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A
"Sunlight was very professional throughout the process with an excellent end result.
, the salesman, was very informative with many videos" and articles to answer all my questions. From start to finish, everyone involved was extremely helpful and professional. Sunlight made this process very easy for me and I would highly recommend anyone needing spray foam to call
at Sunlight.

-michael B.

F
"DO NOT USE THEM!!!!!!!!! This was the worst mistake. We had recently bought an older home that needed some insulation. We have 4 small children and the house was" extremely cold. We met with
who came out to give an estimate. Everything sounded good so we agreed to do it. The day of the service the 2 workers who came out barely spoke any English or understood it. They did not finish the job. They left the insulation uncovered. We called about 5 times and emailed. I even spoke to the owner who said he would call me back and never did. We had to hire another company to finish the job and pay more. This winter the pipe behind our dishwasher froze and the repairman said it wasn't fully insulated behind it. Then our heating bill last month was $500.00. This was more than before it was done. This was a rip off and the most unprofessional job and people. DO NOT RECOMMEND THEM!

-Colleen M.

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Local Articles in Youngsville

Avoid ice dams with proper attic insulation

Do you have icicles forming on your eaves and gutters and ice collecting on your roof? An ice dam can cause serious problems without proper insulation.

Even in cold-weather climates, homes often lack insulation between the finished, occupied portion of the home and the ground. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Paul B. of Bluffton, South Carolina)
Insulation, Energy Efficiency Auditing

Exterior foundation insulation is an often overlooked home improvement. It can help stop drafts, lower energy bills and keep your house warmer during winter.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

With insulation technology always advancing, you’ve got choices to make when it comes to the material you pick, says Lindus. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Lynn M. of Columbus, Georgia)
Insulation

Thinking of installing your own insulation? One highly rated provider shares six things that every homeowner should be aware of before attempting to DIY.

Before winter arrives, ensure your attic is sealed properly and has both adequate insulation and ventilation. (Photo courtesy of member Kitty Jones of Columbus, Ohio)
Insulation, Heating & A/C, Roofing

A comfortable, energy efficient home starts at the top. Those hot spots and cold rooms may relate to problems in your attic. Beyond adding insulation, what's a homeowner to do?

Angie's Answers

?

Google and read about it. Some people swear by it, though their comments sound suspiciously like they were all written by the same person. Some call it a rip off - expecially people paying $6000-8000 for what would normally be a $1,000 range job.

I would not call it an outright fraud as they are providing a product that has some potential merit in the right application, but from a technical standpoint it sounds suspicious. They claim a 1/4 mat with doiuble sided foil facing is R-16 insulation. This at least is deceptive - they appear to be saying its radiant heat reflective properties give the equivalent of R-16 insulation, because there is NO WAY 1/4" foam is going to yield R-16 in an ASTM test for insulation, which is a thermal conductivity test. Would be lucky to get R-2 or so as an insulator, so this is basically a radiant barrier. Competing products from national brandname manufacturers list R value of 3.8-4.2 for one inch mats, so the equivalent for this 1/4" mat would be expected to be in the R1 range.

Properly installed, with ventilation on BOTH sides, it can be slightly effective in reducing radiant heat loss from the house, and more effective in reflecting heat in the attic from coming down into the house. However, from a thermodynamic and vapor control standpoint, they are trouble unless their integration into the house envelope is designed VERY carefully. Short explanation:

1) for keeping heat in the house, if they are installed above the attic floor insulation they can slightly limit air loss through the ceiling, and reflect radiant heat back down, resulting in warmer insulation, hence a warmer ceiling - but not as marked an improvement as added insulation would give.

2) for keeping attic heat from getting into the ceiling, they do reflect back a good portion of the radiant heat coming from the roof sheathing. This reduces the attic floor insulation surface temperature, so can reduce air conditioning cost. it does increase teh temperature in the attic, which can be very bad for support timbers and the roof sheathing.

3) the worst thing about how this type of foil radiant barrier is used is that, unless it has free air space on both sides, it acts as a vapor barrier. In the typicall application as a blanket over attic floor insulation, it traps any moisture coming up from the house, and can cause mildew and rot, especially in climates where the outdoor temperature gets quite cold.

4) the attic fans are generally a last resort measure - the normal house does much better, at no energy cost, using ridge vents with adequate eave openings to provide ventilation and cooling in the attic.

5) their effectiveness in winter heat diminshes rapidly with time - tests of attic radiant barriers show they lose about half their effectvieness within 5 years, because even a light dust coating greatly reduces their ability to reflect radiant heat, and greatly increases the absorption of heat from the hot air above them.

6) pay attention to cost - from what I see, their installed cost is many times the cost of normal insualtion or radiant barrier placement.

I would say, in summary, buyer beware, and I would be inherently leery of a product being sold the same way timeshares and "secret" moneymaking schemes are.

?

Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

?

A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.

?
Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
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Insulation reviews in Youngsville

D

Rating
I want to improve the insulation in my attic. I called in the hopes of scheduling an appointment, but I would also have loved to hear more information about the kinds of work that
Youngsville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
does. The person who answers the phone would not discuss anything. She was only willing to take my contact information, and, frankly, she wasn't even very good at that! If they're really swamped, she should say so! As a human being, she should be willing to give some basic information! How soon can I expect a return call? Does
Youngsville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
even do the kind of work that I'm interested in? It's very discouraging.
- Katherine E.
A

Rating
We had two separate attic spaces and they ran into some difficulties with amount of left over shingles and oddities left in one attic space and some equipment problems. But came back a second day to finish the job with better equipment and more people. It wasn't an easy job and it was located in an attic that i couldn't even begin to get into. So I am happy with the work and glad it was done correctly.
- DON K.
A

Rating
I decided that I wanted to upgrade the 50 year old fiberglass
Youngsville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
insulation in my attic. I talked with three insulation contractors and got six different opinions. I ended up doing a lot of my own research and ultimately concluded that, despite the higher cost, spray foam was the way to go. Of the three contractors,
Youngsville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
, and specifically
Youngsville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
Lane, really came across as knowing their trade. They install both open and closed cell foam and know the pros and cons of both.
Youngsville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
is a building science guy and really knows his stuff.
Youngsville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
did blower door testing before and after the job to confirm the quality of their work and to verify the state of the building envelope. Several other contractors didn't even do blower door testing. Due to my relatively low roof pitch and my desire to keep as much attic space as possible (HVAC gear is in the attic), we decided to use 8" (R-30) of open cell foam for the first four feel up along the roof deck, and then 4.75" of closed cell foam from there to the roof peak. This wasn't the cheapest option, but I feel it gave a great result in my house. We schedule with
Youngsville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
about two weeks in advance. They arrived on time, with a crew of three guys and two spray rigs. The guys were great - they were long term
Youngsville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
employees and were all native English speakers. They immediately got to work protecting the carpet and landscaping around the job site and then started spraying. It took about 7 hours to complete the job and we stayed overnight with friends to let the house air out. There was only a tiny bit of odor left when we returned. Comfort in the house is noticeably better. Boiler run times are down, even in colder weather. The blower door test showed a 30% improvement in air infiltration. And, since my attic will now be conditioned space, there should be considerable A/C savings as well now that my air handler won't be in 110F+ temps in the attic! I spent a lot of time learning about my options and then even more time talking to different spray foam contractors. I couldn't be happier with the experience I had with
Youngsville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and with
Youngsville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
. I highly recommend them and would hire them again.
- CLIFFORD H.
A

Rating
Youngsville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and a technician,
Youngsville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
, I believe, arrived promptly as scheduled to do the inspection and analysis that we had purchased an Angie's List deal for. They were both very kind, warm people, and were very thorough and professional. The inspection didn't take too long, and I was emailed quotes for two different options to fix the system the next day.
We chose to go with the partial replacement option (rather than total replacement), and they scheduled the work to begin the next week. When the day arrived for the work to be done, the technician,
Youngsville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
, kept me updated on their anticipated arrival time by text, and also sent me a message any time they had to run out for extra supplies. I was kept well-informed through the whole process. In all, the work took about a day and a half, and we were blown away by the quality and professionalism of their work and demeanor. Highly recommend!
- Brittany R.
A

Rating
The deal was very misleading. They wouldn’t just come and do the $200 worth of insulation. They gave me an estimate for $2800. I asked them to breakdown the services so I could choose what to do, but I didn’t hear back from them. They were nice and I would consider using them in the future.
- Kerri S.
A

Rating
Took attic from R11- R60. Felt difference immediately as house is not so drafty and stays warmer, heat coming on less. They gave me a discount because of a scheduling conflict that I appreciate v. much. Also added insulation to wall switchplates and foam around plumbing at kitchen and bathroom sinks. Nice touch! This company is very professional, my experience with everyone was good from start to finish. It is easy to tell what companies want to be successful and do it by giving the best service to their customers that they can. They are serious about being organized, customer friendly, and doing a great job. I highly recommend them.
Youngsville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
P.
- Donna P.
A

Rating
We received a quote months past when we were looking to replace our furnace. Ended up holding off on furnace install, but after starting a mini basement redo, we decided to go ahead with the spray foam insulation. We e-mailed and had a date set up for the following week. Installers arrived exactly on time and walked them through the area. Very good crew, and after they were done they walked me through the basement and let me check the job and thickness of the foam application. Found a couple areas to touch up which they did at that time. They then further explained the benefits we should see. Price was fair. Would consider them again.
- Laura P.
A

Rating
It went great! The technician was very knowledgeable and saved me a lot of money on my energy bill. I would definitely recommend this company!
- Robert M.

All Insulation Contractors in Youngsville, NC

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

2-brother renovation

220 dogwood st
Cary

3G construction

Burlington

7 Star General Contracting LLC

1444 Cairo Way
Fuquay Varina

A+ Mor Remodeling

6711 ROCK GLEN WAY
Raleigh

Affordable Home Improvement

10301 Falls Mill Dr
Raleigh

Allied Spray Foams Inc

2624 Avent Ferry Rd
Holly Springs

ALLPRO INSULATION

PO Box 395
Youngsville

American Craftsmen of NC

1921 N Pointe Dr
Durham

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

American Insulation Solutions

297 Bay Avenue NW
Concord

ARS / Rescue Rooter Raleigh

517 Pylon Dr
Raleigh

Baker Roofing Co

517 Mercury St
Raleigh

Bragg Premier Home Improvements

65 Edgemont Ave
Roxboro

C & S CONTRACTING INC

4605 TREADSTONE CT
Raleigh

Carolina Fix-It, Inc.

303 Rose Court
Benson

Carolina Restoration Services

8160 Chapel Hill Rd
Cary

Carolina Weatherization

4824 Watkins Rd.
Raleigh

Cary Reconstruction Co LLC

2410 Reliance Ave
Apex

Choice Home Improvements, Inc.

104 Oakland Ave.
Drexel

Cole Restoration Services

81 River Forest Drive
Pittsboro

Consolidated Roofing Systems

1401 Sunday Dr
Raleigh

CORE Remodeling Group Inc

2054 Kildaire Farm Rd
Cary

CORNERSTONE CONSTRUCTION

5011 DEPARTURE DR
Raleigh

CORNERSTONE RESIDENTIAL BLDRS

5405 BLUEBELL CT
Holly Springs

Craftsmen Builders

813 Prince St
Cary

Crawlspace Doctor

1420 Cozart St
Durham

CRITTER CONTROL

4225 BENNETT MEMORIAL RD
Durham

Davis Home Improvement

327 Woodchase Green Dr
Fuquay Varina

Decocorp Construction

9950 S Ocean Dr Apt 301

DHT ENTERPRISES OF DURHAM

618 N Mineral Springs Rd
Durham

DO ALL CONTRACTORS

P.O. Box 61043
Raleigh

DOUGLAS CONTRACTING

2405 Andor Pl
Raleigh

DreamQuest, Inc.

5013 N Glen Drive
Raleigh

Drurys Hobbies and Construction

13002 Eagle Ridge Drive
Zebulon

E2 Technologies, Inc.

145 US Hwy 70 W
Garner

EATMANS CARPETS & INTERIORS

8101 GLENWOOD AVE
Raleigh

ECO IRRIGATION INC

6300 Limousine Drive
Raleigh

EcoMaster LLC

2921 Glade Aster Ct
Raleigh

Emerald Energy Solutions

PO Box 99031
Raleigh

Energy One America

454 Jessen Ln

Energy Pros of NC

12335 Wake Union Church Rd
Wake Forest

EnergyTribe

510 Meadowmont Village Cir
Chapel Hill

EV MULTIPLE CONSTRUCTION,INC

1120 Delano St
Durham

Excella Roofing

112 Thistle Dr
Youngsville

Exceptional Living Solutions LLC

1125 Corporation Parkway
Raleigh

Exterior Touch Inc.

12610 Waverly RD.

Falcone Crawl Space & Structural Repair

1883 Scott Futrell Dr
Charlotte

Fan Man

119 North Main Street Suite 202
Mooresville

Fan Man Inc Raleigh

1513 Ramson Ct
Raleigh

Findlay Roofing Inc

4181 JVL Industrial Park Dr

Four of a kind Home Improvment

1613 Cool Springs Rd
Sanford

Fresh Air

Raleigh

GOG UNLIMITED,LLC

PO BOX 11164
Durham

Grade-A-Structures

5808 old nc 10
Durham

Green Planet Energy Solutions

9101 Southern Pine Blvd Ste 320
Charlotte

Green Planet Energy Solutions

9101 Southern Pine Blvd Ste 320
Charlotte

GreenTech,LLC

2500 Walnut St
Cary

H.R.S

P.O Box 1203
Durham

Handyman Advantage

PO Box 80505
Raleigh

Healthy Home Diagnostics

5420 Old Poole Rd
Raleigh

Healthy Home Restoration

6808 Branton Dr
Cary

Home Depot

9517 Strickland Rd
Raleigh

HOME DEPOT'S HOME SERVICES

920 BLAIRHILL RD
Charlotte

Home Performance NC

4608 Industry Lane
Durham

Homewarmth Inc

5222 Guess Rd
Rougemont

Hutch Sunrooms Plus

3223 US Hwy 70 W
Goldsboro

Insulating Inc / Foam Works Insulators

5902 Fayetteville Rd
Raleigh

J&S Cleaning and Repair

13200 Strickland Road
Raleigh

JES Foundation Repair

1741 Corporate Landing Parkway

Jordan's Heating and Cooling Service

114 Hillside Dr
Louisburg

JOSEPH A BRADY

314 Bowen St
Franklinton

JOURDAN INSULATION

1001 S CHATHAM AVE
Siler City

Just Josh Odd Jobs and Designs

7509 Idolbrook Ln
Raleigh

Leslie's Roofing LLC

6220 Falcon Ln

LiveGreen Inc

3115 Heritage Trade Dr
Zebulon

McNeely Pest Control

3831 Reynolda Rd
Winston Salem

Molescapes

PO Box 17128
Raleigh

NC Home Solutions

3926 Cumberland Rd
Fayetteville

NC Solar Now

3401-101 Atlantic Avenue
Raleigh

Neely Custom Builders LLC

129 Meadows Cir
Knightdale

ONOFRIO CONSTRUCTION INC

8804 Gulf Courtt Ste I
Raleigh

Orkin Pest Control

609 Mercury St
Raleigh

PATIO ENCLOSURES INC OF RALEIGH

1030 MORRISVILLE PKWY
Morrisville

Peak Energy Inc

PO Box 1241
Holly Springs

Pinter Construction & Development

11709 Appaloosa Run E
Raleigh

Prime Energy Group

PO BOX 10156
Raleigh

Professional Renovation Services

1124 Sandel Lane
Raleigh

ProTech Repair & Restoration

219-B Garner Business Ct.
Garner

RAC Construction

1108 Athens Drive
Raleigh

Raleigh Waterproofing Inc

2610 Rowland Rd
Raleigh

RAY'S HOME REPAIR

2001 BROOKS RD
Durham

Regional Waterproofing Inc

PO Box 917
Zebulon

Remediation & Consulting Services

3004 Dunkirk Dr
Raleigh

Restoration Now of North Carolina, Inc.

2113 Sandy Plains Road
Wake Forest

Romero Construction INC

910 E. Ellerbee st.
Durham

Roof Roof

2828 Queen City Dr.
Charlotte

Roseman Enterprises, Inc (dba FASTHELP

135 Victoria Hills Drive
Fuquay Varina

Scott Riley Builders Inc

326 Roseland Ave
Durham

Scotts Customs, LLC

2695 Government Road
Clayton

Sealing Agents Waterproofing

PO Box 2370
Indian Trail

SERVICE ALTERNATIVES

103 Shady Ln
Clayton

Service Experts Heating & Air Conditioning

2815 S Wilmington St
Raleigh

Shamrock Waterproofing

6021 Glenthorne Dr
Raleigh

Sivad Construction LLC

PO BOX 2291
Garner

Smith Exterminating Company, Inc

5507 Hillsborough St
Raleigh

Southern Energy Management

101 Kitty Hawk Dr
Morrisville

Spray Foam Insulation of NC

1023 Denning Road
Benson

Stetten Realty Inc

3117 Kentish Town Ln
Raleigh

SUNRISE TILE & MARBLE INSTALLATIONS

PO BOX.1085
Holly Springs

The Kitchen & Bath Showroom

1289 N Fordham Blvd
Chapel Hill

The Mold Solutions Group

2800 Winningham Rd.
Chapel Hill

Tri-City Insulation

7204 Becky Circle
Raleigh

Triangle Home Solutions

1745 Laurel Park Pl
Cary

Triangle Reconstruction

2010 Silky Dogwood Trl
Apex

Triangle Renovations Inc

2069 Bowen Rd
Rougemont

triangle restoration

9302 ten ten road
Raleigh

Trutech Inc

155 Glen Valley Rd
Raleigh

US Structures Corp

2474-337 Walnut St.
Cary

VZ Competitive Painting And Restoration

7334 Chapel Hill Rd
Raleigh

W.M. Woodworking

1609 Tall Cane Circle
Willow Spring

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Wood Termite & Pest Control, Inc.

1336 N Brightleaf Blvd
Smithfield

Woodwright Builders

1203 Bayview Ct
Franklinton

Woody's Renovations and Maintenance Inc.

136 White Oak Dr
Youngsville

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