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Local Articles in North Wilkesboro
Long-term exposure to certain types of toxic molds can be catastrophic. One highly rated provider shares four easy tips to prevent mold from invading your home.
Mold may be present in your home and affecting your life even if no actual mold is visible. Here are four things that may indicate you need mold remediation.
Do you have mold in your air ducts? Learn how to identify mold and remediate it, along with what you should expect to pay. Angie Hicks provides the answers.
Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?
Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?
Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:
- Install a vapor barrier across the floor. Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.
- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.
- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.
When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.
You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.
You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.
Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.
Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.
I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.
Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).
The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.
Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.
The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.
Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.
Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.
Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.
While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?
If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -
Call in the professionals.
There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.
High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls. Any mold you remove will just keep coming back. The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed. If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function. For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.
I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning. They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working. If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area. It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system. A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well. Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.
Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.
Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls. This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out. This is a last ditch idea. The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile). Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill. Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.
A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.
Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold. In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures). Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.
Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work. The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly). Good luck.
Mold Removal reviews in North Wilkesboro
The crew of Nick,
I am very pleased with the work that was done and very happy with the results. I used to hate my crawlspace - it was a nasty, damp, bug-infested part of my house that I didn't want to go into. Now I love it. I can go in there to inspect my plumbing, HVAC, dryer vent, etc, and it is clean, dry, and pleasant. I know it is better for my house and it is healthier for me and my family.
Everyone that I spoke to at Indoor Restore (IR) was professional and knowledgeable.
I called IR because I knew that there was mold in the front room of my house. IR tested for mold and found that I was correct. IR told me I would get asthma unless it was fixed. IR could not identify (and was not interested in finding) the source of the mold. I was charged $200 to tell me that there was mold somewhere in my house. Because there was no visible mold, I was also told that I could have IR out again to test inside the walls. To test inside the wall would cost an additional $75 per hole. I believe that the $200 charge is just to get you in the door, and set you up for the rest of the process, ultimately ending in paying them a hefty amount for their construction contracting services. (Coincidentally, I called on a week when they were having a $100 off sale for the testing.)
The work that IR proposed doing was basically evacuating the air in the rooms, cleaning the walls, ceiling and carpet. The one fix that IR wanted to do was completely replace the bathroom ceiling. We know where that mold comes from, the shower. No testing was done in the ceiling to see if mold had penetrated the paint. The bathroom is about 50 feet from the room that I called about. The shower is not causing the mold in the front room. The total estimate was about $3000.
On the phone, I mentioned that the grading in the front yard could possibly be contributing to the mold problem. IR told me that they do not consider anything outside the house.
The proposed treatment was only to treat the symptoms of the mold. The source of the mold was still unknown. I could not understand how IR could guarantee their work for 10 years without actually finding the source of the mold. This is how IR deals with the guarantee:
1) We accept the proposal for work.
2) When IR comes out, they retest every part of the house (all rooms, attic, crawl space, garage, etc.). (I asked if we could get the entire house tested before they came out so we would know what to expect. The answer: ~$500 and that would not include identifying the source of the mold.)
3) If IR finds any other part of the house that IR
So, I was told that it would cost $3,000 to treat the symptoms of the mold, but this would not come with a guarantee. In order to get the guarantee, IR would require me to contract with them for an unknown amount of construction. If down the road we needed to bring them back under the guarantee, I'm sure that the same process would start over.
I wanted IR to find the source of the mold, and fix it. That's not what happened. IR should be ashamed of their policies.
Since the air sample test was performed, the source of the problem was found. The carpet was pulled back and some of the dry wall was removed. Some weeds had gotten in behind the siding. We recently had the siding replaced. The old siding may have been part of the problem also. If we had had the work done that was proposed by IR, the problem would have remained.
Update #1, Reply to Provider Response:
I understand that mold is a living organism and that the source is hard to find. That is why I called you. I knew that mold was in the house. It is obvious now that the inspection did not give you enough information to recommend remediation. The cost estimate was for remediation based on air samples. The extent of the project should be known (as much as possible) before the remediation contract is signed, and the guarantee should never be in jeopardy. You
you demand it or the work is not guaranteed.
In all construction projects, estimates can change. This case is different because you didn’t make an effort to determine what needed to be done. By the time you do the actual tests, the contract is signed. That’s too late.
Here is my recommendation to you: Do enough testing to determine what the extent of the problem is. If you need to do more testing, tell the homeowner. Once you have determined (to the best of your ability) what the solution is, send an estimate for the
remediation. Do not hold the guarantee over the homeowner’s head.
I would be very surprised if the EPA and the CDC agreed with your remediation recommendation to clean the room and not determine the source of the problem. ”
As far as the mold remediation is concerned, they set a date and stuck to it. They estimated that it would take three days to complete the job, and they were done in a little less than that. They got rid of the known mold, but they also found mold we were not aware of and got rid of that as well. Moreover, they took photographs of everything to document what was seen and what was done. I thought they were good until we discovered later that they did not do a complete job of getting rid of all of the mold.
Moreover, we based a decision which cost us thousands of dollars on Mr.
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