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A
"The 2 electricians went above & beyond our expectations. They took their time & performed great customer service which goes a long way. I will definitely" recommend and contract their services in the future.

-Jaclyn G.

B
"I used a Angie's Deal coupon to have
check a outlet under the sink that I was having problems with. They were prompt, having two electricians" come for the call. Everything checked out ok but they did comment that the main electric box was very old. Since the house was built in 1972 and it's the original box, they were correct. My boyfriend asked for an estimate to replace the box. I did feel the estimate was probably on the high side, but also wasn't in the mood to go through the hassle of getting other estimates. One electrician stayed to do the job and the other came back with materials and then left. He returned when job was complete to collect the payment. Both were very professional and did a great job explaining what they were doing as well as leaving the work area clean and tidy. New panel looks great.

-KRISTY K.

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Local Articles in Alexander

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Common Electrical Problems

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

Solar power panels
Heating & A/C, Electrical, Solar Panels

Homeowners should install green energy before the end of 2016 for a 30 percent tax credit.

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Electrical, Solar Panels

For wind power to work well in a residential setting, it needs much space and a free-flowing breeze.

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Electrical, Computer Sales

Whether you have a desktop or laptop, consider these tips to save electricity — and cash.

Angie's List ideas
Remodeling - General, Plumbing, Electrical, Auto Service, Roofing, Heating & A/C

Here are some of our favorite tips from highly rated service professionals over the past 20 years.

Angie's Answers

?
Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

?

An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

?

If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrician reviews in Alexander

A

Rating
It went great ,
Alexander Electricians Provider Name Locked
was on time and very knowledgeable. He recommended what attic I fan I should get and went to Home Depot to purchase it for me.
Alexander Electricians Provider Name Locked
is a very good communicate and electrician. I would highly recommend for any electrical work.
- joseph G.
A

Rating
Checked all outlets inside and out. Inspected areas in attic, found exhaust fan not working. Checked wiring on screen porch and found wires with coatings stripped off, , not properly wired at all. He was so professional and personable. I felt very confident with his recommendations. will be scheduling time for work to be done.
- Beverly D.
B

Rating
The owner of
Alexander Electricians Provider Name Locked
came Tuesday and determined that we needed a new circuit breaker for the new 3 pronged plug. He called in a younger associate to aid him in installing all the equipment. He then left to purchase the supplies needed. His associate set up the new plug. Ran the wires from the circuit box then above the ceiling tiles in the basement all the way to our laundry room on the other side of the house next to the kitchen. The next morning he arrived early to install the connecting box and run the wires and connect them to the main box. They had to work in an odd space that was awkward. They did a good job under close conditions. Then they cleaned up when they were done.

I would say they were very polite and professional. They did the work I asked them to do. The mistake was mine in listening to Lowes as to the type of plug the old dryer used. They were wrong. Unfortunately my washer and dryer were stacked in a closet. I could not pull them out to check to see what kind of plug was already there.

My only complaint about this Electric company came when the new washer and dryer were delivered. The delivery guys from Home Depot told me that the correct Electric plug was already there.

So no new plug was necessary. Instead we would have just been charged for their initial visit and not the $600. The delivery guy said that checking for this plug should have been the first thing the electrician did. For this reason I gave
Alexander Electricians Provider Name Locked
a lower score.... A B and not an A.
- Fred and Barb F.
A

Rating
Alexander Electricians Provider Name Locked
and his partner arrived on time, cleaned up their mess, and provided excellent service. The price was reasonable too.
- Josef S.
A

Rating
I bought a home built in the 1980s that had recently had a kitchen remodel. The individual who did the wiring did a very poor job. One of the GFCIs did not work at all and when my contractor replaced it, the microwave and a bank of lights stopped working completely. Another outlet was not attached to the stud and you could not plug anything into it because when you pressed on it to insert a plug the receptacle sagged back into the wall cavity. All of this was discovered two days before I moved in. As I am new to the area and a single woman, I turned to Angie's list to help me find a reputable electrician.
Alexander Electricians Provider Name Locked
responded to my inquiry the same day and was at my house the next. He got everything up and running in under an hour. I was so impressed that I hired him again to come back and do some additional work that was less urgent than having my microwave and lights working.
Alexander Electricians Provider Name Locked
is very honest, sincere and courteous. I highly recommend him. He will treat you fairly and with respect.
- Barbara R.
A

Rating
Alexander Electricians Provider Name Locked
is fantastic! He provided us a fair estimate and performed all the work to code. We enjoyed having him perform the work and have had him back to do a few more things for us. We would highly recommend him for anyone needing a trustworthy provider who will perform
- Harold F.
A

Rating
Alexander Electricians Provider Name Locked
arrived on time and started the work immediately. Even after the work ended up being more difficult than planed, they continued and were able to find the problem and complete the job. Very pleasant and polite young men, they went above and beyond. I must say I was extremely pleased that they stuck with their original estimate, even though the job was more challenging than expected. We will certainly use
Alexander Electricians Provider Name Locked
for our future needs.
- JACKI G.
A

Rating
Alexander Electricians Provider Name Locked
is always very punctual and extremely polite. He tells you what time he will be there and is there on time. He comes as soon after you call him (usually right away) and doesn't cancel or change days on you. He is very careful, efficient, and very tidy. He makes sure to clean up anything that needs to be cleaned up after he's finished working. He always asks if there's anything else that needs to be fixed, installed, etc. He's awesome. I will never call another electrician again (unless of course he gets too busy and then I will be really disappointed :))!
- Kevin Y.

Electricians in Alexander, NC

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A Green Electric

1160 high peak rd

A+ HOME IMPROVEMENTS

11 SCOTTSDALE DR
Asheville

A-Team Energy

131 Garren Creek Rd
Fairview

Accurate Electrical Services

1279 South Main St
Asheville

Advanced Electric of WNC LLC

215 East Oakview Rd
Asheville

AirVent Exteriors Inc

1852 Brevard Rd
Arden

Al's Remodeling

1010 Indian Hill
Hendersonville

Aldridge Electrical Contracting

P.O. Box 1118
Burnsville

ALEXANDER ELECTRIC MOTOR & PMP

521 LOWER FLAT CREEK RD
Alexander

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave. SE

ALL PROS WEST

11 CRYSTAL COUNTRY WAY
Asheville

Anders Home Repair

1514 5th Ave W
Hendersonville

ARIES ELECTRIC & DATACOM

64 DALYA RD
Swannanoa

Asheville Window & Door Inc

15 Walden Dr
Arden

AVL Electric

85 Ramsey Rd
Marshall

Bee Ridge Electric

9 Breckenridge Dr
Fairview

Blevins Construction, Inc

319 Roaring Spout Ln
Burnsville

Blue Ridge Construction

PO Box 2565
Candler

BTS Electrical Contracting

P.O. Box 39
Weaverville

Buchanan Construction LLC

44 Buck Shoals Rd
Arden

Buckingham Electric Inc

20 Candler Knob Rd
Asheville

Built More Construction

301 S Oconeechee Ave
Black Mountain

Canter Power Systems, LLC

2100 Fairfax Rd
Greensboro

Carolina Ductmasters

21 Business Park Circle
Arden

Carolina Electrical Technologies

10 Roselyn Way
Black Mountain

CHM Electric LLC

Horse Shoe

Classic Builders of Hendersonville

2535 King Rd
Pisgah Forest

CR1 Construction

27 Open Range Drive
Barnardsville

CTM Construction

PO Box 324
Riegelwood

Dampier & Stephens LLC

224 Thompson St
Hendersonville

DAVID COOPER ELECTRIC

105 STONE DR
Swannanoa

Dellinger Gang Electric

653 Westside Rd
Burnsville

Dominion Home Improvements

406 Jack St
Hendersonville

Dreamakers LLC

347 Scarlet Oaks Dr
Etowah

Electrical Swatt

7 Brookfield Dr
Candler

EnergySmith Home Performance

135 Sweeten Creek Rd
Asheville

Evans Residential Electrical & Construction

168 Hungry River Rd
Flat Rock

Everybody Needs Raymond Const. Comp., LLC

102 College Station Dr.
Brevard

Fernando the Handyman

9 Eve Dr.
Asheville

Fountain Electric Services

244 Callahan-Koon Road
Spindale

FOWLER & ASSOCIATES HOME BUILDERS INC

18 Spring Hill Drive
Arden

Full Circle Construction Inc

PO Box 2619
Hendersonville

G & M Construction

P.O. Box 6561
Hendersonville

Gary MacPeek Skilled Hands

179 Marlborough Rd
Asheville

General Electrical Contracting

PO Box 348
Asheville

Handi-Man Services

141 Dry Creek Ridge
Hendersonville

Handy Home Helpers

68 Wild Turkey Trail
Hendersonville

Handyman Matters of Western North Carolina

4900 Jeter Mountain Rd
Hendersonville

Harrington Electric Inc

8 Laurel Rd
Arden

Hendersonville Custom Painting & Remodeling

211 Windsor Ct..
Hendersonville

Hire a Husband Handyman Services

130 Avondale Rd.
Asheville

HOME DEPOT

795 FAIRVIEW RD
Asheville

HomeSource Builders

172 Charlotte Street
Asheville

HomeSource Design Center

172 Charlotte Street
Asheville

HONEY DEW IT

540 N FORK RD
Barnardsville

HoneyDid Handyman

115 Sleepy Hollow Ln
Canton

Horizon Heating & Air Conditioning Inc

1581 N Allen Rd
Hendersonville

HUGH GILLIAM ELECTRICAL

3467 BAT CAVE RD
Old Fort

Isom Electric

3300 N. Main Street., Ste D, PMB 325

Jackson Electrical Contractors, Inc.

57 Hunter's Ridge Rd.
Mills River

Jesse Klennon

220 Mansfield Street
Hendersonville

Ken Swensen

104 Sunset Hills Ct
Asheville

LEE LYDA ELECTRIC INC

950 Old Fairview Rd
Asheville

Logik Lighting & Electrical

PO box 185
Alexander

Mad Rabbit Renovations

15 Alton Way
Hendersonville

Marger's Quality Services LLC

16 Charter Glen
Asheville

MB HAYNES Corporation

187 Deaverview Rd
Asheville

McAuley Electrical Services

518 Lafayette Avenue
Asheville

Mike's Heating & Cooling

329 Dogwood Rd
Candler

Morissette Electric Inc.

4 Georgia Avenue
Asheville

NEED A HAND

1057 LONGBRANCH RD
Marshall

New Dimensions

Asheville

New Dream Renovations

10 Freno Dr
Asheville

NITELITES OF ASHEVILLE

20 GOLDENWOOD TRL
Mills River

Quality Air

320 Sardis Rd
Asheville

R W JOHNSON INC

55 Smokemont Dr
Arden

Rector Electric, LLC.

940 Fisher Branch Road
Marshall

Respro Electrical LLC

PO Box 529
Asheville

Smart Repairs

1084 North Ridge Road
Hendersonville

SOLID ROCK MASONRY

63 HOUSTON ROAD
Barnardsville

Sonrisa BuildersInc.

1227 Bald Top
Hendersonville

Steven D Baldwin Electrical Contractor

69 E Mountain Way
Asheville

T's Construction and Property Preservation

111 N Mapleton Dr
East Flat Rock

The Buddha Man Handyman

16 Vance Crescent Street
Asheville

The FixIt Angel JessyLynn

140 Clarks Chapel Rd
Weaverville

The Hoff Group Technologies

8 Fox Hill Dr
Candler

TIM OWEN ELECTRIC

419 Big Bend Rd
Brevard

Tripp's Renovations

231 Starling Way
Hendersonville

Volt Electric USA

31 Gudger Rd
Candler

WAL CONSTRUCTION

16 HEAVENLY VIEW DR
Weaverville

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Whitted Electric

PO BOX 405
Canton

WILLETT ELECTRIC

229 NEWFOUND RD
Leicester

WNC Electronic Service

11 Pineview Road
Fairview

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