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A
"He was responsible, respectful and professional. He was able to almost accomplish everything we had hoped that he would be able to do in the day, and will follow" up generously with us for the final small things.

-Miriam B.

A
"The staff was very prompt in returning the calls and scheduled the service within 24-48 hours. Arrived to perform the inspection in time and also arranged a rapid" repair on the spot. The needed re-wiring of sub-panel was completed the same afternoon once the diagnose was done. It is amazing how fast they could get to the spot and resolve issues. Their response after the service was prompt too. Will recommend to others.

-kelly L.

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Local Articles in Blackwood

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Electricians

Electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person.

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Electrical Troubleshooting

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you're experiencing issues.

Follow the rules or risk paying the price – that’s especially true when planning a home improvement project – big or small. You want to be certain all the work being done on your home is up to code. If you don’t, it could cost you.

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As a home seller, there's nothing more nerve-wracking than waiting for the results of the buyer's home inspection.

Will your existing lamps and dimmer switches work with your new light bulbs? Find out what experts want you to know about CFLs and LEDs.

Angie's Answers

?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?
Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

?

The amperage is the rated power it can handle. Modern houses are generally built with 200 amp panels, and a lot of the newer ones are going 300-350 amps as more and more electronic devices and fancy and high-demand kitchen devices and increased lighting are used in homes.

Both are just as safe - the 200 amp one will just have many more breaker slots, allowing way more circuits, and providing more room for expansion in the future, especially for power-hungry things like shop tools. Each uses only as much electricity as is used in the circuits - the panel itself does not consume any electricity, so no long-term impact there. It is just a circuit connection box where the individual circuits are connected, with circuit protectors (breakers) in line before it connects to the main line to your electric usage meter.

Unless you are real tight on money on this job, I would upgrade to 200 amps capacity - the incremental cost is about $100-200 or so over the 100 amp panel. If your incoming power line cannot handle 200 amps, you could install a 100 amp main breaker to keep the power company happy but put in the 200 amp breaker panel, so in the future a main line upgrade could be done with only a main disconnect breaker upgrade of $100 or so, without having to change anything inside the house.

Having the larger panel, especially if 200 amp capacity all the way from the meter, can be a selling point (or rather, lack of a negative point) to a potential buyer with lots of electronics or who is into shop power tools. It would also facilitate conversion to electric heat / water heating if someone wanted to do that.

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

?

An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

Electrician reviews in Blackwood

A

Rating
The work was excellent. and his assistant were on time and professional. The responsiveness to our request for the work required was fantastic. Appointment options were provided to get the work done. made sure that the original work would be done promptly, the next day, by stopping at our house in ...More the afternoon on his way home from work. Had the job done withing an hour. Fantastic!!!
- Michael M.
A

Rating
The original electrician assigned could not come at scheduled time due to a family emergency, but the company called to let us know the situation and offered to send another electrician working in our area at a later time in the same day. We were agreeable.
Electrician arrived at scheduled time, but didn't have a dimmer switch, because he ...More wasn't the original assigned electrician and didn't know what parts were needed. He offered to go their electrical supplier (if they were open, which they were - barely) and obtain the necessary dimmer switch.
Switch was replaced without any issues. He also looked at the bathroom exhaust fan, and said that the heater was actually not working, and there wasn't anything more he could do unless / until I purchased a new fan.
My "price" concern is with the charge for troubleshooting, which is in the neighborhood of $300, even though it seemed to require only about 15 minutes! They seem to have set amounts they charge for certain services, which can be a value, or not, to the homeowner. I ended up paying for the $88 value package (which presumably gave me $200+ value in work) plus another $21 for the service. Considering this included the switch, and he was maybe at my house for a total of an hour, that is probably typical...not any great value.
He also spent a fair amount of time describing other services I could purchase, but there was no high pressure or anything.
All in all, they were reliable, trustworthy and they stand behind their work, just need to get a good understanding of the charges to expect for the work you are having them perform.
- VICTORIA V.
A

Rating
Work was of high quality and was completed promptly without any surprises. Crew worked very closely with the cabinet installer planning ahead each day. They were very attentive and cleaned up the work place each day, no mess was left behind. Everything was explained in detail and our questions/concerns were answered patiently as the project progressed. ...More Price seemed fair and very competitive with other estimates I got for this job. Overall, we were very pleased with the final product and would love to use them again for future projects.
- Nicolae B.
A

Rating
sent out 2 workers to check out why we were experiencing an electrical when in our shower. It was diagnosed that we needed a grounding wire attached to our water line.
- Bob B.
A

Rating
was able to track down the root cause of 4 light switches that were
not working. It was an unusual cause linked to a switch that was
working. It took a lot of checking the electrical system. House wired in
a strange way when built. But, he solved the problem! was quick
to respond ...More and fit us in his schedule. This is the second time we have retained for our needs. Will use him again.
- Barbara F.
A

Rating
Great work - clean, professional, and prompt. They gave an estimate on the phone and it was less expensive than anticipated.
- Dan P.
A

Rating
Upon requesting service, Nick was very quick to respond to my questions and walked me through the pricing for the service. His technicians arrived on time, were willing to explain their work, etc. I did have a wall switch that went to an unknown location, and after some investigating the technician admitted that re-wiring the switch to the light would ...More require a smaller/more nimble technician to navigate the very tight attic space. Overall, however, the rest of the work was completed in a timely manner and to the quality promised. I would call them again for sure.

- Tim S.
A

Rating
was extremely professional and did a great job. It wasn't going to be easy but he worked quickly and efficiently to get it done. We would definitely use him again!
- Kelly D.

Electricians in Blackwood, NJ

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1 LLC

146 Fairfield Rd
Wayne

4BestSolar LLC

22 U.S. 130
Trenton

_United Home Services

4200 Bethlehem Pike

ABPH Co.

#5 Devon Ln.

Absolute Electric

9 Kensington Dr
Mount Holly

Absolutely Handi

PO Box 25255

Accelerated Service

PO Box 611
Marlton

Accentric Electric LLC

1820 Autum Leaf Lane

Action Security

100 Peoples Dr

ADAMS ELECTRICAL CONTRACTORS LLC

139 PINE ST
Mount Holly

Adelphia Electric, LLC

3528 Nottingham Lane

Advanced Power Solutions

466 Church Street
Hamilton

AES electrical services

20 providence rd

Agron Construction

10154 Bustleton Avenue

AJP III Construction

644 Tabernacle Rd
Medford

Ameriseal Contractors Inc.

2727 Philmont Avenue

Amped Electric Inc

310 S CHESTER PIKE

AMR Electric

125 Clement Dr
Somerdale

AMR Renovations

6 Sherman Terrace
Browns Mills

Angela B. Vasquez

1720 Pennsylvania Ave Unit B

apb electric

4466 almond street

Appliance Authority

4213 greeby st

ARC Installations LLC

2081A Hartel Ave

Arch~Graphic

202 Harrison Ave
Williamstown

Area-Pro Contractors LLC

305 Fairville Rd

ARTEMUS ELECTRICAL

711 Wilderness Trail Dr

ATG Construction LLC

2137 Darby Creek Rd

BABA ELECTRIC

320 Conrow St Apt 200
Burlington

BANKERT ELECTRICAL

2512 S HICKS ST

Banta Electric LLC

PO Box 72039

BARNES INC

1402 E MT PLEASANT AVE

bbabuilds

2723 E Madison St

Bbuilders Services

79 Kanabe dr

Beakley H C

2514 Lori Ln N

Belgrade Builders

3270 Belgrade St

Bob's McHandyman Services, LLC

47 Christopher Road
Voorhees

Borkowski Electric Inc.

86 Greensward
Moorestown

Bradshaw Electrical

816 Cinnaminson Ave
Palmyra

Bresch Construction

410 Schaeffer Ave
Deptford

Brown Electric

415 Old Orchard Rd
Cherry Hill

C&F Green Construction LLC

1342 Trolley Ln
West Deptford

C&S Contractors

5306 Girard Ave.

Call4Electric.com

28 Cherry Ln
Clementon

CARSWELL ELECTRIC

2905 HUNTERDON DR
Riverton

CAVELLA CONTRACTING

2818 Cedar Street

CB's Electric LLC

402 State St
Cherry Hill

CDM ELECTRONICS INC

130 AMERICAN BLVD
Blackwood

CGW Electric, Inc.

2213 W Tioga St

Chestnut Ridge Electric

1362 Chestnut Ridge electric

CHUCK DOUGHERTY

2217 CLIFFORD AVE
Atco

Cintex Enterprises LLC

31 Longbridge Dr
Mount Laurel

City Electric Corp.

16 West Stewart Ave.

City Wide Contracting

696 Second Street Pike Suite 201A

cj electrical services

2295 finley ave

CK Auto Image

718 Washington Ave.

Classmate Contractors

525 South Heald Street

Climate Control Inc

64 North Traymore Ave

Code Green Solar

100 E Evergreen Ave
Somerdale

Cohen Contracting

138 Carmen Dr

COLONIAL ELECTRIC

709 DETTMAR TER
Runnemede

Comfort Basement

1250 Bethlehem Pike

Complete Property Restoration

3C Marlen Drive
Robbinsville

CONCORD ELECTRIC INC

761 RTE 168
Blackwood

CONECTSYS

272 Dunns Mill Road
Bordentown

Creative Designs, LLC

137 South Grove St.
Sicklerville

Custom Renovations

230 Kings Hwy East
Haddonfield

D CCTV Security

Cinnaminson

D ROBINSON ELECTRIC INC

12 CONARD AVE
Collingswood

D'Agostino Carpets

180 S Main St

D'King Construction

3914 N 7th street

Dadem Contracting

922 Pitman Ave

Dan's Handy Man services

215 West Plover Dr

DEC ELECTRICAL CONTRACTORS INC

200 COLLEGE DR
Blackwood

Decision Distribution America, LLC

4548 Market Street, Suite 215

Delaware Valley Plumbing Supply Inc

476 Centennial Blvd
Voorhees

DELTA STAR ELECTRIC

110 HARMON DR
Blackwood

DeMeo Construction Corp

13 Chelsea Ct
Marlton

DES Home Renovations

1 North Johnston Ave
Hamilton

Devanney Electric

933 Nathaniel Trail

Dixie Total Home Maintenance

130 Cypress Ave
Somerdale

Dj's contracting.CO

1009 Winton St.

DMS Electric

1719 S 19th st.

DOLINGER ELECTRIC INC

224 OLD BALTIMORE PIKE

DON HAHN ELECTRIC

72 SPRING HILL DR
Clementon

DON WASHINGTON ELECTRIC

101 BROADWAY
Runnemede

Donnon Contracting LLC

706 Lincoln Dr W

DOUG DURLACHER

224 S Flint Ct

DOVETAIL CONTRACTING

317 Ruscombe Ave

DS Gulite Electric

506 thorny lane
Glendora

DTRenaud

525 Route 73 North
Marlton

DY Electric Inc

1074 Edge Hill Rd

E R HUMPHRIES ELECTRICAL CONTR

1013 ELMWOOD AVE
Blackwood

E-PACS INC

8382 LANGDON ST

E.A.Smith Builders

332 E Roosevelt Blvd

East Coast Electrical Services, Inc.

4400 Old Lincoln Highway Unit B

Eastwood Restorations LLC

207 Wood Street
Burlington

ED'S AUTO SERVICE

759 FOSTER AVE
Vineland

Edge Builders Llc

6822 N Broad St

Electrical Hazards

5527 Pulaski Ave # 2

ELITE CONSTRUCTION

49 LINDEN AVE
Mantua

Elite Electric Services

2332 Borbeck Ave

Emerald Tile

201 emerald ave

EMJ Electric

Trenton

Emmel Construction, LLC

102 E. Main St.
Marlton

EMS Electric

36 Gooseneck Rd

ENERGY STARSERVICES INC

12301 MCNULTY RD

Eric M Krise Electrical Contractor LLC

254 Glassboro Rd
Monroeville

Eric's American Electric

343 Anthony Dr
Bellmawr

Evin-Electric LLC

7514 palmetto st

Evolution Electrical Mechanical Contractor LLC

108 Marshall Corner Woodsville rd
Hopewell

Excel Home Services

582 N Broadway
Penns Grove

EXCEPTIONAL LIGHTING LLC

3406-B SAXONY DR
Mount Laurel

Experience Electrical

20 East Brown Street

Expert Handyman & General Contractor

800 Johns Rd.
Cherry Hill

Exterior Kings

13 summit square center

Family & Friends Builders

2544 E. Cambria Street

Family Construction Inc.

2650 E Juniata Street

FEH Global Construction

4 Juniper Lane
Sicklerville

Fix It All Today

1358 Hooper Ave
Toms River

flannigan russo contractors

525 NEWTON LAKE DRIVE
Oaklyn

Flash Electric

Swedesboro

Flynn's Electric inc.

63 hinkle dr
Bordentown

Focus Construction

6523 Washington Avenue

Forest Renovation & Restoration

135 Forest Rd
Moorestown

Gabriel Electric, LLC

433 Virginia Avenue
Collingswood

Gallagher Electrical Mechanical LLC.

37 Daretown Alloway Rd
Elmer

Garnet Homes

2002 Renaissance Blvd, Suite 270

GB Electric

PO Box 93

genconUSA

8023 Mars PL

GeoPeak Energy

285 Davidson Ave
Somerset

GEORGE SPARKS INC

273 Richwood Rd
Monroeville

Get "it" Done Home Repair

606 Pine Ridge Road

GJP&SON LLC

101 S. Brownleaf Rd

Global Building Group

626 N. Front Street, 3rd Floor

Go Modern

9222 Wesleyan Rd

Goodwin Electric

303 Chairville Road
Southampton

Greenable

2037 Washington Ave.

H & S ELECTRIC & LIGHTING INC

1330 N BLACK HORSE PIKE
Blackwood

HACE CONSTRUCTION SERVICES INC.

167 W. Allegheny Ave.

Halo Energy

64 N. Hanover St.

Handy Harveys Residential Services

2302 Tall Pines
Clementon

Handyman Just Ask

1901 Grant Ave

Hard Hat Electric

135 Walnut Street

Hardy Environmental Services

425 Old Airport Rd.

HELLER ELECTRIC, INC.

653 CATHERINE ST

HENDRIX ELECTRIC

1468 CHESTNUT RIDGE RD

Herrmann Electric

101 Jefferson avenue

House Medics LLC

127 Vassar Ave
Stratford

Hummel Construction Services LLC

108 Sweet Bay ave
Sicklerville

HVAC CORP INC

7707 CASTOR AVE.

IMS DISTRIBUTION

2905 Haddonfield Rd
Pennsauken

Instant Air

1423 Jarvis rd suite a

Interior Renovations LLC

306 B Commerce Drive

Interiors By L.C. Tweed

130 Sharrowvale Rd
Cherry Hill

J & B Handyman Services

323 Shaw Rd Apt C

J & M Electric

4356 Pear Drive

J&J Technologies LLC

2503 Yarmouth Ln
Mt Laurel

J&L Enterprises

2465 Richards Ave
Atco

J. E. B. BUILDERS, LLC

24 Periwinkle Dr
Mount Laurel

J.A. Home Repairs

1308 chalet dr

J.B. ELECTRICAL SERVICES , L.L.C.

2604 stokes road
Mount Laurel

JDR Construction LLC

2429 Federal St

JDS Contractors

632 Pierre Ave
Mantua

JEM Electric

700 Irish Hill Rd
Runnemede

Jennings Remodeling

20 Sohn Way
Vincentown

JMR & Sons Electrical Contractors

1588 Autumn Drive
Franklinville

JMU General Contracting

139 W Madison Ave

JNJ ELECTRIC

939 BORDENTOWN RD
Burlington

JOHN HAHN JR PLUMBING, LLC

PO Box 640
Williamstown

John Leo Contracting Inc

1628 Ellis Woods Rd

Johnsons Kitchens & Baths LLC

217 Rice Ave
Wenonah

Jonick LLC

1132 Gilham St

Junior Electric

415 Park Drive

JUST RIGHT INSTALLATION LLC

178 GARFIELD AVE
Blackwood

Justin Price & Associates

7969 Algon Ave Floor 1

JYJR Contracting LLC

732 Melon Terrace

K & L Construction

3445 Thompson st

K C ELECTRIC

38 S PENNSYLVANIA AVE
Blackwood

K&A Construction

239 Prince William Way

K&N Home Remodeling

2214 Penn St
Pennsauken

K&R electrical services

440a white horse pike

K-POL CONSTRUCTION

8 CONSTANCE DR
Trenton

KBL Electric

127 E 3rd Ave

KEARNS ELECTRIC

3130 Levick St

Keen Builders

502 Lestershire
Sewell

KELCO ELECTRICAL CONTRACTORS

110 HARMON DR
Blackwood

KEN GITHENS

200 LAKE AVE
Glendora

Keys Electric, LLC

5934 Frontenac St.

keystone security

217 bustleton pike

Kitchens By Ken

PO Box 1180

KJ Electric

1019 Oakmont st.

Kocher Electric

719 Keystone St

Kolbi & Company LLC

1382 Piedmont Dr

L.T.'s Custom Concepts

310 Warren St
Beverly

LABOR'S R US

2300 REVERE CT
Atco

Lamp & Shade Works

160 Delsea Dr
Sewell

LAMP & SHADEWORKS

160 DELSEA DR
Sewell

LANDIS CAMPBELL

2080 DETWILER RD

Langenet Integration LLC

5000 SE Federal HWY #25

Leonard Electric

298 Montgomery Dr
Mantua

Liberatore construction llc

644 Williams Ave
Runnemede

Liberty Electric Contractors LLC

2653 Liberty Street
Hamitlon

LIGHT THEATRICS

2123 ROSELLA AVE
Atco

Litz Mechanical

1122 Tennis Avenue

LMRM Construction

1032 Radcliffe

LONG ELECTRIC

5 FRASER RD
Blackwood

LSN 1 Construction Inc

1200 Marlton Pike E
Cherry Hill

M&M Contracting

3248 St Vincent St

M.C.electric

611 scott ave
Lindenwold

MACHUSAK ELECTRIC INC

PO BOX 3405
Mercerville

MAD Electric LLC

121 GREENWICH DR
Westampton

Malco Electric LLC

602 Ryan Ave
Westville

martino roofing contracting llc

16 Arcadian Dr
Sicklerville

matrix electric llc

1065 cedar ave

matteoli contracting, llc

324 West Freedley St

Mattie Enterprise Electrical Contractors LLC

1310 Delsea Drive, Suite #28
Deptford

Maverick Home Improvement

625 N Coles Ave
Maple Shade

Maximum Electrical Services

4142 Ogletown Staton Road

McGillen Electric, Inc.

130 Rutledge Ave

Mercury Solar Systems

833 W South Boulder Rd Bldg A

MJB General Contractors LLC

38 Sofia Dr
Blackwood

Mobile Device Solutions, Ltd

17911 Sky Park Circle, Suite C

MONARCH BOILER CONST CO INC

850 W BLENHEIM AVE
Blackwood

MONARCH ELECTRIC CO

901 ROUTE 168
Blackwood

Moore Builds LLC

45 Long Bow Drive
Sewell

Morris Home Remodeling

2206 S Bucknell

Mr. Electric of Southern NJ

1040 Industrial Drive
West Berlin

Mr. T's Home Maintenance

384 Westmont Drive

MRC Electric LLC

3138 Sheffield pl

Much Construction

3841 Concord road

My Electrician LLC

617 Stokes Rd
Medford

My Pa Electrician

926 Manor ave

MyHandyman2Go

230 Kings Highwas East Suite 195
Haddonfield

Nasella Construction

415 Lindsay Street

NAUGHTON ELECTRIC

24 WURST ALLEY
Mount Holly

Need A Handyman Service, LLC

718 Harrison Ave
Magnolia

Nemal Electronics

12240 NE 14th Ave

Nesspor's Auto Repair

387 Whartnaby St.

New Jersey Electric

994 Bear Tavern Road
Ewing

New Jersey Repair

417 Lafayette Ave
Trenton

NISSEL ELECTRIC

3016 S 72ND ST

NuStar Enterprises LLC

29 Groff Rd.
Monroeville

O'Boyle Contractors

6326 Lexington Ave
Pennsauken

O'KEEFE ELECTRIC

313 SUMMIT AVE

OC Electric Inc

7945 Heather Rd

OhmComm, Inc.

619 Washington Ave

OLIVER CONSTRUCTION

414 DEKALB ST

ONUR MARBLE & GRANITE

225 LINCOLN HWY

Open Sky Energy

6 Park Ave.

OZER SOLUTIONS LTD

4 HARVEST MEWS

P Bertini Jr Electric

78 Lincoln Dr
Clementon

P.C.S. Electric Company

46 W Broad St
Gibbstown

PDM Construction

8012 English Creek Ave
Egg Harbor Township

PDQ Electric Corp

7 CONESTOGA RD
Laurel Springs

Penstone Building Corporation

1302 North Dover St.
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