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B
" Very well, the contractor phoned and explained my situation. He requested that I authorize the work and then he can be more precise about the price. The price" was not reduced. He did the job he was contracted to do. The tech also suggested using a giological flush each month to prevent the future clogs. mily

-Mark Z.

A
"As usual went well, have used before. Very honest, does good work, has good rates, and squeezed us in due to an inspection deadline. Recommend" and if we weren't moving out of town he would stay our go to plumber.

-Derek R.

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Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

You have not said how old your house is, what normal water line life in your area is, whether it is leaking under the foundation or under the yard, etc. Cost depends a great deal on length of run, depth to dig to get below frost line, whether excavation will be through trees or other obstructions or open area, whether ground along route is too steep for a backhoe to work on, etc.

The first thing you really need to figure out is whether this is a spot repair issue, or a total line replacement issue. Your plumber should be able to help with that determination.  Very general rule of thumb - very old line from before 80's, if galvanized pipe, could be at its practical life and be ready for total replacement. Copper line generally last about 50-70 years UNLESS in a corrosive soil environment or if it has groundwater flowing actively past it, then can be 20-30 years. Plastic lines from the 60's to 80's vary a lot - from as little as 10 years to 50 plus dependingon brand. Plastic lines (PVC, HDPE, PE) from the 80's and later are expected to last 50-100 years - most have not failed yet, so no good handle on how long they will last.

An above-ground or under the slab line a plumber will do. Buried line outside he generally subcontracts to an excavator to dig and backfill the line, or asks you to get the excavation done.

 

If section needing replacement is under your floor slab or foundation, then a full replacement can be many thousands of $ depending on how many linear feet, and if interior flooring will have to be replaced or if you are on a bare concrete slab or bringing the new line in above-ground once you get through the foundation. A simple one-spot buried pipe repair (based on acoustic locating and precisely measuring the location of the problem) can be as little as $400 but probably more often $1000 or so - more if poor access like under a slab underneath stairs.

If the runs to be replaced are exposed in a crawl space or basement than it can run as little as $20/LF (probably $400 minimum job cost) to replace.

 

Outside line to the street can run from as little as $10/LF in areas where the pipe is shallow (no annual frost penetration) and in easy digging soil, to $250/LF or more if deeply buried, have to excavate through trees and heavy roots or boulders, steep topography, other utility interferences etc. Generally not more than $50/LF. Commonly, instead of digging up the old line, they select a new semi-parallel route from a good connection point for you existing interior water lines at the foundation (maybe not where it currently comes in, depoending on access) to the street main shutoff valve (called a "key box", taking a route between them that is easiest to get a backhoe into and minimizes destruction of valuable plantings or trees. A number of $50/LF is commonly tossed around as "normal" for this type of job, if exceeding 100 feet or so and digging and access conditions are normal.

If your connection is in the middle of the street rather than along your side in the yard, that can easily add $2-5,000 to the job, as the water utility usually has to do that part, and repair the street afterwards. In a major throughway street, even more because of traffic control, multi-agency permits, etc.

 

As always, find 2-3 responsible, well-recommended (Anglie's List ?) contractors, and then get bids. The route I would go is first go with your regular plumber to locate the leak (probably acoustically, by listening for the leak) and determine the scope of work needed, then if major, go for multiple bids.

 

?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

?
FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
www.thomeservices.com

Drain Cleaning reviews in Durham

A

Rating
was very timely in meeting appointments and project start time. Due to tricky path around existing electrical system got a second opinion on the project and provided alternative recommendations. He and his team completed the work in one 12 hour day which we expected would take at least 2 days. He was ...More so concerned with appearance of visible work that he returned and redid a tricky connection to improve appearance. Team was extremely flexible working around family events and minimized time water service was shut down.
- Guy D.
A

Rating
I explained the problem, shared what I knew about the layout of the underground sewer lines, and the plumber got to work. We were surprised to find a large knot of paper/rags of some sort in the drain, but it was quickly and efficiently removed and we're now back to free-running drains. Prompt and efficient; great service.
- Durwin S.
A

Rating
He was able to give us a quick appointment, showed up on time, assessed the problem, had to go to Lowes for parts, and replaces some clogged filters that were causing the low pressure issue. He was done quickly and we were up and running in no time!
- LAURA M.
A

Rating
Everything was fantastic. I called that day about scheduling a main line clean and was pleasantly surprised that they were available same day. They arrived when they said they would. The two gentlemen who performed the service were courteous and knowledgeable. They left everything as it was, not an item out of place when the work was complete. ...More I was very pleased with the price, it was much lower than the other places I contacted. I have already added them to my address book, there is no question that I would use them again :)
One last bit I can't forget, I received a call after the service was performed to make sure everything was done to my satisfaction. Above and beyond customer service that seems to be lost theses days!!
- Nichole S.
A

Rating
My husband and I had a really great experience with this company! Our sewer line backed up and we tried to snake it with another company but it didn't work so we had to hydro jet the clogged pipe. Unfortunately it ended up being a much bigger problem than just a clog. There were a lot of roots but we also saw that part of the sewer line had ...More collapsed and it was in a place that wasn't easy to access. :( Their crew came out quickly, they were very professional and they showed me everything that was going on until I understood it. Then they worked with me to go over the options for repairs until we found the best option, which I was really pleased with. Then the best thing - they moved quickly - which was great because we couldn't take showers or flush our toilets, etc.!! Their workers - Gio and Michi and a few others - were really considerate, friendly and extremely hard-working. I was very impressed with their work ethic! The supervisor, , was really friendly and helpful and helped to work out a good deal, along with the owner. They seemed more focused on getting the job done right and finding the best solution and not on running up a huge bill. The guys were at our house for 3 days and they worked hard - even coming in all day on Saturday to get our plumbing up and running as quickly as possible. I really appreciated their efforts to finish the job as quickly as possible!!! All in all, I was really pleased with their prices, their quality and their work ethic. I would definitely recommend them and use them again myself.
- holly Q.
A

Rating
I have currently employed the plumbing services of " " on three occasions and have been very satisfied each time with the professionalism of Mr. (the owner). I am in the real estate business and have over the years employed many plumbers and Mr. is the best of those. He ...More offers suggestions/options and provides detailed answers to all of my questions. You feel that he thinks problems thru and does not rush a job in order to finish quickly and get paid. I would highly recommend ' " to all Angie's List members.
- FLORIAN S.
A

Rating
returned our message promptly. He was available to to do the repair work in about an hour and a half. He arrived before the estimated time. He was friendly and professional. He inspected the leak and recommended that we replace both the hot and cold water pipe due to the age and condition of the pipes. We agreed to his recommendation. ...More He used copper pipes and completed the work in about two hours. The workmanship was excellent! We would recommend using for your plumbing needs.
- Greg Y.
A

Rating
Although the appointment had been scheduled for early in the morning, came only a couple of hours later. When I called the office it took a while till called me back. She apologized for the delay because of unforeseen problems with another job. Because the bathroom shower drain was blocked she snaked ...More the drain. She ran the cable a couple of times down the drain. Although nothing could be brought up, there seemed to be something resisting the snake. could eventually destroy the blockage. She also tested all other drains in the house. worked very thoroughly and explained what and why she was doing it. She is very friendly and professional. Except of the scheduling and responsiveness which was not optimal in my case I was very pleased with her work. I will hire her again.
- Gudrun N.

Drain Cleaning Companies in Durham, NC

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1st Ditch Plumbing

204 Fox Run Drive
Wendell

3D Professional Services

4348 Karlbrook Ln
Raleigh

3G construction

1658 whites kennel rd
Burlington

3rd Generation Plumbing

2201 Stonehenge Drive
Raleigh

5 Star General Services & Maintenance

3518 Mayfair Street
Durham

A & A Plumbing Co

323 Goodwin Rd
Durham

A & J Drain

PO Box 13
Holly Springs

A & L Plumbing & Piping

4528 Hillsborough Rd
Durham

A A Plumber Inc

209 Neuse River Pkwy
Knightdale

A H Plumbing

PO Box 1345
Raleigh

A Master of All Trades

302 Old Mill Village Dr
Apex

ABC Plumbing Company, Inc.

PO Box 280
Clayton

Acme Plumbing

636 Foster St
Durham

Acts Construction Inc.

P.O. Box 942
Holly Springs

Advance Pumps & Plumbing Inc

PO Box 1225
Carrboro

AFFORDABLE PAINTING & REPAIRS

12108 Nada Road
Zebulon

Affordable Plumbing

3000 Dearborn Dr
Durham

After Hours Plumbing and Pump Service

2010 New Sharon Church Rd
Hillsborough

ALL AMERICAN HEATING & AIR

8817 WESTGATE PARK DR
Raleigh

All American Septic

3056 Emmitt Pond Rd
Raleigh

All Trade Contractors

PO Box 4451
Cary

ARS / Rescue Rooter Raleigh

517 Pylon Dr
Raleigh

Aus Plumbing Inc.

45 Blazing Star Ln
Bahama

Barbour & Pourron Plumbing

114 Lee Court
Clayton

BEASLEY'S SEPTIC TANK SVC INC

2511 ROLLING PINES AVE
Durham

Benitez Carpentry & Renovation Inc

110 Sandlewood Dr
Durham

Benjamin Plumbing

1400 Stonewealth Dr.
Knightdale

Bill's Handyman Service

41 Christys Way
Roxboro

Bill's Hire-A-Hubby

4220 Old Graham Rd
Pittsboro

Bill's Hire-A-Hubby

4220 Old Graham Rd

Bizzy Bee Plumbing Inc

1939 High House Rd
Cary

BLAKE QUALITY PLUMBING SERVICE INC

5111 N WILLOWHAVEN DR
Durham

Bobby Davis Septic Tank Services

5835 Family Farm Rd
Morrisville

Bobby Dickerson Plumbing

1156 Kimball Dr
Durham

Bolton Construction and Service, LLC

1623 Old Louisburg Rd
Raleigh

Borges Construction Company LLC

8800 Midway West Road
Raleigh

Brad Johnson Plumbing

Tyonek Drive
Durham

Brian Yates Plumbing

5186 US 501 S
Chapel Hill

Brooks Handyman Services, LLC

404 Wolf View Dr
Raleigh

Brothers Maintenance Service

6206 Russell rd
Durham

Bud Matthews Service & Building Co Inc

545 Old Farrington Rd
Chapel Hill

C & S CONTRACTING INC

4605 TREADSTONE CT
Raleigh

CAM atlantic LLC

P O BOX 5303
Cary

Capps Plumbing

7306 Manassas St
Fayetteville

Carolina Climate Control

347 Riverstone Dr
Clayton

Carolina Fix-It, Inc.

303 Rose Court
Benson

Carolina Plumbing Co

719 Mattress Factory Rd
Mebane

Carolina Plumbing Specialists

6121 Country Heritage Lane
Wake Forest

Cary Plumbing Co

226 E Cedar St
Cary

CENTRAL CAROLINA SEPTIC TANK

1407 BAPTIST RD
Durham

Chambers Plumbing And Piping Inc

1418 Miller Rd
Hillsborough

CHAPEL HILL PLUMBING INC

810 WARD ST
Chapel Hill

Choice Home Warranty

1090 King Georges Post Rd

CK's Plumbing & Backflow LLC

PO Box 10522
Raleigh

Contract Plumbing of NC Inc

PO Box 1924
Fuquay Varina

Corasaniti Home Services

214 Rocky Lane
Hillsborough

Daniel Plumbing

4405 Old Village Road
Raleigh

DC Handy Men

709 Carver St.
Durham

Dennis Plumbing Inc

9124 Hunters Green Drive.
Zebulon

Devlins Plumbing of NC,LLC

5441 Lumley Rd unit 104
Durham

Dr Drain Plumbing

5209 Woods End Rd
Hillsborough

Drain Magic,inc.

p.o.box 91182

DURHAM PLUMBING REPAIR

2806 DUBLIN ST
Durham

Durham Plumbing Services

2508 East Club Blvd
Durham

E W Gladden Plumbing & Piping

4740 Old Hwy 75
Oxford

Earl On Call A Handy Man Company

556 Brintle Rd
Reidsville

EAS Professional Painting

5213-107 Wynslow Park Drive
Raleigh

East Atlantic Plumbing

321 Yulan Dr
Wilmington

Enviro Air

3405 Banks Rd
Raleigh

Evolution Plumbing, Inc.

PO Box 1704
Sanford

Exterior Improvements LLC

146 apple ct
Clayton

Faison Plumbing Plus

2555 Capital Dr
Creedmoor

Flow-Teck

901 Willie Gray Rd
Timberlake

G. Wilkins Enterprise LLC

1030 Toad Hollow Lane
Mebane

Garrison Plumbing

1200 Manco Dairy Road
Pittsboro

Green Grove Landscaping & handyman services

140 bpw club rd apt d9
Carrboro

Green Horizon

4620 Industry Lane Suite C
Durham

Gregory Home Improvement

3514 East Geer St.
Durham

H B Inc.

2625 Hunters Meadow Lan.
Raleigh

H.R.S

P.O Box 1203
Durham

Halsey Handyman Service Inc.

4908 Hoyle Drive
Raleigh

HARMON PLUMBING SVC INC

1405 OLD OXFORD RD
Durham

HERITAGE PLUMBING CO LLC

7224 SHAWAN RD
Wendell

Heritage Plumbing Company

7224 Shawan Rd
Wendell

Hestand Associates, Inc.

PO Box 17128
Raleigh

Home Logic Handyman Services LLC

300 Oleander Road
Carrboro

Horizon Plumbing LLC

2206 Hopeton Ave
Raleigh

Hydro Dynamics,LLC

8134 Primanti Blvd
Raleigh

J C Johnson Plumbing & Septic Service

608 Cornerstone Ct
Hillsborough

J&R Home Improvement and More

1421 E Broad Street Suite 241
Fuquay Varina

JACS NC, LLC.

4724 Hargrove Road
Raleigh

Jayks LLC

1808 Angier Ave
Durham

JD Plumbing, Heating, & Air Conditioning

4416 Bennett Memorial Rd.
Durham

JIM HARRIS PLUMBING

4908 DERBYSHIRE PL
Durham

Jordan Plumbing and Piping LLC

2200 Dominion St
Durham

Just Josh Odd Jobs and Designs

7509 Idolbrook Ln
Raleigh

Justin Allen Plumbing

7345 Shady Stroll Lane
Willow Spring

JVG PLUMBING

PO BOX 51875
Durham

k&s plumbing llc.

2100 coley creek ct
Willow Spring

King's Plumbing

2533 Buckingham Dr
Franklinton

Laddie Co

1655 Crawford Rd
Graham

LARRYS HOME & OFFICE REPAIR

4220 JAMES RD
Raleigh

Legacy Plumbing Company

7416-C Chapel Hill Rd
Raleigh

Loyd Plumbing Co Inc

102 Goshen St
Oxford

Maintenance Men On Call

2201 Royal Birkdale
Cary

Metro Rooter Plumbing

355 S McDowell St
Raleigh

Metro Rooter Plumbing - Raleigh

621 St George Rd
Raleigh

Michael & Son

4001 Atlantic Ave
Raleigh

Modern Solutions

4922 Old Page Rd.
Durham

Mr. Rooter Plumbing of Wake County

2001 Deep Forest Dr
Raleigh

My Favorite Plumber

7309 Hihenge Ct. Apt. #3
Raleigh

Nathans Carpentry Services LLC

2304 Wade Hampton Rd
Hillsborough

NCWaterHeaters.com

1312-101 Kirkland Road
Raleigh

New Vision Renovations and Repairs

108 Amsterdam Dr
Clayton

Okello's Services

808 Brigham Rd
Raleigh

One Call Plumbing

3525 Mossdale Ave
Durham

Pete's Plumbing

555 West Hargett Street
Raleigh

Pipetechs Plumbing

6600 Mt Herman Rd
Raleigh

Plumbing Concepts Inc

1501 Grassy Hills Ln
Holly Springs

PlumbV Inc

805 Hidden Acres Ln
Chapel Hill

Poole's Plumbing

3708-101 Conquest Dr
Garner

PRECISION PLUMBING

P.O. Box 216
Goldsboro

Progressive Service Co

110 Fortune Way
Raleigh

Project Services Inc

135 Clancy Cir
Cary

Pure Line Plumbing

2305 Orangewood Dr. Ste. 107
Durham

R & L water pump service

1545 appaloosa trail
Franklinton

Raleigh Plumbing & Heating Inc

5060 Trademark Dr
Raleigh

Reddie Rooter

4811 Tapers Drive, Apartment H
Raleigh

REID'S HOME REPAIRS

3613 Brentwood Rd
Raleigh

ROOTERMAN

1405 OLD OXFORD RD
Durham

Roto Rooter

8830 Midway West Rd
Raleigh

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

1700 Orr Industrial Ct
Charlotte

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

8820 Midway West Rd
Raleigh

Rural Plumbing & Heating Inc

701 E Six Forks Rd
Raleigh

S & A Construction Co

2820 Trawick Road
Raleigh

Sal's plumbing and drain

2212 Gresham Lake Rd
Raleigh

Sards Plumbing

2801 Margot's Ave
Wake Forest

Schwartz Plumbing Company

1129 Corporation Parkway
Raleigh

Scott Zimmerman Plumbing

7429 Saunders Rd
Willow Spring

Shelton Plumbing Co

3 Bravehart Ct
Durham

Smith Exterminating Company Inc

5507 Hillsborough St
Raleigh

Sparrow & Sons Plumbing & Heating

305 W Weaver St
Carrboro

Speedy Nelson

105 Rother Ln
Durham

SPG Plumbing

2659 Cedar Creek Rd
Youngsville

Starr Service Co

300 Sherwee Dr
Raleigh

STEVE'S PLUMBING

PO BOX 209
Hillsborough

Straight Flush Plumbing

978 Mitchell Rd
Lillington

Streamline Plumbing & Electric Inc

6521 Mt Herman Rd
Raleigh

TCR Rooter & Plumbing LLC

5020 Departure Drive
Raleigh

TEBCO Maintenance

PO Box 21
Wilson's Mills

The Home Doctor

10121 Brokers Tip Lane
Raleigh

Total Construction by Dale Lands LLC

13376 US Hwy 70 Business West
Clayton

Tri Pride Plumbing,LLC

7413 Six Forks Rd.
Raleigh

Triangle Service Experts, Inc.

5929 Crepe Myrtle Ct
Raleigh

Wood Termite & Pest Control, Inc.

1336 N Brightleaf Blvd
Smithfield

WT Murphy Plumbing Co

412 Shambley Rd
Mebane

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