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"Because two other electricians never returned our calls and a third charged us for a diagnosis but hasn't yet gotten back to us with a bid on a situation they" strongly warned was a fire hazard, I called
to inspect and give a second opinion. They were quick, courteous, professional, and thorough. Gave me an on the spot estimate that was about half of the ballpark estimate of the other contractor I was still waiting to hear back from. When I called but still couldn't get a response from the other company over the next few hours, I contacted
again and asked them to come and do the work. They made it a priority because of the safety issue and took care of the installation that afternoon. They pointed out the damage, explained everything thoroughly, and did a good job. Would definitely use again or recommend to friends.

-Colleen T.

"The technician showed up and was extremely courteous and professional. He immediately got to work on the two projects I needed him to complete. He cleaned up after" himself and made sure everything was working. He saved small talk about football until he was "off the clock" which is greatly appreciated - it shows the technician was not a robot and genuinely enjoyed meeting people and helping them but also respected that customers were paying by time, not services completed.

-Jacob S.

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Local Articles in Lake Park

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Common Electrical Problems

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

Solar power panels
Heating & A/C, Electrical, Solar Panels

Homeowners should install green energy before the end of 2016 for a 30 percent tax credit.

wind power
Electrical, Solar Panels

For wind power to work well in a residential setting, it needs much space and a free-flowing breeze.

computer energy-saving tips
Electrical, Computer Sales

Whether you have a desktop or laptop, consider these tips to save electricity — and cash.

Angie's List ideas
Remodeling - General, Plumbing, Electrical, Auto Service, Roofing, Heating & A/C

Here are some of our favorite tips from highly rated service professionals over the past 20 years.

Angie's Answers

Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).


As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !



Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.


An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.


A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.


Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.


If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.


I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.


IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrician reviews in Lake Park


I have never had a repair man offer me a coupon that saved me $25. I was shocked, but very delighted. Very good people and very professional.
- Michael W.

Prompt, professional, very knowledgeable, clean, efficient.
Lake Park Electricians Provider Name Locked
gave me some very sound advice regarding my smoke detectors. No heavy sales pitch, just good advice, which I intend to follow thorough with in the near future. I will continue to use this company for electrical service in the futre and request
Lake Park Electricians Provider Name Locked
- Dawn R.

it took about a week to schedule the service and
Lake Park Electricians Provider Name Locked
arrived about 10 minutes late but his work was professional and thorough and I will definitely use the service again
- M A G.

Lake Park Electricians Provider Name Locked
was punctual and got right to work. He installed the ceiling fan first and then mounted the TV. It went smoothly and I was very pleased. If I need any electrical work in the future, I will not do any research! I will just call
Lake Park Electricians Provider Name Locked
Lake Park Electricians Provider Name Locked
- jacqueline B.

We called D & R because we had problems with a few of the light fixtures in the kitchen: one ballast was broke, one light was intermittent, and one other just wasn't working. We originally just wanted to get the three lights fixed. When they looked at the problem they gave us the options: they could just fix the three lights but they would recommend retrofitting all 9 of the lights to LEDs and explained why. The ballasts were rather expensive to replace and don't last more than 5-7 years; and we could expect to replace the remaining ones at any time. He advised that retrofitting all 9 of the lights would be much less expensive, last much longer than the old lights and is the most current technology for this type of lighting choice. We chose to retrofit all 9 fixtures which was more cost effective ($550 to retrofit all 9 versus $350 to repair the 3 broken ones knowing we'd be needing to replace the other 6 at some point.)
This could not have gone any more smoothly. We called a couple of weeks before the install to get an estimate; they were completing a job in our area and came out when they were done with that job. The estimate was very reasonable. The day of the install they were on time (even a few minutes early). Went right to work and got the job done quickly. At the time of the estimate we hadn't realized how bright the LEDs would be (they were very bright) and they told me when they were installing the lights that they were dimmable. Our switches were not set up to dim lights but he was prepared and had the right kind of dimmers to replace our light switches. This was an additional cost but was also very reasonable.
My husband and I were very pleased with the results. The fixtures look much nicer than the original ones and we really like that we can adjust the level of light with the dimmers. The only thing that could have been better was if they had mentioned at the time of the estimate that the LEDs were dimmable and we could have discussed and decided to have the dimmers installed too at the time of the estimate.
We highly recommend D&R for electrical work and would not hesitate to use them again.
- Deborah S.

The original work was done as scheduled, but about a week later I noticed that an indoor power outlet on the same circuit as the new outlet no longer worked. I contacted Millennium and
Lake Park Electricians Provider Name Locked
promised to correct the problem without hesitation. Scheduling the additional repair presented some challenges, with a couple of missed appointments. In the end, however, the repair was completed correctly, and to make up for the delays, he patched the trench in the drywall that they had to create to install the new outlet. This was not part of the work, and was a very pleasant surprise (I was planning on patching it myself). In the end,
Lake Park Electricians Provider Name Locked
showed why he has positive Angie's List review's. He was very professional, hardworking, and courteous, and when something didn't go quite right, he stepped up to make it right. I would recommend Millennium.
- Lauren R.

It was raining on the day of work and the technician called to let me know they'd be about thirty minutes late since the rain was "supposed" to be moving out. They arrived at the time they indicated but rain was still coming down. The power company was late to arrive to cut power. In short, it was a rough day for them with the rain and supporting processes not coming off as scheduled. They were prepared with a canopy to cover them while they worked in the rain. Due to the many delays, the technician needed to come back the following day (his day off, by the way) to finish. The technician was extremely respectful and also apologetic for the delays (over which, he had control). He explained what they were doing and why so it was also educational. Since I do own an older home, I have no doubt future electrical work will be needed and I will definitely have them back based on this experience. I've had limited electrical work done on my home previous to this and am so glad I went with MVP this time. Excellent work and superior customer service.
- Janet C.

Our congratulations to Angie's List and our thankful appreciation to
Lake Park Electricians Provider Name Locked
and all of their fine employees. After searching Angie's List for days, we finally decided to take the $99 Ceiling Fan Installation deal offered by
Lake Park Electricians Provider Name Locked
(and we're so glad we did). We bought the deal on Tues., 09-01-'15. We were confirmed by Angie's List also on 09-01-'15. We received an e-mail from Customer Service person
Lake Park Electricians Provider Name Locked
Lake Park Electricians Provider Name Locked
Electrical Contractor, also on 09-01-'15, but were not home at the time to receive it. We called
Lake Park Electricians Provider Name Locked
the next morning (09-02-'15), discussed what we needed done and reviewed her schedule.
Lake Park Electricians Provider Name Locked
offered an appointment for 09-03-'15, between 10am & 12pm, which worked out perfectly for us. I was advised at the beginning by
Lake Park Electricians Provider Name Locked
that there would be an extra, minimal charge for the "ceiling fan box brace" and the installation of the two light switches.
Lake Park Electricians Provider Name Locked
, the electrician from
Lake Park Electricians Provider Name Locked
Electrical Contractor arrived at our home at 9:45am, on 09-03-'15, introduced & identified himself, was invited in and shown directly to the room the ceiling fan was to be installed in. When
Lake Park Electricians Provider Name Locked
first arrived, we went over what was to be done, and he also advised of the "minimal extra charges". He began working straight away.
Lake Park Electricians Provider Name Locked
is a very friendly, knowledgeable and very professional individual.
Lake Park Electricians Provider Name Locked
explained each step of what he was doing as he went along. I asked if it bugged him that I was standing there watching and he said "absolutely not" !
Lake Park Electricians Provider Name Locked
took the existing ceiling light down, placed a special ceiling fan box brace, assembled the entire ceiling fan and light assembly and then installed the entire assembly on the ceiling fixture.
Lake Park Electricians Provider Name Locked
checked the entire operation of the ceiling fan and light assembly, plus that the remote control was functioning properly.
Lake Park Electricians Provider Name Locked
also installed two light switches for us.
Lake Park Electricians Provider Name Locked
had covered everything before starting work and cleaned up everything when he was done. The job was OK'd by us, COMPLETED TO OUR FULL SATISFACTION and the extra charges came to only $35. This company is very upfront, honest and very professional in the work they do. We are extremely happy with the work that was done and how it was done. We will use this company in the future (and hopefully
Lake Park Electricians Provider Name Locked
will come out) for any and all of our electrical needs. We will highly recommend this company to all our friends, relatives and acquaintances. This is really an outstanding organization.
- Robert H.

Electricians in Lake Park, MN

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave. SE

All Energy Solar

1642 Carroll Ave
Saint Paul

Arntson Electric

24426 County Highway 4
Pelican Rapids


Lake Park

Baker Electric

2608 Fairway Dr




Detroit Lakes

Cole's Electric

7596 NW 40th St

Dan Richter Construction LLC

90 Reserve Dr
Grand Rapids

DC Custom Wiring LLC

11880 Arlene Drive
Park Rapids


16598 150TH ST NE
Thief River Falls

Garden Structures & More

1386 Beech St
Saint Paul

Hansen Avenson Electric

12529 County 32
Park Rapids

Hoffbeck Electric & Design, LLC

1397 Little John Road


Park Rapids

KB Electric

10795 state highway 238


29923 157th Ave S
Pelican Rapids

Mattson Electric Of Mora LLC

725 Village Green Lane

Northern Lights Electrical

11879 Maplewood Drive

Paul Davis Restoration & Remodeling

25130 County Hwy 6
Detroit Lakes

Pequot Auto Repair

4599 Morehouse Dr
Pequot Lakes

Pine River Electric Inc.

2181 State-84 SW
Pine River


1271 Highway 10 West
Detroit Lakes

Professional Exteriors, Inc

3158 Viking Blvd. NE
East Bethel

Quality Electric Service Inc

1231 S Oak Ave

Rick Electrical Solutions, LLC

1210 Stony Brook Rd
Fergus Falls

Ron Molde Electric

7022 County Rd 15 SW



Taffe Electric

535 Lakeshore Drive

Twin City Garage Door Co

5601 Boone Ave N

USA Electric, Inc.

113 2nd St


16380 COUNTY 4
Spring Grove


12637 S 265 W Suite 100


25955 COUNTY ROAD 27
Sleepy Eye
Lake Park Zip Codes

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