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Over 11,278 reviews for
Independence Insulation Contractors from people just like you.

A
"Found leak in ventilation system that was causing spots on ceiling, but doesn't do ventilation work. Recommended additional insulation to bring attic to Energy" Department recommendation. Gave price for additional insulation. Was honest in telling me that if planning to sell house in four or five years, would not recommend because would not be able to recoup investment. Also advised that buyers probably don't care about R value of insulation but do care about utility costs.

-CONSTANCE J.

F
"Work performed was fine. Workers were really friendly. Customer service from the boss was absolutely terrible. After they finished the job there was a bunch" of insulation left in our garage - which is not a big deal at all - but it was unclear about whether they were finished or not. I hadn't received any contact whatsoever even though I had left my number with the workers. My wife called and was told by someone that there was potentially a water leak somewhere. Later in the day she received a rude voice mail from the boss demanding payment. I then ended up playing phone tag with the boss (
?) for two days, but when I finally got him on the line he was RIDICULOUSLY RUDE, yelling in my ear demanding payment and threatening to hire a debt collector and take me to court, all while refusing to even hear why we hadn't sent the check yet. I have never in my life dealt with an adult so childish. He accused me of leaving the house on purpose to escape paying on site (sorry I don't have multiple hours to sit around at the house on a WORK DAY waiting for them to finish!) and of screening his phone calls - even though every time I had missed a call I had called him back and he hadn't picked up either. And keep in mind that this was the FIRST time I was hearing that the job was actually completed, and it was still less than a week after they had done the job anyway. I hope I just caught this one guy at a rough time in his life, but if this is common practice for this business it's pitiful. Unfortunately, I won't be using them again to find out.

-Gabe N.

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Local Articles in Independence

Avoid ice dams with proper attic insulation

Do you have icicles forming on your eaves and gutters and ice collecting on your roof? An ice dam can cause serious problems without proper insulation.

By properly insulating your attic you can keep warm air from escaping and save money on your energy bills. (Photo courtesy of Vinay S. of North Brunswick, New Jersey)
Insulation

Hot air rises … but good insulation can keep your energy costs from doing the same thing.

Better air quality, quieter living spaces, comfort and better health are all reasons to reconsider your insulation choices. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Roseanne J. of Seattle)
Insulation

Not just for new construction, learn how foam insulation can be placed inside existing walls to make your home more comfortable.

While traditional fiberglass insulation is affordable and efficient, injection foam insulation can offer even more benefits. (Photo by Summer Galyan)
Insulation

Insulation isn't sexy, but it can keep you cool at night.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

Angie's Answers

?

If you go the Better Business Bureau website you can see that the company has only had two complaints in the last 18 months and that they have both been resolved.  The company has an A+ rating.  This is not something you can buy.

 

There are genuine reviews on many 3rd party online review sites including AngiesList and the Better Business Bureau.  Simply do a Google search for "Smart Energy Today Reviews".

 

Sol Blanket Insulation acts as a radiant barrier, insulation and a vapor barrier.  It is not intended to replace traditional insulation but in fact compliments it and adds to it's ability to keep cool/hot air (depending on the season) in the home when the envelope of the home is properly sealed.  

 

Every attic is different and there are many other components that must be considered.  You mentioned an attic fan as well.  The heat that is radiated away from the ceiling by the Sol-Blanket Insulation is pushed out of the attic with an attic fan.  The US Department of Energy states that radiant barriers do work and suggest they be installed by professionals.

 

As with any product by any company if the product is not installed properly and other factors (attic fan, caulking and sealing, etc...) are not addressed then it will not be as effective.

?

A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.

?

Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

?
Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
?

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake

?

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Insulation reviews in Independence

D

Rating
Service was completed as expected with punctuality. In less than a year we found ourselves in exactly the same rodent situation, same symptoms. Called them again to come out and they recommended doing the exact same service except this time with an addition $500 for extermination. They offered a 10% returning customer discount.
We let them know we were dissatisfied with the previous work because we had spent quite a bit of money assuming they were able to take care of the problem. They refused to discount the work or provide any explanation as to why we should expect any different results this time around. Hard to justify having them do the same work again, especially when you know they don't appear willing to stand by their work if it doesn't fix the issue.
- Matthew A.
A

Rating
Went good. Wish they would have covered up my furniture that was currently in the garage so the overspray would not be all over my couches because there were ceiling panels missing in my garage area. They covered up the area somewhat but wasn't enough to prevent from the overspray. Outside of that, product done as promised and very prompt on everything. Guys were knowledgeable and provided some helpful tips to help provide more air flow to the attic. I will probably go with them for insulation as well based on the quoted price I received.
- Daniel B.
B

Rating
We are conflicted about how to review
Independence Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
. On the one hand, the work was well done, but on the other hand there were serious issues with project management that made this experience a lot more stressful than promised! We were able to schedule the attic cleanup within a week of obtaining our second estimate (an increase of 1000 over the estimate we received during the winter, as a sort of summer fee and price raise, according to our technician). Our technician seemed knowledgeable, but there were some issues with how the actual cleanup was handled.
The day of the cleanup the crew arrived promptly, and our technician walked the project manager through what we needed to have done--the main attic, the other part of the attic separated by a hallway, and the attic areas around the finished main room. We had sorted through the items in the attic to streamline the cleaning process, and left the debris in the main attic room. Within the first 2 hours, the project manager became ill. Only after this did the workers put on protective gear. Because the project manager was no longer working, a member of the team stepped up to take his place. Unfortunately, our technician seems to have not clearly explained what areas of the attic were included in the estimate, because at the end of the day, when the de facto project manager walked us through, we realized that the smaller attic spaces had not been cleaned. They were great about rescheduling to finish the work within a few days, and returned to finish the job. We were really happy with the cleanup, the workers did a good job and finished promptly.
There were two main issues we had with this job. First, our technician tried to ask us to pay more for the unfinished job telling us that he would have trouble paying for the equipment and labor that another day on the job would cost. He worked out the issue with his office, but this was a stressful interlude, while we waited to see if they would finish the work for the original estimate.
Secondly, several days after the work was completed, we realized that they had mistaken a gutter hole for an entrance and pumped it full of insulation foam. It was a bit of a hassle to pick out enough foam to let the water drain.
Minor issues included the stripping of varnish from a door when the carpet was removed, and a chip in the wooden paneling of the finished attic room during the vacuuming process.
We would definitely consider going to
Independence Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
again if we had attic issues, we would just make sure to check in a lot more on what was being done, and that everyone was on the same page.
- Martine M.
B

Rating
I bought this house in Feb and am using this room as a kennel room for my 3 dogs. It was quite hot in there with the old insulation.The room gets the afternoon sun until dark exposure. It is an AMAZING difference with the spray foam in. I rarely use the window a/c in the evenings when I bring the dogs in, and if I do, it's just for an hour to make sure the dogs are comfy. Before, I had to have the a/c on for at least 3 hours and it did NOT cool down the room, and the celing had ABSOLUTELY no insulation in it when they tore it out. It was hard to get the drywall people and spray foam company to work in tandem. Something that I expected to take one week to complete ended up taking 3 weeks, because the subs that did the drywall did not come back and finish the job right away completely. In the future, I will not pay in full until all work is complete, my bad. Or I will hire my own drywall workers.
Independence Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and his team diid an amazing job and would hire them back for future work, which I will probably need in the future to sound proof part of my basement. Also, I was not there initially when they started the work, and they went ahead and cleared the room, took down the blinds, etc, which is not something they usually do. They were running ahead of schedule time-wise, so they came early and decided to start.

- Cathy B.
A

Rating
Forrest was extremely responsive. I called and he was able to come by, I believe, the next day to an energy audit to determine why my electric bill was outrageous and the temperature varied throughout the house. Right away he determined there was virtually no insulation in the attic (easier said than done considering the dark, 3 ft crawl space filled with giant metal ducts) except what was left from the original install in 1975. I was able to schedule to have the work done in about 5 days. I'm not sure if the price was good or not but I really liked Forrest and he was available to get the work done ASAP...that made it the right price! He and his crew arrived when they said they would, blew in the insulation, mended ducts, expelled all the critters in the attic, and replaced the broken booster fan blocking the air going to the opposite end of the house. I also texted Forrest Friday with concerns that there was hot air coming out of the vent when the AC wasn't on, he said he could be there the next day to check it out. He showed up when he said he would, determined that coincidently, I walked under the vent right when the AC turned on and all the hot air was being pushed from the duct. There was no issues other than my bad timing. I will continue to use this company for everything and anything they can provide that I need in the future.

- Erin M.
A

Rating
the work was great they were fast and the job was done correctly and walked me through everything he just put so much effort into making sure the job was done correctly.
- steven J.
A

Rating
They arrived on time and were finished with the job at the promised time. They put down some tarp near the hatch to catch some of the stray insulation, and even vacuumed the entire staircase and hall where the hose ran up to the attic. Very professional and would recommend to anyone.
- Jeffrey S.
A

Rating
I was incredibly impressed with
Independence Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
Insulations job at my house recently. Everyone involved on the project was amazingly professional and helpful. I would highly recommend them to anyone!! Our house is already increasingly cooler to the spray foam insulation that was installed in our VERY hot attic! Thanks again for everything!
- Mary W.

Insulation Contractors in Independence, MO

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

"KCS" Kansas City Sunrooms, Room Additions

7900 NW 100th Street
Kansas City

$49 handyman

3411 W 77 Ter

A & S Solutions

Kansas City

A Guy with Tools, LLC

105 W Laredo Trail
Raymore

A+ Insulation

10947 Kaw Dr

AAA Remediation & Restoration

PO Box 1717
Independence

Aarons Services

P.O. box 24085
Kansas City

AB May

7100 E 50th St
Kansas City

ADVANCED CONSTRUCTION CONTR

9103 E US HIGHWAY 40
Independence

Advanced Gutters and Remodeling LLC

1215 SW Hampton Ct
Grain Valley

Affinity Construction & Contracting LLC

200 e. Whispering Hills Blvd
Lone Jack

Affordable Construction Co

6401 N Interstate Dr

Affordable Energy Solutions

4445 NE Blue Jay Drive
Lees Summit

Affordable Home Repair LLC

7209 N Troost Ave
Kansas City

ALENCO INC

16201 W 110TH ST

Alpha Construction

3212 n 44th st.

Amazing Siding KC

13746 W 135th St

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

Arrow Pest Control PRO

9218 Metcalf Ave

Arrow Pest Control PRO

1314 Eisenhower Rd

Arrow Pest Control PRO

559 NW Barry Rd
Kansas City

Ault Design and Construction

1212 SE Broadway Dr
Lees Summit

AUTUMN SPRING INSULATION

16657 E 23RD ST S
Independence

Bennett Home Improvement & Building

708 NW R D Mize Rd
Blue Springs

Bichelmeyer Renovations LLC

14134 W. 107th St.

Bordner Installation Group

11950 Missouri 350
Raytown

Born Again Remodel

Kansas City

Brackmann Construction Inc

1418 N Scott Ave
Belton

BRADEN ROOFING

1119 Merriam Lane

Bradlech Construction LLC

16657 E. 23rd. St.
Independence

Brantley Construction

6617 W. 152nd Street

Breckenridge Builders Inc.

2315 W 104th Terrace

Catch-It Wildlife & Pest Control Inc

8506 E. 93rd St
Kansas City

CG HISHAW CONSTRUCTION INC

P.O. BOX 140462
Kansas City

Cornerstone Restoration

6324 N Chatham Ave
Kansas City

Cridder Ridder

P.O. Box 23417

Critter Control

5508 N Lucerne Ave
Kansas City

Custom Home Services

37403 E Pink Hill Rd
Oak Grove

Cyber Bridge Marine, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie St

DO IT ALL HANDYMAN

6700 EAST 18th Street
Kansas City

E.B.SMITH CONSTRUCTION

618 W 40TH ST
Kansas City

EBM Maintenance, LLC

PO Box 29018
Parkville

Eldon & Sons Inc

1644 SE Decker Street
Lees Summit

Energy West Contracting

13629 Craig Ave
Grandview

Evolution Concepts, LLC

1005 NW Ashton Dr
Blue Springs

Exterior Energy Consultants Inc

6409 N Oak Trfy
Kansas City

Exterior Touch Inc.

12610 Waverly RD.

Fentress Builders Inc

6006 E 38th St

First Class Heating and Cooling

PO Box 1981
Lees Summit

Flawless Cleaning

606 SE State Rt 291
Lee's Summit

Foam It

17522 37th St

Free Energy

605 N High St
Independence

G & G Restoration LLC

308 Johnston Dr
Raymore

GFI Renovations, LLC

18921 E Valley View Pkwy.
Independence

Heartland Home Exteriors

2900 NW Button Rd

Heartland Renovations

9904 N Lydia Ave
Kansas City

Heritage Exterior Design LLC

124 N Prairie Street
Liberty

Home Care Consultants

234 Emanuel Cleaver Ii Blvd Apt 3W
Kansas City

HOME PERFORMANCE SERVICES

2614 NW W00DLAND
Riverside

Homeworks

14480 W 187 TH TER

Infinity Home Innovations

7905 N Broadway Ave
Kansas City

Installitalkc

1542 Baker
Liberty

Insulation Pros

13755 158th St

J R Construction, LLC

2001 Grand Blvd
Kansas City

J.J's Contracting

19400 E. 37th Terr. Ct. S #106
Independence

JB Insulation, LLC

12210 206th St.

Jeffs Handyman Lawn & Tree

421 S Vassar Ave
Independence

JOHNSON'S CONSTRUCTION

4605 NW Cerrito Ln
Riverside

JR & Co Roofing Contractors

1142 Clay St
Kansas City

JSL Construction LLc

10600 E 79 terr
Raytown

K & G Home Renovations

5031 Lees Summit RD
Kansas City

K.E. Smith construction

8631 N. Kansas Ave.
Kansas City

KC Contracting Solutions

6505 E Frontage Rd

KC Home Solutions LLC

804 N Meadowbrook Dr

KC Metro Renovations

58 T Street
Lee's Summit

KC Tinting

11641 W 83rd Terrace

Kelly Reed Contracting

8642 Melrose St

KRAZE CONSTRUCTION

200 N WATERFORD
Florissant

LASER ELECTRIC SERVICE, LLC

1210 NE COLLEEN CT
Lees Summit

Leisure Living LLC

821 SW Oldham Pkwy
Lees Summit

Lincoln Douglas, INC

11944 West 95th Street

Lomonte Painting

9427 S Outer Belt Rd
Oak Grove

Lumberjack Construction Inc.

9431 Somerset Drive

Malnar Remodeling

7415 stearns

Malnar Remodeling

7415 Stearns

Marlow Home Improvement

1210 NE 10th St
Blue Springs

MARTIN'S CONTRACTING

4915 NW 88TH TER
Kansas City

MC Contracting, LLC

923 NE Woods Chapel Road
Lees Summit

Mike Flood Remodeling

1130 Barnett Ave

MILLENIUM INSULATION

11507 APPLEWOOD DR
Kansas City

MM Companies

720 Minnesota Ave

Mr. Fix It's Home Improvement

4627 NE 42nd St
Kansas City

Nelson Eddy Construction Inc

25410 E St Rt EE
Harrisonville

Nu Home Inc

PO Box 1115
Harrisonville

Olympus Remodeling

5227 leavenworth rd

One Hour Heating & Air Conditioning

712 SW Blue Pkwy
Lee's Summit

PERFECTION CONSTRUCTION

11210 GILL ST
Independence

PRG2 CONSULTING

2505 CREDAR CREST AVE
Independence

Pro Builders LLC

5360 College Blvd

Pro Paving & Sealcoating

1217 Nw Scenic Dr Grain Valley
Grain Valley

prolific home design

516 NE Knox St
Blue Springs

Quatrocky Associates Energy Solutions LLC

25713 33rd St Ter
Blue Springs

R Mech Heating Cooling & Plumbing

1421 Wabash Ave.
Kansas City

Re-Build LLC

302 E Park St

Refined Remodeling

7223 W. 72nd St.

Reinhart Renovations

5328 W 67th St

Reliable Remodelers

1517 N 25th St

Remodel Inc

23701 E Cowherd Rd
Lees Summit

ReTouch Design-Build-Renovate

6025 Metcalf Lane, Suite 310

Rock Creek Roofing and Construction

6221 N Ames Ave
Kansas City

Rock Solid Remodeling

5985 NW 48th St
Kansas City

Roof & Home Exterior Repair Specialist

4643 N Oakley Ave
Kansas City

RoofKC.com

10540 MARTY ST

RoofMasters

5215 S 91st St

Sampson Construction

PO Box 103
Dearborn

Segers Properties LLC.

7221 Troost Ave.
Kansas City

Siding Repair Systems

112 Mariae Ln
O'fallon

Siding Repair Systems

12510 W 62nd Terr

solar

PO Box 520186
Independence

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

Star Companies

8320 Westridge Rd
Kansas City

Star Energy Consultants

PO Box 6422
Lees Summit

Stewart Bunn

8101 Hadley

Suburban Home Services

312 E. 78th Terrace
Kansas City

Summit General Contracting

205 E 1st street
Lees Summit

Sunshine Home Improvement LLC

2849 Terrace St
Kansas City

SunSource Homes Inc.

1828 Walnut St.
Kansas City

Terminix

9214 Bond St

The Green Collar Institute EETCKC

2402 South 34th Street

The Hayes Company

1000 E 11th St
Kansas City

The Spirit Foundation

1925 rutland dr

Tin-Man Metal Building Supply

6616B Blue Ridge Blvd
Raytown

TNG Field Services

PO Box 410352
Kansas City

Two Four Exteriors

9618 Falcon Valley Drive

Van Pelt Contracting

7280 NW 87th St
Kansas City

WALKER'S Home Repair

9516 Linwood
Independence

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WCC ROOFING CO.

34 Front St
Valley Park

William McKeone Construction

244 NE Dreamweaver Ave.

WILLIAMS INSULATION

517 S 11TH ST

Window World

1100 NW Valley Ridge Dr.
Grain Valley

Worldwide Energy

10413 W 84th Ter

Young Remodeling

2517 Jefferson St.
Kansas City

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