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D
"$1,200 for a sump pump? Charged $350 to pump out under the house - twice. Second time was after the switch they installed failed. Never missed an opportunity to" charge as much as they could. Refused to respond to my calls; said they would only talk with the property manager. Finally, the property manager negotiated a small ($100) decrease in the last bill after I refused to pay it.

-Leslie S.

A
"I had a plumber out before
came out who tried to sell me a bunch of stuff I didn't need and told me my problem was outside the house" instead of inside. My sister asked her friend she worked with if they knew any plumbers in Tucson that were good and they gave her their name. I also found them on Angie's list and decided to call them.
came out and snaked my line and found my problem was inside my home's foundation. They were straight forward and honest. They didn't try to sell me a bunch of stuff I didn't need from the beginning. They are very hard working and I would definitely recommend them to people. When I had a family member who was ill and in the hospital they also were understanding and let me reschedule when I could. I appreciate all their hard work.

-Naia T.

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Local Articles in Hooksett

4 common plumbing scams and how to avoid them

Some plumbers are in the business just to make a quick buck. Here are four of the most common plumbing scams to watch out for and how to avoid them.

Hiring a Plumber

When you need a plumber, especially for an expensive project for which you have time to plan, make sure you hire one who is fully qualified and licensed in your state. A plumber may be an apprentice, a journeyman or a highly qualified master plumber, depending on the level of training and experience.

Know what not to send down the disposal in order to keep it running smoothly. (Photo by Katie Jacewicz)
Plumbing

Clogged garbage disposals can jam up hours of your day. To avoid dealing with this situation, don’t flush the following items down the drain.

garbage disposal
Plumbing

If you’re not using your disposal properly and giving it a little preventative maintenance, you could shorten its useful life or experience secondary damage from a disposal leak.

drain line heat exchanger
Plumbing

As more homeowners desire to make their homes greener, some manufacturers of plumbing products are trying to meet the demand.

snowy house
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It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Inspiration & Ideas

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Macauba Quartzite countertops
new kitchen tile backsplash
shower with ceramic tile
double-bowl stainless steel sink
copper apron-front sink

Angie's Answers

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It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
www.thomeservices.com

Plumbing reviews in Hooksett

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Rating
Outstanding communication and installation. They had the unit I needed in stock and were able to install it the following day. I compared prices with 3 different (highly-rated) plumbers in my area, and
Hooksett Plumbers Provider Name Locked
offered the lowest price. They were intelligent and professional. They were in and out in little over an hour. I would definitely hire them again.
- Mike N.
A

Rating
Hooksett Plumbers Provider Name Locked
was the plumber that was sent out. He assessed the situation and replaced all the pipes that were not working properly and completed the installation. I asked for an additional service because one of the handles of the water connection was broken and he had the part in the truck. He was at my location 2 hours. It was really nice to have hot water after being a week without it because we thought we could do the job ourselves. Next time I think I will call the professional from the beginning. I was very pleased with the work
Hooksett Plumbers Provider Name Locked
did, the customer service at the initial call, and I had to call again because the courtesy discount for being an Angie's list member was not given by error. It was no problem it was taken care of by phone. I would certainly recommend them. They bill by the hour, not the job and the clock starts running half an hour before they get to your location, and you do get a call that the plumber is on the way.
- Teresa D.
A

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It went great! They priced the job competitively and finished the job quickly. When I needed a emergency service they were out immediately. I used them at two of my homes. I will use them again too.
- Brett T.
A

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I called
Hooksett Plumbers Provider Name Locked
& Beyond on Sunday to replace a cartridge in our spare bathroom and they called me first thing on Monday morning and had someone to my house the same day. They were prompt, charged a fair price, and did a great job.
- Bryan D.
A

Rating
Pilot light in my mother's water heater had gone out. I tried relighting it multiple times Tuesday night but it would not stay lit. I assumed it needed a thermocoupler but did not have the time or inclination to do it myself and called
Hooksett Plumbers Provider Name Locked
as they've done work for me before. I explained the problem and
Hooksett Plumbers Provider Name Locked
offered to come over the next day.He showed up at my mother's at around 1pm. He lit the pilot and it actually stayed lit for him. To my surprise he did not ask for anything despite making the trip. I really appreciate the quick response and am greatful that he did not charge for the visit. Will definitely continue to use
Hooksett Plumbers Provider Name Locked
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Hooksett Plumbers Provider Name Locked
works fast, is affordable and easy to work with.....this was just icing on the cake.
- Mark A.
A

Rating
Hooksett Plumbers Provider Name Locked
was incrdible. He was right on time and went right to work. He was professional, polite,and took great care to ensure everything was cleaned up after completion of the projects. We could not have been happier with the service we recieved from this incredible plumbing company. This is the second time we have used their services and they deserve AAA+++ ratings.
- Henry C.
A

Rating
Hooksett Plumbers Provider Name Locked
arrived as scheduled, assessed the situation and provided a written estimate. This was an extremely difficult repair and despite several challenges
Hooksett Plumbers Provider Name Locked
stuck with it, found an excellent solution, and we now have a working shower again, at a very fair price.
Throughout the process he was extremely professional, knowledgable, and courteous. Based on this experience we would definitely use and recommend
Hooksett Plumbers Provider Name Locked
.
- Helen L.
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Rating
Hooksett Plumbers Provider Name Locked
came back as agreed and performed the test on the pipes. He shut off the gas and did an air test. All in all he found 2 teaks not 10 fixed them within the two hour time line and there was no charge for any supplies because he didn't need any to fix the problem.
Hooksett Plumbers Provider Name Locked
assured me the house leaks are taken care of and he attests to 2 leaks which will help to validate the repair of the gas leaks which I will need for the closing.
Hooksett Plumbers Provider Name Locked
was prompt professional and knowledgable. The cost was reasonable and the service was excellent.
- Debbie M.

All Plumbers in Hooksett, NH

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Abington Sewer Service

1420 Bedford St.

Able Restoration Inc

170 Oak Hill Way

ABS DRAIN

9 ESSEX ST

Absco Heating

74 Massabesic St
Manchester

Absolute Home Comfort

151 Veterans Rd.

Absolute Water System LLC

127 N Lowell Rd
Wildham

Academy Hill Plumbing

19 Academy Hill Rd

Acton Plumbing

336 Great Rd.

Adaptations Unlimited

25 Fox Run Rd
Portsmouth

Advanced Energy Concepts

151 - 2 SOUTHBRIDGE ST

Aviksis Plumbing

254 California St

Avon Emergency Plumbing

110 Memorial Dr.

Avon Expert Plumbers

340 E Spring St.

Avon Plumbing

100 Wales Ave.

B.C. Building Company

98 North Street

Back Bay Plumbing & Heating

31 Massachusetts Ave.

Baker Elman Plumbing

671 Saw Mill Brook Pkwy

Bay State Re-Bath

55 B Corporate Park Dr

BB Homes

69 Sharon St

Custom Climates HVAC LLC

PO Box 1245
Merrimack

Custom Contracting

1267A Massachusetts Ave

D A Baker Construction Co.

65 Neponset Ave. Ste. 1

D E Roy Plumbing and Mechanical LLC

836 Candia Rd
Manchester

DMI LLC

5 Northern Blvd Ste 5
Amherst

Dr. Home Service LLC.

955 Goffs Fall Road
Manchester

Dracut Kitchen & Bath

18 Chuck Drive

Dracut Plumbing & Heating

505 Merrimack Ave.
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Hooksett Zip Codes

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