The Environmental Protection Agency is requiring renovators and remodelers to be certified on lead-safe work practices by 2010.
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Local Articles in Rockaway
Dear Angie: What’s involved in restoring and staining a grayed-out fence? – Srinivasa V., Plano, Texas
Life seems to pass by more quickly these days. It feels like every time I turn around, I find something that needs to be fixed, maintained or replaced.
Quality materials and proper application can make all the difference when it comes so staining your fence.
That's very difficult to answer without seeing the house. As one poster said, the prep is the most important part. On newer homes that don't have a lot of peeling paint, the prep can be very minimal even as low as a couple or a few hundred dollars for the prep labor.
On a 100 year old home with 12 coats of peeling paint on it, then the prep costs can be very high and can easily exceed 50% of the job's labor cost.
A 2100 sq ft two story home could easily cost $1000 just for the labor to prep for the paint job. That number could climb too. Throw in lots of caullking or window glazing, and you could be talking a couple or a few hundred dollars more for labor.
Painting that home with one coat of paint and a different color on the trim could run roughly $1000 or more just for labor. Add a second coat and that could cost close to another $1000 for labor.
For paint, you may need 20 gallons of paint. You can pay from $30-$70 for a gallon of good quality exterior paint. The manufacturer of the paint should be specified in any painting contract. Otherwise, the contractor could bid at a Sherwin-Williams $60 per gallon paint and then paint the house with $35 Valspar and pocket the difference. $25 dollars per gallon times 20 gallons? That's a pretty penny too.
That was the long answer to your question. The short answer is $2000 to $4000 and up, depending upon the amount of prep, the number of coats, the amount of trim, and the paint used.
Remember, you not only have to remove the popcorn texture, but also redo the ceiling in some other texture.
Price will depend on several factors:
1) how much the contractor you choose hates removing popcorn or textured ceilings - some charge $1 or so/SF extra just because they hate it. There are even some who bid total drywall replacement cheaper than removing the popcorn, so you have to first find contractors who are happy to do that work, or your prices will be out of the realistic range
2) if the popcorn predates about 1990, then it could likely have asbestos in it, which doubles or triples the price, and in many cases uncapsulating it with a spray coating and then removing the drywall entirely is actually cheaper than all the protective measures necessary if it is scraped off.
3) whether the popcorn is primarily gypsum and vermiculite (comes off REAL easy) or was the plaster of paris variety, which takes a fair amount of soaking to soften it enough to scrape off
4) what type of finish you are replacing it with - if a textured ceiling, slapcoat, knockdown finish or paneling, not real problem. If you want to go with a perfectly smooth ceiling (generally a bad idea as any variations in the drywall on a ceiling surface really shows up dramatically), then it will demand a lot of care in preparing the scraped surface, and a complete surface drywall compound skim coat to smooth out the scrapes and gouges from the removal process.
5) what underlying conditions are - if there is a lot of furniture to move around (should go to adjacent rooms) or cover and work around, high-quality rug or hardwood floor to super-protect or such, will drive cost up.
I have seen costs run from as low as $0.60/SF to $1.25/SF (for removal only). Generally, remove and recoat with a surface texture of some kind (anything but smooth) and paint will run you about $2.50-3.50/SF.
Now the bad news - if asbestos containing, can run from $5-10/SF. Many homeowners in that situation go the other legal route - have it encapsulated with an asbestos-rated sealant by an asbestos contractor, then paint it and leave it for the next homeowner to decide what to do about it. Some contractors encapsulate it and then put a 1/4" thick drywall layer over it - this usually looks like a disaster unless it has a VERY rough textured finish on it, because putting drywall sheet over a rough surface like popcorn invariably means a wavy surface commonly looks like a gently rolling ocean surface.
Our companie's policy is to prime the area with any bonding primer. This will seal the hairspray in and not let it affect the next coat of paint. It would also be a good idea to lightly sand the area first.
Our recommendation for primer would be Zinsser's BIN Spray (red can) and can be bought at most paint stores or home improvement stores. Other than that, any thing that specifically says "bonding" for a primer should be adequate enough.
Some other 1 coat coverage paints you could use would be Sherwin Williams Duration, and Behr Ultra Premium Plus.
Hope this helps!
I have a couple suggestions - My first would have been to contact the paint manufacturer - whether it's sherwin williams, benjamin moore, behr, etc. to see if they would send a rep out to give their recommendation. We have done this before starting a project to get the best possible recommendation for work to be done and have found them to be very helpful in diagnosing what is currently going on and the best way to fix it.
If that doesn't work, I would call either the better business bureau or maybe the local paper if your contractor isn't willing to work through the problem with you. Also, If your contractor warrantied the work I might re-read that to see what they cover if anything.
My guess is that there will have to be some sort of dispute resolution process.
Hope this helps!
House Painting reviews in Rockaway
Our insurance company adjusters came and found a great deal of damage that
Next, we hired a mold remediation group, as required by the insurance company. The remediation people immediately removed the wall and ceiling damage, which was extensive. This work was completed by the end of June. After this, I hired an insulation specialist to foam insulate the walls, which was done promptly and well (I gave them a great review!).
After that, there were many communications with our
Whenever I complain or question the inaction, the manager has an excuse and (quite frequently) tries to blame me. For instance,
moved forward, at the start of the project. However, they did not obtain a work permit until late September, warning me the entire time that there could be trouble getting the permit, and stating that the foam insulator should have done that (although
a 11 ft. beam on ceiling at living room," with no itemization for materials and labor.
Now it is October 2015, and they claim to be acting, but have taken over 2 weeks to obtain quotes for putting in insulation, and no work whatsoever is scheduled, such as plumbing, painting the intact wall of our family room and entrance, or carpentry.
Meanwhile there is another issue. Because of the size of the job, our homeowner’s insurance and CHASE Bank require a signature on a form for me to get the rest of the insurance payment, in order to pay
Next, I emailed
Prior to our signing a contract with
The first thing we see on entering the house is the powder room toilet and sink in the entry hall, sitting on a plastic sheet. The house is cold, as without a continuous ceiling, the warm air rises to the attic and out the attic vents. Since we had to clear the rooms for the "painting," out belongings have been squeezed into our daughter's bedrooms, so that only the beds can be used. Recently the temperature dropped to 38 degrees, and we are worried about our pipes freezing before long, for a job we contracted for last March 2015... This is not what we expected from a highly rated Angie's List rated contractor.
As we were choosing contractors to bid on the work, we got a flyer from bid too low, one bid too high and
The work started on a Thursday with a light power wash. They did most of the prep work on Saturday. They would have started painting on Monday, but it rained, so they started on Tuesday. They finished on Saturday. They started about 9:00 each day and were done between 3:00 and 5:00. They cleaned up each day and stored their ladders in our backyard. They had a team of four guys who did the work. All of them were very polite and professional.
I am a detail person and when I paint, I am very precise. The
Communication was good. They responded promptly by text or phone when I had questions.
We have no complaints and can't think of anywhere they need to improve. All around it was a good experience.
Good luck to
Exterior Painters in Rockaway, NJ
South Bound Brook
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