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F
"Mr.
came to come up with an estimate. I called twice after waiting several weeks.
told me he'd call tomorrow" two different times. I waited from 10/29/2014 until 01/23/2015 and still haven't received the calls nor the estimate Mr.
promised he'd send me by email.me to provide free estimate. What went wrong or why I don't know. No explanation was given. I was very courteous throughout. I do feel disrespected and Mr.
has disrespected himself and his business.

-Richard P.

A
"Technicians were on time. They were very professional and efficient. They kept us abreast of the entire process and costs at all times. There were no surprises." Technicians were very respectful of our property and took the necessary steps to protect floors and countertops and walls.

-Cosmo T.

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Local Articles in Alexander

snowy house

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Ryan Electric owner Pat Ryan says he always makes sure clients inspect his work and are satisfied before he leaves a job. (Photo courtesy of Brody Ryan)

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

electrical wiring
Electrical

Electrical work requires trade knowledge and following code regulations in most states

outdoor lighting electricity
Lighting, Electrical

If you're experiencing electrical problems in your home or want to add capacity for new projects, consider hiring an electrician for these four services.

An outside outlet needs to be weather protected and include a ground fault circuit interrupter. (Photo by Gretchen Becker)
Electrical

What does it take to install an outdoor outlet, and how much does it cost? Highly rated electricians say it’s not as difficult or costly as you might think.

One LED can last up to 50,000 hours, the equivalent of 42 60-watt incandescent bulbs. (Photo by Hugh Vandivier)
Lighting, Electrical

LED lights are quickly becoming popular choices for interior home lighting, but can they really compete with incandescent bulbs? Are there any downsides to using light-emitting diodes?

Angie's Answers

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Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
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This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

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Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

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An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

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If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

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Electrical reviews in Alexander

A

Rating
My house is a 1950's 1200 square foot standard. We moved in over 5 years ago and part of the pre move in upgrade was installation of a new 200 amp electrical panel. One item I passed over due to money shortage was lights and adequate power in my garage. My wife and I would stumble around trying to plug in a single bulb light each time we entered the garage. I finally had the money and contacted
Alexander Electricians Provider Name Locked
for an estimate. He provided an accurate total and gave me the option of purchasing the lights and electrical supplies to have on hand for the start of the job. After
Alexander Electricians Provider Name Locked
arrived and work began I noticed how professional his work was and I appreciated the fact he kept me informed of progress. One of the lights I purchased from Home Depot was missing a part.
Alexander Electricians Provider Name Locked
spotted the issue was exchanged before more time was wasted. The lights, junction box and plugs installation went perfectly. Unfortunately for
Alexander Electricians Provider Name Locked
pulling the romex through my attic was not easy due to obstructions like my HVAC and 18" of blown insulation throughout. Another obstacle was pulling the new romex wire from the attic down into the panel. Seems the previous electrician had installed 200 amp panel at my request but failed miserably to provide additional capacity for routing new wiring and etc.
Alexander Electricians Provider Name Locked
to the challenge and rerouted another circuit and pulled all through without issue and completely to code. Explaining to me that further upgrades will require additional ducting to remain within code. I appreciated his professionalism because he provided a fair quote in advance and stood by the quote even when some challenges came up. He came down from the attic clean and never left insulation or debris within the house. He cleaned up and didn't leave any items behind. I checked my attic a few days later and noticed the thick
Alexander Electricians Provider Name Locked
of blown insulation looked like no one had been working around and on it. Nice. Now I enjoy going to my garage and using the easy access light switch, new lights and additional power.
- MARK M.
A

Rating
I called
Alexander Electricians Provider Name Locked
at 7:45pm on a Saturday night (just a few minutes ago) to schedule him to come replace what I thought was a faulty breaker.
Alexander Electricians Provider Name Locked
proceeded to ask me how I knew it was faulty and needed to be replaced. When I told him what I thought, he suggested that I tried something, and it worked! No need for a service call after all.
Alexander Electricians Provider Name Locked
was very polite on the phone, and I am so grateful that rather than just scheduling a time to come out to my house, he took the time to actually make sure his services were needed. I will be using him in the future when I have an actual problem.
- Sarah M.
A

Rating
I was very happy with the service
Alexander Electricians Provider Name Locked
provided. He was very prompt at responding back to me on e-mail. He was able to give me an appointment quickly. He was very professional, friendly, and knowledgeable. He had the problem diagnosed quickly and was able to fix it the same day. I would definitely recommend
Alexander Electricians Provider Name Locked
to others and will be using his services in the future.
- Sarah B.
A

Rating
Alexander Electricians Provider Name Locked
was responsive, prompt, and professional He was easy to get in touch with and he responded to all my requests right away. He showed up at my house at the promised time. He laid drop clothes so the floor would not be dirtied and when finished he vacuumed and cleaned the areas where he worked. I am very happy with the job that he did and I feel that his price was very fair. I would recommend him to anyone needing electrical work.
- Jeanette H.
A

Rating
They showed up on time. Were very professional and polite. Discussed things while checking them. Feel conferrable having them work on my home if I need any electrical work to be done.
- antoni K.
B

Rating
The electrician was very personable, went right to work and completed one of the items on the list. The second item not completed was due to the error of Home Depot and not his fault.
- Susan T.
A

Rating
Alexander Electricians Provider Name Locked
was awesome. Super easy to talk to, did a high quality job, and was an overall pleasure to work with. I will be hiring him again to do further work on our house for sure.
- Jeremy D.
B

Rating
The job was well done but Mr.
Alexander Electricians Provider Name Locked
was difficult to get in touch with and didn't return calls and e-mails for days or weeks. For that reason the project went on for far longer than it should have.
- SALLY B.

All Electricians in Alexander, NC

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A & E Electric LLC

P.O. Box 373
Mars Hill

A Green Electric

1160 high peak rd

A TOWNE ELECTRIC

11 Willow Branch Ln
Weaverville

A+ HOME IMPROVEMENTS

11 SCOTTSDALE DR
Asheville

A-1 Services Inc

PO Box 9431
Asheville

A-American Electric Inc

25 Sheehan Rd
Fletcher

A-Team Energy

131 Garren Creek Rd
Fairview

Accurate Electrical Services

1279 South Main St
Asheville

Advanced Electric of WNC LLC

215 East Oakview Rd
Asheville

Affordable Quality Electrical Service

444 Pridmore Hollow Rd
Hendersonville

AirVent Exteriors Inc

1852 Brevard Rd
Arden

Al's Remodeling

1010 Indian Hill
Hendersonville

Aldridge Electrical Contracting

P.O. Box 1118
Burnsville

ALEXANDER ELECTRIC MOTOR & PMP

521 LOWER FLAT CREEK RD
Alexander

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave SE

ALL PROS WEST

11 CRYSTAL COUNTRY WAY
Asheville

Allens Electric

417 Salisbury Rd
Hendersonville

Alliance Electrical Services

P.O. Box 1351
Hendersonville

ALP SYSTEMS, INC.

144 INDUSTRIAL PARK DRIVE, SUITE A-4
Waynesville

Ambassador Properties, Inc.

1104 Red Oak Dr
Hendersonville

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

Anders Home Repair

1514 5th Ave W
Hendersonville

ARIES ELECTRIC & DATACOM

64 DALYA RD
Swannanoa

Asheville Garage Door Service Inc

277 Lynn Cove Rd
Asheville

Asheville Remodeling Co

39 Alpine Wy
Asheville

Asheville Window & Door Inc

15 Walden Dr
Arden

AVL Electric

85 Ramsey Rd
Marshall

B Greene Builders Inc

15 Scott Ln
Etowah

B&D Superhandy Services

43 Hudgins Hollow Rd
Leicester

BARLOW ELECTRICAL SVC

46 NEW LEICESTER HWY
Asheville

Bee Ridge Electric

9 Breckenridge Dr
Fairview

Belk Electrical

4564 Old Clyde Rd
Clyde

Bentley Electrical Service

1055 Stagger Weed Rd
Bakersville

Blevins Construction, Inc

319 Roaring Spout Ln
Burnsville

Blue Ridge Construction

PO Box 2565
Candler

Bolton Construction & Service of WNC, Inc.

169 Elk Mountain Rd.
Asheville

BTS Electrical Contracting

20 Twin Springs Ln
Leicester

Buchanan Construction LLC

44 Buck Shoals Rd
Arden

Buckingham Electric Inc.

20 Candler Knob Rd
Asheville

Built More Construction

301 S Oconeechee Ave
Black Mountain

Buyers Edge LLC

PO Box 2172
Hendersonville

Canter Power Systems, LLC

2100 Fairfax Rd
Greensboro

Carolina Ductmasters

21 Business Park Circle
Arden

Carolina Electrical Technologies

10 Roselyn Way
Black Mountain

CAROLINA ENERGY SYSTEMS

125 LESTER LN
Penrose

CHM Electric LLC

Horse Shoe

Chris' Custom Carpentry

87 Crystal June Lane
Asheville

Classic Builders of Hendersonville

520 Patterson Rd
Hendersonville

Complete Energy Systems of WNC, LLC

2323 Greater Druid Hills Blvd
Hendersonville

Controlit Inc

111 Disosway St
Black Mountain

Councell Craftsman

1066 Columbine Road
Asheville

CR1 Construction

27 Open Range Drive
Barnardsville

CROWN ELECTRIC

100 Oak Knoll Rd.
Asheville

CT Enterprises Construction LLC

82 E Chippendale Dr
Mills River

CT Ring Electrical contracting inc

110 Hanover St
Asheville

CTM Construction

PO Box 324
Riegelwood

Dampier & Stephens LLC

PO Box 6400
Hendersonville

DAVID COOPER ELECTRIC

105 STONE DR
Swannanoa

Dellinger Gang Electric

653 Westside Rd
Burnsville

Delta Mechanical Inc

2486 Lawrenceville Hwy

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

Dominion Home Improvements

406 Jack St
Hendersonville

Don's Mechanical Services Inc

1667 Becky Mountain Rd
Brevard

Dreamakers LLC

347 Scarlet Oaks Dr
Etowah

Dynamic Development, Inc.

PO Box 43
Skyland

EBP ELECTRIC

4 MERCY RIDGE RD
Asheville

Electrical Swatt

7 Brookfield Dr
Candler

EnergySmith Home Performance

135 Sweeten Creek Road
Asheville

Evans Residential Electrical & Construction

168 Hungry River Rd.
Flat Rock

Everybody Needs Raymond Const. Comp., LLC

102 College Station Dr.
Brevard

Exquisite Designs

47332 Sterdley Falls

Eye On Your Home

115 N Garden Ct
Fletcher

FAIRVIEW ELECTRIC

14 HARD ROCK LN
Fairview

Fence Scapes

206 Martin Rd
Swannanoa

Fernando the Handyman

9 Eve Dr.
Asheville

Fountain Electric Services

244 Callahan-Koon Road
Spindale

FOWLER & ASSOCIATES HOME BUILDERS INC

18 Spring Hill Drive
Arden

Full Circle Construction Inc

PO Box 2619
Hendersonville

G & M Construction

P.O. Box 6561
Hendersonville

GARY MACPEEK/SKILLED HANDS

179 MARLBOROUGH RD
Asheville

General Electrical Contracting

PO Box 348
Asheville

George Pitts Electric

101 Caubleville Drive
Fletcher

Gib Gibson The Handyman Who Guarantees

385 Burnside Trl
Hendersonville

Handi-Man Services

141 Dry Creek Ridge
Hendersonville

Handy Home Helpers

Hendersonville

Harrington Electric, Inc.

8 Laurel Rd.
Arden

Hendersonville Custom Painting & Remodeling

211 Windsor Ct..
Hendersonville

Hire a Husband Handyman Services

16 Robinhood Rd
Asheville

HOME DEPOT

795 FAIRVIEW RD
Asheville

HomeSource Builders

172 Charlotte Street
Asheville

HomeSource Design Center

172 Charlotte Street
Asheville

HONEY DEW IT

540 N FORK RD
Barnardsville

HoneyDid Handyman

115 Sleepy Hollow Ln
Canton

Horizon Heating & Air Conditioning Inc

1581 N Allen Rd
Hendersonville

HUGH GILLIAM ELECTRICAL

3467 BAT CAVE RD
Old Fort

Isom Electric

3300 N. Main Street., Ste D, PMB 325

Jackson Electrical Contractors, Inc.

57 Hunter's Ridge Rd.
Mills River

Jesse Klennon

220 Mansfield Street
Hendersonville

John C Hall Electrical Contr

913 Wildlife Lake Rd
Old Fort

Jon Fedock Electrician

PO Box 2164
Leicester

K. B . Silver Construction

176 MINGUS ST.
Canton

Kaya Homebuilders LLC

103 Deaver St
Asheville

Ken Swensen

104 Sunset Hills Ct
Asheville

Kilowatt Electric llc

1313 old fort rd
Fairview

Ledford Electric

29 Foster Hill Dr
Fairview

LEE LYDA ELECTRIC INC

950 Old Fairview Rd
Asheville

Leslie's Roofing LLC

6220 Falcon Ln

Logik Lighting & Electrical

PO box 185
Alexander

Lowe's - Asheville

95 Smokey Park Hwy
Asheville

Mad Rabbit Renovations

15 Alton Way
Hendersonville

Marger's Quality Services LLC

16 Charter Glen
Asheville

MB HAYNES Corporation

187 Deaverview Rd
Asheville

McAuley Electrical Services

518 Lafayette Avenue
Asheville

MCM Wiring

29 Tsali Trail
Asheville

MERCURY ELECTRIC SERVICE

58 NICHOLS DR
Marion

Mike's Heating & Cooling

329 Dogwood Rd
Candler

NEED A HAND

1057 LONGBRANCH RD
Marshall

Nemec Construction, LLC

PO Box 300
Swannanoa

New Dimensions

Asheville

New Dream Renovations

10 Freno Dr
Asheville

Nicholson Electric Co

334 King Cir
Pisgah Forest

No Jobs Are Too Small

25 Melody Ln
Mills River

PARTRIDGE ELECTRICAL SVC INC

PO Box 1293
Lake Junaluska

Payless Plumbing

2300 Raintree Dr
Clayton

Power Plus Electrical Service Inc

60 Morning Glory Ln
Weaverville

Power Solutions

2409 Lebanon Rd
Efland

Quality Air

320 Sardis Rd
Asheville

R W JOHNSON INC

55 Smokemont Dr
Arden

Rector Electric, LLC.

940 Fisher Branch Road
Marshall

Respro Electrical LLC

PO BOX 529
Asheville

RLC Service Inc Group

103 S Bear Creek Rd
Asheville

Robert Mackey Electric

275 Brooks Cove Rd
Candler

Service Today

2001 Asheville Hwy
Hendersonville

Short Fuse Hughes Electrical

PO Box 223
Micaville

Smart Repairs

1084 North Ridge Road
Hendersonville

SOLID ROCK MASONRY

63 HOUSTON RD
Barnardsville

Spagnuolo Construction

3 Metcalf Dr
Weaverville

STEVE GILLILAND ELECTRIC

322 MELODY CIR
Swannanoa

Steven D Baldwin Electrical Contractor

69 E Mountain Way
Asheville

T's Construction and Property Preservation

111 N Mapleton Dr
East Flat Rock

The Buddha Man Handyman

16 Vance Crescent Street
Asheville

The Co Specialist Electrician

848 Ora St
Asheville

The FixIt Angel JessyLynn

140 Clarks Chapel Rd
Weaverville

The Hoff Group Technologies

8 Fox Hill Dr
Candler

TIM OWEN ELECTRIC

191 SHERWOOD RIDGE RD
Brevard

Tripp's Renovations

231 Starling Way
Hendersonville

Volt Electric USA

31 Gudger Rd
Candler

WAL CONSTRUCTION

16 HEAVENLY VIEW DR
Weaverville

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WEBB ELECTRICAL CO

PO Box 70866

Whitted Electric

PO BOX 405
Canton

WILLETT ELECTRIC

229 NEWFOUND RD
Leicester

WNC Electronic Service

11 Pineview Road
Fairview

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