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A
" prepared the most comprehensive and understandable bid we have every seen. We knew exactly what was going to do." (we've done several remodeling jobs in this and earlier homes; so we have a fair idea of what constitutes a good bid specification.) The crew was great: prompt, hard working, and personable. (If you were in a crawl space working for many days, could you say the same.) The crew took great care to minimize any damage or dirt coming into the house. This was really important, since they had to access the crawl space through a fairly long run from the garage, thru the laundry room, a hallway, the master bedroom, the master bath, and finally to the crawl space entrance in the master closet. The only nit was the 7th day of work when the crew only had four hours of work left. management called the crew away to handle an "emergency", and they really mystified us -- still does. Aside from that and their employees provided excellent service at a very fair price, especially considering everything they had to do. I highly recommend this company to anyone who has a home with drainage issues.

-Janet B.

A
"Without him, we would have had no idea what was needed or how to do it, but it turned out the task was something we could easily do ourselves with his clear instructions." We will definitely contact him again when we have a larger job.

-BARBARA N.

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Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

You have not said how old your house is, what normal water line life in your area is, whether it is leaking under the foundation or under the yard, etc. Cost depends a great deal on length of run, depth to dig to get below frost line, whether excavation will be through trees or other obstructions or open area, whether ground along route is too steep for a backhoe to work on, etc.

The first thing you really need to figure out is whether this is a spot repair issue, or a total line replacement issue. Your plumber should be able to help with that determination.  Very general rule of thumb - very old line from before 80's, if galvanized pipe, could be at its practical life and be ready for total replacement. Copper line generally last about 50-70 years UNLESS in a corrosive soil environment or if it has groundwater flowing actively past it, then can be 20-30 years. Plastic lines from the 60's to 80's vary a lot - from as little as 10 years to 50 plus dependingon brand. Plastic lines (PVC, HDPE, PE) from the 80's and later are expected to last 50-100 years - most have not failed yet, so no good handle on how long they will last.

An above-ground or under the slab line a plumber will do. Buried line outside he generally subcontracts to an excavator to dig and backfill the line, or asks you to get the excavation done.

 

If section needing replacement is under your floor slab or foundation, then a full replacement can be many thousands of $ depending on how many linear feet, and if interior flooring will have to be replaced or if you are on a bare concrete slab or bringing the new line in above-ground once you get through the foundation. A simple one-spot buried pipe repair (based on acoustic locating and precisely measuring the location of the problem) can be as little as $400 but probably more often $1000 or so - more if poor access like under a slab underneath stairs.

If the runs to be replaced are exposed in a crawl space or basement than it can run as little as $20/LF (probably $400 minimum job cost) to replace.

 

Outside line to the street can run from as little as $10/LF in areas where the pipe is shallow (no annual frost penetration) and in easy digging soil, to $250/LF or more if deeply buried, have to excavate through trees and heavy roots or boulders, steep topography, other utility interferences etc. Generally not more than $50/LF. Commonly, instead of digging up the old line, they select a new semi-parallel route from a good connection point for you existing interior water lines at the foundation (maybe not where it currently comes in, depoending on access) to the street main shutoff valve (called a "key box", taking a route between them that is easiest to get a backhoe into and minimizes destruction of valuable plantings or trees. A number of $50/LF is commonly tossed around as "normal" for this type of job, if exceeding 100 feet or so and digging and access conditions are normal.

If your connection is in the middle of the street rather than along your side in the yard, that can easily add $2-5,000 to the job, as the water utility usually has to do that part, and repair the street afterwards. In a major throughway street, even more because of traffic control, multi-agency permits, etc.

 

As always, find 2-3 responsible, well-recommended (Anglie's List ?) contractors, and then get bids. The route I would go is first go with your regular plumber to locate the leak (probably acoustically, by listening for the leak) and determine the scope of work needed, then if major, go for multiple bids.

 

?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

?
FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
www.thomeservices.com

Drain Pipe Installation reviews in Rio Rancho

A

Rating
scheduled an appointment for the estimate and was here promptly. The estimate was reasonable. He's a busy guy (a good sign), so there was some time before the work started. The crew completed the project within the time expected and according to plan. I have recommended his service to others.
- Charles S.
A

Rating
The job was more difficult for them than they anticipated it to be. The drain pipe was 4 inches away from our line.
So they couldn't use the machine that goes in through the drain pipe itself. Yet, they were prepaired, had to do more labor- but kept me in the know and was verry nice about it! I liked the fact they ...More were a family business.
- Mark F.
B

Rating
This is the third time we have used this company for basement leaks. Previously they had worked on the crack in the walls with resultant leaks with heavy rains. the owner inspected the job and submitted a fair offer. He was also willing to redue previous work they had done five years earlier. We were scheduled out about 2 ...More months and a check for 1/2 the job was written. At about the time of the proposed start of the job, I spoke with who was responsible for scheduling. He stated that he wanted to keep the guys working outside and that he would schedule us for a rainy day. A month passed and no rainy days at least when we were available. Meanwhile, everything had been moved around the basement making room for their work. Finally after speaking with and insisting on a definite date, he came through and the date was set 5 days later. To 's credit, he apologized for the delay and stated that he would not be scheduling again for any rainy days for inside jobs. Everyone would be given a specific start date. The job was completed in a little over a day. Excellent work, cleanup and punctuality.
- Larry M.
A

Rating
i needed advice for a few concerns around my house. called and spoke to scheduler who was very helpful and said they could fit me in that same day. technician arrived on time and we discussed my potential projects. he said although he could do what i was asking for, it wasn't really necessary and he didn't want me waste money. i really ...More appreciate that! he gave me several options for another project and wrote down the estimate and brand (which i knew to be the best brand available) he would provide. advised me about upgrading a problematic faucet. company has been around for a long time and i can see why :)
- sharon H.
A

Rating
was great about coming out (twice) to consult with me about the scope of the work. He kept me updated a few weeks out from the project, then called a few times before the work started to let me know that we were still on schedule. He would tell me when he was going to call me, then he would actually do it! Wow, how often does ...More that happen? We had a little communication gap the morning he came but in fairness he did try to call me that morning and my phone is programmed to not ring that early. It turned out to be fine and everyone was very polite (with the exception of some grumpiness on my part initially).
The two men that were working this job were very polite and conscientious and seemed very knowledgable. They cared about what they were doing and wanted to do it right. They added the new window well at my request once they got on the job and then decided that it needed to be a larger one than the one they brought out and came back the next day to put that in.
Having foundation work done is never fun and can be stressful when you have water coming in your basement. These guys made it about as good an experience as it could be. Not a fun way to spend money but at least I felt like I was in good hands.
I gave them a B on the price but I'm not sure if it is a good price or not. The reality is that no one wants to spend money on stuff like foundation work and maybe the price rating should have been an "A". I got one other bid and it was a tad lower but the other guy was so abrasive that I decided that I didn't want him in my home. Both companies had a good reputation but If I am going to give someone my hard-earned money, I want it to be to someone nice! I would highly recommend !
- MARK J.
B

Rating
Owner is very knowledgeable.
Trenching and installation of French drains went well as did cutting through , replacing valves and installing additional heads.
A few issues were communication with owner following above listed work as he had a gutter company come and install downspout (they did a great job) but never ...More knew when (or if) they would come. Other issue was their placement of sod over the trenches. Yard is pretty bumpy, but next summer will tell if it smooths out after grass grows. Also not sure if basins are at the correct level. grandkids would probably have a problem running around yard due to high and low spots.
All in all I think they did what I wanted. Time will tell. Pretty sure draining issue is fixed.
- Alden H.
N

Rating
Excellent quality work - very pleased! The project manager was very good and the workers did a fine job! Price was at the top end, but the outcome of the job supported the cost for us.

Getting to contract was much more difficult than we've experienced with all other services. We had to speak directly with the owner about getting to ...More acceptable contract terms - a target start date, target completion date, agreement of completion criteria - as the initial contract was too open-ended and provider-favorable at the start. We did get to contract, but came close to walking away Recommend that the owner take a look at the contracts that other services provide and to not treat customers like they are going to cheat him from the start.

We would let them bid on more work for us, but would definitely look around for a provider that is easier to do business with.
- Gary S.
A

Rating
came out and assessed my situation. He took the time to listen to my needs and asked questions to help make a recommendation. He proposed an idea that I had not considered for my sewer tie in. Several years earlier I waterproofed the foundation and I really did not want to disturb that work. I also had landscaping around ...More the house that would be ruined. suggested that he could drill (horizontal bore) under the house. This would keep the about 10 feet away from the house. This method cost a little more, but was well worth it. After the drilling, he popped a hole in the basement floor and slid in the pipe. Very professional, prompt and courteous. They also cleaned up very well.
- Michael S.

Drain Pipe Contractors in Rio Rancho, NM

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

3J'S PLUMBING&HEATING,INC.

P.O. BOX 36631
Albuquerque

A & G Mechanical, Inc

104 Colorado Mountain Rd NE
Rio Rancho

A & L Mechanical

10217 Guadiana Place SW
Albuquerque

A.B.Honest1 plumbing heating & cooling llc

6500 palacio dr sw
Albuquerque

ABA Industries LLC

PO Box 36714
Albuquerque

Abel Plumbing and Heating

2500 Garfield Ave SE
Albuquerque

ABQFLSC Absolute Mechanical

10256 Rempas Dr NW
Albuquerque

Advanced American Construction

467 Old Church Rd
Corrales

AL Heating & Air Conditioning

Po Box 6629
Albuquerque

Albuquerque Plumbing Heating & Cooling

6145 2nd St NW
Los Ranchos

ANCAE INC HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING

4616 Mcleod NE
Albuquerque

B & A Industries, LLC

1701 William St SE
Albuquerque

B Carlson Heating Air Conditioning & Plumbing

8625 Paseo Alameda
Albuquerque

BALLEW INC

3-A Bisbee Lane
Santa Fe

BNG ENTERPRISES INC

3800 Garcia St. NE
Albuquerque

Brent's HVACR and Plumbing

3100 Pan American Freeway NE
Albuquerque

CaitCo Drainworks

1589 San Mateo Lane
Santa Fe

Central Plumbing LLC

10420 Griffon Drive NW
Albuquerque

Courtesy Plumbing Heating & A/C Inc

5801 Jefferson St NE
Albuquerque

CROCKER LTD

2019 Galisteo St Ste N10A
Santa Fe

D B Plumbing & Heating

916 Sunset Rd S W
Albuquerque

David Holdren LLC

8400 Menaul Blvd NE
Albuquerque

DJ's Plumbing & Mechanical LLC

11705 Phoenix Ave NE
Albuquerque

Donner Plumbing & Heating, Inc.

107 Candelaria Rd NW
Albuquerque

DUB-L-EE LLC

13 Old Rd SE
Albuquerque

E2RC

439 South Hill Road
Bernalillo

EM Plumbing Heating Mech.

5113 Lomas De Atrisco
Albuquerque

FAMILY PLUMBING , HEATING & REFRIGERATION

6305 FORSYTHE SW
Albuquerque

FIX RIGHT LLC

642 Pecos Looop SE
Rio Rancho

Four Star Mechanical

7820 Snowberry St NW
Albuquerque

Golden G Plumbing & Heating

9908 Teton Pl NW
Albuquerque

Highland Landscaping LLC

109 Alero Cir
Rio Rancho

Jerry's Plumbing & Sewer Service

2835 Dakota Street NE
Albuquerque

Jones Mechanical

PO Box 15573
Rio Rancho

JP Plumbery

PO Box 30785
Albuquerque

Landmark Landscapes of NM

P.O. Box 30635
Albuquerque

Leonard's 24-Hour Service

30 Calle Manana
Belen

Lobo Plumbing and Heating

4400 Purple Sage
Albuquerque

Masonry Structures Inc

131 Daniel Rd NW
Albuquerque

Milligan Scapes

8032 Edith Blvd NE
Albuquerque

Mountain Top Mechanical

6310 Edith Blvd NE
Albuquerque

Narrow Leaf Inc

100 El Pueblo Rd NW
Albuquerque

Number One Plumbing & Air Conditioning, LLC

1230 Mechenbier Ln SW
Albuquerque

P3 Plumbing

PO Box 12324
Albuquerque

Pat's Mechanical

11 Tunnel Springs Rd
Placitas

Peoples Plumbing & Heating

335 San Pedro NE
Albuquerque

Perfection Plumbing LLC

5420 Territorial Rd NW
Albuquerque

Prestige Builders Inc

517 Aztec Rd NW
Albuquerque

Property Doctors

P.O.Box 65464
Albuquerque

PSR & M

PO Box 1125
Tijeras

R C SEPTIC INSTLTN & REPAIR

131 BOWERS RD SW
Albuquerque

R&R Heating & Air

731 Rankin Rd Ne
Albuquerque

Rodgers Plumbing and Heating Co Inc

1570 Bridge Blvd SW
Albuquerque

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

731 Rankin Rd NE
Albuquerque

Santa Fe Express Plumbing and Drain

2542 Camino estribo
Santa Fe

Silverado Plumbing & Heating Co., Inc.

116 Mountain Park Place NW
Albuquerque

Simmons Plumbing & Heating Co

6312 Jo Ann Pl NE
Albuquerque

Sol Plumbing & Heating

Avenger way
Santa Fe

South West Empire Plumbing LLC

1 Cabezon
Rio Rancho

Southwest Construction Services

PO Box 67526
Albuquerque

Specialized Plumbing & Heating

8415 Trotter
Albuquerque

Super Mario Drywall LLC

1916 San Martin Pl NW
Albuquerque

The Plumber

8208 Fruit Ave NE
Albuquerque

TLC Plumbing & Utility - Albuquerque

5000 Edith Blvd NE
Albuquerque

TLC Plumbing & Utility - Santa Fe

2532 Camino Entrada
Santa Fe

Town & Country Plumbing Heating Cooling LLC

4313 San Pedro Dr NE
Albuquerque

Treetop Landscaping

2416 Red Polard Ct NW
Albuquerque

Two J'S Plumbing & Heating

692 Baltic ave SE
Rio Rancho

US Home Renovation LLC

6201 2nd St NW
Albuquerque

VALDEZ PLUMBING & HEATING

1608 4TH ST
Santa Fe

Wes Pro Plumbing

P.O. Box 27588
Albuquerque

Wilson Waterworks

3167 San Mateo NE
Albuquerque

Wrangler Plumbing and Heating

3426 Vassar B
Albuquerque

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