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Bids are NOT done based on a multiplier on top of materials cost to get labor cost. Think of the consequences in the example you gave - by that method using say plain home depot tile made in Honduras might cost $5/SF materials, so by your method $10 labor. Now, same floor, with Carerra marble or Barre Granite at $75-100/SF - so do you want him charging you $150-200/SF labor when it takes almost exactly the same time regardless of material ?
To put it in simple terms, contractors:
1) figure the amount and cost of materials and consumables needed from the plans and specifications, applying a markup (from 15-50%, depending on contractor and how fancy or specialized a job it is).
2) Then they figure the equipment needed and the operating time to be used or elapsed time to be rented or leased - either opperating hour or elapsed time, or combination of both, especially if it consumes fuel
3) They then figure the labor time for the various trades required to do the job, maybe add an efficiency or ease of work multiplier to those hours to fit the job conditions, multiply those hours by the hourly pay rates, then multiply that times the "load" or "Labor Overhead" to account for employment taxes, workman's compensation costs, health plan, etc, etc.
4) Then they add in the cost of any architect or engineer plans or certifications that are needed, government permits and inspections, etc.
5) Then they add in any subcontractor bids, with appropriate contingency amount for each.
6) All those above totals are added up, an appropriate overall contingency added if needed (typically 5-10%, but on remote site jobs I have seen as high as 200%), and (depending on how contractor figures his costs) at least all the "in-house" costs like his equipment, consumables, and labor costs have a percentage overhead and profit added to them - typically about 100-150%. Some contractors use a lower overhead percentage but apply it to the total estimated job cost, not just in-house costs.
This "company overhead" or "general overhead" or "G&A - General and Administrative Overhead" covers the costs of financing and running the company, management and secretarial and general supply and maintenance costs, buildings and equipment yards lease or mortgage cost, working capital cost, insurance, loan interest, general shop equipment payments, profit, etc. Some contractors use a lower overhead and apply it to every cost in the job, some (especially those doing government work so havingto adhere to government accounting rules) apply a "markup percentage" to materials and rental costs and outside subcontract services, and apply G&A overhead only to in-house costs.
That being said, for a general class of work it does generally (on normal jobs) work out that there is a general multiple of labor to materials cost. For instance, yard work and residential tree work is heavy on labor, so it might have a labor to materials ratio of 3:1 or even 5:1. Detail foundation hand excavation and underpinning can run to 5:1 or more. Many types of building construction like plumbing, tile, carpentry, etc. do end up with a very roughly 2:1 or 3:1 ratio of labor to materials cost. At the other extreme, high energy efficiency or hurricane rated glass installation or a fancy full-building computer and communications system or high-end entertainment center might have a labor to materials ratio of 0.25-0.5 because it is designed to go in pretty fast, but the materials cost a lot.
For your case, a hardscaping ratio could run from 0.5:1 or less to as much as 3:1 or more, for installations with very expensive imported stone and fancy woods and a lot of bought decorative items such as statuary, to the opposite labor-intensive landscaping with lots of sidehill terracing and hand-planted flower beds, hand-dug irrigation system trenches, and manual-placed concrete block or railroad tie walls. Each job should be figured on its own merits - using a "rule-of-thumb" is where people commonly get unpleasantly surprised. That is why you typically get 3 bids unless you have a contractor you trust from prior experience and are confident will give you a fair shake regardless of being sole-sourced. Personally, both for my own purposes and professionally in the design and construction business, I have found sole-source to trusted contractors you have experience with is, in the long run, a BIG money and time saver, as well as making it far more likely to finish on schedule and let you sleep at night.
You need a general contractor - prefereably one who specializes in additions, because you have excavation, waterproofing, concrete, concrete cutting, carpentry, door and window, etc trades to coordinate.
The cost will depend a great deal on your topography around the house - if the base of the window will be above ground level at least 6 inches, then could run about $500 for a legal egress window purchase and about $1000-2000 for installation, depending on how deep into the concrete you have to cut.
If the bottom of the window will be below ground level, then to call it a bedroom (which mandates legal sized second egress and usauully at least one window) then you will have two choices - bring it out into a solid watertight concrete storm cellar with collar to keep water out, stairs, and and weather and bug-tight cellar door that is inward-opening, which means a lot of space for stairs and landings top and bottom, or bring it out into an oversized window well at least 36 inches in diameter, and with steps to ground level, with adequate drainage and waterproofing to keep it dry. Either way, sometimes about as easy to put in an outside door as a window, and might raise property value more. Cost from $2-5,000 depending on how deep into concrete wall you have to dig, whether concrete wsall needs reinforcing with steel frame because of the depth of cut, how easy the digging is, and what your water conditions are near the foundation. The last thing you want to do is create an easy water or vermin ingress with your egress.
The cost to install the veneer stone has a wide range do to many factors. It can range from around $9 to $17 per square foot. It depends on the location, the stone being used, job access, skaffolding needs, wall prep and such. I would think you would be on the lower end of the scale. Your job is on a concrete surface so it eliminates one of the biggest problems they are having with this product, wall preperation. This one of the things that separates the high bidders from the low ones. There are million dollars homes being torn down because of improper wall prep. One a wood frame house a backing system that allows drainage is a must or the moisture absorbed by the veneer can rot the walls behind with alarming speed. Some have had makor damage within the first four years. On a concrete wall the veneer needs no such prep at most wire mesh applied if it is an older concrete wall.
Is the wall that the garage is sloped toward and adjacent wall of the home?
If not, it should not be of real concern.
Try to keep the water out of the garage with a gasket on the door.
Concrete Repair reviews in Dunbarton
F&L Construction, on Aug. 10, 2014 to build an addition to my home which
was to be completed within 40-60 days. On the contract he provided, his PA Attorney General’s Office Home Improvement
Contract registration number was 000952.
subsequently through legal litigation it was discovered
his HIC number had expired one year prior to the contract on
In total, $30,900 was paid before
for payment draws prior to work completion.
Professional estimate from another contractor on the
actual work done by
working and why this was no longer a 40-60 day project: initially the rain and
lack of concrete availability slowed the project. As time progressed, the cold,
the snow and then the death of a friend slowed the project.
to receive another payment. The Coding Inspector came onsite and provided a
the additional money, lying to me stating this was the final inspection and it
was called “partial” because he only had to add a beam. In calling the Coding
Inspector, he stated nothing but a bare frame was in place and he could not
approve the inspection without hard wiring, plumbing, windows, doors and
insulation – all of which had not even been started.
garage. Water damage caused the ceiling in my garage to collapse, resulting in
a 5x5 foot hole.
needed to contact my homeowner’s insurance and I am attempting to get this
I have been forced to hire an attorney in an attempt to rectify this situation. The job was abandoned, I am
out $20,000+ with little recourse but to hire another contractor to complete
the project and repair damages done and ti complete unfinished work by
District Attorney’s Office, even local news agencies.
Additionally, there is yard damage. My fence was cut at the
base in two areas for equipment. This was not listed as something needed in the
contract and will cost thousands to replace. There is dirt fill covering a
large portion of my back and side yard, and he also abandoned a large bin of
construction waste which is still sitting in my front lawn.
The statements above are factual with copies of cashed checks, pictures, witnesses and bank statements for
verification. I would never recommend F&L Construction or
Fictions Name License:
Additionally: a residence
I located an ad in MONEY MAGAZINE to have my driveway replaced,
I expected the curbing be completed with a curbing machine in order to have a smooth, symmetrical, professional appearance as shown in
I had a “nonstructural” column that was leaning and needed to be pushed back into place and the footing needed to be supported with more concrete. The workers dug a hole without supporting the column and it tilted further away from the house. They pushed it back to the original leaning position (not the upright needed position), put a supporting
The edges of the expansion was, for the most part, pretty good, the issues I had were holes the size of silver dollars in some places and there were very strange colors in the concrete. When I asked
I had a shed built in the back yard and wanted to set it on a concrete pad. I had the shed moved so the pad could be poured. The shed pad looked fairly good on initial inspection except for on the back side there was the sharp end of a very large nail hanging out of the concrete. My concerns were someone being cut from it. It was never addressed by the company. Since having the shed moved into place (10 days after initial pouring) the edges are breaking off and it is continuously putting off concrete dust. I have gutters on the shed in hopes to decrease any erosion. Regardless, a bad job is a bad job.
At the end of the evening, they were trying to finish in the darkness without proper lighting, they demanded full payment. I felt bullied by several men expecting payment in cash, I told them that I could only get 500.00 dollars in cash and the rest would have to be a check. Against my "gut instinct" the cash was gotten from the ATM and I wrote a check for the remaining balance of 4500.00 dollars.
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