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F
"Dealing with this company was the worst experience my family has gone through. The job had been committed to be completed in 6 months. From start to our occupying" home the job took 14 months. We hired a home inspector who found over 30 items that needed to be addressed. The inspector had been in business for 25 years. He said our home was the worst new home construction job he'd ever seen. During the construction process we constantly had to leverage the services of our attorney in order to ensure that the terms of the contract were fulfilled. The management of this firm was often misleading with us in terms of setting expectations as well as making commitments that were constantly not met. Our dealings with them resulted in our pursuing litigation against them. During this process they constantly made dishonest statements that were proven erroneous via emails and other documents. No one should ever consider doing business with this company!!!!!

-Ruth D.

A
"They contracted with a company to preform the work. We worked with the Designer at the store and they did a beautiful job laying out the kitchen and helping us" pick out the materials for the counter tops, cabinets, appliances, sink & other hardware. They did a great job and we were very pleased with their work and would recommend them.

-Gary M.

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Local Articles in Waynesville

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Angie's Answers

?
Todd said it best.

An itemized list / cost breakdown, more often than not is used against the contractor when it is shared with other builders who will then beat it.

Good contractors use good people, and good people cost more.  Just the cost of having the appropriate insurance / bond can be the difference between winning a job or losing it ot a 'lower bid'.

It is the rule of three; there is Good, Cheap and Fast.  You can have any two:  Good and Cheap, won't be Fast; Good and Fast, won't be Cheap;  Cheap and Fast, won't be Good!

When comparing bids, it isn't the cheapest or the 'nicest' person you should select.   You should understand why there is a large price difference (it shows there are gaps in your design program or what you have asked for specifically, which means there may be arguments later).  If most of the bids are in line, and one is way high or way low,  you want to know why before dismissing or selecting them.

A price-only decision almost always costs more in the long run. 

Good luck!
?

No.  Heck no.  Here's a good example.  We very recently needed to find someone to install about 500 square feet of exotic wood flooring (we already have the materials).  We contacted about 12-15 top-rated Angieslist contractors.  Out of the few who did get back to us, we got 5 quotes, 2 of them were literally just over the phone.  They "didn't feel it would be necessary to even see the space". 

 

Here were the bids: 

$4000 (sight unseen), $2800 (sight unseen), $2500, $1500, $1450

 

We didn't "share our budget for this".  Why would we?  We asked them to bid the job.  That's it.  All of them should be well-qualified and they are all highly rated.  We were interested in how THEY value their time/resources - for an apples/apples job. 

 

Do you still think that you should tell them about your budget?  Your choice.  From my standpoint it isn't their business.  I'm asking them to bid on a project.  Invariably I'll get some very high bids, medium bids and a few more reasonable ones - ALL from "highly rated contractors". 

?
For this type of job, you need plans and specs from an Architectural/Engineering firm before thinking about contractors - and to get a building permit. Ben's method would work and done incrementally could cost well over $100,000 plus as he says, but this not really the most economic way to approach this big a job. A House Mover or Foundation Underpinning specialty company can usually slide your house onto a whole new foundation, or jack it up on steel beams and hold it there while a basement is dug underneath it, without any intermediate piers. The jacking/move cost would probably be on the order of $30-40,000, and a new basement probably about $40-50,000 - rough ballpark, though I have been involved in some 1000-1500SF single story jobs that went for under $70,000 total. I have been involved in a fair number of these type jobs - and the way the numbers come out, if there is room on the property to move the house, it is almost always nearly as cheap or cheaper to build an equivalent square footage (basement plus ground level) addition rather than add a basement under the house, and that way your new footage is half above ground so worth more on resale, plus you do not lose use of the house for a month or two. Second cheapest is usually sliding house to a new foundation, if property is large enough to do this - though house is totally cut off from utilities for a week to three. Most expensive, and usually only done in tight city environments or with full 2 story or higher houses, is adding the foundation in place, though your utility interruptions should be on the order of hours at a time rather than days or weeks. Talk to an architect - I think you will quickly lean towards the addition option rather than adding a basement - it is just too expensive to deepen foundations in most cases, plus you WILL get cracking in the house and possible water and sewer pipe problems in a move/underpinning job, which is not the case with an addition. This become more likely the case since you want to add 8 feet off the back of the home anyway - so why not just enlarge the addition and do it all that way - MUCH simpler, and MUCH less disruption of your life, and you get much higher resale return on your investment.
?

Herlonginc's answer stated that it is not the contractor's job to pay for materials and labor to do the job. I say baloney - a reputable, established contractor has the funds (or a business operations line of credit) to "carry" the job between interim or partial payments, each of which should be keyed to completion of distinct easily measured mileposts in the job, and for a homeowner I would say should be in not more than 20% increments for jobs exceeding a week or so. For shorter jobs, then an initial payment, 50% completion, and completion would be normal. His cost of carry funds is part of his cost of doing business, and is figured as part of his overhead.Bear in mind when he is buying materials and paying labor, his materials he typically pays for on a 10-30 day invoice, and his labor typically a week or two after they work, so he is not really "fronting" that much money if you are giving him weekly or biweekly interim payments, on a typical residential job.

If he does not have the funds to buy materials (excepting possibly deposit on special-order or luxury items, which still typically are 10-30 day invoiceable to him) and hire personnel then he is a fly-by-night operation, and he should not be bidding that size job. You should never (other than MAYBE an earnest deposit of not more than the LESSER of 10% or $5000) let the payments get ahead of the approved/inspected work progress - typically payment should be 10-20% BEHIND the progress, with at least 10% retained at the effective end of work until final inspections and completion of the final "punchlist".

That promotes rapid continuation of the work, discourages the all-too common nightmare of contractors taking on more work than they can handle so they leave your job for weeks or months to go work on someone else's job (frequently to start that someone else's new job so he can get the job), and does not leave you out a tremendous amount of cash if he does not finish and you have to hire another contractor to finish the job. Remember, if you have to hire a new contractor to finish the job, he will charge you a lot more than the original bid to finish someone else's unfinished mess.

This may seem cynical, but having started in the construction business about 50 years ago and seeing the shenanigans that a lot of contractors pull you cannot be too safe. You have to remember contractors are like any other people - I would say maybe 10% are outright crooks, another 25% or so will pull a fast one or overcharge if the opportunity presents itself, maybe 30% will do the work but not any better than they are forced to, about 25% are good conscientious reputable workmen, and the last 10% or so are really spectacular - conscientious, fair, and efficient craftsmen. This top 35% are the only ones you should have bidding in the first place. Therefore, only get bids from long-term reputable firms (so you shake out the marginal short-timers with less experience and also generally less ability to finish the job on budget and schedule), only those that have good RECENT references, and preferably with excellent word-of-mouth recommendation from people you know and trust. That way, you are starting right off with the cream of the crop, so hopefully whichever one bids low should be a good choice.

NEVER start with bids, then check the references of the low bidder - why even consider a vendor or contractor who you do not have faith in from the start ? Get references and short-list you possibles BEFORE you ask for bids.

Low bids - that is another matter - commonly the low bidder is NOT who you want, especially if he is significantly lower than several others, which might mean he is desperate for work, made a math error, or did not correctly figure the entire scope of work. You want a reasonable bid with someone you connect with and trust - that is worth a lot more in the success of the job than the absolute lowest bid.

 

?
You should always get a set of print and pull a permit when remodeling you home. It is a good thing that you want to be involved in your project. I do have some reservation about the electrical work. There is a lot at risk with doing the work yourself. If the house burns down you will never get the insurance money, unless your a certified electrician. Now of days 90% of home fires are blamed on electrical problems because the insurance company is to lazy and cheap to investigate the true problem. Also find out if the city you live in will allow you to perform the work. Make sure you coordinate your subs to have the proper time and space to perform their job. You don't want people working on top of each other. If you order all you materials make sure everything is there before you start your project. Have your subs check for proper and full items to be installed. Make sure every sub has a working set of prints. Make sure you have all the demo done before your subs show up to work. Schedule your plumber first, do any final framing or electrical work while you wait for inspection. Electrical inspection next followed by framing, insulation, and wallboard. All subs must get a final inspection on the job before you (the GC) can call in your final inspection.
?
The answer depends on your contract.  If you do not have a written contract, you need to begin documenting everything.  Begin by using a calendar and marking the days the contractor started, worked, you had to speak to him/her about the work, etc.

Next photograph the work you feel is sub-par.  If work has been corrected, photograph it now to have a record of its condition.  If you have any "original" or "before work began" pictures get those together, too.

If you do have written contract, see what it says about warranties, complaints, failure to finish / comply, etc.  Holding the money may end up with the contractor taking YOU to court for the funds - you cannot just hold the money.  You need to document in writing what is wrong, what you expect to happen (be specific) and when it should happen by.  A good contract will explain if and how money can be held, how the arbitration or complaint is filed, etc.

You should also invite another contractor to come in and bid the work to finish the job.  They can confirm the quality of the work and give you a price to fix / finish the job.  This gives you justification for holding the funds and an option to finish the job.

If the contractor is not willing to fix the work or listen to direction, do not allow them back in the house.  A judge will ask you why you let them continue to do work if you found it unacceptable.  Take back the key or access to the building - you can also attempt holding any materials or tools as collateral if the cost of repair is higher than the amount owed.  Again, document what you are holding, its estimated value (google or ebay search), etc.

Finally, in writing you should fire the contractor and state the exact reason(s).  Document everything; if it is done in person after they leave make notes of what was said, agreed upon and disputed.  If you are satisfied that what you have paid is fair compensation for the work done, make sure this is noted in the letter firing the contractor.  If you feel money is owed, you will need to file a small claim in your local court.  Include the documentation you made, notes, letters, etc. when you file your claim so the judge will have a copy of everything.  Don't forget to contact the BBB.

Do not wait for the court date; go ahead and hire the other contractor and have the work completed.  Bring this invoice to court with you (file it before the court date if you can).  Bring photos of the finished work (again, file it with the court before the date if possible).  You must show what good quality work looks like vs the poor quality work.

Otherwise it will be a your word against the contractor and you will most likely lose, (the contract is a promise to pay for work) or even if you "win" you will most likely split the difference between the argued amount of money.  Also be prepared for the contractor to file a small court claim against you.  Same process as above, except now you will respond to the summons with a copy of your stuff to defend your reason for holding funds instead of asking for money back.

Good luck!

Hardware Store reviews in Waynesville

A

Rating
Salesman was very helpful in getting installation set up, they were here on time and did a great job, I would use them again. It is so wonderful to have something done right the first time in todays world.
- teresa C.
D

Rating
Scheduling was a bit tough, but I finally connected with the designer. On the day of the appointment, it went well. But she never sent the written quote or followed up with me. I tried sending an email, but no response. I liked several of the items but wonder if my refusal to buy
Waynesville Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
toilets was a loosing point for me. Too bad as I wanted to spend money at that store, but looks like I'll buy elsewhere.
- MARTY B.
F

Rating
I ordered a garage door and paid in full. I was told by the person at the installation desk that although it says 2 weeks, it would probably take longer. The next step was for them to come out and measure to make sure they could do a proper installation. A few days after ordering we got a call saying that the garage door was ordered and they would be coming soon to install. After 2 weeks with no more contact, we called to find out what was taking so long. Seems they forgot to send the installer to do that first step of measuring. They said that we were now on an expedited schedule because of the delay. After three or four more days of nothing, I called back and finally got a guy to come and measure. The next week I got a call telling me that the installer needed to do some extra framing work that would cost an additional $100 (approx.) because our existing door was 7' 1" high, which is non standard. I went down and measured myself and sure enough, it was 7' 1". But I also noticed that opening that the door fit against was just shy of 7' high. In other words, the existing door stuck up an extra inch on the inside, meaning a standard 7' door should fit fine. I told them that I didn't think the extra trim work was needed. They said they would talk to the installer, who they seemed to have a lot of trouble getting ahold of. Eventually we decided that the installer needed to come and explain why the extra trim was needed. But after a few more days he never showed up. We were past a month after the initial order now. So I called them and said that I thought it was time for a refund and I would find someone else to do the door. We immediately called The Door Doctor of Southern Illinois, whom someone had recommended in the mean time, and in less than 24 hours they were out installing our new garage door for roughly the same price. And guess what? Just as I suspected, no additional framing was necessary. The Door Doctor was so quick that we had a brand new door installed before I could get over to
Waynesville Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
to process my refund. Even if
Waynesville Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
could have done what they said they could do, even if they had had someone out to measure the next day and the door installed the following day, it would have taken them twice as long. I have learned my lesson. I won't be going to
Waynesville Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
for any installation services.

- Arthur R.
F

Rating
This company is HORRIFIC to deal with especially if you're a female or elderly person. I suppose if you're male or from a lawn maintenance company you may probably get better service. I personally bought chainsaw from them which they discouraged since "they felt it was too much for me to handle." Big LOL. Then my 82 y/o mother had to have a lawn tractor picked up ($75) for flat tire. Not only did they keep the mower for almost 3 weeks, they never called to give us the estimate we clearly requested before any work being done which they charged $240 and 2 months later the tire is flat again. So I get the classic, "there must be new hole." No it's the one they'd "fixed." They said they'd charge another $75 to pick it up and "look at it." I told them I will never use them again. And I don't want my 82 y/o mother taken advantage of again. They could have put on a new tire for the price they charged her. Needless to say I'll never use this again.
- Darlene P.
A

Rating
I have an old dresser that my grandmother gave me and I needed to refinish it. The
Waynesville Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
explained that by refinishing the dresser could depreciate the value. However, it's very nice and I want to use it. So he helped me mix stain so that it would match the original piece. It turned out beautiful and looked just like the picture.
- Jeanette K.
A

Rating
It was a fabulous experience. They have an amazing data base of products that tracks previous orders, so if you need a replacement or want to compare all of that information is made available.
- Luisa M.
A

Rating
They are attentive, completely professional, and an absolute delight to deal with. They are responsive, punctual and I would recommend them.
- Luisa M.
D

Rating
I have a very large yard and needed to replace my privacy fence. After speaking with several fence installers, I chose to go with
Waynesville Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
. During the three day right of rescission period, I had the gut feeling that I should cancel, but I needed the fence and went ahead with the purchase.
Waynesville Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
, the sales person, was nice enough and gave me a fair price. He was very pushy about paying immediately for the fence. When I told him I needed to get money from an annuity, he said the price was a sale price and if I didn't pay that day, the price would go up. So I said cancel it. Then he backtracked and waited the three days until I got the money. After the wood came in, the installer called and wanted to begin work on a Wednesday.
Waynesville Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
had told me it would take three days. I have three small dogs who like to be outside and I wasn't sure they could do the job in three days, so I asked to wait until Monday. The contractor agreed. The two guys installing the fence showed up about mid day on Monday because they had to finish another job that morning. It seems they only worked about 4 or 5 hours a day. On Thursday when I got home from work, only half the fence was up. I called
Waynesville Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
and said I needed the fence completed by Friday. They sent another person or two, so the fence was finished Friday. It looked fine to me as I walked around the back yard to check it out. Then I realized there were no latches on the inside plus there was no anchor to hold the double door in place. I called on Monday and they changed the latches to the inside. When my yard guy came to mow, he could not get in the back yard from the front yard, so he was unable to mow. I called again. The installer came back a couple days later and installed a latch that works from both sides on the walk through door only. The double door is still not fixed almost a month later.
On the second day the installers were there, one of them called and asked if they could park their trailer used to haul away the old fence in my driveway. I said I could park on the street for a couple of days. Well, the trailer was in my driveway, blocking my garage doors for a full week, several days after they "finished" the job. There was also a large amount of left over materials. Those sat in my driveway for two weeks. Plus I was never issued a refund for the overestimated material. To my estimation (on the low side of items sold on
Waynesville Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
.com), that was about $500.00 of extra material.
I also explained to the sales person, the installer contractor, the guys installing and the customer service manager and worker that the point of the new fence was to keep my 7 1/2 pound min pin in the yard. She has gotten out under the fence at least ten times in the last month. I have blocked the low spots with bricks but that defeats the whole purpose of replacing the old fence.
The fence is pretty but I am thoroughly disappointed in
Waynesville Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
. I even spoke with the service manager three times, but I still cannot access my back yard through both doors. She totally disregarded my concern over my dog. I am really sad that I spent all this money and I still have an inferior fence.
- Cheri C.

Hardware Stores in Waynesville, NC

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Barefoot Brothers Service Company

P.O. Box 18811
Asheville

Brickhouse Security

980 Avenue of the Americas

BY-PASS POWER EQUIPMENT INC

1318 SULPHUR SPRINGS RD
Waynesville

CAROLINA READY MIX

608 OLD US HIGHWAY 70
Swannanoa

CLINE BRADLEY ACE HARDWARE

1570 S MAIN ST
Waynesville

Cole's Home Improvements Inc.

146 Creasman Rd.
Mills River

FA Management Enterprises Inc

1000 Brevard Rd
Asheville

FOWLER LUMBER CO

211 LIBERTY CHURCH RD
Waynesville

G & M Construction

P.O. Box 6561
Hendersonville

HAYWOOD ACE HARDWARE CO

1391 DELLWOOD RD
Waynesville

HAYWOOD BUILDERS SUPPLY CO

100 CHARLES ST
Waynesville

HOME SPECIALTY BUILDING MTRLS

79 BRANNER AVE
Waynesville

HOME TECH

5 N MAIN ST
Waynesville

Homer TLC Inc - Hendersonville

401 Linda Vista Dr
Hendersonville

HomeSource Design Center

172 Charlotte Street
Asheville

LOWE'S

89 S TUNNEL RD
Asheville

LOWE'S

100 LINER COVE RD
Waynesville

Mountain Brook Homes Inc

31 College Pl
Asheville

RepairClinic.com Inc

48600 Michigan Ave

S G Mechanical Repair Service

1031 Spartanburg Hwy
Hendersonville

SORRELL'S HARDWARE & FARM SUPL

3796 JONATHAN CREEK RD
Waynesville

SORRELL'S MERCHANDISE CO INC

3796 JONATHAN CREEK RD
Waynesville

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

Stoneworld of NC LLC

83 Jaybird Ln
Waynesville

Tri-State Flooring and Supply

806 Locust St
Hendersonville

VALLEY HARDWARE

557 Tumbling Fork Rd
Waynesville

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