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Paramus Lawn Mower Repair Shops from people just like you.

"Friendly and professional. I was prepared to leave the mower. But he looked at the mower immediately to diagnose the problem and fixed it in the process. Great service. Highly recommend.

-Patrick W.

"Filed a police report. Owner refused to give his card. Noted he would replace the plant, then said he would not. He relayed the same information to the police officer on 9/10 via phone

-scott R.

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Local Articles in Paramus

Lawn mower repair

The average suburban lawn mower is a true workhorse, but you might not be maintaining it as well as you should. Here are some practical tips on troubleshooting common problems, how to make some lawn mower repairs yourself and how to maintain your mower so it keeps performing well year after year.

trimming weeds
Lawn & Yard Work, Landscaping, Lawn Fertilization & Treatment, Lawn Irrigation, Lawn Mower & Power Tool Repair, Landscaping & Lighting, Landscaping - Hardscaping & Pavers, Landscaping - Lakefront, Roto-Tilling, Tree Service

Ready to get your hands dirty? It's time to say goodbye to Old Man Winter and reacquaint yourself with Mother Nature ...

lawn mower side by side clean and dirty air filters
Lawn Mower & Power Tool Repair, Lawn & Yard Work

Lawn mower won't start after a long winter? Clogged air filters or bad spark plugs may be to blame for lawn mower problems at start of the mowing season.

A man starting a push lawnmower
Lawn Mower & Power Tool Repair

Whether it's sharpening blades or getting a professional tuneup, follow these maintenance tips to help your mower run longer.

Lawn & Yard Work, Lawn Mower & Power Tool Repair

It's time to get reel. Manual mowers might be a smart choice for small yards and level terrain.

Angie's Answers


The only time a carburator needs replacing is if you put some really corrosive cleaner in it that ate through the metal (usually aluminum), or if you have physically broken it.

Otherwise, carbs can be rebuilt - rebuild kits (that contain basically all the non-metallic parts, the primer bulb (usually) and carb gaskets) typically run $10-25. A tuneup (carb rebuild and new spark plug) with parts typically runs about $60-80 ($100-150 for rider mowers), although a lot of repair shops have $45-60 spring specials. Probably needs a sharpening too - another $10-15 or so when done as part of a tune-up.

By hiring someone to do it, I presume you mean taking it to a small engine repair shop with a good word of mouth reputation, and being sure to get a dropoff receipt and estimate in writing that you carry away with you.

If it runs at all, or ran last fall, this is probably all you need.

Compare this to the cost of a new mower - for a rider mower, no comparison of course - go with the carb cleaning and rebuild. However, for a standard 20-22 inch push power mower, replacement cost is about $140-250, depending on whether you go with a Walmart special or brand name, additional $100 or so if self-propelled or bagging type.

For a 10 year old push type power mower, if it sits outside all winter or is pretty rusty, since you are not mechanically inclined I would recommend getting a new mower - something like a Sears or Murray Ohio (at Target, WalMart, etc) plain-jane mower for about $150-180 unless you have steep hills or medical issues, then get the self-propelled model. A 20 inch or even 18 inch will do fine for a small lawn; if you have several lawns or a pretty big lawn area (over say 2500 SF) then you probably want a 22 inch - the extra path width makes quite a difference in how long it takes to mow.

If it sleeps in a shed or garage and is not rusting out, I would recommend a new one if the plain jane will do it for you, otherwise if the replacement one that you would buy is over about $250 I would go with the carb overhaul and tuneup.

I would STRONGLY recommend you get a 4 cycle engine - I swear by Briggs and Stratton rather than Tecumseh or other brands. 4 cycles start much easier and are less sensitive to fuel/air mix issues, and the plugs stay clean a lot longer. 2 cycles are lighter for the same horsepower which is why you see them a lot in outboard motors that are less than about 50-80 HP and in small generators and motorcycles, but they are a lot more tempermental about starting, especially in cold weather or after a long storage.

If you pay attention to proper winter storage procedure, rebuilding the carb on the old one should last you another 5+ years. I have a Murray Ohio with 4 cycle Briggs and Stratton engine that is 33 years old, lives in an unheated shed in a northern state, and has had nothing more than annual blade sharpening, oil change every few years, and one carb overhaul and plug cleaning (and ZERO new spark plugs) in its life, and starts by second pull every spring. The key is if you store it inside in a garage to run it dry each fall (so you do not have gas in the garage, for safety reasons in case it leaks out); if you leave it outside I fill the tank to the top so moisture cannot acccumulate from moist air "breathing" in and out of the tank due to temperature changes. I do this with mower, chain saw, leaf blower, weed wacker - all start on first or second pull in the spring (and throughout the summer). If you live in an area with a lot of moisture in the winter air (ours is very dry) you might have to add Heet or Sta-Bil to the fuel can (per instructions) before topping off tank.

You will find other people who say you HAVE to run it dry each season. Their theory is that if there is no gas in it then there is no gas to collect moisture or to evaporate and turn to varnish over the winter (though that generally takes a few years of sitting to happen). My theory is if it is filled with fuel it cannot dry out and leave varnish residue to block the fuel tube screen and fuel jets, plus it does not rust metal fuel tanks by being empty. To each their own procedure.


No personal experience on rider mowers but some with small rider tractors, but since you have gotten no response in 5 days, here is my 2 cents worth:


1) read the Consumer Reports and JD Powers reviews on rider mowers


2) from what neighbors have told me, TroyBilt are maintenance problem and not built very rugged, Sears tend to have transmission/drive train problems, those with John Deere say they were unhappy with the price but they run well and don't have extreme maintenance costs - so sounds to me like JD is best brand out there right now.


3) A recommendation also from personal small engine experience and neighbors - stay with Briggs and Stratton 4 cycle engines if possible, and stay away from 2 cycle engines - they are lighter and cheaper, but have a LOT more starting problems and tend to not last as long.

With you not saying what this is on - could be portable device or very small rider mower - check oill level - some fancier ones on air compressors and pressure washers and rider mowers have oil monitor that shuts it off if oil pressure does not build up. Failed governor spring (rare - would be one of my last guesses) can do this, but when I had it happen the engine ran up to speed and died in only a second or two - not 8 seconds. Governor linkage usually an external metal rod with springs connecting to the carb - try watching it during the 8 seconds to see if it is yanking the throttle/choke setting back causing it to shut down. Also check to be sure not blocked by twig or leaves or such. I would check the plug after it dies - if wet then you are pretty sure you are getting fuel, if dry then maybe it is only getting fuel from manual priming or automatic choke, but then the choke is cutting out and starving the engine for fuel. IF your model has accessible automatic choke linkage (or if choke plate is accessible if you remove air cleaner), try using a long tool (not fingers, in case of backfire through carb) to adjust choke angle to see if that will make it keep running - if you can see it after taking off air cleaner, it should be staying full on for probably 20-40 seconds before it opens up wide open if temperature contr4olled type, but the engine-speed type open up as soon as engine comes up to speed. Another possibility - check air cleaner to be sure not plugged with dirt - wash (and with many models oil) per owners manual instructions. Another common problem - starts on priming or choke, but when on regular fuel flow leans out and dies due to air leak in fuel line letting air in with fuel, or dirty screen in tank not letting enough fuel in to keep it running. Also, crudded up holes in the tank cap can cause vapor lock by not letting air in to tank to replace fuel consumed - remove and take out inner liner and check holes in liner and metal cap are open so you can see daylight through them. Another possibility - look for debris, etc keeping throttle from opening up - could be idle screw jiggled loose and is set too low. Try screwing it in a half turn or so to see if keeps running - because might be starting on choke but then when choke starts opening up the idle setting is too low so throttle is not open enough to keep it running. If consistently runs 8 seconds and dies, try turning the main needle valve 1/4 turn one way, then if tht does not work back the 1/4 turn plus 1/4 turn the other way (keep track of turns so you know where initial setting is) - if one or other makes better than adjust in that range for smooth running and no flooding or leaning out when you open throttle up.
Hi Maurice,
This is Sarah B. in Member Care. Thanks for your interest in Angie's List!
We'll be happy to help find top rated Lawn Mower & Power Tool Repair providers, but it doesn't look like you have a subscription to the List yet. You can join by visiting www.angieslist.com or by giving us a call. Our call center is available 8:00 am-9:00 pm weekdays and 8:00-5:00 pm ET on Saturdays. If you join online, you can save 20% on an annual plan by using the promo code ANSWERS.
Thanks for your question and we look forward to assisting you, Maurice!

Since it would not start BEFORE you took it in for service, hard to blame them - even if rainfall did get in it, because they would assume when you delivered it that it was in "normal" condition, whjich presumably meant vaent closed. By "vent" on top of the gas tank I am not sure what you mean - a "vent" should not let a lot of water in, but if you mean the filler cap then certainly you would get about as much water depth in the tank as the number of inches of rain you had while it was sitting out.


Another possibility - vent was open during your fall washing down, and wash water got into the tank, which then ended up in the gas can for the winter, then back to the mower in the spring.


Other possibility - your gas can picked up a lot of water over the winter, particuylarly if metal and stored in a location where it could warm up during the day (evaporates gas) then as it cools overnight forms a partial vacuum so it pulls in moist air, which then condenses in the can and settles to the bottom. If using normal pour spout, the first thing out of the can in the spring would be the water (would be first into spout as you pour out), so water from the can might have gone into the mower at first filling.


Another possibility which is amazingly common - little Johnny decides to fuel the mower for you and poured water or bug juice or such in there.


BTW - most fuel stabilizers do NOT trap water - fuel stabilizer put a very thin layear on top of the liquid to retart evaporation, so your gaoline does not turn to diesel or sludge. To trap water and keep it from settling out you need alcohol - like Heet. Also, when draining tank, you should drain the first part into a clear containear (mayonnaise jar or such) then after it has settled a few seconds pour back to the can, leaving the water in the bottom of the jar to be disposed of.

Hi Kyle,
This is Sarah B. in Member Care. Thanks for posting!
I was able to find several rated providers to help you. For your current need though, our Snapfix specialists would also be able to do all of the dialing for you, match you up with a top rated company and arrange to have them call you to figure out the logistics. If this sounds like something you would be interested in, please fill out the form in the link below and our Snapfix Team will take it from there!
If you would like to reach out to these providers yourself, please let me know. I’d be happy to send these to you.  No matter which option you choose, I hope you’ll take the time to fill out a review when the work is done.
If you would like information on providers through this forum, please let us know. You can respond to this thread or submit a new Answers post. You can also reach us at memberservices@angieslist.com . We're happy to help, Kyle!

Lawn Mower Repair reviews in Paramus


I've used them for years. They do a good job. It worked out really well. There were a couple of small things but all in total, it was a good deal for me. Sometimes, they're a little slow. I've never had any trouble with the quality. The quality is always good. Sometimes you have to wait for it.

Paramus Lawn Mower Repair Shops Provider Name Locked
on Angie's list after another provider no longer serves my geography. He came 1 day after we spoke over the phone. On the day of service he called to tell me he was on his way and advised on an updated arrival time than originally planned (not much later than originally planned. Once onsite got right to work, finding that the snow
Paramus Lawn Mower Repair Shops Provider Name Locked
would not start. He fixed that issue right away and did the scheduled maintenance on the lawn mower.
I never felt like he was trying to take advantage of me or get more money out of me.
Paramus Lawn Mower Repair Shops Provider Name Locked
is very conscience and told me if I have any problems that arise on the work he did, he will be back without charge.
I will put him in my home repair list of providers and definitely plan to use him next time I need his service.
- Mark B.

The first time I brought it in was because of a bent blade, it was running fine before I hit a rock and bent the blade. That repair cost me 51.76, it took one week for them to change out the blade. I brought it home to use it and it would not start, I brought it back the same day explained to them what the problem was, the man there told me it was bad gas, It took another week to fix, I picked it up on 8 Sep technician comments states cleaned carborator, bowl gasket and it runs but does not sound good, it started up at the shop, but when I got home to use it, it was the same thing would not start the cost of this repair was 71.45 the parts alone cost 8.50 but the labor was 62.50.
Paramus Lawn Mower Repair Shops Provider Name Locked
only takes cash money, people beware do not go there if you have lawn mower problem find someone else.
- Joseph M.

Showed up first thing in the morning (6:30am). Changed the oil, checked and lubed all belts and moving parts, checked the tire pressure and fully cleaned the machine.
- Adam B.

The quote they provided me when I took the mower in was exactly the charge I expected when I picked the mower up. The repair work was completed quickly and on time. They even assisted me in getting the mower into my care which I was not expecting.
It is obvious they do a large mail order business but th still manage to treat local customers with the ultimate respect and care. Would definitely recommend this company.
- Brian B.

Paramus Lawn Mower Repair Shops Provider Name Locked
tuned up my lawn mower earlier this summer. At first things were fine, but gradually it became harder and harder to start the mower, taking up to 14 pulls of the cord. I was a little disappointed, so I contacted
Paramus Lawn Mower Repair Shops Provider Name Locked
, and he came back the next day. He found that the rubber primer button that I push had a few small perforations in it. This was totally unrelated to his prior work. He replaced the whole carburetor and rubber primer and only charged me a minimal amount. I have started the mower 3 times since then and each time it started on the first pull. thanks
Paramus Lawn Mower Repair Shops Provider Name Locked
and I will be calling you to tune up my snow
Paramus Lawn Mower Repair Shops Provider Name Locked
for the winter.

Great service, both the lawn mower and snow blower are ready for their next seasons. He showed up on time, was friendly and knowledgeable. I would use
Paramus Lawn Mower Repair Shops Provider Name Locked
- Karin B.

Paramus Lawn Mower Repair Shops Provider Name Locked
and his helpers were very responsive, they came and looked at our lawn equipment, gave us an estimate and took the mowers with them. Repairs were completed promptly and both machines have been running well this summer. We would use him again and recommend him to anyone needing work done on their lawn equipment.
- Sandy D.

Lawn Mower Repair Shops in Paramus, NJ

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Busymen International

1240 Edward Grant Hwy

Castlerock Nursery

141 Castle Rock Rd
Lake Hopatcong

Durie Lawn Mower & Equipment Inc






Elevate Construction Inc

1000 S Fairfield Drive

Elliot's Construction

1555 sterling pl

Exceptional Green Inc

PO Box 4

Gamka Sales Co. Inc.

983 New Durham Road

GLT Contracting Service

100 Elizabeth, Ave.

Home Depot Inc

92 168th St

Middlesex Auto and Brake Shop



1360 Clifton Ave


PO BOX 847



National Lawn Equipment

305 Island Road


S.I.E,Shahab Pura, Sialkot-Pakistan.

Newburgh Power Equipment

988 Little Britian Road

NJ Snow Removal LLC

31 Luisser St.

OT Construction

8520 Elmhurst Avenue

Penny Saving Design LLC

21 myrtle ave
Jersey City

Perfect Property Services Inc

4 Maple Ave

Rahway Electric Motor Co.

1653 Irving St.

RepairClinic.com Inc

48600 Michigan Ave


Hasbrouck Heights

Sharpening Service

22 Ashford St

Sidcom International Inc

4460 Monticello Ave 2

Spectrum Services LLC

684 Ellington Rd.

Vinnie's Small Engine Repair,LLC

302 Schepis Ave
Saddle Brook

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