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was responsive, fast and efficient. He got in, got the job done, cleaned up and was out in a flash. Great service. I'd definitely recommend.

-Nathan L.

were extremely quick to fit us into their busy schedule! They came out exactly when they said they would, were on time and very professional." Our drains had been very slow. We were new homeowners and had no idea what to do! The quickly diagnosed our problem and took care of it immediately. Everything is draining perfectly now and we were extremely pleased with the service and the price!

-Jennifer S.

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Angie's Answers


First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.


Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.


From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
It is usually cheaper to remove part of the ceiling below and patch it after the leak has been repaired.  Remember that water can travel before settling in one area, causing the spot you've seen.  Just because it is below the toilet does not mean that the toilet is the problem.  The cheapest option is to pull the toilet and check the floor around the wax ring to see if it has been leaking.  A new wax ring only costs a few dollars.  When was the last time you caulked the shower in that bathroom?  The water can leak around the corners or at the door (if you have one) and travel along the floor joists until it pools in a lower spot on the ceiling below, then seep through.  It could also be a seal at the drain of the tub or shower. 

I get a few calls a year for this sort of thing.  It's usually something simple but can be a nightmare to diagnose, especially if the problem is intermittent.  Start with the simple possibilities and use deductive reasoning to narrow the possibilities.  Before you do a lot of damage it may pay off to hire a reputable contractor to help you make sure you've exhausted all of the imple and more obvious possibilities.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Cleaning reviews in Howard Lake


Howard Lake Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
was fantastic! Our toilet was clogged on a Saturday - we spent all evening with a plunger and a snake to try and fix it ourselves. After admitting defeat, we called
Howard Lake Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
(at around 8:30 p.m.). We reached his answering service and left a message and he called us back in about 2 minutes and then was at our house an hour later (no kidding - it was amazing).
He was very personable, professional, and charged a very reasonable fee. He definitely saved our weekend, as we had out-of-town guests arriving and being down one bathroom would have been a bummer.
I would definitely recommend him to my friends and neighbors and will use him again in the future if the need arises.
- Tammy K.

We were very pleased with the service. He ran a camera line down the drain and showed us the results. He was very honest and told us cleaning the line would do nothing and only charged us for the service call. We truly appreciate honest companies that do not overcharge for unnecessary work.
- Nicole W.

They came to my residence and proceeded to ask where the sewer was located in the street. They then said that they could not perform the job as they did not have enough cable as it could be over 100 feet. They recommended a company called Drain Surgeons, who they said could take care of our problem. (As it turned out the cabling of the drain required less than 50 feet)
We did end up using Drain Surgeons which was a HUGE mistake. For more information you may read my review of Drain Surgeons that I have just posted.
I feel that
Howard Lake Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
tag teams with Drain Surgeons and both are unscrupulous in their business practices.
- Donna G.

Hi have used
Howard Lake Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
as my plumber for years for my residence and my rental properties.
Howard Lake Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
is a one man operation, but cares about the quality of the work that he performs and always offers good advice. You may have to leave a message, but
Howard Lake Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
is always able to get back with you and get the job done, anytime of day or night.
- Jason B.

They were completely professional, on time and took care of the problem. I would hire this company again. I have worked with them in the past they have cleared out my drainage to the sewer as well, this was not the first time. They guarantee their work as well.
- Martha E.

Excellent, very professional & arrived on time. Have used them since then for various plumbing jobs. They are always reasonably priced & can do most anything regarding plumbing. The plumbers they sent out are experienced, friendly & very knowledgeable. I have recommended them to my friends & family.
- Marlene D.

Very professional service. Prompt. Service person very professional. Telephoned prior to arrival. Explained all repairs. Service vehicle clean and well marked with company name. Highly recommend.
- lynn H.

Howard Lake Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
is AWESOME because
Howard Lake Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
is committed to doing the job right. Our water heater broke down two days before the
Howard Lake Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
4th weekend. He was recommended by our home warranty company. First, the insurance company told him that he needed to just replace a part. He called around and tried to get the part, but it had been discontinued everywhere (due to the age of the water heater). Once he determined that the water heater needed to be replaced, he had to get approval for a new one. He spent an hour on the phone dealing with the insurance company (because they had a new employee who didn’t know how to process the claim). He wouldn’t give up. He knew we were in a bind, because if we didn’t get the water heater by the next day, everything would be closed for the holiday weekend. He did this despite the fact that he had a couple more jobs after us which would take him well into the evening to finish.
The next day, he pulled the permit, replaced the water heater and did all of the building code upgrades so that we had hot water for the holiday weekend. He is friendly and really knows what he is doing.
Howard Lake Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
is awesome!
- Anna D.

Drain Cleaning Companies in Howard Lake, MN

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

2 Guys Plumbing & Heating, Inc

712 6th St
Howard Lake

A & A Aron Plumbing

12932 2nd Ave S

A+ Aaron's Heating and Cooling

PO Box 48104

Abel Plumbing LLC

PO Box 74

Advance Plumbing Inc

8823 Zealand Ave N
Brooklyn Park

Al's Check Cashing

1434 93rd Ln NE

American Eagle Plumbing Inc

1113 Madison Ave SW

American Sewer LLC

9001 Emerson Ave. S

Ask Nigel

P.O box. 26143

Aufbauen, LLC

19745 Sweetwater Curve

Aztec Exteriors LLC

856 Magnolia Ave E
St. Paul

B & D Plumbing & Heating

4145 Mackenzie Ct NE
Saint Michael


1906 Bayview Dr
Albert Lea

Bill Rascher Mechanical

4921 Babcock Trail
Inver Grove Heights



C. Hansen Plumbing LLC

PO Box 845
Forest Lake

City View Plumbing & Heating

1880 B W Wayzata Blvd
Long Lake

CityView Property Services

4705 Pebble Beach Way
Saint Paul

Ck Remodeling & Maintenance

309 Harrison Ave
Saint Paul

Cool Contractors Network

16287 Ipava Avenue

Coppin Sewer & Water


Coyle Plumbing & Drain Cleaning

15614 54th St NE
Saint Michael

Cutting Edge Sewer & Drain LLC

680 Ironton St NE



DeVine's Plumbing Service

5236 200th St N
Forest Lake

DuctWorks Heating & Air Conditioning, LLC

6108 Olson Memorial Hwy

Eagan A-Aaron's

1303 Easter Ln
Saint Paul

Ende Septic Service, LLC

24910 Territorial Road

Finken Water

PO Box 7190
Saint Cloud

GN Excavating Inc

25614 Goodwin Rd

Green Clean

7229 University Ave



Handy Home Repair

9020 Pillsbury Ave. S.

Heating & Plumbing A-aron

20750 Hollins Ave W

Hokanson Plumbing & Heating

1550 91st Ave NE

Hopke Sewer & Drain Inc

5242 Credit River Rd
Prior Lake

Huber Plumbing & Heating

2751 Lamphere Dr

J.C Mechanical LLC

10717 France Ave S


3301 N 2ND ST

Jayco Plumbing Inc

10510 Hidden Valley Dr

Jeremiah Stevens Construction LLC

112 12th ave nw
Saint Paul


18256 South Diamond Lake Ct

Ken Smersh Plumbing LLC

28564 lily st nw

Kok Lee Plumbing

306 Ruby Dr
Saint Paul

Legend Services Inc

201 N Medina St

Maple Grove A-Aaron's

13500 Grove Dr #301

Mr. Rooter of The Twin Cities

5155 East River Rd Ste 412

My Plumber Inc

18948 Radford St


670 Tonkawa Rd
Long Lake

Nicholas Feely Construction LLC

7263 East Fish Lake Rd.

Norblom Plumbing

1465 Selby Ave
St. Paul

North Central Plumbing Inc

28177 146th St NW

Northern Edge Plumbing & Service LLC

31344 103rd St

Odor Medic

27635 Island View Rd.

One Good Guy Plumbing

3643 Tyler Street NE

One Hour Rooter

10701 93rd Ave N Ste J
Maple Grove

Palace Restoration Inc

12527 Central Ave. NE


1216 82nd Ave N

Plumbing Specialist LLC

14017 Quince St. NW

Plymouth A-Aaron's

3300 Plymouth Blvd

Precision Contracting

8351 Lake Dr
Circle Pines

Pronto Heating & Air Conditioning

7588 Washington Avenue S
Eden Prairie

Quality Plumbing & Heating

17525 Swedish Dr NE

Quality Touch painting & home cleaners

103 Orchard St S

R C Hoffman Plumbing

5252 Lakeview Ave
Saint Paul

Reliable Property Maint & Home Svc LLc

3085 Cardinal Cove Dr


6319 Cambridge St.


6028 42ND AVE N


4958 County Rd 8 SE
St. Cloud

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

1821 University Ave
Saint Paul

Rotz Septic

PO Box 413
Elk River

Schmitz Home Services LLC

6230 Elm Tree Ave

Septic Check

6074 Keystone Road

Signature Mechanical Inc

8260 Arthur St NE

St Paul A-Aaron's

376 Aurora Ave
Saint Paul

Standard Heating & Air Conditioning Inc

130 Plymouth Ave N

Swedlund Septic Services

25648 200th Street
Belle Plaine


5720 W 35 1/2 ST

USA Mechanical

1710 N 5th St
Saint Peter


Saint Michael

Viking Sewer and Drain

23005 137th Avenue North

WBL Home Improvement

4550 Evergreen Dr

Weld & Sons Plumbing

3410 Kilmer Ln N

White Bear Heating

5051 Stewart Ave
White Bear Lake


Saint Paul

Your Handyman


YTS Companies LLC

14310 Northdale Blvd

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Howard Lake Zip Codes

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