating & Plumbing

3200 Calle Marie
Sante Fe

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

731 Rankin Rd NE

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

7510 Mallard Way
Santa Fe

Salazar Heating Cooling & Plumbing

1118 Don Juan St.
Santa Fe

Santa Fe Express Plumbing and Drain

2542 Camino estribo
Santa Fe

Silverado Plumbing & Heating Co., Inc.

116 Mountain Park Place NW

Simmons Plumbing & Heating Co

6312 Jo Ann Pl NE

Sol Plumbing & Heating

Avenger way
Santa Fe

The Plumber

8208 Fruit Ave NE

The Sunny Plumber

2551 N Dragoon St, Ste 157

Tim's Handyman services

12201 Lomas Blvd. NE.

TLC Plumbing & Utility

5000 Edith Blvd NE

Ultimate Plumbing & Drain Svc

12521 Crestline Ave Ne


PO BOX 29690
Santa Fe

US Home Renovation LLC

6201 2nd St NW


1608 4TH ST
Santa Fe

Wagner Mechanical

7900 Jacs Lane NE

Wrangler Plumbing and Heating

3426 Vassar B

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