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A
"Mircea was punctual, professional, hard working and very personable. He put in things like
mobile charging outlets inside our custom cabinetry" in our kitchen/dining area. He was sensitive to my fussy, designer choices and he went out of his way to accommodate how picky I am. I felt very confident in his abilities—especially as my husband and I worked by his side due to the integrated millwork and custom nature of the work. I would recommend him as a very experienced and solid electrician for a wide variety of projects. Overall, he was super helpful and had a great attitude making him a pleasure to have in our home.

-Michele A.

A
"We were so impressed with the careful and thorough attention given to this complicated job. Our older home badly needed this attention. It was a three day job" involving work inside and outside with very cold weather. The two workers were highly skilled, courteous, hard working, responsible about cleaning up, and clear in explaining all we needed to know about the system's new features.

-Thomas J.

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Local Articles in Okemos

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

The most important benefit of upgrading your electrical system is that your home will be protected from fire hazards caused by overloaded circuits. (Photo courtesy of Point Loma Electric)
Electrical

Don’t wait for sparks to fly; learn the right way to tell if your electric system is in need of an upgrade

Electrical work is extremely dangerous, so make sure you hire a licensed pro for work around the home.
Electrical

If you discover that you have an old Federal Pacific breaker box, a faulty circuit breaker or an outdated fuse box, how much can you expect to pay to have a qualified electrician replace it?

electrical wiring
Electrical

Electrical work requires trade knowledge and following code regulations in most states

outdoor lighting electricity
Lighting, Electrical

If you're experiencing electrical problems in your home or want to add capacity for new projects, consider hiring an electrician for these four services.

Angie's Answers

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Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

?

An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

?

If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

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Electrical reviews in Okemos

D

Rating
I had three projects for them on my "electrician for a day deal", probably ambitious but I figured they would get to two. Upon ariival it was pretty clear that only one of the crew was really a trained electrician the other one was his son. I thought the deal was for 8 hours of an electricians time not 4 hours of an electricians time and 4 hours of apprentices time. I showed them my first project which was installing three sconces in my living room. They accomplished this and I was generally happy with the work, however at 400 dollars it was more than lowes would have charged. I figured I would at least get a ceiling fan hung as well in 8 billable hours, no such luck. Cleanup was acceptable but they had to borrow my paper towels to do it. One of them kept leaving my door open (it was 28 degrees outside), also they presumed to park in my driveway without asking and my wife had to park in the street and carry the car seat in. Like I said, I am happy for the work they did hence the B rating for quality. That said I was not satisfied with the amount they accomplished or their professionalism on the job site and I feel I could have gotten the same job accomplished for less elsewhere.
- Adam S.
A

Rating
Excellent service! He fit us in the day after we bought his deal, called us about an earlier than expected arrival, and fixed the problems quickly.
- Lars J.
A

Rating
After much online searching I asked for an in-house survey by
Okemos Electricians Provider Name Locked
and Generac generators from local providers.
Okemos Electricians Provider Name Locked
from
Okemos Electricians Provider Name Locked
won my business. He quickly assessed what size generator was required for a whole house solution.
By putting the air-conditioner on a lower priority (the system would shut it down if demand went too high), I got by with a smaller unit.
This, also, allowed me to have all the electrical switching done at the meter and not at my inside panel.
The contract was signed and an install date selected. As is normal with me I had a few more questions.
Okemos Electricians Provider Name Locked
quickly answered them all by phone or email. The installation day arrived along with brutally cold weather conditions (5-10 F). They showed up around 9 AM and worked without a break till the job was done around 3 PM.
The installation crew (
Okemos Electricians Provider Name Locked
,
Okemos Electricians Provider Name Locked
and
Okemos Electricians Provider Name Locked
) were knowledgeable, friendly and took extra precaution to prevent damage to my home.

- Peter S.
D

Rating
When he first came out to perform the work he stated that it would cost more-$75 more. After he left, i though about it and i didnt understand why it would cost more, so i emailed him and he stated it was for supplies but he stated he would honor the deal. I also had him check an outlet to see if it was still working. When the work was done I asked him how much I owed and he said $225. I said I already paid via angies list, then I had to find the email stating he would honor the angies list offer. I owed for the outlet check and he did make another outlet out of the outlet he used to do the outside outlet. Not much extra work but i felt bad so I paid $75. And I am upset that i paid him now.
When he drilled into my house from the outside he splintered my thick baseboard and now it will have to be sanded down and repainted, he also cracked it all across the baseboard to the wall and that will have to be caulked. I found out later after asking a friend that he should have drilled the hole from the inside to make a hole and then gone outside to finish. Now, im stuck with fixing it myself.
Also, he left a huge mess of brick dust outside and in my foyer.When i asked him how to clean up the brick dust he said pour water on it. And there was also a pile of dirt left near the area that he worked on inside my house. I had to clean everything up. He went to the basement to look at the electrical panel but he did not write which was the outside outlet.
I did not notice the baseboard until after he left. I am angry that he did not even acknowledge it. Also, why did he tell me I owed $225??? I feel like he was just making up numbers. 80% of the time he was on the phone. I had to interrupt his phone conversations more than 2x to ask him about the job. I also felt like the job took too long because he was talking on the phone.
- Victoria M.
A

Rating
Extremely professional and prompt. Best electricians I have ever worked with!! Very neat and did a great job. I intend to use this company again in the future and highly recommend their services!! They are FANTASTIC!!!!
- Merrill B.
A

Rating
I am a VERY SATISFIED COSTUMER!!!
Okemos Electricians Provider Name Locked
installed all above items per my instructions will no problems. Both ceiling fixtures were swapping out old lighting fixtures with new ones. ALL can and fan installations were NEW cutouts and wiring. Took 2 men approx. 2 days for completion. I HIGHLY recommend
Okemos Electricians Provider Name Locked
.
- vito A.
A

Rating
They were honest and provided prove of the work I needed as well as a very specific explanation of the detail work required.
- Marlen S.
A

Rating
Showed up on time…very responsive to needs…clean work….no debris left and
no hand
Okemos Electricians Provider Name Locked
on surrounding areas.
- allan G.

All Electricians in Okemos, MI

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A & L LOCKSMITH LLC

415 W MOUNT HOPE AVE
Lansing

A-OK MECHANICAL

5601 Aurelius Rd
Lansing

Aladdin

4809 James McDivitt
Jackson

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave SE

All Auto Service

918 S Pennsylvania
Lansing

All Star Mechanical

300 N Jenison Ave
Lansing

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

Applegate Home Comfort

1096 Highview Dr
Webberville

Arrowhead Homes

4679 Eaton River Trail
Eaton Rapids

B & C Woodworks

123 Palmer St
Rives Junction

BACH ELECTRIC

PO BOX 521
Haslett

Bel Company

504 Snapdragon Ln.
Dewitt

Bob Fox Home Improvement

1126 W Rundle Ave
Lansing

Bohnet Electric Co

2918 N Grand River Ave
Lansing

Boss Construction

8254 Lockerbie Rd.
Parma

Brand Builders

1525 W Kinsel Hwy
Charlotte

Brennan Electric

11325 Easton Road

BROCKHAUS ELECTRIC

455 JADE DR
Lansing

C & K ELECTRIC

3793 W M-21
Saint Johns

C & S Electric

10040 Krouse Rd
Ovid

CABLE TELEVISON-COMCAST

1217 GREENWOOD AVE
Jackson

Cantrall Can The Handy Man

5912 Schafer Rd
Lansing

Capitol City Electric Co Inc

821 E Kalamazoo St
Lansing

CARPENTRY INC BUILDERS

1900 W PRICE RD
Saint Johns

CARTRIDGE WORLD

2160 W GRAND RIVER AVE
Okemos

Champion Window of Grand Rapids

4717 Broadmoor Ave SE
Grand Rapids

Comfort First Heating & Cooling, Inc.

3375 N. Waverly Rd.
Lansing

CONSOLIDATED ELECTRICAL CONTRS

1095 MAK TECH DR
Lansing

CRAFT ELECTRIC

1310A Falahee Rd
Jackson

CRITES TIDEY & ASSOC INC

4700 ARDMORE AVE
Okemos

CUSTOM ELECTRIC

2214 DEPOT ST
Holt

David Brownfield Electric

11475 Bauer Rd
Eagle

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

Duffy Electric

5901 E St Joe Hwy
Grand Ledge

EB Companies

16050 Center Rd
East Lansing

Elite Electrical Contracting

1404 W. Dill Rd.
Dewitt

Emil's Electric Inc

2947 Jolly Rd
Okemos

Exquisite Designs

47332 Sterdley Falls

FD HAYES ELECTRIC COMPANY

2301 BEAL AVE
Lansing

Flame Furnace Company

2200 E Eleven Mile Rd
Warren

garys auto

3678 E Hiawatha Dr
Okemos

Geek Squad - Best Buy

8487 W GRAND RIVER AVE
Brighton

Great Lakes Residential Services

1328 Bennett Rd
Lansing

Hager Fox Heating & Air Conditioning Co

1435 Diamond Reo Way
Lansing

HAGER-FOX ELECTRIC CO

1137 HACO DR
Lansing

Hirst Electric Co.

2326 Brooklyn Rd.
Jackson

Holt Home Improvement

4855 Sugar Bush Ln.
Holt

Holt Plumbing LLC

4855 Sugar Bush Ln
Holt

Home Management Company (HMCo)

PO Box 4883
East Lansing

Home Wreckers Construction Co

2145 Georgetown Blvd
Lansing

Husband For A Day Inc

809 Worchester Dr
Fenton

Ion Electric Service LLC

305 E Grand River
Fowlerville

Jerry Swihart

9720 Deer Tr
Haslett

Jim Snay Electric

332 N Church St
Potterville

John-Boy Electric

517 W. Lovett Street
Charlotte

KENT MOTORS INC

204 HOMEWILD AVE
Jackson

Knopps Electric

8493 Oneida Rd
Grand Ledge

LENON ELECTRIC LLC

9901 Friegel Rd
Perry

Levinsohn Restoration & Remodeling Co

4410 Wilfors Dr
Williamston

Mack Electric

10025 Petrieville Hwy
Eaton Rapids

MARTY'S HANDYMAN and consulting service LLC

5624 S WASHINGTON AVE
Lansing

MASTER ELECTRICIAN

East Lansing

Mccreary's Healthy Homes

300 S Washington Sq
Lansing

McDowell's Tile

6430 Cheshire Dr
Dimondale

Metz Building & Development

6338 Layton RD
Fowlerville

Mike's Auto Care

2717 W Michigan Ave
Lansing

Mike's Technical Service

719 Cherry St
Charlotte

MILLS ELECTRIC & Construction LLC

3720 COUNTY FARM RD
Saint Johns

Miteff Plumbing

1717 Stoney Point Dr
Lansing

MONTGOMERY ELECTRIC

P.O. BOX 114
Williamston

Morey Plumbing

1113 Mc Cullough St
Lansing

Mr Electric

P.O.Box 219
Mt. Pleasant

Nick's Home Improvements

4197 Watson Avenue
Holt

Northern Home Improvement

1040 Mak-Tech Dr
Lansing

NOVA

4864 HILLCREST AVE
Okemos

Palmer Construction

2360 Jolly Oak Rd
Okemos

Quality Contractors USOM

1716 Wildwood Ave
Jackson

RB Auto Repair

209 BAKER ST
Lansing

SAVOIE BUILDERS

4322 GREENWOOD DR
Okemos

Scholl Electric LLC

7300 Carter Road
Spring Arbor

Sparky's Electric LLC

4849 Burt Avenue
Grand Ledge

Structure Tec

11685 Stow Rd

SUPERIOR ELECTRIC GREAT LAKES

2175 JOLLY RD
Okemos

TEACHOUT BUILDERS INC.

1758 S. Royston Rd.
Eaton Rapids

Thee Electric Co

1574 Haslett Rd
Haslett

Trusted Improvement

24300 Catherine Industrial Dr.
Novi

Tylers Construction Services LLC

6580 Spring Arbor Rd
Jackson

W.Rick Construction

85 Munson road

Walgreens

1314 N West Ave
Jackson

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WARNER REMODELING

3011 HARPER RD
Mason

WEBB ELECTRICAL CO

PO Box 70866

WireWorks Inc

640 Whitehills Dr
East Lansing

Woodstone Builders

6460 Yorkshire Ln
Eaton Rapids

Zischke Builders

5325 Park Lake Rd
East Lansing

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