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A
"He was responsible, respectful and professional. He was able to almost accomplish everything we had hoped that he would be able to do in the day, and will follow" up generously with us for the final small things.

-Miriam B.

A
"The staff was very prompt in returning the calls and scheduled the service within 24-48 hours. Arrived to perform the inspection in time and also arranged a rapid" repair on the spot. The needed re-wiring of sub-panel was completed the same afternoon once the diagnose was done. It is amazing how fast they could get to the spot and resolve issues. Their response after the service was prompt too. Will recommend to others.

-kelly L.

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Local Articles in Hendersonville

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Angie's Answers

?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?
Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

?

The amperage is the rated power it can handle. Modern houses are generally built with 200 amp panels, and a lot of the newer ones are going 300-350 amps as more and more electronic devices and fancy and high-demand kitchen devices and increased lighting are used in homes.

Both are just as safe - the 200 amp one will just have many more breaker slots, allowing way more circuits, and providing more room for expansion in the future, especially for power-hungry things like shop tools. Each uses only as much electricity as is used in the circuits - the panel itself does not consume any electricity, so no long-term impact there. It is just a circuit connection box where the individual circuits are connected, with circuit protectors (breakers) in line before it connects to the main line to your electric usage meter.

Unless you are real tight on money on this job, I would upgrade to 200 amps capacity - the incremental cost is about $100-200 or so over the 100 amp panel. If your incoming power line cannot handle 200 amps, you could install a 100 amp main breaker to keep the power company happy but put in the 200 amp breaker panel, so in the future a main line upgrade could be done with only a main disconnect breaker upgrade of $100 or so, without having to change anything inside the house.

Having the larger panel, especially if 200 amp capacity all the way from the meter, can be a selling point (or rather, lack of a negative point) to a potential buyer with lots of electronics or who is into shop power tools. It would also facilitate conversion to electric heat / water heating if someone wanted to do that.

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

?

An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

Electrician reviews in Hendersonville

A

Rating
The work was excellent. and his assistant were on time and professional. The responsiveness to our request for the work required was fantastic. Appointment options were provided to get the work done. made sure that the original work would be done promptly, the next day, by stopping at our house in ...More the afternoon on his way home from work. Had the job done withing an hour. Fantastic!!!
- Michael M.
A

Rating
The original electrician assigned could not come at scheduled time due to a family emergency, but the company called to let us know the situation and offered to send another electrician working in our area at a later time in the same day. We were agreeable.
Electrician arrived at scheduled time, but didn't have a dimmer switch, because he ...More wasn't the original assigned electrician and didn't know what parts were needed. He offered to go their electrical supplier (if they were open, which they were - barely) and obtain the necessary dimmer switch.
Switch was replaced without any issues. He also looked at the bathroom exhaust fan, and said that the heater was actually not working, and there wasn't anything more he could do unless / until I purchased a new fan.
My "price" concern is with the charge for troubleshooting, which is in the neighborhood of $300, even though it seemed to require only about 15 minutes! They seem to have set amounts they charge for certain services, which can be a value, or not, to the homeowner. I ended up paying for the $88 value package (which presumably gave me $200+ value in work) plus another $21 for the service. Considering this included the switch, and he was maybe at my house for a total of an hour, that is probably typical...not any great value.
He also spent a fair amount of time describing other services I could purchase, but there was no high pressure or anything.
All in all, they were reliable, trustworthy and they stand behind their work, just need to get a good understanding of the charges to expect for the work you are having them perform.
- VICTORIA V.
A

Rating
Work was of high quality and was completed promptly without any surprises. Crew worked very closely with the cabinet installer planning ahead each day. They were very attentive and cleaned up the work place each day, no mess was left behind. Everything was explained in detail and our questions/concerns were answered patiently as the project progressed. ...More Price seemed fair and very competitive with other estimates I got for this job. Overall, we were very pleased with the final product and would love to use them again for future projects.
- Nicolae B.
A

Rating
sent out 2 workers to check out why we were experiencing an electrical when in our shower. It was diagnosed that we needed a grounding wire attached to our water line.
- Bob B.
A

Rating
was able to track down the root cause of 4 light switches that were
not working. It was an unusual cause linked to a switch that was
working. It took a lot of checking the electrical system. House wired in
a strange way when built. But, he solved the problem! was quick
to respond ...More and fit us in his schedule. This is the second time we have retained for our needs. Will use him again.
- Barbara F.
A

Rating
Great work - clean, professional, and prompt. They gave an estimate on the phone and it was less expensive than anticipated.
- Dan P.
A

Rating
Upon requesting service, Nick was very quick to respond to my questions and walked me through the pricing for the service. His technicians arrived on time, were willing to explain their work, etc. I did have a wall switch that went to an unknown location, and after some investigating the technician admitted that re-wiring the switch to the light would ...More require a smaller/more nimble technician to navigate the very tight attic space. Overall, however, the rest of the work was completed in a timely manner and to the quality promised. I would call them again for sure.

- Tim S.
A

Rating
was extremely professional and did a great job. It wasn't going to be easy but he worked quickly and efficiently to get it done. We would definitely use him again!
- Kelly D.

Electricians in Hendersonville, NC

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1st Choice Service Group

502 Stone Ridge Blvd
Asheville

A Green Electric

1160 high peak rd

A+ HOME IMPROVEMENTS

11 SCOTTSDALE DR
Asheville

A+ Repair & Improve

127 Acton Cir
Candler

A-Team Energy

131 Garren Creek Rd
Fairview

Abc Office Systems

PO Box 456
Mountain Home

Accurate Electrical Services

1279 South Main St
Asheville

Advanced Electric of WNC LLC

215 East Oakview Rd
Asheville

Affordable Quality Electrical Service

444 Pridmore Hollow Rd
Hendersonville

AirVent Exteriors Inc

1852 Brevard Rd
Arden

Al's Remodeling

1010 Indian Hill
Hendersonville

ALAN BENTLEY ELECTRIC

54 SHINING SUN LN
Hendersonville

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave SE

All German Performance

1194 Hendersonville Rd
Asheville

ALL PROS WEST

11 CRYSTAL COUNTRY WAY
Asheville

Allens Electric

417 Salisbury Rd
Hendersonville

Alliance Electrical Services

P.O. Box 1351
Hendersonville

ALP Systems Inc

144 Industrial Park Dr
Waynesville

Ambassador Properties, Inc.

1104 Red Oak Dr
Hendersonville

Anders Home Repair

1514 5th Ave W
Hendersonville

ARIES ELECTRIC & DATACOM

64 DALYA RD
Swannanoa

Asheville Garage Door Service Inc

277 Lynn Cove Rd
Asheville

Asheville Window & Door Inc

15 Walden Dr
Arden

At His Beck And Call Electric

209 Dundeve Cir
Hendersonville

AVL Electric

85 Ramsey Rd
Marshall

B F STEPP ELECTRIC CO

WICKINS AVE
Mountain Home

Bee Ridge Electric

9 Breckenridge Dr
Fairview

Belue's Electric

840 Roper Rd
Flat Rock

BENJAMIN BUILT LLC

3 Metcalf Dr
Weaverville

Bill Okler Electric Inc

1051 Middle Fork Rd
Hendersonville

BLACK DOG ELECTRIC CO INC

29 WISTERIA LN
Hendersonville

Blevins Construction, Inc

319 Roaring Spout Ln
Burnsville

Blue Ridge Construction

PO Box 2565
Candler

BOBBY HILL ELECTRIC

60 Cabinwood Drive
Hendersonville

BRASWELL ELECTRIC

PO BOX 6548
Hendersonville

BRINSON ELECTRIC

26 SECRETARIAT DR
Hendersonville

Brumley's Home Repair

97 Oakwood Dr
Brevard

Buchanan Construction LLC

44 Buck Shoals Rd
Arden

Buckingham Electric, Inc. / Heating and Cooling

503 Sweeten Creek Industrial Park Rd.
Asheville

Built More Construction

301 S Oconeechee Ave
Black Mountain

Buyers Edge LLC

PO Box 2172
Hendersonville

C. H. Ervin Electric

1382 Jupiter Road
Weaverville

Canter Power Systems, LLC

2100 Fairfax Rd
Greensboro

Carolina Ductmasters

21 Business Park Circle
Arden

Carolina Electrical Technologies

10 Roselyn Way
Black Mountain

CAROLINA ENERGY SYSTEMS

125 LESTER LN
Penrose

Case Plumbing

218 E Blackwell Dr
Hendersonville

Chad McDonald

Hendersonville

CHAVIN ELECTRIC & CO

141 CANTRELL LOOP RD
Hendersonville

CHM Electric LLC

Horse Shoe

Classic Builders of Hendersonville

2535 King Rd
Pisgah Forest

Coleman Electric

P.O. Box 461
Dana

Complete Energy Systems of WNC, LLC

61 Redden Road
Hendersonville

CTM Construction

105 Moss Dr
Burnsville

D ALLEN ELECTRIC CO

284 LAKEWOOD CIR
Hendersonville

D C SHOOK ELECTRIC

211 MOCKINGBIRD DR
Hendersonville

D R WALTERS ELECTRIC INC

230 WOODLYN ETCH DR
Hendersonville

D.R. Braswell Electric

Hendersonville

Dampier & Stephens LLC

224 Thompson St
Hendersonville

DAVID COOPER ELECTRIC

105 STONE DR
Swannanoa

Dominion Home Improvements

406 Jack St
Hendersonville

Dreamakers LLC

347 Scarlet Oaks Dr
Etowah

Dynamic Development Inc

PO Box 43
Skyland

Electrical Swatt

7 Brookfield Dr
Candler

EnergySmith Home Performance

135 Sweeten Creek Rd
Asheville

ETOWAN ELECTRIC

103 ARTHUR LN
Hendersonville

Evans Residential Electrical & Construction

168 Hungry River Rd
Flat Rock

EVERGLOW ELECTRICAL & APPL RPR

1202 DAVIS MOUNTAIN RD
Hendersonville

Everybody Needs Raymond Const. Comp., LLC

102 College Station Dr.
Brevard

Eye On Your Home

168 Scarlett dr Fletcher
Fletcher

Fate's Towing Service, LLC

1515 N Main St
Hendersonville

Fence Scapes

206 Martin Rd
Swannanoa

Fernando the Handyman

9 Eve Dr.
Asheville

FOUNDATION ELECTRIC

1043 BEREA CHURCH RD
Hendersonville

Fountain Electric Services

244 Callahan-Koon Road
Spindale

FOWLER & ASSOCIATES HOME BUILDERS INC

18 Spring Hill Drive
Arden

Full Circle Construction Inc

PO Box 2619
Hendersonville

G & M Construction

P.O. Box 6561
Hendersonville

General Electrical Contracting

PO Box 348
Asheville

Gib Gibson The Handyman Who Guarantees

385 Burnside Trl
Hendersonville

GLEN CLARK ELECTRIC & PLBG

115 E GLENWOOD LN
Hendersonville

GreenWay Electric

432 Simms Fork Road
Burnsville

HAL GORDON ELECTRICAL SVC

4806 ASHEVILLE HWY
Hendersonville

Handi-Man Services

141 Dry Creek Ridge
Hendersonville

Handyman Matters of Western North Carolina

4900 Jeter Mountain Rd
Hendersonville

Harrington Electric Inc

8 Laurel Rd
Arden

HENDERSON'S EVEREADY ELECTRIC

2728 STEPP MILL RD
Hendersonville

Hendersonville Custom Painting & Remodeling

211 Windsor Ct..
Hendersonville

Henson Electric

408 sunny dr

Hire a Husband Handyman Services

130 Avondale Rd
Asheville

HomeSource Builders

172 Charlotte Street
Asheville

HomeSource Design Center

172 Charlotte Street
Asheville

HONEY DEW IT

540 N FORK RD
Barnardsville

HoneyDid Handyman

115 Sleepy Hollow Ln
Canton

Horizon Heating & Air Conditioning Inc

1581 N Allen Rd
Hendersonville

Houses 2 Homes LLC

PO 2644
Hendersonville

HUGH GILLIAM ELECTRICAL

3467 BAT CAVE RD
Old Fort

Isom Electric

3300 N. Main Street., Ste D, PMB 325

J 4 ELECTRIC

26 LAUREL WOODS RD
Hendersonville

J&J Construction and Landscaping

8 Crestland Rd
Asheville

Jackson Electrical Contractors, Inc.

57 Hunter's Ridge Rd.
Mills River

Jesse Klennon

220 Mansfield Street
Hendersonville

JIM FRITTS ELECTRICAL

1015 OLD SPARTANBURG RD
Hendersonville

JLS Electrical Contractors

420 Lake Falls Rd
Hendersonville

JLS Electrical Contractors

408 Old Distillery Rd
Hendersonville

Kaya Homebuilders LLC

103 Deaver St
Asheville

Ken Swensen

104 Sunset Hills Ct
Asheville

Kilowatt Electric LLC

PO Box 18930
Asheville

Larry Allman Electric Inc

5931 Howard Gap Rd
Flat Rock

LEE LYDA ELECTRIC INC

950 Old Fairview Rd
Asheville

LINDSEY ELECTRIC

64 BYNUMS PL
Hendersonville

LYDA ELECTRIC CO

201 DIXON DR
Hendersonville

Mad Rabbit Renovations

15 Alton Way
Hendersonville

Marger's Quality Services LLC

16 Charter Glen
Asheville

McAuley Electrical Services

518 Lafayette Avenue
Asheville

MGC of WNC, Inc.

PO Box 1228
Waynesville

Mike's Heating & Cooling

329 Dogwood Rd
Candler

MJ Payne Electric Service

1001 Brown Rd
Pisgah Forest

Morissette Electric Inc.

4 Georgia Avenue
Asheville

Nemal Electronics

12240 NE 14th Ave

New Dream Renovations

10 Freno Dr
Asheville

NITELITES OF ASHEVILLE

20 GOLDENWOOD TRL
Mills River

Osteen & Lemmons Electric

PO Box 2523
Hendersonville

Paul's Installation & Repair LLC

POBox 6283
Hendersonville

Power Plus Electrical Service Inc

60 Morning Glory Ln
Weaverville

PRECISION WIRING

103 Stoney creek rd
Hendersonville

Quality Air

320 Sardis Rd
Asheville

R W JOHNSON INC

55 Smokemont Dr
Arden

Raymond Kirkland Electric

97 Sully Ln
Burnsville

Rector Electric, LLC.

940 Fisher Branch Road
Marshall

Roby Electric Inc

2401 W Morehead St
Charlotte

Service Today

2001 Asheville Hwy
Hendersonville

SERVPRO of Henderson County

PO Box 2108
Fletcher

Shealy Electric Company Inc

412 Kanuga Rd
Hendersonville

Smart Repairs

1084 North Ridge Road
Hendersonville

SMOKEY MOUNTAIN CONTRACTORS

100 OLETA RD
Hendersonville

SOLID ROCK MASONRY

63 HOUSTON ROAD
Barnardsville

Sonrisa Builders Inc.

1227 Bald Top
Hendersonville

SPERANZA'S WEATHER HOUSE

100 6TH AVE E
Hendersonville

Splawn Elec & Htg

3562 Chimney Rock Rd
Hendersonville

Steven D Baldwin Electrical Contractor

69 E Mountain Way
Asheville

Stuller Power Solutions

130 Ashwood Rd
Hendersonville

The Fixer

106 Malvern Dr
Hendersonville

The Hoff Group Technologies

8 Fox Hill Dr
Candler

THURMAN ELECTRIC

1062 S MILLS RIVER RD
Mills River

TIM OWEN ELECTRIC

419 Big Bend Rd
Brevard

Tim Wells Electric

1835 Old Haywood Rd
Asheville

Trinity Electric

Box 2333
Hendersonville

Tripp's Renovations

231 Starling Way
Hendersonville

Volt Electric USA

31 Gudger Rd
Candler

WAL CONSTRUCTION

16 HEAVENLY VIEW DR
Weaverville

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Whitted Electric

PO BOX 405
Canton

WILLETT ELECTRIC

229 NEWFOUND RD
Leicester

WNC Electronic Service

11 Pineview Road
Fairview

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