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Local Articles in Whitakers

wood deck angie's list guide to decks and porches

Decks and Deck Maintenance

Building a deck or porch can be a great added benefit to any home. Learn about common deck materials and get tips for hiring a porch or decking contractor.

Brick colonial home with portico covered stoop

A portico is an impressive addition to the front of a home.

Composite Deck

Neglecting your deck before a renovation could cost you.

If your deck's frame isn't securely attached to your house with heavy-duty bolts, you could risk a collapse when the deck pulls away from the house (Photo courtesy of Samson Contracting LLC)

Without the proper construction techniques, your deck could put you at a safety risk.

deck with dining set

Wooden decks can deteriorate quickly without proper care and regular maintenance. Follow these 10 guidelines to make your wood deck last as long as possible.

Inspiration & Ideas

covered deck
covered deck
natural stone hardscaping
covered outdoor walkway
paver patio
fiber cement siding

Angie's Answers


I agree with Jim Casper - after about 50 years of dealing with weathered wood finishing both in my homes and in the construction business, it comes down to about 90% preparation, 10% the finishing. If you do not prep the wood right, any moisture, mold, etc in the wood will destroy whatever you put over it.

High-build finishes like paint and epoxies and, from reading the Rustoleum flyer on this new product that too, work by trying to make an impenetrable surface and depend on a very good bond with the surface, AND no water getting under them. Because they are thick and are designed to provide a waterproof surface, unfortunately where water gets under them they are just as good or better at keeping it from evaporating, so you get fungal growth, blistering, and peeling.

Unfortunately, on deck and most outdoor applications except siding the surface will get nicked, scratched and otherwise develop leaks in short order. Water will therefore get into the underlying wood, and because it entered through small cracks and scratches, does not have any airflow to make it evaporate, so it sits there and breaks the finish bond to the wood (causing peeling and blisters), and promotes decay. That is why new deck boards and siding and trim that have been heavily or multi-coat painted on all 4 sides, thinking that will give the best protection, only last a few years versus the usual 10-20 years or so for boards that are painted top and sides only.

The full sun and hot conditions will, of course, cause more thann normal heating of dark colored painted decking. I had one instance where I was doing an independent appraisal of a very large commercial deck at a government facility, and in 85-90 degree daytime temps, in the sushine the chocolate brown deck surface temp was 150 degrees, and the paint was softening so much it stuck to the bottom of your shoes a couple of months after application.

As Jim said, the studies pretty clearly show that a breathable penetrating stain gives the best life, after plain ACA/CCA (copper chromium variations - the green stuff) treated wood. Penetrating stains, properly applied, do NOT seal in the moisture, they inhibit its entry and (when dark colored) help protect against sun damage to the wood and finish, but still breathe enough to let moisture escape on dry days. For my money, I will only use petroleum distillate (paint thinner cleanup) products, as they penetrate into the wood much better. Water based ones immediately start swelling the wood pores, so it blocks further penetration of the stain, which while cleanup is a bit easier, totally defeats the purpose of a PENETRATING stain or sealer.

I would recommend against any sort of waterproofing sealer, as they trap the water just like paint, and I have never seen one that is effective for 2 years.

My personal preference, though it limits the architectural coloration possibilities, is ground-contact rated copper compound treated wood (NOT the Wolmanized brown product), which comes green initially but can be retreated with either green or brown solution or can be liquid colorized darker (though not easily to a specific tone) using either of those as a base. My practice is to redo the treatment before installation to ensure thorough treatment, as from the mill it commonly has skips where boards contacted each other or where stacking seperators laid on it, and the ends are commonly very poorly done. This is done after cutting to length, as cut ends have to be retreated anyway.  A simple short deck cleaner soak followed by a light pressure washing and brush or roller re-treating of ONLY the TOP surface every 10 years or so has, for me, reduced visible weathering of the boards and beams to negligible.

As stated by others: You get what you pay for.  Many contractors no longer use employees.  The cost/benefit ratio is gone by the time worker's comp. insurance, unemplyment and other taxes are paid.  Especially with the high turnover in our industry.  Many, myself included, have our guys set up as sub-contractors.  That means even if the job is only for a day the duties have been outlined and a set pay to complete those duties has been established from the onset.  It's a better way to manage costs once I got used to it.  Also, it means I can operate cheaper and not have to charge as much to the customer.  My agreements with my guys, which they sign, make it clear that I nor the homeowner are responsible for their safety and medical care should a problem arise and that all parties are relieved of any such obligation.  If you hire a contractor who follows this growing practice ask to see a copy of his sub-contractor agreement.

That being said, a legitimate contractor still has operating cost which vary by area and how they run their business.  I break even at $150/day not including labor and materials so I've got to charge more than that to make money.  To keep the math simple, if I'm paying $250 for a pne day job in labor plus another $300 in materials and $150 operating costs I've got to charge $700 to the customer to break even.  That's if I'm only doing one job a day which is why most of us manage several at a time.  The point I'm trying to make is that someone with the necessary knowledge and experience to build you a safe deck is not going to be cheap.  Knowledge accompanies success which costs money.

I've repaired or restructured several decks built by handymen who should find another profession.  Ask yourself this question when hiring someone for this project: Would I trust this person to build my house?  If the answer is no you need to find someone else.  The deck is just as important.  It's where your family, friends, kids are going to gather and interact.  If it isn't structurally sound it can collapse causing injury or even death.  One last word on decks: Always screw a deck together, don't nail it.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
San Antonio, TX

Assuming you buy the right size door to fit the rough opening, and that your old door is not a size that is no longer made, and that you get the correct depth and transition adapters and sills and flashing and trim and seals and such, and that you transport it home without distorting and damaging it, then removal and disposal of old one and install new one probably about $250-400 depending on how well it fits, number of transition and similar pieces that have to be assembled (from 1 or 2 for some doors to as many as 30 on others).

The laundry list of things at the start WAS intended to intimidate you - I would say not 1 in 25 homeowners who buy a new patio door have bought it the right size for the rough opening and have everything needed to install it - the contractor almost invariably has to go get materials or parts to complete the installation - sometimes waiting weeks for factory adapters that are needed or missing parts AFTER the original door has already been taken out.

I would question why you are going to probably spend as much installing a door that may not do the job for you as the cost of the door. I would hazard at least half of people who go buy a $250-400 cheap door at a box store are sorely disappointed within months - due to poorly fitted parts, bad or non-existent seals causing drafts or water leaks, fogging or breaking glass, etc.

I would recommend you assess your needs, in conjunction with your installer find a decent and reputable brand unit to fit that need and that fits the loction right, and probably pay 50% more installed but have something that you might actually be happy with. Oh - BTW - your best installers generally will not install the cheapest box store units because they do not want the callbacks, so many times the quality of the installer who will actually do the job for you at a price you are willing to pay gives you a job that is - you guessed it, worth what you paid for it.


The product has evolved considerably since the lawsuit.


I would still do your own research and give you contractor your feedback.  At the end of the day, the cost for whatever board you want will be similar. 

Deck Builders in Whitakers, NC

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!


2519 10th Street

A & P Developers

116 Halls Industrial Dr

All Day Remodeling

226 Little Ellijay Rd

ATS.home Improvements

3633 Macedonia Rd
Spring Hope


2474 sherrod rd

B&B Repairs

5084 Country Ln

Bartholomew Pressure washing

PO Box 752

Battle Plastering and assoc

4708 hickory ridge rd

Batts Home Improvement

2396 Sherrod Rd

Benchmark Roofing

809 Crowder Rd

BK Seamless Gutters and Roofing LLC

4501 New Bern Ave

Bradford Cabinet Co

109 W Edward St

Bullock's Home Improvements

607 Dabney Woods Lane


5121 Honest Bob Rd

Carolina Fix-It, Inc.

303 Rose Court

Carolina Gutter Helmet and More


Cary Reconstruction Co LLC

2410 Reliance Ave

Chris Chapman Construction

3020 Tar River Rd

Cook Roofing And Siding

2128 U.S. 64

Costin Creations LLC

109 Jaycrest Rd

curiconstruction LLC

1204 swordfish way

custom barns

2755 Salisbury Rd

Custom Docks and Decks, LLC

6107 New Sharon Church Road

Dale's Home Improvement

2521 marshall ln

Dales Home Improvement

2521 Marshall Ln
Rocky Mount

DeL carpentry llc

500 hwy 15 lot 1


1026 Blue Ridge Road

Eastern Renovators

757 falls rd

Elevate Construction Inc

1000 S Fairfield Drive

Estate Plaster Inc

5208 Foxburrow Rd

Invision Stone

11 Railroad Street

Jason T. Gear Contractor

143 Boulder Blvd

JJ Improvements and Tree Services

109 Short St

Jones Fence & Custom Vinyl, LLC

2012 Jackson Bypass Rd

Ken's Construction

1 Coltsfoot Ct

Kitchens Galore

5950 Junaluska Rd

Lamphere Construction

315 East Franklin St.


Rocky Mount

Magnolia Outdoor Living

3522 Ashford-Dunwoody Rd.

Maintenance Free Lawn Care

2841 Berkley Dr
Rocky Mount

Manning's Construction & Repair

5137 Pleasant Grove Church Rd

Marek Custom Carpentry

226 nash st

Matthew Johnson construction

Sparta North Carolina

Mckeels Home Repairs

1135 Hamilton Street
Roanoke Rapids



MLA Design Group, Inc.

120 Club Oak Ct Ste 100
Winston Salem

morales services


Mountain Building Supply

US Hwy 64 E

Nicky Overman's Siding-Window

1223 Little River Dr
Elizabeth City

Old Paths Construction, LLC

212 Harper Farm Lane
Rocky Mount

Oliver Cupboards Fine Cabinetry

225 Railroad St

Paragon Building Group, Inc.

829 Purser Drive

Perfect Coats Painting & Remodeling

8031 Goldenrain Way

Powell Handyman Company

3307 Old Battleboro Rd
Rocky Mount




3077 US HIGHWAY 64 W

Stanley Contractors

625 Berry Hill Bridge Rd

Sully's Green Clean

491 Perkins Rd

T.G. Harris Construction LLC

9904 LA Green Farm Rd

Tarheel Footprints & Transports

306 Farthing St

Taylor Family Construction

115 PicWhit Lane
Bryson City

TC construction

po box 373
Red Oak

Tri county Exteriors


Tri-County Carpentry

209 Delane Dr
Rocky Mount

Turn-Key Home Solutions

9635 NC Hwy 39

Wet Surface Technologies

1120 37th Ave Dr NE

White's Home Improvement

94 Gilbert Ln
Roanoke Rapids

Wize Home Direct

5008 Hickory Blvd

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