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A
"I called
at 6:45 AM I told him I had a clogged drain. He took my information and said he would have have a guy out in a around 2 hours. At" 9:00
was at my door. He was very friendly and took a few moments to put my dog at ease which I really appreciated. He quickly checked out the problem, got his equipment and went to work. I really liked the way didn't make it a big deal. It was a very hot day I have a old house with old plumbing he did a very nice job and I appreciated his professional work. The price was very reasonable.

-John K.

A
"I realized there was a problem with the water main on 08/26/2015 at 9:30 p.m. The first thing I did was to go on to Angie's List to locate a plumber. I filled" out my information and within 30 minutes I was contacted by
and he said he'd be out first thing in the morning. Sure enough I received a call at 8:30 a.m. and he was here by 9:00 a.m. I was so impressed. He checked out everything we needed done and gave us a quote. I made a decision to go with him right away because he was so professional, prompt and a very nice guy. He had a great crew and they worked very very hard. Everything was put back into place and you could hardly tell where they had dug the trench. Whenever I need a plumber in the future I will defiantly call
. Thanks for all of your help!!! ???

-Lori W.

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Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

?
FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
www.thomeservices.com
?
It is usually cheaper to remove part of the ceiling below and patch it after the leak has been repaired.  Remember that water can travel before settling in one area, causing the spot you've seen.  Just because it is below the toilet does not mean that the toilet is the problem.  The cheapest option is to pull the toilet and check the floor around the wax ring to see if it has been leaking.  A new wax ring only costs a few dollars.  When was the last time you caulked the shower in that bathroom?  The water can leak around the corners or at the door (if you have one) and travel along the floor joists until it pools in a lower spot on the ceiling below, then seep through.  It could also be a seal at the drain of the tub or shower. 

I get a few calls a year for this sort of thing.  It's usually something simple but can be a nightmare to diagnose, especially if the problem is intermittent.  Start with the simple possibilities and use deductive reasoning to narrow the possibilities.  Before you do a lot of damage it may pay off to hire a reputable contractor to help you make sure you've exhausted all of the imple and more obvious possibilities.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Cleaning reviews in Independence

A

Rating
This was my second time using this company and in both cases, I was extremely satisfied with the responsiveness, service and professionalism. I would definitely refer them to friends and family.
- Lisa H.
D

Rating
The main problem was that during the first visit as he didn't have the right material to be replace, he ask me to return, I agree, and if I will aprove the costs, and he gave me the idea that the cost will be around $ 300.00, and for my surprise after fixed everything he show me a bill of 39.99 throught angielist plus 474.30 USD, as a total of 514.29 USD.
This is not a fair way to work, since as I gave to him my phone number He could before buy the parts call me to tell me if I will approve or not this value.
- antonio S.
A

Rating
O&M rocks. These guys saved us from a proposed $4000 repair from a
Independence Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
company. The other company took over a week to try and diagnosis the leak and said we needed to replace our entire system for $4000. Read a review on Yelp about the other plumber,
Independence Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
, that said customer had a similar experience and that the leak turned out to be at one of the shutoff valves in the house.



We called O&M who quickly diagnosed the leak at 2 of the shutoff valves in the house and repaired it within a couple of hours for $300. The new plumber says there was only one fitting under the house that showed signs of being tested with soap, all the other fittings still had dirt and dust on them indicating that they were never sprayed and tested.



When the gas company came out to turn the gas back on there was an issue with our hot water heater not getting gas. O&M came right back out to the house to diagnose the problem before the inspector left to ensure we didn't loose another day without gas. Got the issue resolved and the gas back on. Awesome service!
- Jennifer S.
A

Rating
Went very well. Arrived on time. Gave an estimate which was reasonable. Work was completed in a reasonable amount of time. Cleaned up after the job was completed. Very courteous and professional. Would definitely call on
Independence Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
& Son Plumbing for future plumbing repairs.
- Millicent H.
A

Rating
They identified that additional work needed to be done (opening up part of basement ceiling to reach piping) and offered to include that work in the original agreement. They were very informative, efficient and professional.
- Mary Beth M.
A

Rating
Best plumber EVER!!! Our one and only bathtub became clogged and we tried every home remedy we could think of to fix it--we did chemicals, a snake down the drain, a water bladder, etc. By the time we realized we could not fix the issue ourselves it was after 10pm so I called
Independence Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
after reading reviews on Angie's List, hoping to leave a message and get a call back the next day.
Independence Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
answered at 10:10pm and said he could come right away.
Independence Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
arrived around 10:30pm, fixed our difficult clog, and only charged us his regular rate (I was expecting to pay double or triple for a late night plumbing fix)!
Independence Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
is now my one and only plumber--thank you so much
Independence Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
!
- Catherine R.
A

Rating
I am a returning customer, just like last year,
Independence Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
was professional and great at his job. He even cleaned up the under area that was dirty to begin with. Very nice man.
- Mickie J.
A

Rating
We had a small amount of water coming through our basement ceiling one day and a deluge a few days later. We used Angie’s List to call Cliff. We thought it might be coming from our kitchen sink but really weren’t sure. We left a message for Cliff and he called us back the same day and set an appointment for the next day. Cliff was friendly and professional. He listened to what we had to say and then investigated the issue. He checked everything and then double checked it. In his investigations he found a few other little things that we were then able to fix before they became bigger, more expensive, problems. It turned out the problem was a pipe in the powder room behind the kitchen. He had to rip out part of the powder room wall to get a good idea of the extent of the problem. It had totally rotted through. Cliff explained all the issues and the different solutions. He spent the time needed to determine the problem. The job was too big to do in the time allotted. He set it up to minimize the leak as much as possible and he promised to come back early the next day and fix everything, which he did. Both times he cleaned up before leaving and made sure the plaster dust from the wall didn’t go all over the house. He did a beautiful job. It has been a week and the leaks are gone and the drain he cleaned out for us runs like a dream. Cliff was nice, professional and an excellent plumber. His fees are very reasonable. A terrific combination and when we need a plumber again, Cliff is the one we are going to call.
- Kathryn E.

Drain Cleaning Companies in Independence, MO

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

$49 handyman

3411 W 77 Ter

221 Construction LLC

1050 W Innovation Dr
Kearney

A & S Solutions

Kansas City

A W B HANDY HANDS RESOURCES

7212 S BENTON
Kansas City

Aarons Services

P.O. box 24085
Kansas City

AB May

7100 E 50th St
Kansas City

ABC Plumbing & Drain Cleaning

3404 N. Garfield Ave.
Kansas City

Accurate Dimensions Construction LLC

233 S.W. Greenwich Drive
Lees Summit

Advocate Master Plumbing

707 Northwest 16th Street
Blue Springs

Affordable Energy Solutions

4445 NE Blue Jay Drive
Lees Summit

Affordable Home Repair LLC

7209 N Troost Ave
Kansas City

All Pro Plumbing

1213 N. Old Mill Rd.
Independence

All-n-One Plumbing & Drains

PO Box 520811
Independence

Allure Painting & Renovation

111 N 1st St
Blue Springs

Alpha Plumbing

713 W. Mulberry St.

Andy's Pipe Dream

15954 S. Mur Len Road

Angel Services

3611 Olive St
Kansas City

Anthony Weir Plumbing & Remodel LLC

8404 E 105th St
Kansas City

ASAP Services

11800 Shawnee Mission Parkway Suite 22

B & L Plumbing Service Inc

301 NW Central St,
Lees Summit

Barnds Companies

10000 W 135 St

Beemer Plumbing

23270 S Waverly Rd

Benjamin Franklin Plumbing

7748 Troost Ave
Kansas City

bigFIX

2212 w 48th ter

Bill's Drain Cleaning

10825 E 23rd St
Independence

BLUE LINE PLUMBING

13505 S MURLEN

Bob's Root'r Service

9105 E. 69th Terr.
Kansas City

Breckenridge Builders Inc.

2315 W 104th Terrace

Burkin Plumbing

50 North 74th St.

C&C Mechanical llc

901 Ute ave.
Independence

CHARLES G JAMES CO

3965 West 83rd

Collins Plumbing LLC

9203 Noland Rd
Kansas City

Direct Plumbing

PO Box 423
Odessa

Drains R Us

401 NW Essex Dr.
Lee's Summit

Eric Scotts Plumbing and Baths

717 Woodson St.
Kearney

Everyday Mechanical Inc.

2616 NW 86th St
Kansas City

First General Services of Kansas City

708 NW R.D. Mize Road Suite J
Blue Springs

Fred The Handyman, LLC

504 Oak Drive
Raymore

Full Nelson Plumbing

8109 1/2 N Oak Trafficway
Kansas City

Gercken Construction Company

137 N Stewart Rd
Liberty

GOLDEN'S PLUMBING CO

211 NE LANDINGS CT
Lees Summit

GRT PLUMBING

19058 W 319TH ST

Handyman Barrett LLC

19419 Bryn Mawr Dr
Independence

Harbolt Plumbing, Inc.

12017 W 74th St

Hemenway Home Improvements LLC

23513 West 58th Street

Heritage Exterior Design LLC

124 N Prairie Street
Liberty

Hudson Plumbing

23208 E Us Hwy 24
Blue Springs

Hydro Physics Pipe Inspection

7823 N Park
Kansas City

J C PLUMBING

4915 N Beacon Ave
Kansas City

JASON TOPE PLUMBING

2526 S 47TH DR

JOE LILLIS PLUMBING

8415 W 113th St

JOHN R LESAN PLUMBING & HEATING CO

11803 S. SPAINHOUR RD
Lone Jack

Johnson County Home Service Plumbing

4011 Bonner Industrial Drive

JPS SEWER & DRAIN INC

PO BOX 592
Lees Summit

K.C. Drainworks

P.O.Box 1655
Independence

Kansas City Power Washing & Home Repairs

4140 Prospect Ave.
Kansas City

KC Home Solutions LLC

804 N Meadowbrook Dr

KC Metro Plumbing LLC

15621 W 87th St Pkwy

KCERW LLC

2809 N. Twyman Rd.
Independence

KEVIN GINNINGS PLUMBING SERVICES

903 LOCUST
Harrisonville

Kurt's Plumbing Inc

10729 West 109th ST

Kuzila Inc.

605 Central Avenue

LITTLE JOHN PLUMBING

315 E 70 TH ST
Kansas City

Lumberjack Construction Inc.

9431 Somerset Drive

Lutz Plumbing Inc

PO BOX 860483

Malnar Remodeling

7415 stearns

Malnar Remodeling

7415 Stearns

MARIONIX INC

1401 WOODLAND ST.

MAYES PLUMBING INC

501 S McCleary Rd
Excelsior Springs

MEL Contracting

1040 NW S Outer Rd
Blue Springs

Morris Pool Services

66th st
Kansas City

Mr Plumber Inc

3057 Merriam Ln

Mr. Rooter Plumbing of Kansas City

5415 Raytown Road
Kansas City

Nick Triano Plumbing

1650 Madison Ave
Kansas City

NorthSide Plumbing

975 Swift Ave
Kansas City

Parks Roofing and Renovations

3843 Montgall
Kansas City

Paxton heating and air

4138 ne kelsey rd.

Pete's Dependable & Quality Service

4506 S Osage St
Independence

PG Plumbing & Backhoe Service llc

7424 NW Oak Drive
Kansas City

Plumbers 911 Kansas

10955 Lowell Avenue, Suite 1050

PLUMBING PRO

26904 S STATE RTE C
Freeman

POOR JOHN'S PLUMBING

Kansas City, MO
Kansas City

Precision Plumbing

3245 Roanoke Rd
Kansas City

Pro Paving & Sealcoating

1217 Nw Scenic Dr Grain Valley
Grain Valley

Pro-Plumbing Works LLC

2115 Robinson Ave

Pryor Mechanical

221 NW 180th Street
Smithville

QUALITY PLUMBING INC

1731 HOWELL ST.
North Kansas City

QUICK RELIEF PLUMBING

P.O. Box 16109

R Mech Heating Cooling & Plumbing

1421 Wabash Ave.
Kansas City

Raytown Plumbing

PO Box 18575
Kansas City

Razor Rooter / Any-Time Sewer Service

3014 NE Excelsior St
Kansas City

Reddi Services Inc

4011 Bonner Industrial Dr

Refined Remodeling

7223 W. 72nd St.

Rescue 1 Plumbing

PO Box 2039
Lees Summit

SamuelCole & Company llc.

3711 Genessee St
Kansas City

Segers Properties LLC.

7221 Troost Ave.
Kansas City

Sehorn Mechanical

9902 E 53rd St
Raytown

Shuler Enterprises

8510 Riley St

Snake 'N' Rooter

3370 NE Powell Rd
Lees Summit

Stouder Improvements

5910 N Euclid Ave
Kansas City

Suburban Home Services

312 E. 78th Terrace
Kansas City

The Plumber LLC

6916 Hardsaw Road
Oak Grove

The Plumbing Pro

12519 Blue Ridge
Grandview

The Repair Shop

101 Gore Road
Raymore

Val Gross Plumbing

603 East 23rd St
Independence

Vaughan Mechanical Service

4220 NE 34th Street
Kansas City

Village Plumbing

2912 W. 72nd St.

Z BEST PAINTING INC

7111 W 151ST ST

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