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A
"After several years of brutal winters and the wife complaining of a cold drafty house I decided to have a home energy audit done. I had a friend refer me to
" from
and after reading good reviews on Angie's list I decided to give him a call.
was prompt at returning my call and setting up an appointment for an energy audit. After I explained the drafty issues we were having he set up the blower door test along with infrared camera and we went room by room identifying the sources of the drafts in each room. He was extremely helpful explaining that a lot of the draft issues I could fix myself with a quick run to the home improvement store. With the infrared camera we could see all the cold air flow in the attic space and along a majority of the rim joists.
was very honest with me explaining what he could help with and what he couldn't due to lack of access to the area. He spent an extra hour talking furnaces and windows with me as we are looking to upgrade both. He explained all the energy saving rebates available as well as financing that is available through the home energy improvement programs. I plan on using
for insulating my house and having him be my general contractor for my window and HVAC upgrades which I'm currently in the process of getting quotes based on the contractors he recommended.

-Ryan T.

A
"Great personalized, custom service from the owner. They showed up on time and he gave us great energy saving tips and the install of 10 windows weatherseal was" quickly and expertly done in no time. Great work. Great customer service. We will call you again for attic insulation makeover, guys!

-Michael L.

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Local Articles in Mount Airy

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Avoid ice dams with proper attic insulation

Do you have icicles forming on your eaves and gutters and ice collecting on your roof? An ice dam can cause serious problems without proper insulation.

Even in cold-weather climates, homes often lack insulation between the finished, occupied portion of the home and the ground. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Paul B. of Bluffton, South Carolina)
Insulation, Energy Efficiency Auditing

Exterior foundation insulation is an often overlooked home improvement. It can help stop drafts, lower energy bills and keep your house warmer during winter.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

With insulation technology always advancing, you’ve got choices to make when it comes to the material you pick, says Lindus. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Lynn M. of Columbus, Georgia)
Insulation

Thinking of installing your own insulation? One highly rated provider shares six things that every homeowner should be aware of before attempting to DIY.

Before winter arrives, ensure your attic is sealed properly and has both adequate insulation and ventilation. (Photo courtesy of member Kitty Jones of Columbus, Ohio)
Insulation, Heating & A/C, Roofing

A comfortable, energy efficient home starts at the top. Those hot spots and cold rooms may relate to problems in your attic. Beyond adding insulation, what's a homeowner to do?

Angie's Answers

?

Google and read about it. Some people swear by it, though their comments sound suspiciously like they were all written by the same person. Some call it a rip off - expecially people paying $6000-8000 for what would normally be a $1,000 range job.

I would not call it an outright fraud as they are providing a product that has some potential merit in the right application, but from a technical standpoint it sounds suspicious. They claim a 1/4 mat with doiuble sided foil facing is R-16 insulation. This at least is deceptive - they appear to be saying its radiant heat reflective properties give the equivalent of R-16 insulation, because there is NO WAY 1/4" foam is going to yield R-16 in an ASTM test for insulation, which is a thermal conductivity test. Would be lucky to get R-2 or so as an insulator, so this is basically a radiant barrier. Competing products from national brandname manufacturers list R value of 3.8-4.2 for one inch mats, so the equivalent for this 1/4" mat would be expected to be in the R1 range.

Properly installed, with ventilation on BOTH sides, it can be slightly effective in reducing radiant heat loss from the house, and more effective in reflecting heat in the attic from coming down into the house. However, from a thermodynamic and vapor control standpoint, they are trouble unless their integration into the house envelope is designed VERY carefully. Short explanation:

1) for keeping heat in the house, if they are installed above the attic floor insulation they can slightly limit air loss through the ceiling, and reflect radiant heat back down, resulting in warmer insulation, hence a warmer ceiling - but not as marked an improvement as added insulation would give.

2) for keeping attic heat from getting into the ceiling, they do reflect back a good portion of the radiant heat coming from the roof sheathing. This reduces the attic floor insulation surface temperature, so can reduce air conditioning cost. it does increase teh temperature in the attic, which can be very bad for support timbers and the roof sheathing.

3) the worst thing about how this type of foil radiant barrier is used is that, unless it has free air space on both sides, it acts as a vapor barrier. In the typicall application as a blanket over attic floor insulation, it traps any moisture coming up from the house, and can cause mildew and rot, especially in climates where the outdoor temperature gets quite cold.

4) the attic fans are generally a last resort measure - the normal house does much better, at no energy cost, using ridge vents with adequate eave openings to provide ventilation and cooling in the attic.

5) their effectiveness in winter heat diminshes rapidly with time - tests of attic radiant barriers show they lose about half their effectvieness within 5 years, because even a light dust coating greatly reduces their ability to reflect radiant heat, and greatly increases the absorption of heat from the hot air above them.

6) pay attention to cost - from what I see, their installed cost is many times the cost of normal insualtion or radiant barrier placement.

I would say, in summary, buyer beware, and I would be inherently leery of a product being sold the same way timeshares and "secret" moneymaking schemes are.

?

Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

?

A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.

?
Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
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Insulation reviews in Mount Airy

A

Rating
The owner of the company visited to estimate the job on 2/25/2015. After going to the places where cold air was getting into the house (he showed me as we went ), he reviewed what is necessary in our area of Ohio item by item. The three areas in our home which required insulation were the attic, the ceiling on the first floor, and the crawlspace (no basement). He showed me the materials needed and why they were effective. We agreed on a price for the job, and he sent a crew the next day to do the work, since things are a bit slower in this cold snap. Three men showed up. The leader went over the work order as I showed him where to access the spaces. The work order was a copy of the agreement I signed the day before, and they went to work. They blew cellulose into the attic after prepping leaks. They blew cellulose into the space over the first floor after prepping the leaks. In the crawlspace, no blow in was used. A combination of injected foam and hand cut Insulation was inserted in the nooks and crannies. It took, by my estimate, about five hours of solid work to complete the job. I inspected the work, paid the piper, and we were done. We have already noticed benefits, as there are much shorter periods when the heat pump is on, especially during the day .


- James T.
A

Rating
I had 4 estimates and this was the least expensive by a bit. I do not always go with the lowest price. It is just as important to me that the person I am dealing with seems knowledgeable, does not do a hard sell and does not condescend to female me.
Updating from a 67 year old house at maybe R10 to R38. Took at most an hour and a half for my small house, no mess. The area covered was approx 750 sq ft. Part of the attic is floored so they added a
Mount Airy Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
around the edges to insure the insulation did not get into the storage area. Baffled between the
Mount Airy Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
. He also vented my bathroom fan through the roof which had been on my TTD list for two years and did not charge extra.
Mount Airy Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was personable, professional and explained in detail what they would be doing.
I am having my kitchen redone and will hire them to provide insulation behind the new cabinets.
I am very, very pleased with this company.

- Patty M.
A

Rating
Workers were great, kept me appraised of everything they were going to do. Took pictures of all areas that I could no see in person and plan to send me copies to keep.
- Patrick T.
A

Rating
Wow!
Wow!
Wow!
Amazing follow-up, competence and ultra friendly. Major kudos to the office manager (
Mount Airy Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
) who just stunned me with her professional approach.
Very rare for a business such as this to excel in customer service.
- Jonathon N.
A

Rating
They were on time and ready to get to work.
Mount Airy Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and his crew were friendly, courteous and anxious to answer any and all questions. They did an excellent job, and cleaned up after themselves as well as can be expected this time of year. The house feels more comfortable already.
Mount Airy Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
returned yesterday to do the followup blower door test. While the blower was running, he went around the house with his thermal camera and caulked or insulated any air leaks he found around doors, windows, pipes, etc. He said the test showed air infiltration had been reduced by an incredible 46%. Thanks to all.
- Lawrence T.
A

Rating
The service went fine. One technician came out for the job. The sealer they had did not work with the sealer that was already on the door. They ended up caulking around some windows to help with the draft. He was very helpful and informative. I had no problem scheduling the deal and they showed up as scheduling.
- Stephanie F.
N

Rating
My wife and I just had our 2nd child and I have been putting off insulating the tight crawl space in my 80 year old house. Not wanting our new baby to be cold and feel the drafty floors in our house this winter, I decided to call on Sprayfoam companies. After the first 3 companies seemed over priced and not very detailed on how they would perform the work, I was referred to
Mount Airy Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
Sprayfoam from a friend of mine....so I gave them a call and connected with
Mount Airy Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
, the owner.
Mount Airy Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and his team listened to what I was trying to accomplish and he elaborated step by step on how he and his team would help our family stay warm this winter by insulating my crawlspace.
Mount Airy Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was very professional, understanding and willing to work within my schedule. He and his team were very busy as well. but he understood my concerns with having a 2 month old in an old and drafty house without insulation in my crawlspace. So,
Mount Airy Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and his team were willing to work on a Sunday to squeeze me into his tight schedule.
The total process took about 3 hours and I could not be happier with how well the spray foam is keeping my floors warm and drafts out of my house. My wife, 2 month old.....well now 4 month old and I could not me happier with
Mount Airy Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
Sparyfoam Insulation.
- Brad D.
A

Rating
initially, we were worried because first crew that came out didn't seem confident that the job could be done. We spoke with manager / owner? and he sent another crew out as soon as possible and they explained that the first crew was concerned about the high pitch of our attic. They brought the right equipment and did a great job. I had our energy company come out for an audit and he said our attic was one of the best he'd seen as far as energy conservation! So, overall, job well-done.
- heidi K.

All Insulation Contractors in Mount Airy, NC

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

3G construction

Burlington

4 Seasons Insulation LLC

PO Box 39044
Greensboro

Advance Landscaping LLC

5811 Bowie Rd
Whitsett

Affordable Drywall LLC

7160 Pine Hall Rd
Walnut Cove

Affordable Home Repairs

8401 Spicer Ln.
Stokesdale

Affordable Plumbing Heating & Air Inc

3704 Madison Ave
Greensboro

Air Accuracy, Inc.

4915 Piedmont Pkwy.
Jamestown

Alamance Insulation LLC

PO Box 97
Altamahaw

Alamance Insulation, LLC

3322 Woodlea Drive, #500
Greensboro

Alpha Omega Companies Inc

713 floyd street
Burlington

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

American Insulation Solutions

297 Bay Avenue NW
Concord

American Renovation Systems,LLC

208 Bell Dr
Thomasville

AR Home Improvements, LLC

216 Athens Drive
Winston Salem

ARRINGTON TECHNOLOGIES INC

4165 OLD HOLLOW RD
Kernersville

B E VAUGHAN & SON INC

608 OLD THOMASVILLE RD
High Point

Baker Roofing Co

7922 Industrial Village Rd
Greensboro

Baker Roofing Co

517 Mercury St
Raleigh

Before 'N' After Construction and Wholesale

1604 South Andy Griffith Parkway
Mount Airy

Bowman's Painting & Repair

260 Beasley Rd
Mount Airy

BOWMANS PAINTING

260 Beasley Rd
Mount Airy

Branchelin Inc

412 Townley St
Winston Salem

Brown Pest Control

4678 Patterson Ave
Winston Salem

C2 Contractors, LLC

405 Banner Avenue
Greensboro

CallClifton

112village main trl
Mount Airy

Carolina Ductmasters

4327 Reidsville Road
Winston Salem

Carolina Ductmasters

21 Business Park Circle
Arden

Cary Reconstruction Co LLC

2410 Reliance Ave
Apex

Charles McLamb Professional Carpentry

451 Leonard-Berrier Rd.
Lexington

CHEMTECH ROOF & INSULATION INC

339 COUNTRY CLUB RD
Mount Airy

Construction Innovations

1805 glenoaks st

Contractors Resource Of Greensboro inc

4607 Sedgelane Dr
Greensboro

Critter Control of the Triad

1024 Mebane Oaks Rd.
Mebane

Custom Electric of NC Inc

PO Box 533
Summerfield

DCNC Home Restoration

120 Kae Lane
Mocksville

Devine gutter systems

2808 bardwell rd

DON G SNOW INSULATION CO

864 OLD US HWY 601
Mount Airy

Doss Restoration & Carpet Cleaning

201 Lexington Dr
High Point

Dr Energy Saver by Alert Construction

1206 E Wendover Ave
Greensboro

Dutch Barn Dan Inc.

5620 Cates Dr
Greensboro

Energy Efficient insulation Co

7410 Styers Ferry Rd
Clemmons

Evans Air Services, INC

618 Guilford College Rd
Greensboro

Exterior Touch Inc.

12610 Waverly RD.

Falcone Crawl Space & Structural Repair

1883 Scott Futrell Dr
Charlotte

Findlay Roofing Inc

4181 JVL Industrial Park Dr

Gallery Builders Inc.

4425 S. Main St.
Winston Salem

Go-Forth Pest & Lawn

805 S Elm St
High Point

Green Planet Energy Solutions

9101 Southern Pine Blvd Ste 320
Charlotte

Green Planet Energy Solutions

9101 Southern Pine Blvd Ste 320
Charlotte

Haley Hahn Home Solutions

3903 Oak Ridge Rd
Summerfield

Handyman Matters Of The Triad

PO Box 14772
Greensboro

Handyman Services

5090 Cobblestone Rd
Winston Salem

Hawkins Construction Company

206 Johnson Ave
Mount Airy

Home Pro Pest Solutions

7349 W. Friendly Ave. Ste.H
Greensboro

Improvement Pros LLC

3130 Boychuk Ave

INNOVATIVE DESIGN

5412 FIELDBROOK DR
Greensboro

Insulating Inc / Foam Works Insulators

5902 Fayetteville Rd
Raleigh

Ironwood Property Solutions Inc

203 Perry Road
Jamestown

J Caldwell LLC

2001 Albatross St

JJ Improvements and Tree Services

109 Short St
Lexington

Lanier Construction Group

4915 Piedmont Parkway
Jamestown

Leap Realty

5108 River Chase Rdg
Winston Salem

Leonard Power Vac & Home Improvement

5950 Skylark Road
Pfafftown

Leslie's Roofing LLC

6220 Falcon Ln

Logan Heating and Air Conditioning

5142 North Causeway Drive
Winston Salem

Luke Construction

123 woodrow avenue
Winston Salem

McNeely Pest Control

3831 Reynolda Rd
Winston Salem

MITCHELL HEATING AND AC INC

306 ORVILLE WRIGHT DR
Greensboro

Molescapes

PO Box 17128
Raleigh

NC Benchmark

Kernersville

NC Solar Now

3401-101 Atlantic Avenue
Raleigh

New Image Renovation Co

800 Julian St
Greensboro

Nothing But Detail Inc.

941 Kerns Ave
Winston Salem

PAUL DAVIS RESTORATION

1305 S PARK DR
Kernersville

Pest-X Exterminating

725 E Mountain Street
Kernersville

Piedmont Wildlife Services

4960 Lochraven Dr
Winston Salem

Pro Roofing Group, Inc.

508 English Ct
Trinity

Rapid Recovery

4219 A. Edith Lane
Greensboro

RBM SERVICES

P.O. Box 485
Pleasant Garden

Real American Services

4340 river birch loop
Greensboro

Renn Building Prods

2909 Manufacturers Rd
Greensboro

Roof Roof

2828 Queen City Dr.
Charlotte

Sealing Agents Waterproofing

PO Box 2370
Indian Trail

SesCon Inc.

2001 Janell Dr
Greensboro

Sharp Interiors Inc

126 Griffith Plaza Dr
Winston Salem

Sheetrock Doctor

24 Bruce Road

Simplified Building Solutions, LLC.

157 Polaris Dr.
Mocksville

Sitch Enterprises

1109 Mitchell St.
Mount Airy

Southern Energy Management

101 Kitty Hawk Dr
Morrisville

Sowers Services

201 crosscreek rd
Lexington

Spaugh Construction & Remodeling

450 Lewisville Vienna Rd
Lewisville

Tar Heel Basement Systems

2910 Griffith Rd
Winston Salem

Tedder Construction

2024 Pine Bluff St.
Greensboro

Terminix - Greensboro

2200 16th St
Greensboro

Terry-Lynn LLC

1596 Jennings Road
Statesville

THOMAS TRADES LLC

6714 Low Bush Ct
Wilmington

Triad Closets and More LLC

6526 Overland Park Dr
Greensboro

Triad Custom Homes

204 Prospectors Way
Lexington

U Save Termite And Pest Control

6422 NC Highway 61 N
Gibsonville

Waldorfs Home Improvements

4617 Byers Ridge Dr.
Greensboro

WALKER CONSTRUCTION SVC INC

320 S ELM ST
Greensboro

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Whitman Construction LLC

PO Box 39536
Greensboro

Yes Dear

9307 smoke Hollow rd
Kernersville

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