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F
"We paid $185.00 for
to video our main sewer line to see if it was blocked (sewer was backing up into our basement). The tech came out and" it took him literally minutes to run his camera and tell me that the lines were open and the problem was our septic system (he could see water)...he told me the drain field had failed and they could jet our drain field lines for a few hundred dollars more. In the end, we changed out our septic tank because it wasn't to code, and the main line was crushed right where the
Drain tech said was the entrance to the tank. The "object" he was hitting was crushed/plugged pipe--not the tank. This was a complete waste of $185.00 and it could have been a complete waste of more $ if we had listened to them. When they ran water to our drainfield, it was performing great. The bottom line is he told me the line was clear and it wasn't. If we had listened to them, it would have costs us thousands of dollars "fixing" something that wasn't broken and we'd still have our original problem...it seems like the tech was in a big hurry and if we hadn't been suspicious it would have ended up much worse--and it's taken this long to write a review because everytime I think about it, it just makes me mad.

-Stephanie S.

A
"Everything from the women answering the phone, to the wonderful gentleman who preformed the work was excellent. They were prompt, and friendly. I will recommend this company to all my friends.

-gina S.

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Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

?
FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
www.thomeservices.com
?
It is usually cheaper to remove part of the ceiling below and patch it after the leak has been repaired.  Remember that water can travel before settling in one area, causing the spot you've seen.  Just because it is below the toilet does not mean that the toilet is the problem.  The cheapest option is to pull the toilet and check the floor around the wax ring to see if it has been leaking.  A new wax ring only costs a few dollars.  When was the last time you caulked the shower in that bathroom?  The water can leak around the corners or at the door (if you have one) and travel along the floor joists until it pools in a lower spot on the ceiling below, then seep through.  It could also be a seal at the drain of the tub or shower. 

I get a few calls a year for this sort of thing.  It's usually something simple but can be a nightmare to diagnose, especially if the problem is intermittent.  Start with the simple possibilities and use deductive reasoning to narrow the possibilities.  Before you do a lot of damage it may pay off to hire a reputable contractor to help you make sure you've exhausted all of the imple and more obvious possibilities.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Cleaning reviews in Wyoming

A

Rating
Superbly--Provider made two visits in one day to ensure problem was solved successfully. Very polite, responsive and unbeatable value for the money.
- Thornton B.
A

Rating
They did a great job. Called ahead the day of the appointment and arrived timely. I showed them the drain and they snaked it out and our water is now running free. They were friendly and professional and made a few suggestions for how to keep things flowing. I would definitely use them again.
- Ryan J.
A

Rating
Wyoming Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
was professional from the first job, so I asked him to do another job in a different location. The
Wyoming Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
job we thought, ended up to be challenging because of the environment (the uncertain water valve, shared with neighbors in a condo). However, he was very calm, patient and creative to complete the job. Not only his excellent jobs, but also I was impressed by his professionalism in behavior; I'd be happy to hire him again.
- Akiko T.
A

Rating
The water pressure, especially the hot water, in our house was terrible. I realized that we needed to replace the piping, but was afraid I couldn't afford to because our house is so large. I got several estimates, and the best was from Bill
Wyoming Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
at
Wyoming Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
. The replacement included three complete bathrooms, two kitchens, a laundry room, and all outside spigots. A team of eight men arrived at 8:30 a.m. They turned off the water at 9 a.m. They spread out throughout the house, locating all the
Wyoming Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
pipes. They had to cut quite a few holes in the drywall, but they explained all of this ahead of time and made sure I understood what they were doing. They ran new PEX piping to every location and put new 1/4-turn valves on everything. This was a huge relief since I'd been worried about causing a leak if I had to turn off one of the old valves at a toilet or sink. There were a couple of locations where the old valves were wedged inside the interior of the cabinet, and were impossible to turn, and Bill's men repositioned them so that they can now be turned on and off. The holes they had cut in the walls were being patched as fast as the new pipes were installed. By 3:30 p.m., the new piping was all in, the holes were all patched, and the water was turned back on, with no leaks. I couldn't believe it! The hole patching didn't include texturizing and paint, and since I didn't want to do that myself, I hired half of Bill's crew to come out the next day to do that part. By the end of that day, you couldn't even tell there had ever been any holes in the wall. Two weeks later, I had Bill's crew come back to replace the old cast iron pipe from the house to the water meter. This was not an easy job, since the water meter is in the middle of our cement driveway. Everything was completed during that day. It is so wonderful to finally have excellent water pressure! What I liked best about
Wyoming Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
was that I felt they had complete knowledge of all aspects of their job, and I felt like I could trust them to accomplish their job, and handle any problems that might come up. I also had complete trust in their professionalism and was comfortable with them having the run of my house. I plan on using them for any other plumbing problems, or new service, I might need.
- Denys W.
A

Rating
When the floor drain in our basement backed up we were left unable to use the dishwasher upstairs or the washing machine downstairs. I called a bunch of places on angie's and found one that would come out the next day ... but they would not quote me a price on the phone. Not even a ballpark figure. They told me that they did not charge by the hour but by the job and would make an assessment and quote me a price after they had looked at our drain. This did not sit well with me and sure enough when I took a closer look at their reviews I saw several people who felt they'd been badly overcharged but agreed to pay because they'd taken time off from work to meet with the company or just wanted to be done with it or whatever.
I canceled that particular appointment and ended up talking to
Wyoming Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
, or "
Wyoming Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
" as his company is known. I told him my situation and he quoted me a price over the phone and agreed to squeeze me into an already packed schedule. I liked the idea that he seemed more like a one-man operation and I didn't have to go through a receptionist or any kind of corporate mumbo
Wyoming Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
.
Anyway,
Wyoming Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
came out, snaked my drain, charged me what he'd said he'd charge me, and that was that. Good to go. Would definitely go with him again..
- cynthia B.
D

Rating
.The drain cleaner,
Wyoming Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
, called me and we scheduled the drain cleaning for the next morning. He arrived on time, but when I asked him about the drain cover, he said that Bill did not tell him about the need for a drain cover.
Wyoming Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
also said that he could not just bring a drain cover. He would need to take measurements first and then obtain the proper sized cover. I told him that Bill had only asked me if the drain was round or square. We agreed that he would clear the drain, for which I would pay the $109, and return to install the drain cover and contact me for the agreed upon $26 payment. I even called Bill after
Wyoming Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
had left to let him know that I still needed a drain cover and what
Wyoming Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
had said he would do. Bill said the job would be completed and I would be contacted. Well, after 5 calls made by me over the course of 6 days explaining my situation to either Bill,
Wyoming Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
or
Wyoming Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
, all of whom assured me the drain cover would be installed, I was finally told by Bill that the cost for the drain cover would not be $26, but $140! When I asked why the huge price change, I was told that since he had to send someone out again, that would be the cost. I said, NO THANKS!
- Paul D.
C

Rating
pipe did not need to be snaked as recommended; I saw only scant amt removed. owner felt talked into having this done (was $125). work done but had to return same day as leaking continued. shortly after that an additional 3 separate house calls had to be done over the course of 3 to 5 wks due to same problem. the young guys that came to fix it were professional and nice but had accidently snagged my
Wyoming Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
kitchen rug on his boot buckle; had to be replaced w/ another one. I showed him what happened as he sat w/ his boots facing downwards while working under the sink. previous workers sat cross-legged so it was not a problem. although it was an accident, the guy acknowledged it and apologized. I didn't make a big fuss at the time b/c I thought I would take it up w/ the owner.
I took photos of the rug damage, bought an exact replacement for $32 and sent--via my cell phone--a copy of the receipt and photos of the rug. In the end, the woman who answers the phone would never let me speak to the owner and she continued to play text tag. I never received a check which I requested. No, I would not ever use them again because they failed to take responsibility for damage. Although the money I requested was small, it's the principal of the situation and hence, they fail to be a credible company based on my own experience.
- Marsha G.
A

Rating
They ran about an hour late but that wasn't a big deal. I took the whole day off anyway. The crew was courteous, friendly, and replaced a pipe that they thought was questionable that I was not aware of. They also did a great job of cleaning up. I don't know if the price was fair or not because I don't have anything to compare it to. That is the only reason I gave it a B. Anyway you look at it $465 is a lot of money! I just called them again today to get my basement drain cleaned out. Definitely recommend.
- Ryan S.

Drain Cleaning Companies in Wyoming, MI

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A+ Plumbing & Mechanical

2671 116th Avenue
Allegan

A-Cook's Plumbing Heating & Cooling

4000 Alpine Ave. NW
Comstock Park

ADVANCED SERVICES CORP

208 KIDD ST
Ionia

All Area Plumbing LLC

1915 Pinegrove Dr.
Jenison

All-Flo Plumbing

2130 Three Mile Rd. NE
Grand Rapids

All-Pro Plumbing & Heating

292 Main St
Coopersville

BOSMA BROTHERS PLUMBING

3042 STAFFORD AVE SW
Grand Rapids

BUDGET PLUMBING

4160 40th Ave.
Hudsonville

Charon Repairs

PO Box 342
Grandville

Custom Upgrades, LLC.

747 44th St SW
Wyoming

DEFRELL PLUMBING INC

16983 STANTON ST
West Olive

Doctor Rooter

908 Orchard Ave
Muskegon

Foundation Specialist LLC

2925 28th St SE
Grand Rapids

G R Metro Plumbing LLC

1918 Rogue River Rd NE
Belmont

Godwin Plumbing Inc.

3703 S Division Ave.
Grand Rapids

Griffin Sewer

846 Dorchester ave sw
Grand Rapids

Herrema & Sons Plumbing

2691 Division Ave S
Grand Rapids

KENTWOOD PLUMBING & HEATING

3411 32ND ST SE
Grand Rapids

McDonald Plumbing

7791 Eastern Ave SE
Grand Rapids

Midwest Heating & Cooling

1625 Walker NW
Grand Rapids

Miller Pumping LLC

11007 Chicago Dr
Zeeland

Mr Plumber LLC

1508 Philadelphia SE
Grand Rapids

Mr. Rooter Plumbing of GR

900 Pannell Ave NW
Grand Rapids

NYSTROM BUILDERS LLC

5995 12 Mile Rd NE
Rockford

Oberlin Plumbing

11719 N. Lakeview Rd

Paul J Sommerdyke Plumbing Inc

1011 Grandville Ave Sw
Grand Rapids

Peter Somerdyke Plumbing

3555 32nd St
Grand Rapids

Petersen Plumbing & Heating Inc

1610 Coit Ave NE
Grand Rapids

Plumbing Professors

40665 Koppernick Rd.
Canton

Plummer's Waste Group

4750 Clyde Park Ave SW
Wyoming

RAPID ROOTER PLUMBING

2479 152nd Ave
Holland

Scotts Plumbing Drain Rescue

10690 summit ave
Rockford

Septic Works

4755 Egner Ave
Cedar Springs

The Service Professor Inc

4770 50th Street SE
Grand Rapids

Total Interiors

491 Houston St
Muskegon

Vander Hyde

1058 Scribner Ave NW
Grand Rapids

Whitney Electric & Plumbing

3120 Kenyon Ln
Middleville

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