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A
"
gave a detailed, thorough written estimate of how to best air seal and insulate the attic. He had expert knowledge which correlated accurately" with all of our online research, including pricing.
,
and
arrived on time, were careful to keep the house clean, and performed all the work in the 3.5 h timeframe they had promised. They came on a Saturday (and also for the estimate) which was very helpful for those who work M-F. They reviewed the plan again before starting, after finishing and showed us the final results. The house is finally warm and comfortable! I would highly recommend this company for their honesty, excellent work and customer service.

-Rita M.

A
"From start to finish this was one of the best experiences with a contractor I've ever had. I spoke with
, the owner, a few times on" the phone (very responsive - he always called me right back), and he came out to do the estimate. He was prompt and courteous, and we warmed to him immediately. (Quite a personable guy!)
is a straight shooter, a more old-school kind of guy - which I like. It's apparent that he wants to give his customers the best service and product and not upsell them on anything. The only thing I will say is that he can talk through things very fast, and if you don't understand the
or how insulation works, it can be a bit overwhelming. But I have no doubt that if one were to stop and ask him to explain something, he would. His son works with him, and although I didn't get to meet his son, I always prefer businesses that are family-owned and operated, because loyalty and pride of workmanship and professionalism usually go hand-in-hand with them. So that we wouldn't have to wait several weeks,
offered us a 7:00 am slot three days after he came out to do the estimate - they had another job later in the morning but were willing to come out to do ours beforehand.
came with the crew - they were right on time, were careful about parking in our townhome parking lot (they haul a trailer with supplies behind the van), and immediately began to
down heavy canvas tarp in our entryway and up the stairs - it was clear they pay a great deal of attention to keeping things clean. When at first it looked like one part of the job would require a bit more labor,
reassured us that this would not cost us extra - he stands by his estimates. (As it turned out, that extra work was not needed.)
and his crew were professional, worked quickly and efficiently, and had finished, cleaned up, and left in two hours - the exact timeframe he predicted. I am 100% pleased with my experience with
and
. My only regret - that they don't do everything, because I'd be happy to have them in my house for plumbing jobs, painting, repair work, remodeling, etc. But I doubt I'll need to get my house re-insulated any time soon - thanks to their quality work and product.

-Thankful V.

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Local Articles in Mott

snowy house

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Without proper insulation and venting in your attic, icicles can form on your eaves, leading to a damaging ice dam on your roof, says Neubecker. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Donna B. of Mendota Heights, Minn.)

Avoid ice dams with proper attic insulation

Do you have icicles forming on your eaves and gutters and ice collecting on your roof? An ice dam can cause serious problems without proper insulation.

Even in cold-weather climates, homes often lack insulation between the finished, occupied portion of the home and the ground. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Paul B. of Bluffton, South Carolina)
Insulation, Energy Efficiency Auditing

Exterior foundation insulation is an often overlooked home improvement. It can help stop drafts, lower energy bills and keep your house warmer during winter.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

With insulation technology always advancing, you’ve got choices to make when it comes to the material you pick, says Lindus. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Lynn M. of Columbus, Georgia)
Insulation

Thinking of installing your own insulation? One highly rated provider shares six things that every homeowner should be aware of before attempting to DIY.

Before winter arrives, ensure your attic is sealed properly and has both adequate insulation and ventilation. (Photo courtesy of member Kitty Jones of Columbus, Ohio)
Insulation, Heating & A/C, Roofing

A comfortable, energy efficient home starts at the top. Those hot spots and cold rooms may relate to problems in your attic. Beyond adding insulation, what's a homeowner to do?

Angie's Answers

?

Google and read about it. Some people swear by it, though their comments sound suspiciously like they were all written by the same person. Some call it a rip off - expecially people paying $6000-8000 for what would normally be a $1,000 range job.

I would not call it an outright fraud as they are providing a product that has some potential merit in the right application, but from a technical standpoint it sounds suspicious. They claim a 1/4 mat with doiuble sided foil facing is R-16 insulation. This at least is deceptive - they appear to be saying its radiant heat reflective properties give the equivalent of R-16 insulation, because there is NO WAY 1/4" foam is going to yield R-16 in an ASTM test for insulation, which is a thermal conductivity test. Would be lucky to get R-2 or so as an insulator, so this is basically a radiant barrier. Competing products from national brandname manufacturers list R value of 3.8-4.2 for one inch mats, so the equivalent for this 1/4" mat would be expected to be in the R1 range.

Properly installed, with ventilation on BOTH sides, it can be slightly effective in reducing radiant heat loss from the house, and more effective in reflecting heat in the attic from coming down into the house. However, from a thermodynamic and vapor control standpoint, they are trouble unless their integration into the house envelope is designed VERY carefully. Short explanation:

1) for keeping heat in the house, if they are installed above the attic floor insulation they can slightly limit air loss through the ceiling, and reflect radiant heat back down, resulting in warmer insulation, hence a warmer ceiling - but not as marked an improvement as added insulation would give.

2) for keeping attic heat from getting into the ceiling, they do reflect back a good portion of the radiant heat coming from the roof sheathing. This reduces the attic floor insulation surface temperature, so can reduce air conditioning cost. it does increase teh temperature in the attic, which can be very bad for support timbers and the roof sheathing.

3) the worst thing about how this type of foil radiant barrier is used is that, unless it has free air space on both sides, it acts as a vapor barrier. In the typicall application as a blanket over attic floor insulation, it traps any moisture coming up from the house, and can cause mildew and rot, especially in climates where the outdoor temperature gets quite cold.

4) the attic fans are generally a last resort measure - the normal house does much better, at no energy cost, using ridge vents with adequate eave openings to provide ventilation and cooling in the attic.

5) their effectiveness in winter heat diminshes rapidly with time - tests of attic radiant barriers show they lose about half their effectvieness within 5 years, because even a light dust coating greatly reduces their ability to reflect radiant heat, and greatly increases the absorption of heat from the hot air above them.

6) pay attention to cost - from what I see, their installed cost is many times the cost of normal insualtion or radiant barrier placement.

I would say, in summary, buyer beware, and I would be inherently leery of a product being sold the same way timeshares and "secret" moneymaking schemes are.

?

Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

?

A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.

?
Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
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Insulation reviews in Mott

A

Rating
The men came on time, and did all the work outlined above. Very professional and very neat in doing the work and cleaning up afterwards. We have noticed a big improvement in the air quality in the house, no musty smell and it seems warmer throughout the house. I really think the work completed was done very professionally and I would definitely recommend using this company!
- Laverne T.
A

Rating
Mott Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
, the estimator, was very professional, thoroughly answered all of our questions, was timely in his issuing the proposal, and followed up with me after the job was completed to see if everything was done to my satisfaction. The crew who came to do the job were also very professional, arrived on time, reviewed the work to be done with me so that we were in agreement, conducted the work in a timely manner, and left the house and work area in a clean condition.
I would definitely recommend them.
- Paul G.
A

Rating
Mott Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
service/sales people are very professional. They made it seem as though we were getting the work done through our friends. They were able to give us all of the information we were looking for, provided lots of options and were very patient with us. We shopped around and found that their prices were very reasonable. The projects went well. We have recommended
Mott Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
to our family and friends.
- Kathy C.
A

Rating
The company was OK. Upon inspection several things were noticed. They were to install a roof attic fan. The existing unit was not operating and the unit quoted was not were we wanted. We simply decided to repair the existing unit. The tech was good enuff to explain possible insulation work for future consideration but not at this time.
- Peter S.
A

Rating
Mott Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
's team did a great job. Very clean and careful with the house abd new central air equipment. On time and very easy to work with.
- Marshall F.
D

Rating
I purchased a home that had been repaired by
Mott Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
Reconstruction. They have a 5 year warranty, but would not transfer the warranty even though the work was just done. My inspector found a lot of things that were done very poorly by this provider. The crawlspace was a mess with debris left by them, the insulation was falling down, there was mold. The sellers were very upset because they had paid a lot of money for these repairs. In the end, I had to hire another contractor to get the repairs completed to a quality level. I spoke with owner, who told me that his policy was to not transfer the warranty....not suprising since the quality of the repair was lacking.
- Mary P.
A

Rating
I first called
Mott Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
as
Mott Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was recommended by an energy auditor.
He
came out to the home and inspected the attic, basement, garage, and a
few other places in the house that potentially needed work.
I let
him know that I was interested in doing some work on the house myself
to save a bit of money, and he gave me some good advice to do so.
Mott Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
ended up insulating the attic (blown-in cellulose)
and spray-foaming the basement. Even so, he took a look in the garage
attic and made some suggestions on small improvements that I could do on
my own.
I worked on the attic to remove old insulation
Mott Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
but
couldn't finish it after all. The day before coming to do the blown-in
cellulose, I gave them a call and they were able to accommodate the
slight change in plan without any trouble at all. This was a relief.
It
might have been somewhat my own fault for not investigating further,
but the job description said they would "mesh and dense pack knee walls"
in the attic. I had interpreted that to mean that they would install
dense-packed cellulose in the attic on the knee walls. Instead, a
cheesecloth type paper was stapled and the loose packed cellulose was
packed inside. Was slightly disappointed in this at first, but it seems
like it's of little consequence. It's worth mentioning since it's
probably a common misunderstanding.
On a second trip a few days
later, they came out and spray-foamed the rim-joist in the basement. In
both cases, everything went smoothly.
Overall, happy with the experience and believe that the work was done satisfactorily.
- Chris Y.
A

Rating
Hot and Cold water pipes insulated in the
Mott Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
. This company performs a 10Pt.
Mott Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
inspection for mold, fungi, termites, structure damage and vents.
As a victim of Super Storm Sandy, I needed mold remediation both in the
Mott Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and garage....after meeting with many companies I chose
Mott Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
.
Mott Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
the owner was very clear as to what he felt needed to be done and provided in writing each service and cost for each...not all lumped together as most vendors presented.
Mott Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
's prices were not the cheapest but they were very reasonable and comparable to other vendors. The remediation had to be done quickly and
Mott Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
made sure he provided all services timely and very professionally. He provides pictures of before and after for all his work another excellent service. As a retired, single women, it's very comforting having a reputable company to work with and an owner that responds immediately. I would highly recommend this company to all of your subscribers with absolutely no reservations.
- Bernadette R.

All Insulation Contractors in Mott, ND

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Acorn Insulation

396 Maple Ln SE

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

Blast Pro

1016 17th St NE
Mandan

Dom's CF Home Improvements

304 18th St SW
Minot

E A Anderson Construction

617 Arnold Ave
Portland

Exterior Touch Inc.

12610 Waverly RD.

Harcourt Construction

PO Box 4131
Minot

Home Vision Construction

PO Box 502
Minot

Panther Construction LLC.

P.O. Box 1967
Watford City

T Bar M Building Company,LLC

660 4th Ave SW
Dickinson

t mcdonald lightning rod systems

1940 South Broadway #366
Minot

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

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Mott Zip Codes

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