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A
"
visited my home to provide a quote for adding insulation in my attic (it is quite lacking at the moment), and doing a radiant
" . He was very polite and professional. He was running a bit behind (about 20 mins), but he did call me to let me know, so it was no big deal (it was a rainy day and traffic was moving slower than normal so I wasn't surprised). He explained quite a bit to me about the products they use, how the process works, what my options were, etc. He took his time throughout the appointment, and was not pushy and did not try to use any 'high pressure' sales tactics. He was straightforward and provided me a verbal estimate on site, as well as a summary sent via email afterwards listing all the options we discussed and the prices. I was happy with the experience.

-April H.

A
"My experience was quite positive in every respect.
was prompt, professional, and knowledgeable. He explained the process and the finished" work. All bits of insulation were swept up, so that the house was pristine when he left.
seemed to care about the quality of his work, not just blowing in some insulation and moving to another job.

-Barry K.

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Local Articles in Apex

snowy house

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Without proper insulation and venting in your attic, icicles can form on your eaves, leading to a damaging ice dam on your roof, says Neubecker. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Donna B. of Mendota Heights, Minn.)

Avoid ice dams with proper attic insulation

Do you have icicles forming on your eaves and gutters and ice collecting on your roof? An ice dam can cause serious problems without proper insulation.

Even in cold-weather climates, homes often lack insulation between the finished, occupied portion of the home and the ground. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Paul B. of Bluffton, South Carolina)
Insulation, Energy Efficiency Auditing

Exterior foundation insulation is an often overlooked home improvement. It can help stop drafts, lower energy bills and keep your house warmer during winter.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

With insulation technology always advancing, you’ve got choices to make when it comes to the material you pick, says Lindus. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Lynn M. of Columbus, Georgia)
Insulation

Thinking of installing your own insulation? One highly rated provider shares six things that every homeowner should be aware of before attempting to DIY.

Before winter arrives, ensure your attic is sealed properly and has both adequate insulation and ventilation. (Photo courtesy of member Kitty Jones of Columbus, Ohio)
Insulation, Heating & A/C, Roofing

A comfortable, energy efficient home starts at the top. Those hot spots and cold rooms may relate to problems in your attic. Beyond adding insulation, what's a homeowner to do?

Angie's Answers

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Google and read about it. Some people swear by it, though their comments sound suspiciously like they were all written by the same person. Some call it a rip off - expecially people paying $6000-8000 for what would normally be a $1,000 range job.

I would not call it an outright fraud as they are providing a product that has some potential merit in the right application, but from a technical standpoint it sounds suspicious. They claim a 1/4 mat with doiuble sided foil facing is R-16 insulation. This at least is deceptive - they appear to be saying its radiant heat reflective properties give the equivalent of R-16 insulation, because there is NO WAY 1/4" foam is going to yield R-16 in an ASTM test for insulation, which is a thermal conductivity test. Would be lucky to get R-2 or so as an insulator, so this is basically a radiant barrier. Competing products from national brandname manufacturers list R value of 3.8-4.2 for one inch mats, so the equivalent for this 1/4" mat would be expected to be in the R1 range.

Properly installed, with ventilation on BOTH sides, it can be slightly effective in reducing radiant heat loss from the house, and more effective in reflecting heat in the attic from coming down into the house. However, from a thermodynamic and vapor control standpoint, they are trouble unless their integration into the house envelope is designed VERY carefully. Short explanation:

1) for keeping heat in the house, if they are installed above the attic floor insulation they can slightly limit air loss through the ceiling, and reflect radiant heat back down, resulting in warmer insulation, hence a warmer ceiling - but not as marked an improvement as added insulation would give.

2) for keeping attic heat from getting into the ceiling, they do reflect back a good portion of the radiant heat coming from the roof sheathing. This reduces the attic floor insulation surface temperature, so can reduce air conditioning cost. it does increase teh temperature in the attic, which can be very bad for support timbers and the roof sheathing.

3) the worst thing about how this type of foil radiant barrier is used is that, unless it has free air space on both sides, it acts as a vapor barrier. In the typicall application as a blanket over attic floor insulation, it traps any moisture coming up from the house, and can cause mildew and rot, especially in climates where the outdoor temperature gets quite cold.

4) the attic fans are generally a last resort measure - the normal house does much better, at no energy cost, using ridge vents with adequate eave openings to provide ventilation and cooling in the attic.

5) their effectiveness in winter heat diminshes rapidly with time - tests of attic radiant barriers show they lose about half their effectvieness within 5 years, because even a light dust coating greatly reduces their ability to reflect radiant heat, and greatly increases the absorption of heat from the hot air above them.

6) pay attention to cost - from what I see, their installed cost is many times the cost of normal insualtion or radiant barrier placement.

I would say, in summary, buyer beware, and I would be inherently leery of a product being sold the same way timeshares and "secret" moneymaking schemes are.

?

Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

?

A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.

?
Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
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Insulation reviews in Apex

A

Rating
We were told that the cement needed to cure for 3-4 days. We could then move furniture against outside walls. We were pleased with the expediency that the work took place.
- Susan G.
A

Rating
Initial contact with
Apex Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was very positive. He was very knowledgeable and friendly. I felt like I was very well informed after our initial discussion.
Workers were prompt, professional, courteous and neat. They performed the work efficiently and left no mess.
Afterwards,
Apex Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
made sure we knew how to correctly fill out our rebate form to provide to the utility company.
I would recommend this company for insulation services.
- Michael R.
A

Rating
Bottom line: I'm using 40% less gas heating than before the insulation.
A & J gave me the best price. I was impressed with the thorough way in which
Apex Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
put together the estimate.
I also qualified for a rebate from Columbia Gas.
Apex Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
helped guide me with questions concerning the rebate process....More /> If your roof has wide
Apex Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
like I have,
Apex Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
doesn't make holes in your walls that you will have to repair. He blows the insulation into the wall from above. They put a tube all the way down between the wall studs and begin filling and compacting from the bottom. This may not be possible in newer homes that were built with fire breaks in the walls.
Under the windows they did have to drill through the mortar in the brick wall to get a hose in, and the way they patch that up it isn't noticeable at all.
The crew are polite and friendly and hardworking.
I've monitored my energy usage via my programmable thermostat and I'm running the furnace 40% less than before the work that
Apex Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
did.
I'm a happy camper. I can't say anything bad about A & J.
- Robert G.
C

Rating
Called for insulation for the attic. The salesman recommended insulating the garage ceiling to help combat a cold bedroom above the garage. I
went for it. Didn't make a great deal if difference. I called at least 5
times to speak to someone about it, but no ever called me back. Just
took my $ and didn't care what happened afterwards. Would not
recommend.
- anil M.
B

Rating
The work was not done as agreed. Did not insulate the attic door. When I got into the attic to check the work, there was foam all over my floor as it was not properly put in. They were punctual but the quality of the work is unsatisfactory given the amount paid for a small house.
- Demelash A.
A

Rating
The service was very good.
Apex Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
not only took the time to answer a lot of questions beforehand, but has also been very receptive to answering some questions afterward. After the initial job, a few recess lights had some foam coming out (which is normal) and
Apex Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
sent an electrician who he works with to correct it. The workers were courteous, quick, and knowledgeable. If you want a job expertly done with great customer service, I highly recommend Absolute.
- Cortney G.
A

Rating
Things went great from the initial estimate to the work performed. The workers were polite, quiet and cleaned up after themselves. Great work!
- Mark T.
A

Rating
Had twenty windows and sliding door installed. Outstanding experience every step of the way from choosing windows to installation. Excellent staff, personable, on time, meticulous work and cleanup. I highly recommend this company.
- Sharon G.

All Insulation Contractors in Apex, NC

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1 Extreme 2 Another Construction

6304 New Market Way
Raleigh

2-brother renovation

220 dogwood st
Cary

360 Remodel LLC

14460 New Falls of Neuse
Raleigh

3G construction

Burlington

7 Star General Contracting LLC

1444 Cairo Way
Fuquay Varina

A & E Heating & Air Conditioning

3521 Pleasant Green Rd
Durham

Affordable Home Improvement

10301 Falls Mill Dr
Raleigh

Allied Spray Foams Inc

2624 Avent Ferry Rd
Holly Springs

ALLPRO INSULATION

PO Box 395
Youngsville

AMERICAN CRAFTSMEN OF NC

1016 W TRINITY AVENUE
Durham

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

American Insulation Solutions

297 Bay Avenue NW
Concord

Andrew Roby General Contractor Inc

2000 West Morehead St
Charlottte

ARS / Rescue Rooter Raleigh

517 Pylon Dr
Raleigh

Baker Roofing Co

517 Mercury St
Raleigh

Barker Property Maintenance Company

1401 Sunday Drive
Raleigh

Beasley's Heating & Air, Inc.

57 W.C. Beasley Lane
Coats

Bill's Hire-A-Hubby

4220 Old Graham Rd
Pittsboro

Bragg Premier Home Improvements

65 Edgemont Ave
Roxboro

BuildSense

502 Rigsbee Ave
Durham

Bullock's Home Enhancement

3500 US Hwy 64 W
Apex

C & S CONTRACTING INC

4605 TREADSTONE CT
Raleigh

Carolina Fix-It, Inc.

303 Rose Court
Benson

Carolina Weatherization

4824 Watkins Rd.
Raleigh

Cary Reconstruction Co LLC

2410 Reliance Ave
Apex

Cedarbrook Construction LLC

6932 Darcy Ln
Raleigh

Champion Design & Build Inc.

205 Bailey St
Kenly

Choice Home Improvements, Inc.

104 Oakland Ave.
Drexel

Cole Restoration Services

81 River Forest Drive
Pittsboro

Cole Roofing & Construction

3901 University Dr
Durham

Consolidated Roofing Systems

1401 Sunday Dr
Raleigh

Core Home Solutions, Inc.

510 Meadowmont Village Circle
Chapel Hill

CORE Remodeling Group Inc

2054 Kildaire Farm Rd
Cary

CORNERSTONE CONSTRUCTION

5011 DEPARTURE DR
Raleigh

CORNERSTONE RESIDENTIAL BLDRS

5405 BLUEBELL CT
Holly Springs

Country Boy Builders

3100 Edgetone Dr
Raleigh

Craftsmen Builders

813 Prince St
Cary

Crawlspace Doctor

6162 Loch Laural Ln
Raleigh

CRITTER CONTROL

4225 BENNETT MEMORIAL RD
Durham

Dandi Home Restoration

4108 Amherst Ln
Raleigh

Davis Home Improvement

327 Woodchase Green Dr
Fuquay Varina

Davis Home Repair LLC

PO BOX 2291
Garner

Decocorp Construction

9950 S Ocean Dr Apt 301

Dennis Well & Pump Service Inc

PO Box 1867
Pittsboro

DHT ENTERPRISES OF DURHAM

618 N Mineral Springs Rd
Durham

Discount Roofing and Siding

PO BOX 91512
Raleigh

DO ALL CONTRACTORS

P.O. Box 61043
Raleigh

DOUGLAS CONTRACTING

2405 Andor Pl
Raleigh

DreamQuest, Inc.

5013 N Glen Drive
Raleigh

Drurys Hobbies and Construction

13002 Eagle Ridge Drive
Zebulon

E2 Technologies, Inc.

145 US Hwy 70 W
Garner

EAS Professional Painting

5213-107 Wynslow Park Drive
Raleigh

East Coast Builders

3608 Davis Dr
Morrisville

EATMANS CARPETS & INTERIORS

8101 GLENWOOD AVE
Raleigh

ECO IRRIGATION INC

6300 Limousine Drive
Raleigh

EcoMaster LLC

2921 Glade Aster Ct
Raleigh

Emerald Energy Solutions

3000 NC HWY 43 N
Greenville

Energeyes

774 Durham Rd
Wake Forest

Energy One America

454 Jessen Ln

Energy Pros of NC

12335 Wake Union Church Rd
Wake Forest

EnergyTribe

510 Meadowmont Village Cir
Chapel Hill

EV MULTIPLE CONSTRUCTION,INC

1120 Delano St
Durham

Excella Roofing

112 Thistle Dr
Youngsville

Exceptional Living Solutions LLC

1125 Corporation Parkway
Raleigh

Exterior Touch Inc.

12610 Waverly RD.

F. A. Ray

PO Box 3761
Cary

Falcone Crawl Space & Structural Repair

1883 Scott Futrell Dr
Charlotte

Fan Man

119 North Main Street Suite 202
Mooresville

Fan Man Inc Raleigh

1513 Ramson Ct
Raleigh

Findlay Roofing Inc

4181 JVL Industrial Park Dr

Four of a kind Home Improvment

1613 Cool Springs Rd
Sanford

Fresh Air

Raleigh

GOG UNLIMITED,LLC

PO BOX 11164
Durham

Gonzalez Painters & Contractors LLC

4301 Bennett Memorial Rd.
Durham

Grade-A-Structures

5808 old nc 10
Durham

GREEN HOME SYSTEMS

20 Blackberry Cove

Green Horizon

619 Foster St
Durham

Green Planet Energy Solutions

9101 Southern Pine Blvd Ste 320
Charlotte

Green Planet Energy Solutions

9101 Southern Pine Blvd Ste 320
Charlotte

GreenTech,LLC

2500 Walnut St
Cary

H. Elliott Construction

1605 Twin Lake Dr.
Holly Springs

H.R.S

P.O Box 1203
Durham

HAMMERLINKS INTERNATIONAL LLC

PO BOX 373
Morrisville

Handyman Advantage

PO Box 80505
Raleigh

Healthy Home Diagnostics

5420 Old Poole Rd
Raleigh

Home Depot

9517 Strickland Rd
Raleigh

HOME DEPOT'S HOME SERVICES

920 BLAIRHILL RD
Charlotte

Home Performance NC

4608 Industry Lane
Durham

Home Works

2435 E. North St.

Homewarmth Inc

5222 Guess Rd
Rougemont

HORIZON CONTRACTING

6321 TAYLOR RD
Wendell

House Doctor

380 Collinsworth Dr
Clayton

Hutch Sunrooms Plus

3223 US Hwy 70 W
Goldsboro

Insulating Inc / Foam Works Insulators

5902 Fayetteville Rd
Raleigh

J&S Cleaning and Repair

13200 Strickland Road
Raleigh

JACKSON & SONS HEATING & AC

2330 INDIAN SPRINGS RD
Dudley

Jordan's Heating and Cooling Service

114 Hillside Dr
Louisburg

JOSEPH A BRADY

314 Bowen St
Franklinton

JOURDAN INSULATION

1001 S CHATHAM AVE
Siler City

Just Josh Odd Jobs and Designs

7509 Idolbrook Ln
Raleigh

Laffler Custom Homes LLC

231 Greenlyn Dr
Clayton

Leslie's Roofing LLC

6220 Falcon Ln

LiveGreen Inc

3115 Heritage Trade Dr
Zebulon

Luxury Exterior Solution

3600 N Duke St
Durham

Lynn's Renovation Gang LLC

309 Buck Jones Rd
Raleigh

Marmac Construction Inc.

1201 Miracle Drive,
Wake Forest

McNeely Pest Control

3831 Reynolda Rd
Winston Salem

Molescapes

PO Box 17128
Raleigh

Mr. Handyman of Western Wake County

4104 Ridgebluffs Ct
Raleigh

My Man Cleaners

200 Culvert St Apt A
Apex

NC Solar Now

3401-101 Atlantic Avenue
Raleigh

Neely Custom Builders LLC

129 Meadows Cir
Knightdale

ONOFRIO CONSTRUCTION INC

8804 Gulf Courtt Ste I
Raleigh

Orkin Pest Control

609 Mercury St
Raleigh

PATIO ENCLOSURES INC OF RALEIGH

1030 MORRISVILLE PKWY
Morrisville

Peak Energy Inc

PO Box 1241
Holly Springs

Pinter Construction & Development

11709 Appaloosa Run E
Raleigh

Prime Energy Group

PO BOX 10156
Raleigh

Professional Renovation Services

1124 Sandel Lane
Raleigh

ProTech Repair & Restoration

219-B Garner Business Ct.
Garner

R & D Painting

232 Wintergreen Dr.
Garner

R. Harward Construction

PO Box 367
Hillsborough

RAC Construction

1108 Athens Drive
Raleigh

Raleigh Waterproofing Inc

2610 Rowland Rd
Raleigh

Ramos Waterproofing & Seal Crawlspace

101 Wesley Street
Carrboro

RAY'S HOME REPAIR

2001 BROOKS RD
Durham

Remediation & Consulting Services

3004 Dunkirk Dr
Raleigh

Restoration Now of North Carolina, Inc.

2113 Sandy Plains Road
Wake Forest

Romero Construction INC

910 E. Ellerbee st.
Durham

Roof Roof

5015 West W T Harris Blvd
Charlotte

Roseman Enterprises, Inc (dba FASTHELP

135 Victoria Hills Drive
Fuquay Varina

Scott Riley Builders Inc

326 Roseland Ave
Durham

Scotts Customs, LLC

2695 Government Road
Clayton

Sealing Agents Waterproofing

PO Box 2370
Indian Trail

SERVICE ALTERNATIVES

103 Shady Ln
Clayton

Service Experts Heating & Air Conditioning

2815 S Wilmington St
Raleigh

Shamrock Waterproofing

6021 Glenthorne Dr
Raleigh

Smallcuts Home Improvement

3615 Britt Street
Durham

Smith Exterminating Company, Inc

5507 Hillsborough St
Raleigh

Southern Energy Management

101 Kitty Hawk Dr
Morrisville

Spray Foam Insulation of NC

1023 Denning Road
Benson

Stetten Realty Inc

3117 Kentish Town Ln
Raleigh

SUNRISE TILE & MARBLE INSTALLATIONS

PO BOX.1085
Holly Springs

The House Doctor

3926 Cumberland Rd.
Fayetteville

The Kitchen & Bath Showroom

1289 N Fordham Blvd
Chapel Hill

The Lambeth Co

5716 Heatherstone Dr
Raleigh

The Mold Solutions Group

2800 Winningham Rd.
Chapel Hill

The Surrell Group: LLC

3222 Ode Turner Rd
Hillsborough

Totally Legit Construction

812 Riverview Road
Raleigh

Tri-City Insulation

7204 Becky Circle
Raleigh

Triangle Construction, LLC.

PO Box 238
Holly Springs

Triangle Home Care

416 Cedarview Ct
Raleigh

TRIANGLE HOME SERVICE NETWORK

1271 TARBERT DR
Cary

Triangle Home Solutions

1745 Laurel Park Pl
Cary

Triangle Reconstruction

2010 Silky Dogwood Trl
Apex

TRIANGLE RENOVATIONS INC

2069 BOWEN RD
Rougemont

triangle restoration

9302 ten ten road
Raleigh

Trutech Inc

155 Glen Valley Rd
Raleigh

US Structures Corp

2474-337 Walnut St.
Cary

Vittro Glass

718 Cameorn Woods Dr
Apex

Vuncannon Contracting LLC

477 Avery Spence Rd
Fuquay Varina

VZ Competitive Painting And Restoration

7334 Chapel Hill Rd
Raleigh

W.M. Woodworking

1609 Tall Cane Circle
Willow Spring

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Wood Termite & Pest Control, Inc.

1336 N Brightleaf Blvd
Smithfield

Woodwright Builders

1203 Bayview Ct
Franklinton

Woody's Renovations and Maintenance Inc.

136 White Oak Dr
Youngsville

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