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A
"He was responsible, respectful and professional. He was able to almost accomplish everything we had hoped that he would be able to do in the day, and will follow" up generously with us for the final small things.

-Miriam B.

A
"The staff was very prompt in returning the calls and scheduled the service within 24-48 hours. Arrived to perform the inspection in time and also arranged a rapid" repair on the spot. The needed re-wiring of sub-panel was completed the same afternoon once the diagnose was done. It is amazing how fast they could get to the spot and resolve issues. Their response after the service was prompt too. Will recommend to others.

-kelly L.

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Local Articles in Raymore

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Electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person.

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Angie's Answers

?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?
Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

?

The amperage is the rated power it can handle. Modern houses are generally built with 200 amp panels, and a lot of the newer ones are going 300-350 amps as more and more electronic devices and fancy and high-demand kitchen devices and increased lighting are used in homes.

Both are just as safe - the 200 amp one will just have many more breaker slots, allowing way more circuits, and providing more room for expansion in the future, especially for power-hungry things like shop tools. Each uses only as much electricity as is used in the circuits - the panel itself does not consume any electricity, so no long-term impact there. It is just a circuit connection box where the individual circuits are connected, with circuit protectors (breakers) in line before it connects to the main line to your electric usage meter.

Unless you are real tight on money on this job, I would upgrade to 200 amps capacity - the incremental cost is about $100-200 or so over the 100 amp panel. If your incoming power line cannot handle 200 amps, you could install a 100 amp main breaker to keep the power company happy but put in the 200 amp breaker panel, so in the future a main line upgrade could be done with only a main disconnect breaker upgrade of $100 or so, without having to change anything inside the house.

Having the larger panel, especially if 200 amp capacity all the way from the meter, can be a selling point (or rather, lack of a negative point) to a potential buyer with lots of electronics or who is into shop power tools. It would also facilitate conversion to electric heat / water heating if someone wanted to do that.

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

?

An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

Electrician reviews in Raymore

A

Rating
The work was excellent. and his assistant were on time and professional. The responsiveness to our request for the work required was fantastic. Appointment options were provided to get the work done. made sure that the original work would be done promptly, the next day, by stopping at our house in ...More the afternoon on his way home from work. Had the job done withing an hour. Fantastic!!!
- Michael M.
A

Rating
The original electrician assigned could not come at scheduled time due to a family emergency, but the company called to let us know the situation and offered to send another electrician working in our area at a later time in the same day. We were agreeable.
Electrician arrived at scheduled time, but didn't have a dimmer switch, because he ...More wasn't the original assigned electrician and didn't know what parts were needed. He offered to go their electrical supplier (if they were open, which they were - barely) and obtain the necessary dimmer switch.
Switch was replaced without any issues. He also looked at the bathroom exhaust fan, and said that the heater was actually not working, and there wasn't anything more he could do unless / until I purchased a new fan.
My "price" concern is with the charge for troubleshooting, which is in the neighborhood of $300, even though it seemed to require only about 15 minutes! They seem to have set amounts they charge for certain services, which can be a value, or not, to the homeowner. I ended up paying for the $88 value package (which presumably gave me $200+ value in work) plus another $21 for the service. Considering this included the switch, and he was maybe at my house for a total of an hour, that is probably typical...not any great value.
He also spent a fair amount of time describing other services I could purchase, but there was no high pressure or anything.
All in all, they were reliable, trustworthy and they stand behind their work, just need to get a good understanding of the charges to expect for the work you are having them perform.
- VICTORIA V.
A

Rating
Work was of high quality and was completed promptly without any surprises. Crew worked very closely with the cabinet installer planning ahead each day. They were very attentive and cleaned up the work place each day, no mess was left behind. Everything was explained in detail and our questions/concerns were answered patiently as the project progressed. ...More Price seemed fair and very competitive with other estimates I got for this job. Overall, we were very pleased with the final product and would love to use them again for future projects.
- Nicolae B.
A

Rating
sent out 2 workers to check out why we were experiencing an electrical when in our shower. It was diagnosed that we needed a grounding wire attached to our water line.
- Bob B.
A

Rating
was able to track down the root cause of 4 light switches that were
not working. It was an unusual cause linked to a switch that was
working. It took a lot of checking the electrical system. House wired in
a strange way when built. But, he solved the problem! was quick
to respond ...More and fit us in his schedule. This is the second time we have retained for our needs. Will use him again.
- Barbara F.
A

Rating
Great work - clean, professional, and prompt. They gave an estimate on the phone and it was less expensive than anticipated.
- Dan P.
A

Rating
Upon requesting service, Nick was very quick to respond to my questions and walked me through the pricing for the service. His technicians arrived on time, were willing to explain their work, etc. I did have a wall switch that went to an unknown location, and after some investigating the technician admitted that re-wiring the switch to the light would ...More require a smaller/more nimble technician to navigate the very tight attic space. Overall, however, the rest of the work was completed in a timely manner and to the quality promised. I would call them again for sure.

- Tim S.
A

Rating
was extremely professional and did a great job. It wasn't going to be easy but he worked quickly and efficiently to get it done. We would definitely use him again!
- Kelly D.

Electricians in Raymore, MO

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

"KCS" Kansas City Sunrooms, Room Additions

7900 NW 100th Street
Kansas City

221 Construction LLC

1050 W Innovation Dr
Kearney

A & S Solutions

Kansas City

A B SERVICES INC

3707 N 83RD ST

A GOOD ELECTRICIAN INC

13301 E MEADOW DR
Peculiar

A W B HANDY HANDS RESOURCES

7212 S BENTON
Kansas City

A&R HOME SERVICES LLC

P.O. BOX 162
Raymore

Aarons Services

PO Box 24085
Kansas City

AB Electrical, Inc.- Electrical and Construction

3336 Paseo Boulevard
Kansas City

AB May

7100 E 50th St
Kansas City

ABB & Baldor Great Plains

9810 Industrial Blvd

Absolute Home Renovation

8825 Bond Street

ACCESSIBLE ELECTRIC INC

PO Box 1567
Blue Springs

Accurate Dimensions Construction LLC

233 S.W. Greenwich Drive
Lees Summit

AD'S TEAM ELECTRIC, LLC.

9407 Fairwood Dr
Kansas City

ADVANCE AUDIO-VIDEO

3031 S 23RD CIR

Advanced Gutters and Remodeling LLC

1215 SW Hampton Ct
Grain Valley

Affordable Energy Solutions

4445 NE Blue Jay Drive
Lees Summit

Affordable Solutions Inc

Rt. 1 box 255 P
Adrian

All Metro Construction

310 N Withers Rd Apt G
Liberty

Allegiant Service Group, Inc.

517 N SCOTT AVE
Belton

Allen's Handyman

15543 S Shannan Ln

Amiel Hillman

6239 N Mercier St
Kansas City

Amp Electric

7615 mission Road

Andy OnCall

Greater Kansas City Area
Grandview

Anthony Weir Plumbing & Remodel LLC

8404 E 105th St
Kansas City

ARROW CIRCLE ELECTRIC INC

7801 BLUERIGDE BLVD
Kansas City

Asap Hvac LLC

309 Hill St
Belton

Ault Design and Construction

1212 SE Broadway Dr
Lees Summit

Awesome Wood Creations

106 NW 67th St
Kansas City

B & B ELECTRIC

822
Lees Summit

B&J Textures

11201 Orchard
Kansas City

BANNER ELECTRIC

1713 E Stagecoach Dr

Barber Construction

10007 E 211th St
Peculiar

Barnds Companies

10000 W 135 St

Barnhart Security Inc

1503 Main St.
Grandview

Bedford Electrical

1413 SW 500 Rd.
Holden

Bennett Home Improvement & Building

708 NW R D Mize Rd
Blue Springs

Big Show Remodeling

602 NE 66th Terrace
Kansas City

bigFIX

2212 w 48th ter

Brackmann Construction Inc

1418 N Scott Ave
Belton

BRINTON ELECTRIC

10100B E 65th St
Kansas City

CABINET CLAD OF KANSAS CITY INC

807 NW HUNTER DRIVE
Blue Springs

CANDLELIGHT ELECTRIC INC

907 S STATE ROUTE J
Peculiar

Candler Gamm Heating and Cooling and Electrical

6435 Coventry Avenue
Kansas City

Carbon Designwork

16342 south Olathe

CG HISHAW CONSTRUCTION INC

P.O. BOX 140462
Kansas City

Champion Remodeling LLC

15900 Hight Ave
Belton

CHASE ELECTRICAL SERVICES

6925 NW BERKLEY
Kansas City

Christopher C. Hedges, LLC

P.O. Box 10368
Kansas City

CINEMA AT HOME

14687 S. Constance St.

CLAYCO ELECTRIC CO

319 E 11TH AVE
Kansas City

Clint Edmonson

3622 Park Ave
Kansas City

Controlled Home Technologies

105 SE Noeleen Ln
Lees Summit

Coppnet Communication LLC

1628 North Corrington
Kansas City

Coulston Construction

6400 N Spruce Ave
Kansas City

Countryside Home Repairs

620 N Forest
Sugar Creek

CPC Appliance Repair

6221 Webster Ave

Craig Packham

2013 Cypress Way
Pleasant Hill

Custom Christmas Lighting

230 NE Chateau Dr
Blue Springs

Custom Home Services

37403 E Pink Hill Rd
Oak Grove

Daniel_Williamson Remodeling

11223 Bristol Terrace
Kansas City

Dean the Granite Guy

11501 Conser St

Deckadence

9006 W 121st Ter

Donco Electric

11184 Antioch

DONE RIGHT CONTRACTING

7668 Norwood St

Donohue's Lightning Rods

501 N Las Vegas Trail

DOTec Engineering Corp

424 Jefferson St
Saint Charles

Dynamic Porch & Patio

3300 Blue Ridge Cutoff
Independence

E & C Remodeling, LLC

12400 Holmes Rd
Kansas City

E=IR Electric, LLC

2182 W Elm St

EandR Power Solutions

2422 Harvard Ave
Independence

Electrician Kansas City

435 Nichols Road
Kansas City

FAB ELECTRIC & TRENCHING LLC

8306 E 235TH ST
Peculiar

Farm and Home Builders Inc

234 NW Plaza Dr
Riverside

Fatboy Electric Inc

11515 Hickman Mills Dr
Kansas City

Ferguson Incorporated

14302 S Alden Ct

Ferwalt Construction

421 N Boardman St
Pleasant Hill

First General Services of Kansas City

708 NW R.D. Mize Road Suite J
Blue Springs

FOXYCOXYLLC

P.O. Box 542
Lexington

Fred The Handyman, LLC

504 Oak Drive
Raymore

Free Energy

605 N High St
Independence

Freedom Electric Professionals Inc

1017 W 29TH ST
Kansas City

FRENCH REMODELING

PO BOX 18096
Kansas City

G & H ELECTRIC

13926 W 108th Street

GEORGE ELECTRIC INC

19015 S SCHOOL RD
Raymore

GFI Renovations, LLC

18921 E Valley View Pkwy.
Independence

GIL'S ELECTRIC

18821 S SCHOOL RD
Raymore

Grandfield Mobile Home Service

PO Box 250
Warrensburg

Green Lighting Services, LLC

1109 South Clairborne

Grounded Electric

Kansas City

GT ELECTRIC/GARY TOOMBS

1118 E 76TH ST
Kansas City

H&C Construction LLC

3513 s maybrook ave

HALLMARK STONE CO

2200 CASSENS DR
Fenton

Hallowell Contracting

9936 Slevin Ln
Saint Louis

Handyman Barrett LLC

19419 Bryn Mawr Dr
Independence

Handyman Unlimited

809 SW Oldham Prkwy.
Lees Summit

Hardee electric

419 w cambridge
Belton

Harrisonville Electric LLC

1402 Sanders St
Harrisonville

Heiman Development Co Inc

635 E 117th Ter
Kansas City

Hemenway Home Improvements LLC

23513 West 58th Street

Heritage Exterior Design LLC

124 N Prairie Street
Liberty

Hi-Tech Electric, Inc.

1524 NE 99th Street
Kansas City

Higher Power

214 se Brentwood dr
Lees Summit

Home Maintenance Solutions

2705 West 120th Place

Homes by Nick

7590 High Dr

Homeworks

14480 W 187 TH TER

HQ Services

PO Box 8585
Kansas City

Huber Electric

205 SKY VUE DR
Raymore

Ideal Electrical Services

607 NE Applewood St
Lees Summit

Impact Electrical Solutions LLC

915 W Richwood Dr
Blue Springs

Infinity Home Innovations

7905 N Broadway Ave
Kansas City

INTEGRATED ELECTRONICS

660 North Lindenwood Dr

Irwin Electric LLC

5816 Merriam Dr

JADE ALARM CO

7636 TROOST AVE
Kansas City

Jason Wright Electric

PO Box 218
Lees Summit

Jay-Lee Construction

25310 S State Route K
Harrisonville

JB Remodeling

8408 spring valley

JC Casazza Rehab & Remodeling Co.

6347 NW 49th ST
Kansas City

JIMCO TECH INC

1220 E STATE ROUTE 58
Raymore

JMS Tile

315 SE Jackson St

JT Complete LLC

12111 W 66th St

Jurassic Construction

5208 Harris Ave
Kansas City

Justin Hatfield Contracting

10119 E 79th Terrace
Kansas City

K & G Home Renovations

5031 Lees Summit RD
Kansas City

K.E. Smith construction

8631 N. Kansas Ave.
Kansas City

Kansas City Power Washing & Home Repairs

4140 Prospect Ave.
Kansas City

KC Controls LLC Heating and Cooling

2436 NW Shadybend
Lees Summit

KC Metro Renovations

58 T Street
Lee's Summit

KC Solar LLC

115 Vamo Rd

Kelly Reed Contracting

8642 Melrose St

KLH ELECTRIC

1222 SW HILLSBORO DR
Grain Valley

KR Lamming Electric LLC

4319 Washington Ave
Independence

LED lighting Shop LLC

PO Box 520186
Independence

Lee's Auto Service

9914 W 62nd Terrace

LRB CONSTRUCTION & REMODEL LLC

109 14TH AVE N
Greenwood

LUCAS ELECTRIC, LLC

517 MARGARET LN
Belton

Lumberjack Construction Inc.

9431 Somerset Drive

Malnar Remodeling

7415 stearns

mark yancik construction co

508 nw manor dr
Blue Springs

MARTIN'S CONTRACTING

4915 NW 88TH TER
Kansas City

Max's Mechanical

3945 Main St

Measure Twice Restoration LLC

8011 Paseo Blvd.
Kansas City

MEL Contracting

1040 NW S Outer Rd
Blue Springs

METRO INSTALLATION

1414 E Meadow Brook Dr
Raymore

Midwest Custom Electric

305 N. Jefferson

MO-KAN HANDYMAN LLC

1405 W 12TH ST
Kansas City

MOKAN HANDYMAN SERVICES

1413 W 11st
Kansas City

Morehead Electric

2201 SW Newton Circle
Blue Springs

MORNINGSTAR ELECTRIC LLC.

PO BOX 107
Oak Grove

Mr. Fix It's Home Improvement

4627 NE 42nd St
Kansas City

Mr. Handyman of Lee Summit

5 SW Industrial Dr.
Lee Summit

Olympus Remodeling

5227 leavenworth rd

OnHome Systems, LLC

510 SW Mission RD
Lees Summit

Patrick Murphy

9322 Farley Ln

Peak Electric

2205 NW 65th Street
Kansas City

Phillips Power

26207 Wolcott rd

PHM Facility Services

9500 E 63rd St
Kansas City

PMI MIDWEST

18175W156THST

PORTER ELECTRICAL

1012 N STATE ROUTE 7
Pleasant Hill

Precision Custom Homes, LLC

103 NE 114th St
Kansas City

Premier Home Repairs

27519 S Tieman Rd
Harrisonville

Premiere Custom Designs

20040 Edgerton Rd

Prestige Electrical Contractors, LLC

1808 N Commercial St
Harrisonville

PRG2 CONSULTING

2505 CREDAR CREST AVE
Independence

Pro Paving & Sealcoating

1217 Nw Scenic Dr Grain Valley
Grain Valley

Projectquote LLC

7123 west 95th street

Quality Electrical Service,LLC

PO BOX 270623
Kansas City

R & B Repair, LLC

311 N. High Drive
Odessa

R P Electric

610 SE 49 Pvt Rd
Osceola

R&L DO IT ALL

13216 WINCHESTER
Grandview

R.A. Richmond Electric Company

18709 E. 13th Terr. Ct. N.
Independence

RAMPART SECURITY

306 EAST ST
Kansas City

REASONABLE REMODELING

3721 S HOCKER
Independence

REGARDING KITCHENS

1736 E Harold St

Remodel Inc

23701 E Cowherd Rd
Lees Summit

RENT A MUSCLE INC

205 W CALICO DR
Raymore

REO Home Services LLC

408 E College St
Odessa

Reynolds Integrated Systems

1009 W 17th Street
Kansas City

Rock Creek Roofing and Construction

525 NE Bristol Dr
Lees Summit

Rocktech - Rockhill Electric

1422 LARKSPUR CIR
Kansas City

Royal Craftsmen

6223 NW Caney Creek Dr.
Kansas City

SafeHouse Contracting

8407 NE 110th Ter
Kansas City

Sampson Construction

PO Box 103
Dearborn

Segers Properties LLC.

7221 Troost Ave.
Kansas City

SERVICE KC

1301 N NELSON RD

Service pros

5147 n Richmond ace
Kansas City

Shogren electric

16307 246th

SITES ELECTRIC HEATING & COOLING

603 E FEWEL AVE
Leeton

Solid Ground Remodeling

PO Box 232
Grandview

Steve's Home Repair

18475 Canterbury Court

STEVE'S SUPERIOR HOME REPAIRS

22914 s state route D
Cleveland

Stokes Public Adjusters

16470 S. Laurelwood Street

Suburban Home Services

312 E. 78th Terrace
Kansas City

Sunrise Electric

1208 Dogwood Dr
Greenwood

Systems Plus LLC

15033 W 145th Terrace

T&C Fire and Security Systems

4267 Milam Rd
Bates City

TANN ELECTRIC

13216 West 99th Street

Te-Tee Light Electrical Services

5305 Lewis Ave
Kansas City

TEC Electrical Contracting LLC

8500 N Eastern ave
Kansas City

TECH POWER SYSTEMS, INC.

PO Box 5827
Kansas City

The Hayes Company

1000 E 11th St
Kansas City

The Neighborhood Handyman

6900 COLLEGE BLVD

The Repair Shop

101 Gore Road
Raymore

TLC Construction & Dev. Inc.

106 SW. Rosehill Rd.
Lone Jack

TNG Field Services

PO Box 410352
Kansas City

Tool Time Home Improvement, Inc.

917 Timbercreek Court
Belton

TOP NOTCH TEAROUTS

713 SW ADMIRAL BYRD DR
Lees Summit

total home service

1941 N 45th St

Town & Country Electric

1206 Lee Ln
Raymore

Trendsetter Homes & Reodeling

8115 Shawnee Mission Prkwy

TRUSTED HOME IMPROVEMENT LLC

PO BOX 22758
Kansas City

TUCKER ELECTRIC

p.o. box 7191
Kansas City

Ultimate Group LLP

309 West 39th st.
Kansas City

United Communication Services

P.O. Box 28024
Kansas City

Urban Electrical & Design LP

4216 N Spruce Ave
Kansas City

Uttley Construction

120 S Darrowby Dr
Raymore

WALKER'S Home Repair

9516 Linwood
Independence

Walter Klammer

Kansas City

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

We Connect Electric

1429 Indiana
Kansas City

William McKeone Construction

244 NE Dreamweaver Ave.

World's Best LEDs

1113 NW Hawk Creek Cr
Blue Springs

Wyetec LLC

Kansas City

YOUNG CONSTRUCTION CO

3818 HIGHLAND AVE
Kansas City

Young Remodeling

2517 Jefferson St.
Kansas City

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