Lumberton Electricians

in Lumberton, NJ

666
Electricians are
in Lumberton

208
Electricians in Lumberton
are top rated

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Rated by
Michelle B.
"We had several contractors bid our project, and we are very happy that we selected
. They helped us plan our remodel with 3D renderings of our bathrooms. They" had great ideas for updating the look of our bathrooms while keeping true to our personal style and our budget. They assisted with material selections and helped save us $ due to their extensive relationships with retailers for everything from marble tile to faucets and sinks. We are about 50% complete with our master bath project, and it's looking great. We added marble flooring to the bathroom mid-project, and
was able to be flexible and change gears quickly, which made the process stress-free. Our kitchen looks amazing. Edan helped select the pendant lights over our kitchen island and they are perfect. I really like that
communicates well, sending pictures to me of our job site and showing us recommendations before doing the work. It It made for a smooth process with no unpleasant surprises. Customer service is excellent.
is incredibly responsive: they have taken care of things in a timely way. I highly recommend this company.
N
Rated by
Jeff C.
"We just wanted to get a light installed at the bottom stairs of an apartment building. What a hassle. This job wasn't cheap and it wasn't good.. From the tenant: "As" a former home owner of over 10 years, when I would hire someone to do work on my house I expected a certain level of quality, but to be honest whoever did the electrical work, really just did the least amount of work possible. The light in the entry way has one light switch at the bottom of the stairs, which of course is only useful 50% of the time. You will still have to either walk down/up the stairs in the dark to shut it off or turn it on. The GFI outlet in the bathroom was moved to the other side of the mirror, which is fine, but they left the state of the drywall full of holes where they moved the electrical wires and the GFI outlet. I just wanted you to be aware of the quality of work performed and that there is some damage to the wall in the bathroom where they replaced the outlet." Now the kicker: They used metal conduit to run the wiring! Yup, like you'd see in a warehouse! It looked hideous. we've used
on multiple occasions. Never again.
A
Rated by
Richard M.
"Two servicemen from
arrived about 9 AM and completed their work by about 6 PM that evening. They removed the existing furnace which was probably about forty" years old and sealed the old chimney connection for the old vent pipe. They installed the new equipment on the existing concrete pad of the old furnace and made all the connections to the existing duct work. A new vent pipe had to be installed, which they ran under the basement ceiling to an outside wall. I was particularly impressed by the care they took in installing this vent pipe, since they needed to access the outside basement wall directly behind and over our rec-room piano. They were able to install the pipe without the slightest disturbance to the piano, lighting, photographs or other objects in the work area. Overall, the job would probably have been finished sooner; however, there was a glitch in connecting the new thermostat - it did not appear to be communicating correctly with the new furnace. After a process of trial and elimination, they were able to determine that there was a problem with the old thermostat wiring, which they isolated in the basement ceiling and were able to install new wiring to correct the problem. Other than a standard lunch break, the men were dedicated in their work. They also contacted the City Code Enforcement, who came to inspect the installation, which he approved. I had selected
for this job based on other reviews I had found on Angie's List. By coincidence, only a few days after researching the company online, I came across a kiosk of theirs at the local mall, talked with the company representative and made arrangements for someone to contact me, which they did just a few days later. We made arrangements for a representative to come to the house to review the situation and offer solutions and an estimate. The representative arrived on time, was friendly and helpful and walked me through the company's products and services. We agreed upon what system(s) would be included in our contract and within a few days, the service team was on the scene to install the new system. The price for the new system seemed more than fair, based on my own research. The company offers various financing options and we opted for a 15 month, zero percent interest, financing. We provided a partial payment on the day the service was performed. In sum, the company and its representatives were responsive, very professional and technically proficient. My wife and I are very pleased with the new system.

Local Articles in Lumberton

Winter guide

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Ryan Electric owner Pat Ryan says he always makes sure clients inspect his work and are satisfied before he leaves a job. (Photo courtesy of Brody Ryan)

Hiring an Electrician

Since the days of Thomas Edison, the practical applications of electricity have become exponentially more complex. Becoming an electrician requires extensive training and continuing education to keep up with technology that changes constantly. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

One LED can last up to 50,000 hours, the equivalent of 42 60-watt incandescent bulbs. (Photo by Hugh Vandivier)
Lighting, Electrical

LED lights are quickly becoming popular choices for interior home lighting, but can they really compete with incandescent bulbs? Are there any downsides to using light-emitting diodes?

Outdoor holiday lighting, LED holiday lighting
Electrical, Holiday Decorating, Garage Doors

When hanging holiday lights, the safest power source is the nearest outlet. If that’s not possible, look for an appropriate extension cord or a power stake.

Hugh Vandivier
Lighting, Electrical

Those familiar incandescent bulbs are being phased out, replaced by new, more energy-efficient bulbs. But what's behind compact fluorescent lights (CFLs) and light-emitting diodes (LEDs)?

Electrical work is extremely dangerous, so make sure you hire a licensed pro for work around the home.
Electrical

If you discover that you have an old Federal Pacific breaker box, a faulty circuit breaker or an outdated fuse box, how much can you expect to pay to have a qualified electrician replace it?

Angie's Answers

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Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
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This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

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As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

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Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

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An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

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If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrical reviews in Lumberton

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Rating
Our home had outdated and malfunctioning smoke alarms, obviously something one would want fixed quickly.
Lumberton Electricians Provider Name Locked
was able to squeeze us in immediately and arrived in under an hour. He diagnosed the problem, installed new smoke alarms, and brought the house up to current code by replacing the type of detector in one part of the house. Very happy with his service.
- Ann K.
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Rating
As soon as I called, an appointment was set-up the following day to trouble shoot all the electrical problems that we were experiencing in the house.
Lumberton Electricians Provider Name Locked
was very professional, punctual, and knowledgeable about the problems we were having. He showed us that the Gfci outlet inside the garage was tripped and had to be reset which was causing all the outside outlet boxes and two laundry room outlets not to be working. Then he replaced the wall dimmer switch in the house that was broken causing the lanai ceiling lights from not working. After doing so, he checked the fixtures around the pool that were broken and needed to be replaced. We picked-out new
Lumberton Electricians Provider Name Locked
bird cage light fixtures for around the spa steps that had to be replaced which
Lumberton Electricians Provider Name Locked
obtained for us and later installed a few days later. He rewired a good landscape palm tree spot light that was not working. Then he fixed the problem we had with the master-bedroom ceiling fan.
Lumberton Electricians Provider Name Locked
spent four and a half hours fixing our electrical problems and answering all our questions. He immediately got to work, cleaned up any mess, was very respectful of not tracking dirt onto our floors in the house by removing his shoes after working in the yard, and his pricing was very reasonable. I will definitely use him again for any electrical or landscape lighting problems I have in the future.
- Evelyn S.
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The work went very well.
Lumberton Electricians Provider Name Locked
, the technician, was on time and did a very good job. He was ,also, very courteous and knowledgable. This company has won many local awards in the past and has been chosen as
Lumberton Electricians Provider Name Locked
County's best many times by both a "write in" and "computer" vote by past and present customers.
- Howard N.
A

Rating
Lumberton Electricians Provider Name Locked
was very accommodating, thorough and professional. He is very busy so it's hard to schedule next day appointments but that is a sure indication of his quality work and reliability. We would definitely use his services again for future projects.
- Alvin C.
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Called
Lumberton Electricians Provider Name Locked
in the morning, they arrived just after noon same-day, as promised. Work was completed, neatly and quickly. Would definitely use them again for handyman work.
- Rhett C.
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I had three different bids and I chose them as they did the job for us before and the price was reasonable. Everything went very well. The installers were wonderful people to work with. Provided excellent service for us. I highly recommend them. They worked for us before, for a project for recessed lights, they took their time to be sure they do the job right and to our satisfaction. Great Job crew!
- Cheryl B.
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Before renting our condo, we needed to make few changes to meet
Lumberton Electricians Provider Name Locked
's code for rental units. I thought all I needed was 4 smoke/co detectors, but
Lumberton Electricians Provider Name Locked
helped me find other issues that needed to be addressed in order to meet the code. Everything he did made sense to me and we passed the inspection flawlessly.
Lumberton Electricians Provider Name Locked
is a great guy, personable, professional and he always returns calls/texts/emails more timely than necessary.
- Hina R.

All Electricians in Lumberton, NJ

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1 Creation Construction

103 Adams Ave
Mantua

4BestSolar LLC

22 U.S. 130
Trenton

A B Graham Contracting

15047 Liberty Ln

A.W. Martin Construction Inc

614 U.S. 130 S
East Windsor

A1 Electric

224 Marks Ave

A1- Remodeling & Repair

201 E Maiden Lane
Somerdale

AARK ELECTRIC INC.

500 High Ave

Abdo General Contractor

1124 Carpenter St

Able Painting Company, LLC

140 Albemarle Avenue
Trenton

ABRAMS ELECTRIC

6 STREAMLET CT
Lumberton

Absolutely Handi

PO Box 25255

Accelerated Service

PO Box 611
Marlton

Accentric Electric LLC

1820 Autum Leaf Lane

Ace Electric Inc

472 lawrence Cir

Action Security

100 Peoples Drive

Addus,Inc

1673 Dillon Rd

AJP III Construction

644 Tabernacle Rd
Medford

AKRON ELECTRICAL CONTRACTORS

11 CHESTER AVE
Medford

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave SE

ARC Installations LLC

2081A Hartel Ave

Arch~Graphic

202 Harrison Ave
Williamstown

ARTEMUS ELECTRICAL

7230 Marsden St

Arthur R Todd Electrical Contractor

314 Hurffville Crosskeys Rd
Sewell

Artisan Design Build

500 Keystone Rd.

Aston Black

711 Hartman Station Rd

ATCO INC

1121 Tiller Avenue
Beachwood

Attention to All Detail

14 Sunset Blvd
Vincentown

AYARS COMPLETE HOME IMPROVEMNT

409 SOUTHGATE CT
Mickleton

BARRY'S HOME IMPROVEMENTS

615 GARFIELD AVE
Palmyra

Basic Basement Co

122 Park Ave
Manalapan

Bauer Gen Systems,LLC

9 Industry Ct.
Ewing

bbabuilds

2723 E Madison St

Belgrade Builders

3270 Belgrade St

Beltrante Electrical Contractor Inc

3 Rhoades Ave
Moorestown

Benjamin Lake

805 Heather Ln

Bonitz & Bonitz Construction Co

146 Merrick Rd
Trenton

Borkowski Electric Inc.

86 Greensward
Moorestown

BOYER'S FLOOR COVERINGS

3020 KUTZTOWN RD

BRAD BROWN ELECTRIC

2303 Haverford Road

Bradshaw Electrical

816 Cinnaminson Ave
Palmyra

BRENNAN RENOVATIONS INC

31 CLEARFIELD AVE

Bresch Construction

410 Schaeffer Ave
Deptford

Brice & Williams Inc

2046 New York Ave

Brinkers Energy

445 N West St.

Broad Street Contracting

1113 Wharton Street

Brothers H.V.A.C Inc.

1107 Bleigh Ave

Brown Electric

415 Old Orchard Rd
Cherry Hill

C&F Green Construction LLC

1342 Trolley Ln
West Deptford

C&S Contractors

5306 Girard Ave.

Capstone Property Services LLC

1 W Walnut Ave
Merchantville

CAVELLA CONTRACTING

2818 Cedar Street

CB's Electric, LLC

402 State Street
Cherry Hill

CENTRAL ELECTRICAL CO

225 DAHLIA AVE
Williamstown

Chesterfield Electric & HVAC

711 Monmouth Rd
Chesterfield

CHUCK DOUGHERTY

2217 CLIFFORD AVE
Atco

Cintex Enterprises LLC

31 Longbridge Dr
Mount Laurel

City Electric Corp.

16 West Stewart Ave.

Classmate Contractors

525 South Heald Street

Climate Control Inc

64 North Traymore Ave

CMT General Contractors INC

63 Colonial Park Drive

Code Green Solar

100 E. Evergreen Ave.
Somerdale

Cohen Contracting

138 Carmen Dr

Comfort Basement

1250 Bethlehem Pike

Common Structure LLC

4103 Unruh St.

CONCORD ELECTRIC INC

761 RTE 168
Blackwood

Cosello Construction Inc

17 Saint Davids Rd
Cherry Hill

Cousin Vinnies Home Improvement

420 Lincoln Ave
Collingswood

Craig Taylor Construction

22 Indian King Dr
Cherry Hill

Cranmer's Kitchens By Design

Heston Hall Ste 110

Creative Designs, LLC

137 South Grove St.
Sicklerville

Custom Carpenter

201 Bayside Dr

Custom Renovations

1879 Old Cuthbert Road
Cherry Hill

D CCTV Security

Cinnaminson

D'Agostino Carpets

180 S Main St

D'King Construction

3914 N 7th street

Dadem Contracting

922 Pitman Ave

DAN SPAGNOLIA ELECTRIC LLC

27 LANCASTER
Marlton

DAN'LL DO IT

Trenton

Dasan Building Group LLC

10 South River Road
Cranbury

DELANCO RAD AUTO REPAIR

2801 BURLINGTON AVE and PERKINS LN
Riverside

Delaware Valley Plumbing Supply Inc

476 Centennial Blvd
Voorhees

Delnico Total Home

248 Geiger Rd

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

DIXIE Total Home Maintenance

130 Cypress Ave
Somerdale

DK Electrical Solutions ,Inc.

127 Red Lion rd.
Southampton

DMS Electric

1719 S 19th st.

DOUG DURLACHER

224 S Flint Ct

DOVETAIL CONTRACTING

317 Ruscombe Ave

Durante Electric Inc

717 Spring Mill Ave

E-PACS INC

8382 LANGDON ST

E.A.Smith Builders

332 E Roosevelt Blvd

Eastwood Restorations LLC

207 Wood Street
Burlington

Ed Walls General Contracting

59 Folwell Station Rd
Jobstown

Edge Builders Llc

6822 N Broad St

Electrical Hazards

5527 Pulaski Ave # 2

Emerald Tile

201 emerald ave

Emmel Construction, LLC

102 E. Main St.
Marlton

EMS Electric

36 Gooseneck Rd

ENERGY STARSERVICES INC

12301 MCNULTY RD

EP Home Improvement LLC

1602 Brunswick Pike
Lawrenceville

Equity Home Improvements Inc

665 River Road, Suite #13

ERH POWER INC

182 Patton Ave
West Berlin

Evolution Electrical Mechanical Contractor LLC

108 Marshall Corner Woodsville rd
Hopewell

Exact Solar

1655 Fairfield Rd

Excel Home Services

582 N Broadway
Penns Grove

EXCEPTIONAL LIGHTING LLC

3406-B SAXONY DR
Mount Laurel

Experience Electrical

20 East Brown Street

Exquisite Designs

47332 Sterdley Falls

FEH Global Construction

4 Juniper Lane
Sicklerville

FERRARINI KITCHEN & BATH

8015-8017 Old York Rd

Fix It All Today

1358 Hooper Ave
Toms River

flannigan russo contractors

525 NEWTON LAKE DRIVE
Oaklyn

Flash Electric

Swedesboro

Focus Construction

6523 Washington Avenue

Forest Renovation & Restoration

135 Forest Rd
Moorestown

Gabriel Electric, LLC

433 Virginia Avenue
Collingswood

Gallagher Electrical Mechanical LLC.

37 Daretown Alloway Rd
Elmer

Gallagher Electrical Mechanical LLC.

37 Daretown Alloway Rd
Elmer

GAVIN ELECTRIC

101 Rodney Ave
Woodbury

GB Electric

PO Box 93

GEM Home Maintenance

174 Nassau St
Princeton

Gene Olson Electrical Contractors

1 Windsor Rd
Gibbsboro

GeoPeak Energy

285 Davidson Ave
Somerset

GEORGE SPARKS INC

273 Richwood Rd
Monroeville

GMB Construction

490 Avon Street

Godbolt Electric

468 West Country Club Dr
Westampton

Goodwin Electric

303 Chairville Road
Southampton

Halo Energy

64 N. Hanover St.

Handyman Just Ask

1901 Grant Ave

Happy Handyman Service LLC

SUPER SERVICE AWARD
South Plainfield

Hard Hat Electric

135 Walnut Street

HELLER ELECTRIC, INC.

653 CATHERINE ST

HENDRIX ELECTRIC

1468 CHESTNUT RIDGE RD

Herrmann Electric

101 Jefferson avenue

Hide A Wire Inc

6029 Rising Sun Ave

HIS POWER ELECTRIC INC

2259 COLES MILL RD
Franklinville

HK Contractors & Development LLC

PO Box 6263
Lawrenceville

HOLCOMB ELECTRIC INC

298 RT 546
Titusville

Home Depot-Cherry Hill

2200 Rte 70 W
Cherry Hill

Home improvement buddy

713 Swarthmore Dr

Hometown Moving and Storage

719 Main St
Lumberton

Hopkins Electric

807 Heritage Rd
Riverton

House Medics LLC

127 Vassar Ave.
Stratford

House Rx LLC

PO Box 322
Cherry Hill

Howard's Home Repair

13 Kings Bridge Court

Hutchinson Plumbing Heating Cooling LLC

621 Chapel Ave
Cherry Hill

HVAC CORP INC

7707 CASTOR AVE

IMS DISTRIBUTION

2905 Haddonfield Rd
Pennsauken

Instant Air

1423 Jarvis rd suite a

Interior Renovations LLC

306 B Commerce Drive

Interiors By L.C. Tweed

130 Sharrowvale Rd
Cherry Hill

J & B Handyman Services

323 Shaw Rd Apt C

J & J Contracting

1701 Adams St
Riverton

J & M Electric

4356 Pear Drive

J INTERNATIONAL LIGHTING

130 MOUNT HOLLY BY PASS
Lumberton

J R S Carpentry Inc

346 Meeting House Ln

J. E. B. BUILDERS, LLC

24 Periwinkle Dr
Mount Laurel

James Morocco Electrical Contr

37 Iron Bridge Rd
Trenton

JD Electrical

108 Hilltop Ct
Cherry Hill

JDR Construction LLC

2429 Federal St

JEM Electric

700 Irish Hill Rd
Runnemede

Jennings Remodeling

20 Sohn Way
Vincentown

Jerry Naimoli General Services LLC

636 Chatham Rd
Somerdale

JLS Home Repairs

P.O. Box 761

JMS Electrical Contracting LLC

512 Marshall Mill Rd.
Franklinville

JNJ ELECTRIC

939 BORDENTOWN RD
Burlington

John Gitto

1324 Bridgeboro Road
Beverly

John Leo Contracting Inc

1628 Ellis Woods Rd

Jonick LLC

1132 Gilham St

Jorman Construction

31 Gordonville Rd.

JPK ELECTRICAL CONTRACTOR LLC

831 N OAKLAND AVE
Runnemede

JT Electrical LLC

322 Alliston Rd

K&A Construction

239 Prince William Way

K-POL CONSTRUCTION

8 CONSTANCE DR
Trenton

KAESER ELECTRIC INC

99 CLIFTON AVE

KBL Electric

127 E 3rd Ave

Keares Electric

633 Jeffers Cir.

KEARNS ELECTRIC

3130 Levick St

Keen Builders

502 Lestershire
Sewell

Kelly Electrical Contractors, Inc.

122 PRINCETON AVE
West Deptford

KMC Construction

1244 Steel Rd

KMG Electric

307 Richlandtown Pike

Kocher Electric

719 Keystone St

l c b contracting

3509 W Crown Ave

LABOR'S R US

2300 REVERE CT
Atco

LaCarrubba Electric Inc

338 Berkshire Rd

Lamp & Shade Works

160 Delsea Dr
Sewell

LAMP & SHADEWORKS

160 DELSEA DR
Sewell

LANDIS CAMPBELL

2080 DETWILER RD

Leonard Electric

298 Montgomery Dr
Mantua

Light It Up Electric LLC

2102 Elberta Ln
Marlton

LIGHT THEATRICS

2123 ROSELLA AVE
Atco

LITTLE ROCK CONSTRUCTION

123 ROUNDHILL RD
Voorhees

Litz Mechanical

1122 Tennis Avenue

Lou Matarazzo Electrician

836 West Porter Street

MACHUSAK ELECTRIC INC

PO BOX 3405
Mercerville

MACKEY PLUMBING

76 BERKLEY AVE

MacPhee Electric LLC

8 Cherry Street

Maffei Electric

PO Box 2140
Vincentown

Maffei Electric LLC

3 Brotherton Rd
Vincentown

Mark the Handyman

1143 North 63rd St

Mark's Home Solutions

PO Box 102
Marlton

Mars Electric Inc

45 Thornridge Drive

martino roofing contracting llc

16 Arcadian Dr
Sicklerville

matrix electric llc

1065 cedar ave

matteoli contracting, llc

324 West Freedley St

Mattie Enterprise Electrical Contractors LLC

1310 Delsea Drive, Suite #28
Deptford

Mattson Contracting Services

403 Brooks Ave
Bordentown

Maverick Home Improvement

625 N Coles Ave
Maple Shade

Maximum Electrical Services

4142 Ogletown Staton Road

McHales

2450 Trenton Rd

MEMP, LLC

9921 Bustleton Ave.

Mercantini Electric Co.

1108 S Fairview St
Riverside

Mercury Solar Systems

833 W South Boulder Rd Bldg A

Michael J Ross Electric

2050 Klockner Rd
Trenton

Mill Pond Home Improvements

161 Burrs Road
Mount Holly

MJB General Contractors LLC

38 Sofia Dr
Blackwood

Moore Builds LLC

45 Long Bow Drive
Sewell

MORE POWER ELECTRIC INC

205 WHITE HORSE PIKE N
Magnolia

Morris Home Remodeling

2206 S Bucknell

MRC Electric LLC

3138 Sheffield pl

Much Construction

3841 Concord road

MVB Painting Inc

6734 Revere St

My Electrician LLC

617 Stokes Rd
Medford

Nasella Construction

415 Lindsay Street

NASSAU ELECTRIC CO INC

412 10TH AVE
Haddon Heights

Need A Handyman Service, LLC

718 Harrison Ave
Magnolia

Neifert Electric

2231 Decatur Rd

New Jersey Repair

417 Lafayette Ave
Trenton

NISSEL ELECTRIC

3016 S 72ND ST

OhmComm, Inc.

619 Washington Ave

OLIVER CONSTRUCTION

414 DEKALB ST

ONUR MARBLE & GRANITE

225 LINCOLN HWY

Open Sky Energy

6 Park Ave

Osborne Builders Inc.

4640 Curly Hill Rd

Otto Restorations

4900 Rhawn St

OZER SOLUTIONS LTD

4 HARVEST MEWS

P Bertini Jr Electric

78 Lincoln Dr
Clementon

P.C.S. Electric Company

46 W Broad St
Gibbstown

Paramount Estates LLC

13 E Plumstead Ave

PARRA ELECTRIC INC

421 SMITHBRIDGE RD

Patrick OConnor Inc.

1588 Meadow Lane

Paul Redding Contracting

2621eddington ave

PDM Construction

8012 English Creek Ave
Egg Harbor Township

Penn Remodeling

52 Orange Ave

Penstone Building Corporation

1302 North Dover St.

PERSONAL TOUCH

6735 jackson

Peterpaul Electrical and Networking

6 Carlsbad Dr
Toms River

PIONEER BUILDERS

23 SHEFFIELD MANOR DR

Positive Energy

130 West Park Avenue

Power Tek Electrical Contractors LLC

1527 Red Bank Ave
Thorofare
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