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C
"They got here on time. Took out the old garbage disposal and successfully installed the new one. No problem there. :In the process, however, they broke a pipe." Nothing wrong there, I understand that mistakes happen. The problem is that they charged me for it. I didn't think I should have been billed for it for 2 reasons: 1. They broke it. 2. I paid for 2 hours of work. They were done in one. I thought it was greedy to charge me for the pipe.

-Omar P.

A
"The technician was punctual and very professional. He diagnosed all of the problems and determined his course of action. He called and checked with me to make sure" I was ok with the price of the replacement parts before he bought them. Although the whole visit was a little pricey, I am not sure if any other plumbing company would have been any less. All in all, I was very pleased.

-Shonna T.

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Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

Plumber reviews in Roca

A

Rating
We decided to get our leaking water heater replaced and thought the price was right with
Roca Plumbers Provider Name Locked
. My wife called in the middle of the week and they said they would be out Friday Morning at 8 am. The person who delivered the water heater was very nice, and was there 30 minutes before the plumber.
Roca Plumbers Provider Name Locked
showed up 5 minutes before the scheduled time and went right to work. He was very nice and was good to our yappy dogs. The install was fast and clean. Price included the water heater, install and disposal of the old water heater. I will definitely be using them in any future plumbing needs.
- David N.
A

Rating
Meticulous is absolutely top-notch.
Roca Plumbers Provider Name Locked
the owner visited to discuss replacement of the heater sacrificial anode and installation of an automatic shut off valve in case there was a water leak on my 10-year old maytag electric heater. He explained the pros and cons clearly, then I scheduled the work.
He and and assistant came on time, performed the work, did a few extra things to improve the installation, then showed how the shut off valve worked and we tested it. The parts he replaced were clearly better than the stock water drain and relief valve, showed me the decomposed anode. The work was done in 4 hours, with no mess left at all.
I would heartily recommend meticulous for any plumbing work or even for consultation.
- john T.
A

Rating
The plumber inspected the pump, back-up pump and the back-up battery. He reviewed the functions of these items for my husband and gave him pointers on how to keep all these things in good working order. He was very thorough and his suggestions were very helpful.
- Rosemary M.
A

Rating
Was fast and efficient replacing the natural gas connection.
Then addressed our concerns about our gas water heater and a faucet.
- Elizabeth L.
F

Rating
Very poor service, I would expect to see this provider on Dateline for ripping people off. Said I needed a whole new
Roca Plumbers Provider Name Locked
unit for $900 because filters were not available for mine, I looked on line and got some that day. Had another plumber come in for a second opinion and I was about to be drastically taken advantage of. Kept trying to sell me on the monthly service package. Paid $800+ for 3 small repairs.
- Kellie M.
C

Rating
The plumber came on 8/12 and when I showed him what needed to be done he checked under the kitchen sink and told me what needed to be done and informed me I needed to purchase the parts myself since there are so many to choose from. That was perfectly understandable. He left and several hours later I discovered I did not have hot water. I called and was told he would come by and turn on the valve. I kept waiting for him to come back. Two days later I called and had to leave a message on there answering machine since no one answered the phone. About 7:00 p.m. they retrieved my call message, apologized profusely, and came over about 20 minues later and turned on the valve. The plumber came on 8/17 and did the installation but didn't seem as tho he knew much about it. He was very, very nice and the job was done but I felt like he was not a professional plumber.
- Barbara W.
D

Rating
The plumber had come out to repair/replace some old fixtures on our bathtub. We had already replaced the drain and overflow valve ourselves but had a problem with the overflow valve. He took the valve off and realized he did not have the tools to repair the problem we had run into and did not have the correct fixtures and so returned the original valve. He let us know if we wanted him to get the correct fixtures we could schedule another appointment and he'd bring the necessary parts. He was very pleasant, but we chose not to call him back. He was here for about 30 minutes total. We received a charge for $125 today. $250 an hour!
- Kelly E.
A

Rating
Our old galvanized steel bathroom sink drainpipe sprung a leak in the wall between the bathroom and our guest-room. The drain water was dripping all over our storage in the basement. I knew we needed a plumber and that s/he would have to punch a hole in the wall of our 1929 bungalow (sigh).
Treven arrived right on schedule and listened patiently to my very long-winded explanation of our issue. He identified the problem right away and let us know before getting started what he planned to do - including cutting a hole in the wall - allowing us to abort the process if we wanted, which I really appreciated. He also gave us a quote up front, which is exactly what we ended up paying.
He did a quick and beautiful job, and even though it wasn't part of my original request, he took a little extra time to replace the washers (which I supplied) for our dripping tub faucet with no additional charge.
I wish I had taken a "before" picture of the mess of a drain line going into our main waste stack - it must have been patched about 4 times. I don't usually get excited about drainpipes but the nice, solid replacement in contrast to what used to be there was literally a thing of beauty.
Treven was a delight to work with - he was very patient, answered all our questions in a polite and professional manner and overall had a very pleasant vibe. This was important to us since we had had a very unpleasant experience with a grumpy and condescending furnace repairman last winter.
We will definitely use
Roca Plumbers Provider Name Locked
again!
- LORA H.

Plumbers in Roca, NE

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A+ Plumbing Inc

3840 Pace Blvd
Lincoln

Barrett Remodeling Inc

4140 Clifford Dr
Lincoln

BC Remodeling

2514 nw 9th st
Lincoln

Bob & Don's Plumbing

4810 Adams St
Lincoln

Bob Nohavec Plumbing

3400 S 6th St
Lincoln

BOUWENS PLUMBING

5901 FLETCHER AVE
Lincoln

Bryant Air Conditioning And Heating Co

5401 Cornhusker Hwy
Lincoln

Cahaba Scapes

2130 11th avenue north

Crawford Plumbing

PO Box 227
Hickman

Dave's Plumbing Inc

1635 Waverly Rd
Garland

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

GREEN FURNACE & PLUMBING CO INC

4200 N 48TH ST
Lincoln

Handyman Remodeling

22615 Fairview Rd
Gretna

JC Plus Plumbing

531 W Keating Cir
Lincoln

JMC Plumbing Products Inc.

6235 Judson Street
Lincoln

JT&K Services Inc.

PO Box 4322
Lincoln

Lee's Home Improvement

2832 southwest 6th street
Lincoln

Level Headed Guy

Lincoln
Lincoln

Lincoln Plumbing LLC

2501 Surrey Ct
Lincoln

Mark's Plumbing Inc

6101 Rebel Dr
Lincoln

Mike Standley's Plumbing

8144 Mathew Pl
Lincoln

Nebraska ReBath

5221 S 48th St
Lincoln

Nebraska's Plumbing Network

6301 N.W. 105th
Malcolm

NuFlush

5195 Marshall St

Patriot Plumbing Heating & A/C

3310 Manassas Pl
Lincoln

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

6440 Havelock Ave
Lincoln

Rutt's Service & Repair

441 Redwood Dr
Lincoln

Scotts LawnService

8550 S 137th Cir
Omaha

Service Call

17880 Knotting Hill Dr
Lincoln

SHURWAY RESIDENTIAL REPAIRS

5560 Colby Street
Lincoln

Spring Plumbing

3607 Holmes Park Rd
Lincoln

STAMLER CUSTOM CONSTRUCTION

2804 S 11TH ST
Lincoln

Swanson's water services

858 s32nd st
Lincoln

Takoda Green Roofing Inc

2905 N. Street
Omaha

Terry's Handyman Services

206 Nemaha st
Humboldt

Thrasher Inc

12330 Cary Cir
Omaha

Traditions Plumbing LLC

PO Box 6791
Lincoln

Young's Plumbing Company

P.O. Box 256
Bennet

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