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A
"
answered my email request. He was the first to ask to look at the site, and requested photos of the current water heater. This is a cut above" what I experienced so far. He has his license # and is an approved BBB business member abiding to their standards. So far so good. I will write up a follow-up to this notation once the job is done. 5 days later: I think that this company is what you want when calling a local contractor. They were definitely professional, knowledgeable, and real in their customer service style. Fair pricing. Took questions in stride. Provided a competent journey man,
, and they were focused in their work in remove the old water heater, and install the new water heater. They even had to get another heater that would fit our small space without a complaint. We chose this company above two others. Their comments online uphold their business, standards for business practices meet the BBB's accountability requirements, and they handled the job professionally, and as customers with respect.

-Maria I.

A
"Called
, told him what I needed, and was quoted a cost of $90.
came right on time, saw the job, and after apologizing" for not having asked me if I already had a disposal (I didn't) said the price would be higher than quoted. However, he did an excellent job, and the cost to me was only $10 more than originally quoted...which was still $60 less than Lowes had quoted me. He also tested it, and cleaned up afterward. I would definitely hire him again! One more notation: his phone definitely is 256-684-9601 (Angie's List write-up on
wasn't sure of that.)

-Judith J.

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Local Articles in Gaylord

4 common plumbing scams and how to avoid them

Some plumbers are in the business just to make a quick buck. Here are four of the most common plumbing scams to watch out for and how to avoid them.

Hiring a Plumber

When you need a plumber, especially for an expensive project for which you have time to plan, make sure you hire one who is fully qualified and licensed in your state. A plumber may be an apprentice, a journeyman or a highly qualified master plumber, depending on the level of training and experience.

Food you shouldn't put in the garbage disposal
Plumbing

What do coffee grounds, pasta and liquid drain cleaner have in common? Their ability to damage your drain.

attractive kitchen with new faucet over sink
Plumbing, Remodeling - Kitchen & Bathroom

Dear Angie: How much would it cost to install a kitchen faucet? – Kelly W. of Washington, D.C.

water softener
Water Softeners, Plumbing

Does your water taste or look a little funky?

Today's faucets are easier than ever to install. It's removing the old one that gets tricky and may require a plumber. (Photo by Summer Galyan)
Plumbing

On the latest installment of Chat with the Experts, Terry Illy explains how to manage common plumbing problems such as leaky faucets and clogged drains.

Inspiration & Ideas

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bathroom remodel with double vessel sinks
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glass tile backsplash in bathroom

Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

Plumber reviews in Gaylord

A

Rating
I called on a Saturday morning when our bathroom drains were backed up and was told someone would be there within 2 hours. They came in about an hour, were professional, unclogged the drain from the sewer line outside the house, solved our problem and gave advice on how to prevent the problem in the future. We have a very old house with old pipes.
- Pat H.
A

Rating
Our bathroom faucet needed to be replaced and the technicians,
Gaylord Plumbers Provider Name Locked
, and his supervisor did a great job. Our trap assembly was crumbling from rust, so they took the time to replace that as well. They worked quickly and efficiently. Watch out for
Gaylord Plumbers Provider Name Locked
, he's quite the charmer! I appreciated the money-saving advice he gave me for other future plumbing issues that are can be done by a novice homeowner.
I would not hesitate to recommend this company to others.
Gaylord Plumbers Provider Name Locked

- Sylvia C.
A

Rating
I had the pleasure of working with
Gaylord Plumbers Provider Name Locked
when my tenant called regarding the broken hot water heater.
Gaylord Plumbers Provider Name Locked
came by ASAP to look at the problem and provided me with a response immediately.
The price he provided in his estimate was fair and his work was detailed and thorough.
Gaylord Plumbers Provider Name Locked
was also prompt in sending me the invoice and answered any questions that I may have.
The work was done immediately the next day with a new hot water heater.
I couldn't be happier as a customer and now have his number in my contacts for any future issues.
Thanks
Gaylord Plumbers Provider Name Locked
!
- Johnny L.
A

Rating
They did a great job troubleshooting my problem. I had a new expansion tank installed along with a new hot water tank over a year ago. But I noticed the relief valve on the hot water tank was purging now and then. I decided to have
Gaylord Plumbers Provider Name Locked
plumbing look at this problem. They found my pressure regulator at the inlet to my house was bad. Which destroyed the expansion tank. The previous plumber had no idea what he was doing. Great job
Gaylord Plumbers Provider Name Locked
. I will use you again.
- Robert W.
A

Rating
These plumbers were great. I called them Saturday morning and they showed up around 12pm. Once they saw the leak they started working right away. I was given an estimate for how much it would cost, roughly $700 to fix the sewer line. I thought that was a high price but the work needed to be done. Around 2-1/2 hours later they were finished and the work looked great. Also, they give me a first time customer discount to boot! I would totally use them again.
- Pranay P.
A

Rating
we've used DrainMasters in the past, and they have always been courteous, punctual and professional. This time they again arrived within the promised time frame, gave up front pricing on what they were going to do, and did the work as expected. Our plumber (
Gaylord Plumbers Provider Name Locked
) made sure that the pressure at all of our water outlets throughout the house (and we have a good number of them) was good before he left. He also carefully explained what items are covered under the various warranties/guarantees before leaving.
Everything is still running smoothly now - instead of our water coming into the house at about 120 PSI and then having significant pressure drops whenever two (or more) sources were run (due to the failed pressure regulator valve), we now have uniform pressure (roughly 65 PSI) throughout the house even with multiple draws at the same time.
Although they're a bit pricier than some (but not all) local plumbers, their professionalism and quality of service is well worth it!
- Stephen B.
F

Rating
l valves for both bathrooms. He did his best presentation to sell me a water heater, water softener and and all on/off valves for both bathrooms and kitchen. Even though I did mention some had been replaced recently but two (not 6) needed replacement.
I then called a local plumber who I had dealt with before. He came did a much more thorough inspection and said yes I needed two valves replaced. $150 not $450.
The problem with the water heater was the anode rod $35 not $899.
And if I wanted a water softener, then about $500-899 not $1700 but most problems would be solved by anode rod.
This is the first bad review I have given on Angie's and I hope the last.
- John M.
A

Rating
The provider explained that the company does not provide services in the city of
Gaylord Plumbers Provider Name Locked
. The person sounded honest and professional We did not discuss price once I was told that services are not available in my area.
- Tanya T.

Plumbers in Gaylord, MI

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Alan Holstein

301 W 53rd St

Bear Plumbing Inc.

7178 Pulaski Road
Concord

Beman Builders LLC

10494 E Easling Rd
Suttons Bay

BUTCHER EXCAVATING

4984 N GRAFTON RD.
Alma

C.T.Janni & Associates

5098 Knapp Drive
Flint

Cahaba Scapes

2130 11th avenue north

cpr painting llc

3643 Washington St
Fort Gratiot

D&W Mechanical

1266 Industry Dr St A
Traverse City

Dan Wood Co

3950 E Milham Ave
Portage

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

Doctor Flue, inc.

1610 Dinius Rd
Tecumseh

EVERDRY WATERPROOFING INC

5273 Division Ave S
Grand Rapids

FAMILY PLUMBING HTNG & COOLNG

519 West Second Street
Gaylord

Flood Professionals Inc

PO Box 125
Mayfield

Harms Enterprises

88 W. Houghton Lake Drive
Prudenville

J P HEATING OF NORTHERN MI

1830 DICKERSON RD
Gaylord

J R Plumbing

10062 W Higgins Lake Dr
Roscommon

JNJ Construction Inc

2860 Kassuba Rd
Gaylord

JP Heating Of Northern Michigan LLC

1830 Dickerson Rd
Gaylord

Kotz Heating & Air Conditioning

5405 Perry Dr
Waterford

Listvan Inc

1092 Anna Dr
Gaylord

Modernistic Carpet Cleaning

821 Wakefield
Plainwell

Moore Plumbing & Heating

9136 W Limits Rd
Mancelona

Mr Bean's Plumbing LLC

214 Jordan St
Adrian

Mr. Rooter of Traverse City

9414 North Musson Road
Six Lakes

Nerat's Plumbing & Heating Sales

2121 10th St
Menominee

North Pointe Plumbing & Heating Inc

1886 Dickerson Rd
Gaylord

northern appliance service

708 Erie st
Grayling

NORTHERN SPRINKLER SYSTEMS

2065 Tyler Hills Dr
Traverse City

NuFlush

5195 Marshall St

Owens Soft Water

8964 S. Clare Ave.
Clare

Patriot Builders

189 North Ridge Street
Port Sanilac

Paul Mcglynn

423 E Lincoln St
Boyne City

Plumbing Works

4284 Hearthside Dr
Traverse City

Pure Plumbing

4561 Modoc Rd
Indian River

Rooney's Sewer Service

719 Webb St
Jackson

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

7275 Tower Rd
Battle Creek

Wallside Windows Inc

27000 Trolley Industrial Dr
Taylor
Gaylord Zip Codes

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