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"It couldn't have been better!
responded promptly, showed up exactly when he said he would, and was reasonably priced. He was professional" and courteous and after being frustrated by a lack of service in the service industry,
was a pleasant surprise! He finished a job started by another electrician and he is definitely my electrician of choice now!! Finding people like
is the reason why I love Angie's List.

-Katherine M.

"It went very well.
showed up right on time. They were honest and knowledgeable from the start, persuading me" that I did not really need an additional sub panel which I had requested that would have almost doubled the bill. I'm not an electrician, but I can say that their work looks neat and professional and of much better quality than the other electrical work done in the house. Both
were kind and courteous to my wife and I. They did a great job patching the one small hole they need to make in order to run the wires and they cleaned up after themselves when they left. I am very pleased with the work and plan to use
and his crew for several future projects.


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Local Articles in Adams

snowy house

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Ryan Electric owner Pat Ryan says he always makes sure clients inspect his work and are satisfied before he leaves a job. (Photo courtesy of Brody Ryan)

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

electrical wiring

Electrical work requires trade knowledge and following code regulations in most states

outdoor lighting electricity
Lighting, Electrical

If you're experiencing electrical problems in your home or want to add capacity for new projects, consider hiring an electrician for these four services.

An outside outlet needs to be weather protected and include a ground fault circuit interrupter. (Photo by Gretchen Becker)

What does it take to install an outdoor outlet, and how much does it cost? Highly rated electricians say it’s not as difficult or costly as you might think.

One LED can last up to 50,000 hours, the equivalent of 42 60-watt incandescent bulbs. (Photo by Hugh Vandivier)
Lighting, Electrical

LED lights are quickly becoming popular choices for interior home lighting, but can they really compete with incandescent bulbs? Are there any downsides to using light-emitting diodes?

Angie's Answers

Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).


Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.


An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.


A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.


Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.


If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.


I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.


IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.


Electrical reviews in Adams


Excellent. I called on Tuesday morning around 7:30 for an electrician for that morning.
Adams Electricians Provider Name Locked
Adams Electricians Provider Name Locked
showed up at ~8:15 which is the time he called and said he would be there. I told him what I needed done and he gave me the quote and went to work. He was done and gone by ~ 11:00 AM.

To people that complain about pricing spend some time watching what your contractors do while at your house. Like normal when a contractor is working at my house I prep as much of it as possible so they don't waste their time (and my money) working on ancillary stuff. Before
Adams Electricians Provider Name Locked
got there I had already pulled the flooring in the attic above the garage (allowing access to the lights) and hung the new fixture in the garage. This meant
Adams Electricians Provider Name Locked
spent most of his time doing electrician work (running wire, making connections, etc) and not everything else necessary beforehand. If you can't or don't want to do this prep work beforehand that is fine....just expect to pay more for their time to do it. Thanks for the excellent work. Ill call when my new light kit gets in for yall to come hang it.
Adams Electricians Provider Name Locked

- Josh A.

First you can see that most people have had good luck with this provider. Angie's relies on reviews that are not so good too though. My experience was not positive. I saw a deal on Amazon Local for $150 for two hours of electrical work. I had recently purchased a home with a detached garage with wiring that was a handyman's mess. There were three switches that needed to be rewired. I thought having an electrician out for a couple of hours could resolve it so I purchased the deal. To start then they had sold so many of the deals that I would have to wait six weeks to get anyone out. No refunds. Out of luck. So I schedule the appointment and waited. The appointment was set up for the electrician to arrive between noon and 4pm. Sort of like getting cable TV installed. The day of the appointment the repair person arrived at 3:55pm - having gone from Mpls to
Adams Electricians Provider Name Locked
and up to my house in a northern suburb. It was getting dark within 30-40 minutes so he worked on what he could via flashlight. One outlet was declared impossible right away, and one got fixed and tidied up. That was it. After 1 hour and 40 minutes I was told we were out of time and that was that. I had him look at a job in the house I wanted a quote on, he took a look and a quick picture and said the boss would get back to me the next day. Never did. When I reached out to the boss about the 1hr 40min vs. 2 hours I had paid for, I was told that according to their GPS he was actually there for 1 hr and 49 minute, which was about right based on walking into the house. Both are less than 2 hours. When I requested a refund for principle - the 20 minutes I did not get I was told no refunds, no adjustments. Nice enough guys I guess, but 2 hours is 2 hours and probably shouldn't start at dark. If you have something relatively simply and can get your appointment in the morning (albeit 6 wks later) Groupon or Amazon Local deals for this company may work. If anything more complex you might
Adams Electricians Provider Name Locked
further. Or pay full price which might get you a better experience.
- Craig J.

I paid this for them to come out and flip a switch as it turns out lol. To the owner's credit, he tried to tell my daughter how to check to see if that is all that was needed but we couldn't find the switch. So when they got here, I asked if they would put two ceiling fans up and ran to the store to get the second one. The first guys would not wait a couple of minutes to put the second one in so as they had just left the house, we called to schedule for them to come out to put the second one up and the owner made the two guys come back. However, they said they still couldn't install it because the pole coming from the ceiling wasn't long enough. So we scheduled for another visit and I went to Home Depot and got an extender. However, when the second guy came (who was much nicer than the first two guys), he tried really hard to install it but he ultimately could not do it because he said the shape of the ring at the top that goes up against the ceiling was not circular. So I still don't have a ceiling fan up there but I am still impressed with the owner even though every person he has may not be as willing to go above and beyond as the second guy he sent out.
- Kandy K.

Added a new light fixture in a hallway, operated by the same switch, and just 6 feet vertically above, an existing light fixture that is close
to the floor. But after the work was done ( a 30 to 40 minute job), I was incorrectly presented with a bill for $149.
Though I tried to explain to the electrician that I had already bought a $69 coupon, which was good for one hour of labor as shown on their site on Angie's List, he went into some explanation that did not make sense to me. So I decided to pay him the extra $80 ($149 less the $69 for which I already had a credit) on my credit card, and to take it up later with
Adams Electricians Provider Name Locked
, the owner. I was not disappointed when I called and spoke to
Adams Electricians Provider Name Locked
. He carefully listened to me and agreed with me that I was overcharged, and said he would tear up the credit card slip for the extra $80 that was incorrectly charged.
The moral of the story here is that when you enlist the services of a company that has earned an "A" average from a large number of Angie's List customers, and you have not been satisfied for one or more reasons, don't hesitate to contact the owner directly and present your case. I give
Adams Electricians Provider Name Locked
Salad Electric an "A" rating in every category.
- George D.

He arrived exactly on time and was very professional. He got to work quickly and completed my entire to-do list within an hour. He spent some more time helping investigate the wiring configuration in some other areas of the house, and he also answered questions on another upcoming renovation project we are planning (for which we will consider T&D)
- Stephanie O.

Adams Electricians Provider Name Locked
showed up right on time he was actually early. He got right to work and and inspected all the receptacles in my
unit. He was here for about 40 minutes. I would hire him for any task involving elecrical

They took off their shoes as requested and were punctual. The job was completed within 30 minutes, so I didn't have to wait all day.
- Tenesha H.

Adams Electricians Provider Name Locked
,which i jumped on. Everyone there
Adams Electricians Provider Name Locked
Adams Electricians Provider Name Locked
K and
Adams Electricians Provider Name Locked
. are fantastic. My confidence in them and their workmanship is great .Four separate lines in my basement, rewiring new lights in bathroom, and installing exhaust for new bathroom. I gladly hand out their cards to friends so they can also get great service. Who ever reads this trust me. You too will be impressed by them. Give them a call. You wont regret.
- denise F.

All Electricians in Adams, NE

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A/C Lightning Protection Inc.

209 plaza drive
West Point

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave SE

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd




320 6TH

Capitol City Electric Inc

9060 Andermatt Dr.

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

Exquisite Designs

47332 Sterdley Falls


1323 S 4TH AVE

Kruse Electric Co Inc

2515 Lincoln Hwy W
Grand Island


1001 19th Avenue



Trustworthy Hardware

25410 Park Ave


12637 S 265 W Suite 100


PO Box 70866
Adams Zip Codes

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