Concord Insulation Contractors

in Concord, NH

383
Insulation Contractors are
in Concord

106
Insulation Contractors in Concord
are top rated

A
Rated by
William A.
"
inspected our attic. Said we have plenty of insulation, and potential heat losses through fixtures. Ventilation a potential issue. He said this could be fixed" at the cost of thousands of dollars, but would also require attic to be reinulated. Suggested waiting to test for any ice dam issues this winter, and then reassess. Appreciated the honesty about costs and payback.
A
Rated by
Clayton S.
"
(old
Natural Gas company) gave a bid. When I questioned how the bid was constructed, the representative said they had had problems" with a spread sheet and re-submitted their bid - which reduced their estimate from ±$800 to less than $500.00. They actually apologized for the mistake. They were on time, efficient, careful, cleaned up after their work was completed. We had our general contractor inspect the basement area after they were done with their work. He too had glowing reports about how professional their work was. One of those rare home improvement projects that works exactly as it was designed to do, by professionals who were excellent
B
Rated by
mary M.
"The sales person was very professional and spent a good amount of time with us. Our bedroom has been very cold and we suspected there was no insulation above the floor in garage ceiling." Plus we are getting ready to retire so want the most energy efficient house. Both owners were extremely responsive to phone calls and concerns before and at the beginning of the job. After that all bets were off. They seemed to be in a hurry all the time. Winter and cold weather is coming soon, so we can not report on effectiveness of insulation. Unfortunately there was some lack of communication of the differing folks in the company so our description of jobs was all over the place. For the $$$$cost of project and the fact that we did not get any competitive quotes, feel very disappointed! HATS OFF to actual installers.
was in the crawl space which is really low and our house is very long! 2 BIG problems 1. In the garage the drywall replacement is horrible. It can not be painted without redoing it. They had to rip it out twice. The first time they did not finish drywall above cabinets on back wall of garage. We had to take cabinets down and put up ourselves twice. It still is a mess. An electrical box still hangs down and not secure to the ceiling. We have not tackled that as we are most likely doing some garage work. When we voiced our concerns it seemed to go on deaf ears. There were no surprises. It is stated very clearly in the contract to remove and replace drywall in garage etc. When we asked about this messy job they said it was unusual to have to pull down drywall as they usually go in through outside siding. 2. The cellulose insulation is still falling all over the place several months later in garage and utility room. Not sure if this is normal or not. It is like tiny bits of curled up newspaper all over the place. When the job was done it was the end of a cold snap in the beginning of the Spring. We said a few times it was OK with us if they wanted to wait for weather to clear, but I guess once a job starts it has to end. This caused. I think, for them to rush through job. It was so cold and icy that they could not park truck in sloped driveway because it was so slippery. Wish we had more clarity up front. Maybe confusion between sales person and owners. They were very pleasant but seem to
interest in our concerns once the job was completed (well sort of). For a job this expensive we expected more. This is all a big bummer as we were so excited but everything just kind of went downhill. Update After a call to Liam with concerns about the shoddy drywall he agreed to pay to have drywall redone. We received a check for new drywall installation in a few days! Thanks Liam

Local Articles in Concord

Winter guide

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Without proper insulation and venting in your attic, icicles can form on your eaves, leading to a damaging ice dam on your roof, says Neubecker. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Donna B. of Mendota Heights, Minn.)

Avoid ice dams with proper attic insulation

Do you have icicles forming on your eaves and gutters and ice collecting on your roof? An ice dam can cause serious problems without proper insulation.

Angie's List
Appraisals - Real Estate, Architects & Building Design, Basement Waterproofing, Bathtub Refinishing & Liners, Biohazard Remediation, Builders - Garages/Barns/Sheds, Builders - Homes, Cabinet Making, Cabinet Refacing/Restoration, Carpentry - Unfinished, Carpentry - Woodworking, Carpet Sales/Installation/Repair, Chimney Caps, Chimney Repair, Chimney Sweep, Closets, Concrete - Leveling/Mudjacking, Concrete - Pouring & Repair, Concrete - Stamped & Decorative, Countertops, Deck Maintenance, Decks & Porches, Delivery Service, Dock Building & Repair, Doors, Drywall, Dumpster Service, Electrical, Epoxy Flooring, Excavating, Fireplaces, Floor Cleaning/Polishing/Waxing, Flooring Sales/Installation/Repair, Foundation Repair, Fountains, Garage Doors, Glass & Mirrors, Glass Block, Gutter Cleaning, Gutter Repair & Replacement, Handymen, Hardwood Flooring Sales/Installation/Refinishing, Hauling, Heating & A/C, Home Automation, Hurricane Shutters, Insulation, Land Surveying, Landscaping, Landscaping - Hardscaping & Pavers, Landscaping - Lakefront, Landscaping & Lighting, Lawn & Yard Work, Lawn Fertilization & Treatment, Lawn Irrigation, Lead Testing & Removal, Marble & Granite, Masonry, Mold Testing & Remediation, Moving, Painting - Exterior, Painting - Interior, Pest Control/Exterminating, Plumbing, Plumbing - Drain Cleaning, Pressure Washing, Radon Detection & Reduction, Remodeling - Basements, Remodeling - General, Remodeling - Kitchen & Bathroom, Remodeling - Modular & Mobile Home, Remodeling - Sunrooms & Patio Enclosures, Roof Cleaning, Roof Ice/Snow Removal, Roofing, Screen Repair, Septic Tank, Sewer Cleaning, Siding, Skylights, Stone & Gravel, Structural Engineering, Stucco, Tree Service, TV Service - Cable, TV Service - Satellite, Wallpaper Removal, Wallpapering, Window Cleaning, Window Tinting, Window Treatments, Windows, Windows - Egress, Windows - Safety & Security Film, Wrought Iron

Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

With insulation technology always advancing, you’ve got choices to make when it comes to the material you pick, says Lindus. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Lynn M. of Columbus, Georgia)
Insulation

Thinking of installing your own insulation? One highly rated provider shares six things that every homeowner should be aware of before attempting to DIY.

Before winter arrives, ensure your attic is sealed properly and has both adequate insulation and ventilation. (Photo courtesy of member Kitty Jones of Columbus, Ohio)
Insulation, Heating & A/C, Roofing

A comfortable, energy efficient home starts at the top. Those hot spots and cold rooms may relate to problems in your attic. Beyond adding insulation, what's a homeowner to do?

Download the Angie's List Fall Maintenance Guide to get started on protecting your home from potentially damaging winter weather. (Graphic design by Matt Mukerjee)
Heating & A/C, Deck Maintenance, Lawn Fertilization & Treatment, Water Heaters, Plumbing, Roofing, Gutter Cleaning, Garage Doors, Fireplaces, Chimney Sweep, Insulation, Auto Service, Foundation Repair, Lawn Irrigation, Tree Service, Windows

When tree leaves and temperatures begin falling, it's a sign winter is on its way. Use this fall maintenance checklist to protect your home from winter damage.

Angie's Answers

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Google and read about it. Some people swear by it, though their comments sound suspiciously like they were all written by the same person. Some call it a rip off - expecially people paying $6000-8000 for what would normally be a $1,000 range job.

I would not call it an outright fraud as they are providing a product that has some potential merit in the right application, but from a technical standpoint it sounds suspicious. They claim a 1/4 mat with doiuble sided foil facing is R-16 insulation. This at least is deceptive - they appear to be saying its radiant heat reflective properties give the equivalent of R-16 insulation, because there is NO WAY 1/4" foam is going to yield R-16 in an ASTM test for insulation, which is a thermal conductivity test. Would be lucky to get R-2 or so as an insulator, so this is basically a radiant barrier. Competing products from national brandname manufacturers list R value of 3.8-4.2 for one inch mats, so the equivalent for this 1/4" mat would be expected to be in the R1 range.

Properly installed, with ventilation on BOTH sides, it can be slightly effective in reducing radiant heat loss from the house, and more effective in reflecting heat in the attic from coming down into the house. However, from a thermodynamic and vapor control standpoint, they are trouble unless their integration into the house envelope is designed VERY carefully. Short explanation:

1) for keeping heat in the house, if they are installed above the attic floor insulation they can slightly limit air loss through the ceiling, and reflect radiant heat back down, resulting in warmer insulation, hence a warmer ceiling - but not as marked an improvement as added insulation would give.

2) for keeping attic heat from getting into the ceiling, they do reflect back a good portion of the radiant heat coming from the roof sheathing. This reduces the attic floor insulation surface temperature, so can reduce air conditioning cost. it does increase teh temperature in the attic, which can be very bad for support timbers and the roof sheathing.

3) the worst thing about how this type of foil radiant barrier is used is that, unless it has free air space on both sides, it acts as a vapor barrier. In the typicall application as a blanket over attic floor insulation, it traps any moisture coming up from the house, and can cause mildew and rot, especially in climates where the outdoor temperature gets quite cold.

4) the attic fans are generally a last resort measure - the normal house does much better, at no energy cost, using ridge vents with adequate eave openings to provide ventilation and cooling in the attic.

5) their effectiveness in winter heat diminshes rapidly with time - tests of attic radiant barriers show they lose about half their effectvieness within 5 years, because even a light dust coating greatly reduces their ability to reflect radiant heat, and greatly increases the absorption of heat from the hot air above them.

6) pay attention to cost - from what I see, their installed cost is many times the cost of normal insualtion or radiant barrier placement.

I would say, in summary, buyer beware, and I would be inherently leery of a product being sold the same way timeshares and "secret" moneymaking schemes are.

?

Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

?

A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.

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Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
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Insulation reviews in Concord

A

Rating
An incident happened during one day of the previous job where something was damaged and we were notified. When they came back out, they more than apologized and compensated for it. They did the hallway painting for free.
- Sunny R.
A

Rating
Punchout Plus showed up on time and set to work each day for about a week. The workers were considerate and kept us informed of their comings and goings. The dry
Concord Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
,
Concord Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
, did a great job, working very deliberately. The clean-up was excellent and the charges were as agreed to, even though an additional coat of paint was required because the undercoat was showing through.
- Patricia G.
A

Rating
Concord Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
did an excellent job! They arrived promptly, kept me informed during the job, cleaned up before they left and completed the work effectively and efficiently. They were not bothered by the fact that my dog kept following them around and getting in their way. I am very satisfied with their efforts, courteous nature, and overall service.
- Traci L.
A

Rating
Concord Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and his team at
Concord Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
have done jobs at two homes of mine. One home needed a complete attic cleanout and new insulation added. The other home needed additional insulation and radiant
Concord Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
. The jobs were excellent. I actually can say that the attics look beautiful! Who can really say that about such a space? They were efficient, professional, and courteous. Not much more I could ask for. I would recommend them to anyone for their jobs well done.
- Marcey W.
A

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Concord Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
& Son is an appliance store. I did not use a private contractor. The quality of work was good. They came as promised on time and were very efficient.
- Stephen R.
A

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I will definitely have
Concord Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and his team back in the future due to his honesty, integrity, knowledge, and perhaps most of all his work ethic and the great work he does!
The contractor (
Concord Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
/ Granite & Tile Concepts) was on time for the estimate appointment and was very thorough going over what work I was looking to have done. This was a multi-project home renovation with work to be performed in various parts of the house. When looking at each area for work,
Concord Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
checked for substrate issues (for bathroom tile and laminate flooring installation) as well as explaining in full detail the steps, materials and costs for each project I was looking to have performed. I was very pleased with his knowledge, and he did not try to add on any extra "you should do this..." items to either inflate the cost or get me to have additional renovations to other areas I had not specified. I've been a homeowner many times over and have had contractors in the past try such tactics. I signed with
Concord Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
to perform the work. Again,
Concord Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was on time for each day of work. He and his team are highly energized (for lack of a better word), and all business. I would say they were quick and efficient, as well as excellent at what they do. They kept all areas they were working in safe, and the mess down to a minimum - cleaning up the area(s) at the end of each day.
Concord Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
did a walk through with me during and at the end of each project, allowing me to examine the work for anything I may not have been pleased with. Aside from one cut on a corner piece of laminate, I found nothing.
Concord Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
immediately removed the piece and put in a new one with a tighter cut.
For the master Bath tile project,
Concord Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
checked the floor for bounce to ensure the installed tile would not crack at some point in the future. He added 3/4" plywood and a Durock sub-floor, and insured the floor was level before tiling. He allowed the tile to set over night and grouted the next day. Beautiful job.
For the master Bedroom, Living room and Hall flooring he again checked for any substrate issues. All baseboard trim was removed, as well as existing thresh-holds. He measured to insure the floors would level up to all other existing floors. The floors were previously carpeted, so no old flooring needed removing and the carpeting had already been removed.
Concord Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
laid in flooring paper and then installed the new wood flooring. When meeting up with any door trims, he under-cut the trim and then cornered with the laminate. He then added in new thresh-holds. Again - beautiful job.
For the living room hearth there was a raised brick 2' x 5' already in place. I had a choice for him to remove the existing hearth, or use it in a new design. I chose the latter.
Concord Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
base coated over the brick with cement, and over-layed with 8" x 8" black marble. He then two-stepped the hearth tiling the front and sides and then extended the hearth out in front by 3'. This was for two reasons - I was installing a wood
Concord Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and code compliance based on the size and dimension of the wood
Concord Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
. He allowed the tile to set over night and grouted the next day with a black/onyx grout to create a seamless effect. Beautiful job.
For the exterior door removal - I had a door going to nowhere (a deck previously abutted on the outside but had been removed by the previous homeowner). For home insurance purposes I had two choices - build a deck or get rid of the door. I chose the latter.
Concord Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
removed the door, built in a 2"x4" frame, added 1/2" or 3/4" plywood (sorry, can't remember which) to the exterior and then insulated with the proper r-value insulation. He then dry-walled and finished the interior with 2 coats of primer as prep for finish painting. On the exterior, he removed the old vinyl trim insuring not to damage the existing siding. He then put on Tyvek insulation wrap and laid in the new vinyl siding. Excellent job both inside and out.
I have several other areas both inside and out that I will be addressing in the future, such as walls, patio and walkways outside, and other to-be-determined projects inside. I will definitely hire
Concord Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
(Granite & Tile Concepts) again.
- steve S.
A

Rating
It worked out fine. I was given a descent price and there was an improvement on the heat loss around the house. They did a good job on clean up and quite a nice job.
- Eric M.

All Insulation Contractors in Concord, NH

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Aureli Construction

707 Winthrop St.

B&A Construction LLC

341 SIlver Lake Rd
Hollis

B&B Unique Remodeling

45 Fairlane Road

Buildtech,Inc.

5 Granite ST

Byron Drywall Company

429 Andover Street

C Gosselin Siding LLC

44 Cricket Ln
Manchester

C M FORTIER DESIGN-BUILD

757 LANCASTER AVE

CJ Renovations

38 Blue Hill Ave

Classic Metal Roofs LLC

264 Gleasondale Rd

Clean Planet

1069 Main St. Suite 321

Custom Climates HVAC LLC

PO Box 1245
Merrimack

Custom Contracting

1267A Massachusetts Ave

D & R Construction

52 Berkshire St

Danusis Construction

27 Mockingbird Lane
Newmarket

EMESETS CONSTRUCTION CO

219 WOODLAND STREET

ENERGY EGGHEAD

39 CEDAR ST

Energy Improvements, Inc.

PO Box 4085
Concord

Enviro Staffing Solutions

530 Broadway # 12

Environmental Spray Foam

644 Washington Ave.

Express Roofing

16 Jonas Rd

Exterior Touch Inc.

12610 Waverly RD.

F&W Pest Control

357 Worcester Rd.

G&G Home Improvement

168 Turnpike St

Gardner Automotive Llc

1068 W Boylston St

GF Construction

46 Kenmere Road

GM Property Services Corp

346 Medford Street

Gpconstruction

Tallant Rd
Merrimack

GRANITE & TILE CONCEPTS

54 Knox tr Bld 2b

Granite Roots Construction

132 New Hampshire Drive
Concord

HANDY PROS

PO Box 290057

HandyMan Sean Home Services

41 Mount Vernan St

Handyman911

9 Gabrielle Drive
Hudson

Hanover Hill Insulation and Siding

724 E Industrial Park Drive
Manchester

J C Overhead Door Co

100 Bouve Avenue

Jackson Insulators, Inc.

100 Page Road
Litchfield

Jason Hutchinson

71 Mozart St.

MASS Home Services

44 Fox run rd

Mattos Co

15 Waite Ct

MCDONALD INSULATION

1194 MASSACHUSETTS AVE

MJG Construction

PO BOX 1154

Modern Pest Services - Newton, MA

1203 Washington Street

Mold Doctors

572 Rte 28

Moonworks Home Improvement

1137 Park East Dr.

Mullen Construction

231 Elmwood St

MyCraftsmen

PO BOX 22

National Energy Audits

169 R Merrimac St

National Lumber

112 HIGH ST
Concord

PLG Contracting

12 Morris St

Prado Painting

37 Audubon Rd

Pro Insulators

71 Maple St

PRO-CARE INC

3 N MAPLE ST

Professional Building Services

9 Olde Woode Road
Salem

Property Pro Restoration

1000 Mt Laurel Cir

Pros Home Services inc

449 Boston Post Rd. East

Prudential Remodeling

1 Westview Terr
Pelham

Quality Insulation

110 Perimeter Rd
Nashua

R.M.C. SERVICES

31 POPE ST

REMODCO, INC.

Heights Rd.
Concord

Remodel Boston

516 East Second Street

RemodelWerks

621 Main Street

RENAISSANCE CARPENTRY

44 WILLIAMS ST

Rescon Basement Solutions

3 Commercial Ln
Londonderry

Rickman Maintenance

1078 W Boylston Street

SALEM VINYL SIDING LLC

46 Herrick Cir
Pelham

SAM ROSARIO CONSTRUCTION

141 SOUTH FLAGG STREET

Sanford Temperature Control Inc

96 Old Wilton Rd
Milford

Saoirse Design Build

68 Main Street

SCFay Construction Corp

88 Marked Tree Rd

Single Source NH

22 Millennium Way
Concord

Socelvic Co

425 Washington St

Speers Custom Builders

28 Oliver Neck Rd

Spray Foam By Mavros

7b Webster Street

SPRAY INC

55 TEELE RD

Stanley Woodworks

11 Marion Rd

TETREAULT CONSTRUCTION

22 BROOKS POND ROAD

The Acton Handyman

376 Old Beaverbrook

THE BULKHEAD MAN & SONS LLC

12 GAVIN RD
Mont Vernon

Troymade

1 summerhill ave

Turn Cycle Solutions

174 Main St. Suite 13
Nashua

TWO STOREY BUILDING

89 SPECTACLE HILL RD

Ultra Safe Pest Management Inc

1291 Commonwealth Avenue

United Remodeling

PO Box 35466

US Home Improvement

27 Hamilton Rd

V. Robert Gagosian

115 Washington St

Vallerand Builders, Inc.

309 Concord Road

Vent Master

35 Henderson St

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