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Local Articles in Akeley

Hiring an HVAC service

The awkward-to-pronounce acronym stands for "heating, ventilation and air conditioning" which in many respects are completely different processes.

HVAC technician at work

HVAC Maintenance

You can help your home's heating and cooling systems work more efficiently and last longer by tending to regular maintenance. Some tasks, such as changing the furnace filter, can easily be done by the homeowner.

Kitchen exhaust fan

Home exhaust fans don't just remove stale odors. They also help improve indoor air quality.

Asking the right questions ahead of time can save you from problems during your new furnace installation. (Photo by Summer Galyan)

You got three bids for furnace or A/C replacement, but you’re not sure which is best? Ask yourself and contractor these four questions to pick the right one.

Smart thermostat controls

Are there any savings to be had with a smart thermostat?

Air Duct Cleaning

Everything you need to know about regularly changing your HVAC filter and air duct cleaning.

Angie's Answers

There are many questions to answer before anyone can give you a price for your new system.  It's like calling a dealership and asking how much a new car is.  They need more details, too.

Call a few HVAC contractors in your area and ask for bids to replace your system.  Ask them what they recommend and why.  Then compare apples to apples.  A higher efficiency system will cost you more up front but will save you more on your energy bill.  However, be warned that some of the super high efficiency systems don't typically pay off in savings due to their higher parts and service costs down the road.

Be leary of contractors who quote you prices over the phone or internet without looking at your home.  They may be either inexperienced or will hit you with higher costs once on site due to things they didn't plan for and easily could have if they had just looked at the job in advance.  Many of the big box stores do this with their installation services for all kinds of things.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
The only thing of importance, is the hvac professional you choose to use. Alot of manufacturer's pieces are built relatively the same, and will last about the same amount of time. The thing that matters most is what you can not compare between companies, and that is the installation. Purchasing a system is not like purchasing a car, where no matter where you buy it, they are all the same. Each installation is different, and usually what you are paying for is the level of expertise, and quality of the installation, the company who will actual give you the warranty, and the comfort that you will receive. Manufacturers warranties disappear every day. They always have a loophole where they can get out of paying, but your local dealer wants to keep you happy for future work, and to protect his reputation in the communiy. Look up 4 year old Nordyne and Goodman warranty problems. Choose the HVAC professional first. It will cost you the least in the long run. I have had to totally redo plenty of installations that were just performed because of an uncomfortable customer, and a system that keeps breaking down. The equipment is only as good as it's installation, and over 70% are not installed correctly.
Yes Jupiter. It depends on the severity of the situation, is the mold encapsulated in the insulation. If yes, than replace [insulation] it with new. Is it on the casing of the heater? If yes, clean it with a mold neutralizing metal cleaner. It's not a matter of finding something or someone to clean or address the existing mold. It's a matter of finding a contractor to rectify what is causing the mold grow. It's coming from excessive moisture in the air-handler unit. I can say with 100% surety you’re dealing with poor airflow and/or incorrect equipment sizing! Either issue will cause excessive icing of the evaporator coil, which leads to excessive condensate water in the system. The condensate will eventually overflow the drain pan leaving stagnant water in the air-handler housing, which leads to mold growth. I would not let any contractor do any kind of temporary repair, add any device like a UV light or air-cleaning product until the aforementioned is corrected. I talk a lot about this in my videos and on my website. It is the result of improper system design from unqualified contractors. There is a reason why some guys cost more than others, and this is one reason why!

I'd rate them equal,or close,as with several other brands. I'd be more concerned about the difference in installation and service down the road. Difficult to determine the difference ,but asking for detailed info about their installation,may convince you to choose one over the other.

The Dept. of Energy states that poor installations can cause a 30% efficiency loss! Plus with Gas their are saftey issues,venting properly etc.,and of couse the need for a "low Level" Carbon Monoxide Alarm.
I think maybe you are confusing SEER, which is an efficiency-related rating (higher SEER means more effective use of the electric power used to compress the gas), and TONS rating, which is a measure of the total cooling power of the system. (Tons used to mean how many tons per hour of ice was used in evaporative cooling building systems - a Refrigeration or Cooling Ton equals 12,000 Btu/Hour of energy exchange. A BTU, which is another antique measure but still used, is the energy needed to change the temperature of a pound of water one degree fahrenheit. Unfortunately, because of varying humidity and evaporation, this is not readily related to house air heating or cooling without a lot of assumptions and some computations. Relating this to today's world - the Manuals BayAreaAc referred to account for all these energy conversions and determine an estimated cooling (or heating) requirement for your specific house. The type of construction, solar exposure, general climatic conditions such as average temperatures, humidity, and hottest and coldest normal ambient temperatures and desired inside temperture are all taken into account in the more sophisticated versions of the analysis, so there is no "standard", though a rough old rule of thumb was about 1 ton of cooling per 500SF of house. Obviously, this was a WAG only because it did not account for insulation, type of roofing, whether you live in Alaska or Miami, etc. The ACCA manuals do a very simplified form of evaluation to arrive at a "design", which generally will be adequate. OF course, highly precise calculations are not really needed because A/C units generally come in even ton ratings - so if you are at say 2.6 ton requirement you will be getting a 3-ton unit anyway. SEER ratings are not a direct measure of efficiency, but the relative difference between ratings gives you good idea of the unit's relative efficency in using electricity - so a 16 SEER should be about 19% more efficient (so roughly comparable lower electricity bill) than a comparably sized 13 SEER unit. 13 SEER is the lowest efficiency currently allowed to be built for general use, 19 SEER is about the highest efficiency made by pretty much all manufacturers, and about 25 SEER is the highest rated though very pricey shelf-item units, though special construction custom units can reach about 30 SEER. Note however, like any government sponsored rating, much of it is hooey when you get down to it - for instance, SEER ratings are figured based on 80 degree inside air temp and 82 degrees outside, when that is far from the normal case of mid to low seventies inside and high eighties or above outdoors. This makes the absolute SEER rating meaningless, but relative numbers still have meaning in comparing units. Note these efficiency ratings are for conventional air conditoners and heat pumps working in ambient air conditions. Ground sourced Geothermal or lake/river exchange cooling units, though initially more expensive in most cases, can greatly exceed the air-exchange unit efficiencies because they are exchanging heat with cold natural water rather than with a high-temperature outside air, and instead of continually compressing a gas are just circulating cold water. I worked on one geothermal cooling project which had almost infinite efficiency, which of course makes no sense - but the only power was for sensors and a control valve as the water flow was single-pass under gravity flow, so no power was used to circulate the water.

Assuming you already have an installed units with all ductwork and so forth, small square footage furnace and AC can generally run anywhere form $2000-$5000 for each unit, or about $4000-10000 for a combined unit, depending on ease of installation, etc. This assumes your existing plumbing, electrical, ductwork, etc are directed suitable, so it is merely a matter of cutting  in a new unit and hooking it up. The lowest price would be for a minimally efficient unit, the upper number for highest efficiency.

If you are changing the type of heat (baseboard to forced air or electric to gas, for instance) or installing AC from scratch, then running power, ductwork, etc can up to double that number.

If you live near the coast (and depending on how hot you will let the condo get before cooling kicks in) the cost savings of a high efficiency unit might not pay for itself. Of course, if you are in the San Gabriel Mountains and really need winter heat, or in the Mohave desert or inland valley area and really need serious air conditioning, then a high efficiency unit (which can cost twice as much) might pay for itself in 5-10 years.

Your utility company (companies if gas heat with electric AC) can help with guides on how much your savings might be with different efficiencies, and may have an energy efficiency rebate program for efficient units. Also, the California Energy Commission has information and online calculators for that, as well as rebate programs for energy efficiency. There is also a federal energy efficiency rebate program (though it is generally limited to a tax credit equal to 10% of the cost of energy efficient retrofits, unless it is considered an "alternative energy" system). Pay attnetion to these energy rebate programs - I have a neighbor who, between state and federal program, had the entire cost of his insulation upgrade and furnace/hot wate heater system replacement covered in toto, except for few hundred $ for the initial energy audit. About $8000 in work for about $300, with about $100/month reduction in gas bills.

As always with condo units, check with the condo manager and the bylaws to find out what the rules are - some condos require matching units or installation by a certain contractor for ease of maintenance, and in many condos the heating and AC are actually the responsibility of the condo association or the bylaws require that the association handle the installation but you pay the cost, etc. Also, major work of this type usually has to be coordinated with the condo manager, and there may be time of day limitations on work hours, etc.

And of course make sure your HVAC contractor, if you end up choosing him, is licensed, bonded, insured, and well recommended, and whether any repairs to walls, floors, ceiling etc necessitated by replacing the system are or are not covered in his bid (he would subcontract this out, or more likely tell you that you need a general contractor to supervize plumber, electrician, plasterer, painter, flooring contractor, etc).

HVAC Contractors in Akeley, MN

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!




PO Box 202

Bar Visions

384 S 9th St

Blown-In Insulation

1694 Leon Drive


Detroit Lakes

Brainerd Pipe Supply,Inc.

13917 Shawkia Drive

Champlin Plumbing & Heating

21418 River Rd
Grand Rapids

Corrins Plbg * Htg

445 4th St
International Falls




PO BOX 22515


21956 COUNTY

Five Star Mechanical

375 SE HWY 1

Grand Rapids Tire and Auto

525 NE 4th St
Grand Rapids

Houg J Plumbing & Heating Inc

35048 Wabana Rd
Grand Rapids

Innovative Dr. Energy Saver

1100 Holstein Dr
Pine City

J & K Services

Pine City


1775 Dandelion lane sw

Johnson Heating And Air Conditioning

1430 Frank Avenue
Albert Lea


33467 415TH AVE
Sauk Centre


172 Spirit Ave NW


20479 Pottery Rd NW

Osmonson Heating & A/C

404 East Main
Sleepy Eye

Paul Davis Restoration & Remodeling

25130 County Hwy 6
Detroit Lakes

Pequot Auto Repair

4599 Morehouse Dr
Pequot Lakes

Peterson Sheet Metal Inc

3728 Bemidji Ave N

Rapids Plumbing & Heating, Inc.

25767 Us Highway 2
Grand Rapids

Ron Molde Electric

7022 County Rd 15 SW


922 6TH ST NE

Samuelson Laney Plumbing, Heating & Cooling, Inc.

1602 Commerce Ave South
Park Rapids

Sandhill Heating Plumbing Inc

403 Mossefin St

Seaberg Heating Inc.

18083 324th Ave
Detroit Lakes

Smart Energy Solutions

302 Court of Elm

SP Olson Heating & Air Cond Inc

1680 W Winona Rd SW

Speedy Plumbing Service Inc

PO BOX 0363


4801 Woodway

The Finished Look

1235 Birch St.

Tri-County Heating & Air LLC

46274 331st Ave

Ugstad Plumbing Inc

3209 E Fir Ave
Fergus Falls

Vent and Cover

306-7337 137 st


23351 285th Ave

W N Plbg & Htg Inc

203 E Conan St


12637 S 265 W Suite 100

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