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is generally a little higher priced than the big box stores, however, there employees are generally better informed and more friendly. In" this case we wanted a new shower door for a Jacuzzi bath tub that we bought at big blue box store but they only had real cheap ($179 ) or real expensive ($799), with nothing in-between. Hartivlle offered Cardinal brand out of KY, decent price of $357 and good quality, only took about 10 days for our semi-custom order of Rain Glass and Oil Rubbed Bronze.

-Mark S C.

"This is the only place that has ever been able to help me with this. I also use their locksmiths all the time and they are the best. Friendly staff, concerned with" the customer's needs, and I will continue to go back

-janice K.

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Local Articles in Savage

fresh deck stain worth home improvement cost
Hardware & Home Improvement Stores

Opting for the least-expensive paint, gutters or other items may cost you more in the long run.

When choosing a drill, remember that size doesn't matter as much as voltage. A good drill will cost more, but the battery won't wear out while it's not in use. (Photo by Eldon Lindsay)
Hardware & Home Improvement Stores

Quality power tools, ladders and ratchet sets aren’t just for the professionals. Handy homeowners should spend their time and money on tools that work.

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Consider your home's layout to decide if an existing space can be converted into a game room or if you'll need to add on.

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Car-sharing programs can reduce greenhouse gas emissions by taking more cars off the road and reducing traffic congestion.

Angie's Answers

Todd said it best.

An itemized list / cost breakdown, more often than not is used against the contractor when it is shared with other builders who will then beat it.

Good contractors use good people, and good people cost more.  Just the cost of having the appropriate insurance / bond can be the difference between winning a job or losing it ot a 'lower bid'.

It is the rule of three; there is Good, Cheap and Fast.  You can have any two:  Good and Cheap, won't be Fast; Good and Fast, won't be Cheap;  Cheap and Fast, won't be Good!

When comparing bids, it isn't the cheapest or the 'nicest' person you should select.   You should understand why there is a large price difference (it shows there are gaps in your design program or what you have asked for specifically, which means there may be arguments later).  If most of the bids are in line, and one is way high or way low,  you want to know why before dismissing or selecting them.

A price-only decision almost always costs more in the long run. 

Good luck!

No.  Heck no.  Here's a good example.  We very recently needed to find someone to install about 500 square feet of exotic wood flooring (we already have the materials).  We contacted about 12-15 top-rated Angieslist contractors.  Out of the few who did get back to us, we got 5 quotes, 2 of them were literally just over the phone.  They "didn't feel it would be necessary to even see the space". 


Here were the bids: 

$4000 (sight unseen), $2800 (sight unseen), $2500, $1500, $1450


We didn't "share our budget for this".  Why would we?  We asked them to bid the job.  That's it.  All of them should be well-qualified and they are all highly rated.  We were interested in how THEY value their time/resources - for an apples/apples job. 


Do you still think that you should tell them about your budget?  Your choice.  From my standpoint it isn't their business.  I'm asking them to bid on a project.  Invariably I'll get some very high bids, medium bids and a few more reasonable ones - ALL from "highly rated contractors". 

For this type of job, you need plans and specs from an Architectural/Engineering firm before thinking about contractors - and to get a building permit. Ben's method would work and done incrementally could cost well over $100,000 plus as he says, but this not really the most economic way to approach this big a job. A House Mover or Foundation Underpinning specialty company can usually slide your house onto a whole new foundation, or jack it up on steel beams and hold it there while a basement is dug underneath it, without any intermediate piers. The jacking/move cost would probably be on the order of $30-40,000, and a new basement probably about $40-50,000 - rough ballpark, though I have been involved in some 1000-1500SF single story jobs that went for under $70,000 total. I have been involved in a fair number of these type jobs - and the way the numbers come out, if there is room on the property to move the house, it is almost always nearly as cheap or cheaper to build an equivalent square footage (basement plus ground level) addition rather than add a basement under the house, and that way your new footage is half above ground so worth more on resale, plus you do not lose use of the house for a month or two. Second cheapest is usually sliding house to a new foundation, if property is large enough to do this - though house is totally cut off from utilities for a week to three. Most expensive, and usually only done in tight city environments or with full 2 story or higher houses, is adding the foundation in place, though your utility interruptions should be on the order of hours at a time rather than days or weeks. Talk to an architect - I think you will quickly lean towards the addition option rather than adding a basement - it is just too expensive to deepen foundations in most cases, plus you WILL get cracking in the house and possible water and sewer pipe problems in a move/underpinning job, which is not the case with an addition. This become more likely the case since you want to add 8 feet off the back of the home anyway - so why not just enlarge the addition and do it all that way - MUCH simpler, and MUCH less disruption of your life, and you get much higher resale return on your investment.

Herlonginc's answer stated that it is not the contractor's job to pay for materials and labor to do the job. I say baloney - a reputable, established contractor has the funds (or a business operations line of credit) to "carry" the job between interim or partial payments, each of which should be keyed to completion of distinct easily measured mileposts in the job, and for a homeowner I would say should be in not more than 20% increments for jobs exceeding a week or so. For shorter jobs, then an initial payment, 50% completion, and completion would be normal. His cost of carry funds is part of his cost of doing business, and is figured as part of his overhead.Bear in mind when he is buying materials and paying labor, his materials he typically pays for on a 10-30 day invoice, and his labor typically a week or two after they work, so he is not really "fronting" that much money if you are giving him weekly or biweekly interim payments, on a typical residential job.

If he does not have the funds to buy materials (excepting possibly deposit on special-order or luxury items, which still typically are 10-30 day invoiceable to him) and hire personnel then he is a fly-by-night operation, and he should not be bidding that size job. You should never (other than MAYBE an earnest deposit of not more than the LESSER of 10% or $5000) let the payments get ahead of the approved/inspected work progress - typically payment should be 10-20% BEHIND the progress, with at least 10% retained at the effective end of work until final inspections and completion of the final "punchlist".

That promotes rapid continuation of the work, discourages the all-too common nightmare of contractors taking on more work than they can handle so they leave your job for weeks or months to go work on someone else's job (frequently to start that someone else's new job so he can get the job), and does not leave you out a tremendous amount of cash if he does not finish and you have to hire another contractor to finish the job. Remember, if you have to hire a new contractor to finish the job, he will charge you a lot more than the original bid to finish someone else's unfinished mess.

This may seem cynical, but having started in the construction business about 50 years ago and seeing the shenanigans that a lot of contractors pull you cannot be too safe. You have to remember contractors are like any other people - I would say maybe 10% are outright crooks, another 25% or so will pull a fast one or overcharge if the opportunity presents itself, maybe 30% will do the work but not any better than they are forced to, about 25% are good conscientious reputable workmen, and the last 10% or so are really spectacular - conscientious, fair, and efficient craftsmen. This top 35% are the only ones you should have bidding in the first place. Therefore, only get bids from long-term reputable firms (so you shake out the marginal short-timers with less experience and also generally less ability to finish the job on budget and schedule), only those that have good RECENT references, and preferably with excellent word-of-mouth recommendation from people you know and trust. That way, you are starting right off with the cream of the crop, so hopefully whichever one bids low should be a good choice.

NEVER start with bids, then check the references of the low bidder - why even consider a vendor or contractor who you do not have faith in from the start ? Get references and short-list you possibles BEFORE you ask for bids.

Low bids - that is another matter - commonly the low bidder is NOT who you want, especially if he is significantly lower than several others, which might mean he is desperate for work, made a math error, or did not correctly figure the entire scope of work. You want a reasonable bid with someone you connect with and trust - that is worth a lot more in the success of the job than the absolute lowest bid.


You should always get a set of print and pull a permit when remodeling you home. It is a good thing that you want to be involved in your project. I do have some reservation about the electrical work. There is a lot at risk with doing the work yourself. If the house burns down you will never get the insurance money, unless your a certified electrician. Now of days 90% of home fires are blamed on electrical problems because the insurance company is to lazy and cheap to investigate the true problem. Also find out if the city you live in will allow you to perform the work. Make sure you coordinate your subs to have the proper time and space to perform their job. You don't want people working on top of each other. If you order all you materials make sure everything is there before you start your project. Have your subs check for proper and full items to be installed. Make sure every sub has a working set of prints. Make sure you have all the demo done before your subs show up to work. Schedule your plumber first, do any final framing or electrical work while you wait for inspection. Electrical inspection next followed by framing, insulation, and wallboard. All subs must get a final inspection on the job before you (the GC) can call in your final inspection.
The answer depends on your contract.  If you do not have a written contract, you need to begin documenting everything.  Begin by using a calendar and marking the days the contractor started, worked, you had to speak to him/her about the work, etc.

Next photograph the work you feel is sub-par.  If work has been corrected, photograph it now to have a record of its condition.  If you have any "original" or "before work began" pictures get those together, too.

If you do have written contract, see what it says about warranties, complaints, failure to finish / comply, etc.  Holding the money may end up with the contractor taking YOU to court for the funds - you cannot just hold the money.  You need to document in writing what is wrong, what you expect to happen (be specific) and when it should happen by.  A good contract will explain if and how money can be held, how the arbitration or complaint is filed, etc.

You should also invite another contractor to come in and bid the work to finish the job.  They can confirm the quality of the work and give you a price to fix / finish the job.  This gives you justification for holding the funds and an option to finish the job.

If the contractor is not willing to fix the work or listen to direction, do not allow them back in the house.  A judge will ask you why you let them continue to do work if you found it unacceptable.  Take back the key or access to the building - you can also attempt holding any materials or tools as collateral if the cost of repair is higher than the amount owed.  Again, document what you are holding, its estimated value (google or ebay search), etc.

Finally, in writing you should fire the contractor and state the exact reason(s).  Document everything; if it is done in person after they leave make notes of what was said, agreed upon and disputed.  If you are satisfied that what you have paid is fair compensation for the work done, make sure this is noted in the letter firing the contractor.  If you feel money is owed, you will need to file a small claim in your local court.  Include the documentation you made, notes, letters, etc. when you file your claim so the judge will have a copy of everything.  Don't forget to contact the BBB.

Do not wait for the court date; go ahead and hire the other contractor and have the work completed.  Bring this invoice to court with you (file it before the court date if you can).  Bring photos of the finished work (again, file it with the court before the date if possible).  You must show what good quality work looks like vs the poor quality work.

Otherwise it will be a your word against the contractor and you will most likely lose, (the contract is a promise to pay for work) or even if you "win" you will most likely split the difference between the argued amount of money.  Also be prepared for the contractor to file a small court claim against you.  Same process as above, except now you will respond to the summons with a copy of your stuff to defend your reason for holding funds instead of asking for money back.

Good luck!

Hardware Store reviews in Savage


Since purchasing the faucets in 2011 I have replaced the under cabinet hardware once in 2013 after several leaks appeared on one of the faucets. I contacted
Savage Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
in early September 2015 to have them order replacement hardware again for a master bathroom sink that was leaking & also the kitchen sink hardware that was also leaking. The custom cabinets have been damaged & will need to be replaced due to the amount of water damage. The master bathroom sink has not been in use for 1 month now while waiting for
Savage Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
to order the parts from the manufacturer. At least 2 of the staff that I have spoken with are "too busy with customers" & don't call you back & when I do speak to a staff member, they'll "check on the status of the order" & also never get back to you. I have spoken to or left messages with
Savage Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
Savage Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
several times now over the past month.
As of today October 8th, I still have no hardware to replace the broken / cracked hoses that leaked all over the cabinets & still no answer as to when I can expect delivery of these items.
- Nicole M.

Savage Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
came out in early Feb of 2015 and the project was finally completed in Aug of 2015. We had a lot of delays due to weather and getting materials, was a problem.
Savage Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
ordered a 6 foot skylight to let the most light in he could, and upon arrival with his crew, they determined it was too large and not going to work, so that caused another long delay.
Savage Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
was not the fastest to respond to emails, voice mails etc. The workers he sent were excellent, on time, very neat , great skills always cleaned up at the end of their day. He also sent a very good electrician to do the wiring for the new can lights.
Savage Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
did compensate us in the final price, and acknowledged that the project did take way too long. I think our project was just too small for his company, and it was like a filler, when his crew had a few hours here or there. Because of the delays we were assured the skylight was installed very well, it sat untouched for approx. 4 -6 weeks and during that time we had some very heavy rains and no leaks, so that is very good.
- Debra P.

We like to shop
Savage Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
so the discount gift card was useful. Also,
Savage Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
offers a 10% military discount for ID card holders everyday. Very nice of
Savage Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
to do that.
- Paul L.

Angie's list won't stop making me enter this review so here it is. Angie's list should provide a cancel button to stop popping up the request to review this. It was a$5 gift card that I never used
- Michael B.

Troublesome from ordering through Window and Door special services, product received damaged. Was encouraged to installed when the installer arrived with the doors and tube of wood filler. In fairness to them it the damage was repairable and our need to get the doors installed was paramount. Would not use Special Services at
Savage Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
again, the installer
Savage Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
Screens did a exceptional job, highly recommend.
- Steve H.

Excellent response on delivering needed materials. Great people working in the store to help with products. Questions answered.
- casey B.

I paid for Five Slab stones. Four of them to be installed in the future, one was for my daughters bathroom. He never completed my daughter’s bathroom after ten months of promising over and over again that the stone was being fabricated and he kept the money for the four other slabs. This Guy should be a Story book writer with the amount of excuses he will give you. Not an Honest man in my opinion, He took me for about $10K. I will be taking legal actions against this wonderful man.
- Jeffrey M.

Savage Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
Savage Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
always comes through for my companies concrete jobs every time I need concrete. I've used
Savage Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
for many years on various projects. Also, used
Savage Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
's services at my own home. I highly recommend
Savage Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
Savage Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
- Benjamin G.

Hardware Stores in Savage, MN

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

AA Garage Door Service

401 9th Ave
Saint Paul Park

ABC Supply - Coon Rapids

10141 Woodcrest Dr.
Coon Rapids

ABC Supply Co. Inc.

14399 Huntington Ave



Arrow Building Center

755 31ST ST E

Bauer Brothers Salvage

2432 N 2nd St

Brickhouse Security

980 Avenue of the Americas

C & T Siding Inc

103 Packer Dr



Carpets Plus/ Color Tile

955 Hwy 7 W

Cemstone Products Co

2025 Centre Pointe Blvd Ste 300
St Paul


12011 Technology Dr
Eden Prairie

Dream Floors

14050 23rd Ave N
Plymouth, Mn


2108 10TH ST E

Ferguson Bath, Kitchen & Lighting Gallery

925 Decatur Ave N
Golden Valley

Frattallone's Ace Hardware

13735 Round Lake Blvd NW

Galleria Restoration Hardware

3670 Galleria St

Geek Squad - Best Buy

1000 W 78th St

Hamline Hardware Hank & Rental

755 N. Snelling Ave.
Saint Paul

Hang Time Tools

On line store






400 W 79 ST





Hugo Feed Mill & Hardware

5582 N 146 St

Inspiration Design Center

2200 West Highway 13


2210 Geddie Pl

Lampert Lumber

1225 S Hwy. 3


Lake Elmo




Saint Paul


Cottage Grove

Menards Hardware

3000 S Broadway

Metro Area Builders llc

PO Box 112

Midwest Soda Blasters

8325 Haeg Dr

Minnesota Barnwood, LLC

Store Location; 104 Railway ST

Minnesota Tile & Stone

6001 Culligan Way

Natural Built Home

4020 Minnehaha Ave


Saint Paul


2111 W 90TH ST

Precision tile&granite LLC

1055 Goebel st

Remodel Card

2575 Fairview Ave N
Saint Paul

Rent N' Save

504 Wilson Ave.

RepairClinic.com Inc

48600 Michigan Ave

River Lake True Value Hdwe

3605 E Lake St


7003 East Lake Street


Saint Paul

Shaw/Stewart Lumber

645 Johnson Street NE

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street



Summit Hill

167 Gleahaven Rd

The Home Depot

5800 Cedar Lake Rd S

Tilford Contracting

6530 Balsam LN N
Maple Grove

To the T Consruction

4335 Pheasant Ridge Dr.


7550 University Ave NE


801 State Highway 284


PO Box 44182
Eden Prairie

Vent and Cover

306-7337 137 st

WBL Home Improvement

4550 Evergreen Dr

White Bear Rentals & Sales

3865 HWY 61
Saint Paul



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