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A
"He was responsible, respectful and professional. He was able to almost accomplish everything we had hoped that he would be able to do in the day, and will follow" up generously with us for the final small things.

-Miriam B.

A
"The staff was very prompt in returning the calls and scheduled the service within 24-48 hours. Arrived to perform the inspection in time and also arranged a rapid" repair on the spot. The needed re-wiring of sub-panel was completed the same afternoon once the diagnose was done. It is amazing how fast they could get to the spot and resolve issues. Their response after the service was prompt too. Will recommend to others.

-kelly L.

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Local Articles in Burlington

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Electricians

Electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person.

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Electrical Troubleshooting

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you're experiencing issues.

Follow the rules or risk paying the price – that’s especially true when planning a home improvement project – big or small. You want to be certain all the work being done on your home is up to code. If you don’t, it could cost you.

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As a home seller, there's nothing more nerve-wracking than waiting for the results of the buyer's home inspection.

Will your existing lamps and dimmer switches work with your new light bulbs? Find out what experts want you to know about CFLs and LEDs.

Angie's Answers

?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?
Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

?

The amperage is the rated power it can handle. Modern houses are generally built with 200 amp panels, and a lot of the newer ones are going 300-350 amps as more and more electronic devices and fancy and high-demand kitchen devices and increased lighting are used in homes.

Both are just as safe - the 200 amp one will just have many more breaker slots, allowing way more circuits, and providing more room for expansion in the future, especially for power-hungry things like shop tools. Each uses only as much electricity as is used in the circuits - the panel itself does not consume any electricity, so no long-term impact there. It is just a circuit connection box where the individual circuits are connected, with circuit protectors (breakers) in line before it connects to the main line to your electric usage meter.

Unless you are real tight on money on this job, I would upgrade to 200 amps capacity - the incremental cost is about $100-200 or so over the 100 amp panel. If your incoming power line cannot handle 200 amps, you could install a 100 amp main breaker to keep the power company happy but put in the 200 amp breaker panel, so in the future a main line upgrade could be done with only a main disconnect breaker upgrade of $100 or so, without having to change anything inside the house.

Having the larger panel, especially if 200 amp capacity all the way from the meter, can be a selling point (or rather, lack of a negative point) to a potential buyer with lots of electronics or who is into shop power tools. It would also facilitate conversion to electric heat / water heating if someone wanted to do that.

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

?

An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

Electrician reviews in Burlington

A

Rating
The work was excellent. and his assistant were on time and professional. The responsiveness to our request for the work required was fantastic. Appointment options were provided to get the work done. made sure that the original work would be done promptly, the next day, by stopping at our house in ...More the afternoon on his way home from work. Had the job done withing an hour. Fantastic!!!
- Michael M.
A

Rating
The original electrician assigned could not come at scheduled time due to a family emergency, but the company called to let us know the situation and offered to send another electrician working in our area at a later time in the same day. We were agreeable.
Electrician arrived at scheduled time, but didn't have a dimmer switch, because he ...More wasn't the original assigned electrician and didn't know what parts were needed. He offered to go their electrical supplier (if they were open, which they were - barely) and obtain the necessary dimmer switch.
Switch was replaced without any issues. He also looked at the bathroom exhaust fan, and said that the heater was actually not working, and there wasn't anything more he could do unless / until I purchased a new fan.
My "price" concern is with the charge for troubleshooting, which is in the neighborhood of $300, even though it seemed to require only about 15 minutes! They seem to have set amounts they charge for certain services, which can be a value, or not, to the homeowner. I ended up paying for the $88 value package (which presumably gave me $200+ value in work) plus another $21 for the service. Considering this included the switch, and he was maybe at my house for a total of an hour, that is probably typical...not any great value.
He also spent a fair amount of time describing other services I could purchase, but there was no high pressure or anything.
All in all, they were reliable, trustworthy and they stand behind their work, just need to get a good understanding of the charges to expect for the work you are having them perform.
- VICTORIA V.
A

Rating
Work was of high quality and was completed promptly without any surprises. Crew worked very closely with the cabinet installer planning ahead each day. They were very attentive and cleaned up the work place each day, no mess was left behind. Everything was explained in detail and our questions/concerns were answered patiently as the project progressed. ...More Price seemed fair and very competitive with other estimates I got for this job. Overall, we were very pleased with the final product and would love to use them again for future projects.
- Nicolae B.
A

Rating
sent out 2 workers to check out why we were experiencing an electrical when in our shower. It was diagnosed that we needed a grounding wire attached to our water line.
- Bob B.
A

Rating
was able to track down the root cause of 4 light switches that were
not working. It was an unusual cause linked to a switch that was
working. It took a lot of checking the electrical system. House wired in
a strange way when built. But, he solved the problem! was quick
to respond ...More and fit us in his schedule. This is the second time we have retained for our needs. Will use him again.
- Barbara F.
A

Rating
Great work - clean, professional, and prompt. They gave an estimate on the phone and it was less expensive than anticipated.
- Dan P.
A

Rating
Upon requesting service, Nick was very quick to respond to my questions and walked me through the pricing for the service. His technicians arrived on time, were willing to explain their work, etc. I did have a wall switch that went to an unknown location, and after some investigating the technician admitted that re-wiring the switch to the light would ...More require a smaller/more nimble technician to navigate the very tight attic space. Overall, however, the rest of the work was completed in a timely manner and to the quality promised. I would call them again for sure.

- Tim S.
A

Rating
was extremely professional and did a great job. It wasn't going to be easy but he worked quickly and efficiently to get it done. We would definitely use him again!
- Kelly D.

Electricians in Burlington, NC

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

3G construction

1658 whites kennel rd
Burlington

A & B Electric LLC

1042 Hastings Hill Rd
Kernersville

A-OK ELECTRIC COMPANY

P.O. Box 10943
Greensboro

ACC ELECTRICAL SVC

120 N 9TH ST
Burlington

ACTION ELECTRIC OF GRAHAM LLC

2819 RUSSELL MCPHERSON RD
Burlington

Advanced Appliance Service

3907 Reynolda Rd
Winston-Salem

Affordable Home Repairs

8401 Spicer Ln.
Stokesdale

Airco Heating & Air Conditioning Inc.

3413 Frye Bridge Rd
Clemmons

Alamance Asset Recovery LLC

1235 Collins dr.
Burlington

ALAMANCE ELECTRIC SUPPLY CO

1323 BELMONT ST
Burlington

ALBRIGHT ELECTRIC CO

6062 S NC HIGHWAY 49
Burlington

Albright Electric Co

6062 S Nc Hwy 49
Burlington

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave SE

All & All Maintenance & Cleaning LLC

1457 Embler Rd
Lexington

ANDY HELTON ELECTRIC

516 WALKER AVE
Graham

AQUALIS SYSTEMS CO LLC

2608 US HIGHWAY 70
Mebane

AR Home Improvements, LLC

216 Athens Drive
Winston Salem

ATKINS HOME IMPROVEMENTS

418 TWIN CREEKS RD
Clemmons

ATLAS ELECTRIC CORP

1406 S MEBANE ST
Burlington

Avitech

1007 Pisgah Church Rd.
Greensboro

B E VAUGHAN & SON INC

608 OLD THOMASVILLE RD
High Point

B T SYSTEMS INC

405 Maple Ave Unit 1734
Burlington

B&B CONTRACTING

5543 Misty Hill Circle
Clemmons

Bain Heating & Air

3201 Spring Garden St
Greensboro

Ball Renovations, LLC

4227 sunburst dr
High Point

BEACON ELECTRICAL

814 ROXBOARD ST
Burlington

Beanie's Tots

PO Box 17391
Winston Salem

BECO INC

3671 Alamance Rd
Burlington

BELLOWS ELECTRIC

7519 STRAWBERRY RD
Summerfield

Best Choice Construction LLC

PO BOX 13706
Greensboro

Best Greensboro Electricians

PO Box 1453
Greensboro

Better Electrical Service

136 Sailway Rd
Winston Salem

Birdie Home Improvements LLC

488 Long Perryman Rd
Winston-Salem

Blackmon Electrical Company

2719 Ingram Rd
High Point

Booe Building & Remodeling

2611 BAYTREE DR
Greensboro

Bost Electric

1343 Granville Street
Burlington

BRANCH ELECTRIC

903 Hasty School Rd
Thomasville

Branley Electrical Service Inc

1824 Chandler St
Elon

Bretco Electric Company Inc

301 Thurston St
Winston Salem

bud martin

214 martin
Kernersville

BW Woods Electric Company

P.O. BOX 10731
Greensboro

C R REAVES ELECTRICAL SVC

2049 N NC HIGHWAY 49
Burlington

C2 Contractors, LLC

405 Banner Avenue
Greensboro

Can't Never Could

403 Shoffner St.
Graham

Canter Power Systems, LLC

2100 Fairfax Rd
Greensboro

Carolina Ductmasters

21 Business Park Circle
Arden

Cary Reconstruction Co LLC

2410 Reliance Ave
Apex

Chaviano's Electrical Solutions Co

4985 Trinity Blvd
Trinity

Chazown Media and Electrical, Inc.

509 S Ariel Farm Court
Greensboro

CHISHOLM SVC INC

PO Box 1977
Burlington

Clark Electrical Contractors

1173 Lambe Rd
Snow Camp

COLOR LANDSCAPES

2360 LUCK STONE RD
Burlington

Commercial Lightning Protection, LLC

2618 Battleground Ave
Greensboro

Computer Warehouse of NC

311A Pomona Dr.
Greensboro

Cook's Heating & Cooling Inc

409 Forum Pkwy
Rural Hall

Cox & Sons Electrical Technologies LLC

378 Valley Drive
Winston Salem

Crabbe Service

3410 Maple Ave
Burlington

Craftsman Direct Handyman Home Improvement

8311 Brier Creek Pkwy
Raleigh

Custom Air Inc

7132 Browns Summit Rd
Browns Summit

CUSTOM LANDSCAPE LIGHTING

1413 BEAVERTON TRL
Winston Salem

D W MORGAN ELECTRIC CO INC

1133 NC HIGHWAY 62 W
High Point

Danny's Tire And Automotive Center

1112 PARK TER
Greensboro

DEBRULER ELECTRIC

3819 UNION RIDGE RD
Burlington

Deck Specialist & Outdoor Living

2 Centerview Drive
Greensboro

DISCCA ENVIRONMENTAL SVC INC

2720 IMMANUEL RD
Greensboro

DOBY'S ELECTRICAL SVC CO

2983 SIMPSON MILL RD
Dobson

Dream, Design & Build, LLC

803 Celtic Crossing Drive
High Point

Dutch Barn Dan Inc.

5620 Cates Dr
Greensboro

EBS Electrical LLC

101 Fairley St
Swanquarter

ECSS, Inc.

1513 E. Center St. Ext.
Lexington

ELECTRIC ONE INC

P.O. Box 16763
Greensboro

ELECTRIC SERVICE PROVIDERS INC

3436 KIMESVILLE RD
Burlington

ELECTRICAL TECHNOLOGIES INC

2360 DEEP CREEK CHURCH RD A
Burlington

Electrician Greensboro

101 E. Meadowview Road
Greensboro

Evans Air Services, INC

618 Guilford College Rd
Greensboro

F.I.T.S. Right Tree Service

135 Midway Forrest Dr
Randleman

Farren Electrical Service LLC

329 Kernodle Rd
Greensboro

FREEMAN ELECTRIC

111 TRAIL ONE
Burlington

FREEMAN'S ELECTRIC

111 TRAIL 1
Burlington

General Motor Repair

2206 Westbrook St
Greensboro

Greg mr fix it

1910 brightwood school road
Greensboro

H P Wright Electric Company Inc

1010 Huffman St
Greensboro

HAITH'S ELECTRIC

1808 WHITSETT ST
Burlington

HALL ELECTRIC CO OF BURLINGTON

2261 CAROLINA RD
Burlington

HARRIS ELECTRICAL SVC CO

917 ASKEW ST
Burlington

Harrison Repair Company

202 Wedgewood Street
High Point

Hawfields Electric

3135-12A Calloway Dr
Mebane

Hawk's Home Improvement

PO Box 121
Toast

Hayes Homebuilders

410 S Spring St Ste B
Burlington

HEDGECOCK ELECTRIC CO INC

6004 TROTTER RIDGE RD
Summerfield

HERC ENTERPRISES INC

4779 ROCK RIVER RD
Concord

House Doctors

3048 N Old Greensboro Rd.
High Point

HUNT ELECTRIC SUPPLY CO

1215 MAPLE AVE
Burlington

Huston Electric

109 Autumn Wings Trail
Ararat

IdolCo Electric Inc

785 twin creek rd
Kernersville

INNOVATIVE DESIGN

5412 Fieldbrook DR
Greensboro

J H HUNLEY VACUUM CLEANER SVC

1313 QUEEN ANN ST
Burlington

J H PATTERSON ELECTRICAL CONTR

3621 FRIENDSHIP PATTERSON MILL
Burlington

J Williams Electrical Services,LLC

439 Dewey st AptD
Kernersville

J. H. I. Construction Co.

4714 Eagle Rock Rd
Greensboro

JDSmith Construction

413 S Chapman St
Greensboro

JEFFRIES ELECTRIC & SON

3107 PLEASANT GROVE UN SCH RD
Burlington

Jesse Causey Electric

311 Meredith Dr

JL Electric Company of Winston Salem

3247 Stavanger Ct
Winston Salem

JP Home Improvement & Repair

2217 Bertie St
Greensboro

KC's Improvement & Construction Co Inc

3118 Battleground Ave
Greensboro

KEMCO OF BURLINGTON INC

304 Auto Park Dr
Graham

Kernersville Electric

Maxine St
Kernersville

Laddie Co

1655 Crawford Rd
Graham

LEE NORMAN ELECTRIC SVC

845 CORNWALLIS DR
Burlington

Leonard Power Vac & Home Improvement

5950 Skylark Road
Pfafftown

LifeBuilders

1125 Johnsontown Rd
Thomasville

LOCKLEAR'S ELECTRICAL CO

4700 MOUNT WILLING RD
Mebane

Logan Heating and Air Conditioning

5142 North Causeway Drive
Winston Salem

Lorrie Long Realty

P.O. Box 491
Pleasant Garden

M W Burroughs Enterprise

185 New Heights Dr
Reidsville

MAINTENANCE MADE SIMPLE

4779 RANDOLPH CHURCH RD
Liberty

Make Some Space Inc

4004 Annie Laurie Dr
Greensboro

MARK COOK ELECTRICAL

633 CHAPEL HILL RD
Burlington

MARK HALL ELECTRIC INC

3250 ANTHONY CT S
Burlington

Martinez Renovations A1

109 Escondido Lane
Lowgap

MIRACLE-EAR

102 BURLINGTON SQUARE MALL
Burlington

MITCHELL HEATING AND AC INC

306 ORVILLE WRIGHT DR
Greensboro

NC Benchmark

Kernersville

NC's #1 Handyman

2463 N Church St.
Burlington

Nelson Alarms Inc

8353 NC Hwy 22 N
Climax

Nemal Electronics

12240 NE 14th Ave

Nothing But Detail Inc.

941 Kerns Ave
Winston Salem

OAKLEY T & S ELECTRIC

PO BOX 581
Snow Camp

Palmer Generator

3673 Alamance Road
Burlington

PARADISE DECKING & CONTRACTING

7503 WILLIAM BAILEY RD
Summerfield

Peace Electric Co.

6819 Wheatmore Ct.
Trinity

PERFORMANCE CABLING TECH

PO Box 757
Asheboro

Phillips Painting Services

912 Olive St
Greensboro

PIEDMONT GENERATOR

7502 NC HIGHWAY 22 N
Climax

PRO STYLE ELECTRICAL CONTR

22 SHERRY DR
Burlington

QUALITY MECHANICAL CONTRACTORS

3032 ROCK HILL RD
Burlington

R Harward Construction

PO Box 367
Hillsborough

R.D. MARION

1617 Frye Bridge Rd
Clemmons

Randolph Electric Membership Corp

879 McDowell Rd
Asheboro

RAY HICKS ELECTRIC

2504 SEVEN OAKS DR
Linwood

Real American Services

4340 river birch loop
Greensboro

Rexrode Electric

502 Spruce St
High Point

Rick Chism LLC

1803 Sheree Ln
Greensboro

Robert Swink

Greensboro

Roby Electric Inc

2401 W Morehead St
Charlotte

ROC Mechancial

145 Mayhew Ln
Mocksville

RON'S VACUUM SVC

1037 S CHURCH ST
Burlington

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

1409 Boulder Ct
Greensboro

Ryan-Myers Home Services

117 Eaglewood Dr.
Lewisville

S.R. Laws Electric

2136 Swicegood Rd
Linwood

Safety Electric Co.

3506 Dogwood Dr.
Greensboro

Sasser Companies, Inc

7237 Pace Drive
Whitsett

Scotts Ltd Inc

5945 Kendille Green Cir
Kernersville

Service Euro

4250 N Patterson Ave
Winston Salem

SesCon Inc.

2001 Janell Dr
Greensboro

SHAW HEATING A/c and PLUMBING

630 Mission Rd
Winston Salem

SNIPER ELECTRICAL TECHNOLOGIES

102 APPLE ST
Burlington

Sounds Unlimited

4300 Old Rural Hall Rd
Winston Salem

SOUTHLAND ELECTRICAL SUPPLY

147 N MAIN ST
Burlington

Sowers Services

201 crosscreek rd
Lexington

ST Renovations

822 Hasty Hill Road
Thomasville

Storm Electric

256 lexington ave
Lexington

Swaim Electric

3702 New Salem Road
Climax

T & S SALES & MFG INC

1915 WOODHUE DR
Burlington

Tedder Construction

2024 Pine Bluff St.
Greensboro

TET Repairs

Lexington

The Steel Electric Company

3 Palm Tree Ct.
Greensboro

The Steel Electric Company

3 Palm Tree Ct
Greensboro

TL Painting

1120 Norwood Ln
Lewisville

TLC Safe Watch

PO Box 1962
Thomasville

TOMMY V STRIGO INC

2579 ERIC LN
Burlington

Triad Dog Doors

8345 Lenbrook Rd
Kernersville

Triad Repair Services, Inc.

200-E Pomona Drive
Greensboro

TURNKEY CONSTRUCTION

2735 MAMIE MAY RD
Franklinville

UNITED ELECTRIC CO

710 KOURY DR
Burlington

VANCE INDUSTRIAL ELECTRONICS

1208 BELMONT ST
Burlington

WADE ELECTRIC

929 KING ST
Burlington

WAGNER CONSTRUCTION

2026 WOODLAND AVE
Burlington

WALKER CONSTRUCTION SVC INC

320 S ELM ST
Greensboro

Wall Turner Co

150 Kapp St
Winston Salem

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Whitman Construction LLC

PO Box 39536
Greensboro

WILL DICKERSON ELECTRIC CO INC

112 SHADOWBROOK DR
Burlington

Zava Industrial Inc

909 E. Elm St
Graham

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