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A
"Went really well. We have worked with them before and was happy to try them again after a less then wonderful experience with a different plumbing company. We" had a short list of things to be worked on with two toilets. The tech arrived and got to work. We didn't use the entire time purchased but the tech was very happy to help with anything else we might need. All of the items are working well several weeks later and we are super satisfied. I hope we don't need them again but will use them if we do.

-Jeffrey B.

A
"Sewer backed up in the morning. D&I was the only plumber available for same-day service. Was concerned about some of the reviews on the web, but they mostly" dealt with Heating/A/C. Plumber cleared the clog, replaced malfunctioning toilet shutoff, cleaned up, was very profressional and courteous.

-Arden H.

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Local Articles in Manchester

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Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

Plumber reviews in Manchester

D

Rating
The communicaton is excellent. I scheduled an appointment online and received a phone call a day later. They followed up the day of the service with a phone call and even a texted the name of person who was coming outwith an approximate time of arival. The gentleman who came to the door was very friendly and he even put bootie covers on his shoes everytime he entered my home. The problem I have with this company is their costs...and I feel totally taken advantage of after I did some research later that night. I was charged a grand total of $597 for a repair to a leaking bathroom faucet. He quoted me this before so I'm not saying I was totally surprised at the final bill but I was really shocked when he finished in 10 minutes after he explained how difficult and complex the issue he was going to fix was. Later that night I looked up the part he replaced on the
Manchester Plumbers Provider Name Locked
website and from what I can tell it only costs $40. The final straw that
Manchester Plumbers Provider Name Locked
me to write this review and to explain the type of company they are and why I'm now so upset was because he quoted me an extra $300 to fix a leaking hand held shower head which I declined because i
Manchester Plumbers Provider Name Locked
't ready to pay $1000 for plumbing repairs. He explained it was really difficult job to fix the hand held shower head because he would need to specially order a part or replace the whole shower head system. Gods honest truth, I went on Youtube later that night and figured out how to fix the issue myself because there was a ton of videos on the subject.
I really wanted to have these guys work out but the games they play to exhaggerate the difficulty of service to justify their ridiculous prices is criminal.
- Joseph L.
F

Rating
I had an appointment for Friday afternoon and took a half day at work to accommodate the appointment. The tech came out and took one look and said I wasn't told I was replacing a sink and I can't lift your sink by myself. He called his supervisor outside and came back in and said he would return and 12:00 pm the next day. at 3:45 pm I called the after hours line and they paged him. at 4:30 I did the same. at 5:05 pm I got a voicemail from the tech that he fell asleep from doing an overnight job and he would try to get out to me. He sounded very tired and I honestly did not want someone doing shabby work if they were sleep deprived and had a bad taste in my mouth as I had re arranged my schedule for this for two days now. I am so disappointed because the reviews looked good on Angies list and I thought I would have a good experience.
- Anne S.
A

Rating
Manchester Plumbers Provider Name Locked
was terrific! He was punctual and professional from the beginning of the job until its completion. He explained everything that he was doing, gave us a few tips on how a hot water heater functions and cleaned everything up after he was finished. He even helped move our washer and dryer back into position.
Because of
Manchester Plumbers Provider Name Locked
, we we not only pleased with
Manchester Plumbers Provider Name Locked
's work, we will not hesitate to call if we ever need any plumbing help in the future.
- Elizabeth N.
A

Rating
We did not have time to take competitive bids, so cannot say whether the price was lowest. However, we feel that the price was very fair considering the number of hours of work and the high quality of materials supplied.
The work was performed exactly as promised, work crew was punctual and courteous and responsive to every request. We would be happy to use this plumbing service in the future.
- Michael K.
D

Rating
At the end of the "inspection"
Manchester Plumbers Provider Name Locked
provided my husband with suggestions and an estimate. He told my husband that the water pressure was way over 100 and should be at 70 and that the pressure reducing valve needed to be replaced ($711), the anode rod in the water heater needed to be replaced ($507), the hose
Manchester Plumbers Provider Name Locked
needed to be replaced ($89) and to replace the kitchen faucet (faucet to be purchased by me) and both bathroom pop up assembles ($360). Total, and I am guessing this is all before tax and any extras would be $1,667. Of course I did some research when I got home from work. Now mind you, it took
Manchester Plumbers Provider Name Locked
20 minutes to empty a
Manchester Plumbers Provider Name Locked
of water out of the water heater, pull out the anode rod and show it to my husband, and then replace the existing anode rod, 20 minutes. An anode rod cost anywhere between $15 and $85. Mine cost me $85 because of the water heater brand I have. The replacement pop up assemblies for my bathroom cost $40 (I chose to go with metal chrome finish, my guess is that
Manchester Plumbers Provider Name Locked
would have used the cheap plastic $8 ones) and I had to purchase one small $2 extension part for one of the bathroom pop up assemblies. THE TOTAL COST FOR THE SUPPLIES WAS LESS THAN $130. I hired a neighborhood plumber who replaced the anode rod, check the pressure valve which (using a fairly new one) read at 70 NOT 100+ and said there was nothing wrong with my water pressure or the valve, he replaced both bathroom pop up assemblies, replaced a WASHER in the kitchen faucet, replaced a WASHER in my hose
Manchester Plumbers Provider Name Locked
and as an extra bonus fixed my front door :) He was at my house two and a half hours and charged me $55 an hour. His labor was $137.50. TOTAL COST TO REPLACE AND/OR REPAIR EVERYTHING $267.50. We saved ourselves $1,400. I will say that
Manchester Plumbers Provider Name Locked
was really nice, a pleasure to deal with. However, I use providers based on trust. I understand that there needs to be a bit of a
Manchester Plumbers Provider Name Locked
up, but HONESTLY three times the amount???? If MyPlumber.com would have been more HONEST about the pricing to replace and/or repair everything, we would have used them. Sorry, but you just lost yourself a customer now and in the future, as well as, getting any referrals. It's a shame you feel you need to rip people off.
- Michelle A.
A

Rating
The experience was excellent. The plumber showed up right on time, used shoe covers while he was in the house (had to change them several times as he was in and out checking on the outside faucet). He was very professional and fast and the work seemed to be excellent. I was glad that he 'finished' the job by sealing the hole well - and he cleaned up after himself. And I appreciated his advice. While I appreciate the 'straight-forward' pricing (he had a chart and left it with me) that the company uses to give me a quote on the other job I have, I would have used him on the spot but his quote was nearly $100 higher than our 'usual' plumber. He also said that they charge a $100 service fee if they would have to come out again (which our usual plumber does not - but they did send a coupon in the mail to reduce that by 50%). So overall their work was excellent and I would probably use them again if their prices were competitive. They will certainly be in my consideration set when we need to replace our water heater.
- Kelly B.
A

Rating
As they stated when I called they called me about 30 minutes before the plumber arrived. He arrived well within the two hour window, went right to work and within 50 minutes had the problem resolved. He was very careful and neat which I really appreciated and he had me check to be sure the problem was all resolved before he left. I gave him a check on completion and got a call from the company a few hours later, apologizing since he inadvertently overcharged me. They asked and I agreed to them sending me a check for the overcharge. Needless to say I was quite impressed and really appreciated their honesty! Next plumbing issue I will definitely call them again!
- Diane N.
A

Rating
Extremely happy with
Manchester Plumbers Provider Name Locked
and his team. I have marked them under the favorites. It was a great experience right from setting up the appointment to the actual work getting done and the follow-up. Their customer service manager Rolly handled all the appointments. He was super-responsive and very prompt in arranging a timely appointment.
Manchester Plumbers Provider Name Locked
was friendly and did an outstanding job with everything and cleaned up afterwards. The price was also very reasonable. All in all, A+ on all aspects.
- Sridhar R.

Plumbers in Manchester, NH

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Able Restoration Inc

170 Oak Hill Way

ABS DRAIN

9 ESSEX ST

Absco Heating

74 Massabesic St
Manchester

Absolute Home Comfort

151 Veterans Rd.

Absolute Water System LLC

127 N Lowell Rd
Wildham

After Hours P&H LLC

P O Box 485
Brookline

AGS Services Inc

78 Depot Hill Rd
Henniker

Al Terry Plumbing And Heating Inc

1776 Hooksett Rd
Hooksett

Alan Williams Mechanical

25 Dunham St
Manchester

Allson Sewer Cleaners

281 Western Ave

Allston Plumbing

30 Penniman Rd.

Allston Plumbing

201 Cambridge St

Aviksis Plumbing

254 California St

Avon Emergency Plumbing

110 Memorial Dr.

Avon Expert Plumbers

340 E Spring St.

Avon Plumbing

100 Wales Ave.

Boylston Plumbing Company

1345 Boylston St.

BP Plumbing and Heating

209 Boston Post Rd

BRAGDON PLUMBING & HEATING

109 INTERVALE RD
Wilton

Daniel Baldwin Builders

25 Blossom Street
Nashua

Danusis Construction

27 Mockingbird Lane
Newmarket

DMI LLC

5 Northern Blvd Ste 5
Amherst

DO IT NOW

159 Maple St

Dracut Kitchen & Bath

18 Chuck Drive

Dracut Plumbing & Heating

505 Merrimack Ave.

Drain King

95 1/2 High St

Drain Medic911

6 Hamilton St
Nashua
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