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"initially, we were worried because first crew that came out didn't seem confident that the job could be done. We spoke with manager / owner? and he sent another" crew out as soon as possible and they explained that the first crew was concerned about the high pitch of our attic. They brought the right equipment and did a great job. I had our energy company come out for an audit and he said our attic was one of the best he'd seen as far as energy conservation! So, overall, job well-done.

-heidi K.

D
"This review is for the Houston office, but they are not listed as a separate company on Angie's List it seems. I scheduled an appointment with
" for 2/5 @ 9am to cover my options and to get a quote. Called her cell 15 min after the appointment time and she said she didn't have it on her calendar and was driving to the other side of the city. She said she was very sorry and would call me when she was finished with the other customer to try and meet up that day. I guess she forgot about me again, as I never got a call back. Those I spoke with seemed knowledgeable but maybe not interested in smaller jobs.

-Peter R.

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Local Articles in Ashland

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Avoid ice dams with proper attic insulation

Do you have icicles forming on your eaves and gutters and ice collecting on your roof? An ice dam can cause serious problems without proper insulation.

Even in cold-weather climates, homes often lack insulation between the finished, occupied portion of the home and the ground. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Paul B. of Bluffton, South Carolina)
Insulation, Energy Efficiency Auditing

Exterior foundation insulation is an often overlooked home improvement. It can help stop drafts, lower energy bills and keep your house warmer during winter.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

With insulation technology always advancing, you’ve got choices to make when it comes to the material you pick, says Lindus. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Lynn M. of Columbus, Georgia)
Insulation

Thinking of installing your own insulation? One highly rated provider shares six things that every homeowner should be aware of before attempting to DIY.

Before winter arrives, ensure your attic is sealed properly and has both adequate insulation and ventilation. (Photo courtesy of member Kitty Jones of Columbus, Ohio)
Insulation, Heating & A/C, Roofing

A comfortable, energy efficient home starts at the top. Those hot spots and cold rooms may relate to problems in your attic. Beyond adding insulation, what's a homeowner to do?

Angie's Answers

?

Google and read about it. Some people swear by it, though their comments sound suspiciously like they were all written by the same person. Some call it a rip off - expecially people paying $6000-8000 for what would normally be a $1,000 range job.

I would not call it an outright fraud as they are providing a product that has some potential merit in the right application, but from a technical standpoint it sounds suspicious. They claim a 1/4 mat with doiuble sided foil facing is R-16 insulation. This at least is deceptive - they appear to be saying its radiant heat reflective properties give the equivalent of R-16 insulation, because there is NO WAY 1/4" foam is going to yield R-16 in an ASTM test for insulation, which is a thermal conductivity test. Would be lucky to get R-2 or so as an insulator, so this is basically a radiant barrier. Competing products from national brandname manufacturers list R value of 3.8-4.2 for one inch mats, so the equivalent for this 1/4" mat would be expected to be in the R1 range.

Properly installed, with ventilation on BOTH sides, it can be slightly effective in reducing radiant heat loss from the house, and more effective in reflecting heat in the attic from coming down into the house. However, from a thermodynamic and vapor control standpoint, they are trouble unless their integration into the house envelope is designed VERY carefully. Short explanation:

1) for keeping heat in the house, if they are installed above the attic floor insulation they can slightly limit air loss through the ceiling, and reflect radiant heat back down, resulting in warmer insulation, hence a warmer ceiling - but not as marked an improvement as added insulation would give.

2) for keeping attic heat from getting into the ceiling, they do reflect back a good portion of the radiant heat coming from the roof sheathing. This reduces the attic floor insulation surface temperature, so can reduce air conditioning cost. it does increase teh temperature in the attic, which can be very bad for support timbers and the roof sheathing.

3) the worst thing about how this type of foil radiant barrier is used is that, unless it has free air space on both sides, it acts as a vapor barrier. In the typicall application as a blanket over attic floor insulation, it traps any moisture coming up from the house, and can cause mildew and rot, especially in climates where the outdoor temperature gets quite cold.

4) the attic fans are generally a last resort measure - the normal house does much better, at no energy cost, using ridge vents with adequate eave openings to provide ventilation and cooling in the attic.

5) their effectiveness in winter heat diminshes rapidly with time - tests of attic radiant barriers show they lose about half their effectvieness within 5 years, because even a light dust coating greatly reduces their ability to reflect radiant heat, and greatly increases the absorption of heat from the hot air above them.

6) pay attention to cost - from what I see, their installed cost is many times the cost of normal insualtion or radiant barrier placement.

I would say, in summary, buyer beware, and I would be inherently leery of a product being sold the same way timeshares and "secret" moneymaking schemes are.

?

Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

?

A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.

?
Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
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Insulation reviews in Ashland

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Rating
One
Ashland Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
Home insulated my ranch house in January 2015. In short I highly recommend them: they did very professional work at a reasonable price, made sure we knew what we were getting beforehand and didn’t send the final bill until they knew we were satisfied with everything. They went out of their way to do the job right and to put the customer first. We are so glad we chose them.
More details:
Ashland Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was our first contact as he assessed what wanted done, took measurements, and explained their recommended insulation process and options we might consider. He did not high-pressure us. To qualify us for a NICOR rebate (which we got more than we expected), he explained the value of their doing a blower-door test (and a CAS safety test) both before and after the insulation work. Another company we had bid the job did not offer this. One
Ashland Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
Home’s lead people are all BPI-certified and they know their business very well (as my BPI-certified carpenter friend assured us).
Ashland Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
later came out and did the tests. He was very helpful in explaining things. I had never heard of a CAS test, but I’m glad they did it (in and out) and explained how to keep my house safe.
They determined that our eave vents had insufficient air-flow, and for a great price offered to cut bigger holes. On insulation day, I watched as
Ashland Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
carefully removed the aluminum siding to check. Sometimes there were no hole and at best there were only small (4-inch round) holes. For all the vents, he cut appropriate-sized holes and replaced the siding neatly.
The 1800-square-foot attic required a lot of preparation, and special attention, which they attended to well. Then they blew in an R-49 depth of NuWool cellulose insulation (actually more to allow for future settling). My previous research
Ashland Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
me to believe NuWool would be the best for us and that is what they use. The attached photo shows how nicely the attic looked when they were done.
We also chose to have closed-cell foam insulation put into our basement where the joists meet the outer walls. This was also done very well. Unexpectedly, it turns out, my family was a bit sensitive to the outgassing of this insulation. In response to this, One
Ashland Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
Home did all they could to accommodate us in this, including sending out a professional air-cleaning company, and discounting the final bill to accommodate for our inconvenience. While it took longer than we anticipated for the smell to dissipate, it finally did. Running into this issue, though, made us extra thankful that we had chosen One
Ashland Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
Home, because I can’t think of another company that would have been so responsive to us.
Ashland Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
, in the office, was 100% committed to making sure we were satisfied before he sent us the final bill.
- Mark D.
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Rating
Everyone from the kind lady on the phone (Barb), to the technicians who did the work (
Ashland Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and
Ashland Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
), and the man who gave me the analysis and estimate (Rich) were what service people should be, They were professional in their communications and excelled at their work. They went above and beyond what was expected. The final good turn of their efforts was when they borrowed a staple gun from me and somehow it didn't work when they were finished with it. They bought a new gun the next day and replaced my old one (
Ashland Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
). Job well done!
- Jim C.
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Fantastic experience; from 1st consultation visit to the follow up phone call after the project was completed. Great communication, great customer service. I am a former engineer and currently the CEO of an organization in the service industry. (therefor, high maintenance) and I say without hesitation they they're phenomenal.
- Kevin J.
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Rating
4 workers and
Ashland Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
man came on time for 3 days. Went right to work, covering access ways with drop clothes, and started to bring in materials and work took about 1/2 hour, lunch and back to work. Did this for three days. Cleaned up when finished. Did great job.
- Dan S.
A

Rating
They do great work. Very friendly. Honest. Very good fair prices. Highly recommended.
- Reid R.
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Rating
Ashland Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and
Ashland Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
arrived on time. They worked diligently without taking any breaks until the job was completed. They cleaned up neatly. Both were very polite. Return visit to check out satisfaction with their work.
- Jo Lynn B.
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Rating
Received phone calls before arrival alerting me to time which was great. Very professional, courteous. Explained process - everything cleaned up on departure.
- Julie B.
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Rating
Ashland Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
, the owner of the company, was extremely professional, helpful and transparent when I was getting foam insulation estimates for my home which I plan to do within the next month or two. He provided me with great background information about the types of foam he uses in comparison to others on the
Ashland Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
. ...More /> He bends over backwards to ensure you know what you're buying and says he will beat any price of a legitimate competitor. He stays in contact with you during the entire process until you're completely satisfied. He's definitely on my short list!
- Ed B.

All Insulation Contractors in Ashland, NE

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Abbott's Roofing Siding Gutters

1634 Riverview Rd
Yutan

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

ARNOLD ENTERPRISES, LLC

4700 Lakeland Dr
Blair

Beyond Dreams Construction LLC

14301 FNB Parkway
Omaha

Bold Renovations

1383 E 2nd St
Fremont

Carlisle Insulation, Inc.

5016 Woolworth Ave
Omaha

Corrado Construction

1605 S 94th St
Omaha

Dew Right Construction

1409 Dorene Blvd

Dri-Tech Systems LLC

14301 First National Bank Pkwy STE 100
Omaha

DW Contracting

PO Box 641622
Omaha

Exterior Touch Inc.

12610 Waverly RD.
Waverly

Goslin Contracting

6116 Militarty Ave
Omaha

Handyman Joes

3706 S 138TH ST
Omaha

Handyman Remodeling

22615 Fairview Rd
Gretna

Handyman Service Professionals

4089 South 84th Street
La Vista

home science solutions

1904 Washington St
Blair

ICJ General Contractor Inc

1713 N 42nd St
Omaha

JC Construction

418 n. 4th St.
Plattsmouth

JW Builders Inc

8816 Monroe St
Omaha

Lasting Improvements

5062 S 107th St
Omaha

LIQUID FOAM INSULATION

2116 Madison St
Omaha

McElroy Service Experts

807 Claude Rd
Grand Island

MIKE SZYNSKIE HOME IMPROVEMENTS

8003 Azule Cir
Papillion

Nebraska Building Prods

6614 Irvington Rd
Omaha

qdi drywall,inc

1215 Royal Dr
Papillion

RoofMasters

5215 S 91st St
Omaha

Takoda Green Roofing Inc

2905 N. Street
Omaha

Terminix - Omaha

9312 G Ct
Omaha

That Construction Company

8170 Old Carriage court N

Thrasher Basement Systems

12330 Cary Cir
Omaha

USA Insulation

4213 S 87th St
Omaha

Valley Boys Roofing

10547 Bondesson Circle
Omaha

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WD Spray Foam Solutions, LLC

P.O. Box 194
Humboldt

WD Spray Foam Solutions, LLC

P.O. Box 194
Humboldt

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