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arrived on time. He finished all requested projects. Though the time allowed was 5 hours, it took 9 hours due to unforseen problems.

-CARLOS C.

A
"Work was done quickly, efficiently but then the hard sell started. He tried to sell me an upgraded light fixture that would have more than doubled what I originally" paid for the job. Then it was a bad breaker I should replace for $99, which by the way has never acted up and is still working fine without a repair. Then it was "don't you want to replace these lights." Total overkill on the hard sell. The work was done well but I don't know if I'd use him again.

-Karen H.

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Angie's Answers

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THE Cost of the recessed light is largly determinate on Where ,You purchase the product and the number you buy .Big Box dicount stores have products made oversea's that are less expensive than those found at Custom Bath & Kitchen Stores , but the products are often riddled with problems , missing parts , defects etc,

 

A typical light will run $ 35.00 to $ 85.00

 

However , the true cost of recessed lighting is involved in getting circuits or circuity to the switch and lighting system .In NEW construction , this matter is easily dealt with by installing circuits and   hardware during framing . Whereas , with remodeling , installing new lighting into existing spaces , requires wall & ceiling opening ,closure , repair , repainting & finishing

 

I have been involved in projects where the lighting cost but $500.00 ,,

while the installation & finishing costs exceeded $ 2500.00

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Here is about the same question (for 1 fan) a while back, with answer:

http://answers.angieslist.com/how-cost-install-ceiling-fan-ceiling-light-exists-q46721.aspx

Your total cost could be from 1.5-3 times that shown in the answer, depending on how much of the wiring for the three fans he can combine - i.e. can he easily run one power circuit for all 3 fans, then just tap off that for switches and runs to the fans, are they fans only or with lights (double the wiring and switches), etc. Note the costs do NOT include drywall/panelling repair or painting to match. Also, you are going to be near the top end of the estimates, because in all probability your access is poor, and 3 fans are almost certain to require a totally new run from the breaker box.

Unless you have an open exposed-joist attic above where the fans are to go AND the top of the walls the switches will go in, you can expect substantial holes in walls and ceiling to pull the wires and fasten them - by code, you cannot just pull wires between joist and let them lie on the top of the ceiling drywall - you have to staple them to joists every few feet, so you end up with several 1-2 foot holes typically near top of the wall (to drill through top plate), near side of ceiling to grab and bend wire coming up wall, and maybe one mid-ceiling to reach in and fasten wire, then of course the two openings that are ultimately fully concealed by the switch plate and the fan mounting plate or dome.

Before you get into this project I would check with the condo management if you are allowed to do this - there are limits to how much you can modify your condo and how much you can modify or add in the way of electric circuits.

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Ahhhh - the light bulb comes on - but I didn't see the rabbit - it must have made it down the hole. Was I right about you upgrading the bulbs from a lower wattage, and that is when they started going out ?

 

I seriously doubt it is the track, from what you say and especially since the one head works fine at various places along the track. My guess - because these are apparently 110V track but 12V transformer INSIDE the head that mounts to the track, I would say it is the transformer overheating - a VERY common thing with modern electronics and cheap transformers from China. Commonly they have a thermal protector that cuts out when overheated, but overheating 2 or 3 times is normally fatal for them. I bet the transformers have fried, and that even the ones still working are smoked and probably have deformed plastic around them.

 

The unit is rated to 75W max, and the bulbs you have are 75W and of a design that provides little airflow around them (zero if you are using the glass cover plates for the heads) and has a lot of heat in the upper portion of it - in my opinion just another dumb design. I will give 10:1 odds there are not air holes in the top of the heads either - UL should ban that practice. 

 

Personally, if it were all new I would return it all for my money back right off. Since the track and some heads are old and you are invested in them already, I would gather up receipts and eMail the manufacturer about the issue, and the number of heads that have gone out (old and new combined) and see what they say. I would suspect they will offer to at least send replacements if you send the receipts and bad heads. I would then return any unused bulbs for credit to wherever you got them, and get different bulbs. You will have to ask the manufacturer if the transformer circuitry can handle MR16 GU5.3 base LED bulbs - Amazon has them, if your heads can take them - will run a LOT cooler. Otherwise, 50 Watt Halogen bulbs should fit and might run cool enough to not overheat ?

 

With transformers in the heads, I would use LED bulbs if compatible with transformer and circuitry.

 

BTW - you did not say if you tried the "dead" bulbs in the "good" heads - my guess (do just a short test) is they will work, and the bulbs are not the problem at all - it is the transformers.

 

Your other option. and what I would do unless you are attached to this style fixture or it is mounted to ceiling permanently and you do not know how to change it (or don't want to), so would cost about $125 for an electrician to come out: is to get what you can in refund from the manufacturer (or distributor, if they have good defect return policy), scrap the whole system, and save a LOT of money in the long run on energy costs by going to a 120V CFL or LED bulb system. Use LED if this is a short-term use system, or CFL only if one that will be on for many hours at a time - they burn out quick in frequent short use applications, but go seems like forever in long term use. I have one 60W (equivalent) GE CFL that I use as a nightlight but stays on 24/365 and has been on continuously for over 4 years without burning out. A number of identical ones we tried in applications where they were only on for a few minutes at a time went back under warranty after in a few months. If you are looking for a true "spot" light, then I recommend LED anyway, unless you don't like their "artificial" light.

 

Here is the info sheet on your unit, with company contact info at bottom:

http://www.noralighting.com/uploads/specs/NTL-202_2202.pdf

?

Depends a tremendous amount on access - if accessible from exposed-joist in attic above, then you might get this for about $300-500 or so for the wiring and installation, plus $200-400 for the materials and dimmer switches, plus the cost of the light fixtures themselves. Probably about $100-150 to repair ceiling if single hole for one fixture, to $200-300 if existing trough-type flourescent fixtures. Painting the repair could be $100 - 250 depending on whether he can match the patch, or has to repaint the entire ceiling to get a uniform effect - which is more common in kitchens, which usually have untextured ceilings and gloss paint. Another alternative it is have the hole patched and prime and plain paint it yourself, then cover the area with a decorative emblem or crest to avoid having to repaint the whole ceiling. Personally I would just put a compatible style fixture in its place, which you might or might not choose to use, so you avoid the cost of repairing the hole and painting entirely, as that is "lost" $.

If the kitchen/dining room ceiling is not accessible from above, then the electrician will have to tear into wall and ceilings, so installation labor might go to $400-600, and drywall reapir and painting probably to about $400-600, depending on how many holes the elecrtrician has to put in and assuming entire surface painting to get a uniform paint look on each disturbed wall or ceiling.

One possibility for savings might be low voltage lighting for some of the kithcen fixtures, which might reduce your wiring cost and number of holes if you do not have attic access.

Be careful on the dimmable LED bulbs - be aware that dimmable bulbs generally cost a lot more, and many brands don't perform well in dimming mode because they are designed to run at a constant voltage, and a lot will not dim past about 40% power before they flick out or start flickering. Some will actually fry the electronics and burn up at lower voltage. Also, there are three different types of dimmers and different bulbs need a different type dimmer switch, so you will have to be careful to always buy the right type bulb, and use all the same type bulb in a given circuit. Here is an article on the types of problmes you can have with LED dimming, even with bulbs designed to be dimmed -

http://www.lutron.com/en-US/Education-Training/Pages/LCE/DimmingCFLsandLEDs.aspx

Lighting Installation reviews in Waveland

A

Rating
Rich the electrician arrived promptly, reviewed the issues with me and performed desired work. Impressed that Rich brought parts that he thought he might need for the job as he understood it which saved time. Appreciate that he took the time to explain the new timer to me.
- Robin M.
A

Rating
Waveland Lighting Companies Provider Name Locked
impressed me right away by showing me my disposal didn't need replacing but was just jamed. He gave me the list of jobs he could do and asked what else I had - and he was able to take care of two other jobs I needed done.
- Patricia R.
A

Rating
I needed to light a paved walkway on the side of the house, at night. I researched a bit about the different lighting options and bought 2 different kinds from Home Depot. I bought the Big Deal from
Waveland Lighting Companies Provider Name Locked
and typed in my preferred dates during the purchasing process. Got an email a day later and I was able to schedule for the work to be done the next day! It was awesome.
Waveland Lighting Companies Provider Name Locked
, the electrician called before going to the house and he was right on time. When he arrived, both he and his co worker took off their shoes when entering the house, without me asking. They were both very professional and courteous from the get go. I presented the two lights that I bought and he gave me his professional opinion on it, which I agreed with. I also had 3 other items on my electrical to do list that he gave me a good estimate on. In the end, I decided just to get the security light done today and he was totally fine with it, no pressure on me to buy the other services, which I thought was refreshing and really appreciated. His coworker (sorry I didn't get his name or card) even had time to change a light in a room for me. This was a great experience overall!
- angela C.
A

Rating
They were great.
Waveland Lighting Companies Provider Name Locked
and his wife were on time everyday. They took time to listen to my needs and made suggestions. Could not be the price for the work done. House had Knob and tub through out, they took care of it. Very happy.
- Adrian P.
F

Rating
I called
Waveland Lighting Companies Provider Name Locked
because one of the sensors on my landscape lights went out and they were the Electric Company who initially put in the timer.
I spoke to
Waveland Lighting Companies Provider Name Locked
or
Waveland Lighting Companies Provider Name Locked
and he said he would have someone call me for an appointment. Didn't hear from them.
I called back the following week and was "going to be put on the schedule." Nope - didn't happen
Called again and was given same line - to date - have never heard from
Waveland Lighting Companies Provider Name Locked
...
Disappointed - I like to deal with local tradesmen and women -
- Carole A.
A

Rating
Arrived on time with short notice (2 hrs). Fixed all problems, took a lot of testing to find and fix problems. Included chandeliers, fans, outside fixture lights.
- Judson M.
A

Rating
It went very well. The only negative was that they didn't have tarps to cover the area, but we covered it ourselves. They cleaned up all the insulation everything looked as good when they left as when they arrived. They were very knowledgeable people in fact I inquired about adding a dimmer switch and they explained to me why its not possible for my situation.
- Carolyn B.
A

Rating
Great!!! Our living room had zero light when we moved into our house. Saw they were running a deal for lighting and jumped on it. The guys came the following day and had the job done in a few hours. Installed 9 lights on a dual dimmer switch. We have really enjoyed the lighting since.
- Alex P.

Lighting Companies in Waveland, MS

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

ADONAI ELECTRIC

Rabbit Run
Diamondhead

AG Electric LLC

1060 Park Ct N
Biloxi

Arnold Electric

817 Murphy St
Gulfport

Bishop Electric

6001 Beach Bayou Blvd
Biloxi

Bottom Line LED Signs

1012 E Main Street
Philadelphia

Classic Copper Works

9337 Spring Cypress Rd

Coastal Home maintenence and Remodeling

432 7th St
Bay Saint Louis

Collectors-Outlet

76 Pulaski St

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

Dirty Works Services, LLC

309 N Jackson Street
Poplarville

e.t.electric

10105 tucker rd.

Favre Electric

613 Gladstone St
Waveland

Laura's Designs

405 East Mission Street

Livewire Electrical Solutions LLC

18521 Old Hwy 49
Saucier

MillerCo Inc.

14376 County Farm Road
Gulfport

Power Plus Electrical Contractors LLC

23130 Saucier Lizana Road

Preferred Performance

6516 Mariposa Lane
Vancleave

Solarian US

2617 Saint Davids Lane

Tech Home

2301 N Highway 190

Terrell Construction

1302 Waverly Drive
Bay Saint Louis

Terrell Construction and Flooring

1302 Waverly Drive
Bay Saint Louis

WEBB ELECTRICAL CO

PO Box 70866

WorkHard Construction

12413 John Lee Rd
Biloxi

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